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THE 

NORTHERN TRAVELLER; 

CONTAINING THE ROUTES TO 

THE SPRINGS, NIAGARA, QUEBEC, 

AND 

THE COAL MINES; 

WITH 

THE TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND, 



A BRIEF GUIDE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS, AND SOUTHERN AND 
WESTERN ROUTES. 



BY THEODORE PWIGHT, Jr. 



SIXTH EDITION. 
WITH EIGHTEEN MAPS, AND NINE LANDSCAPES. 

JOHN P. HAVEN, 
BOOKSELLER, PUBLISHER, AND STATIONER, 

199 Broadway. 

^0 If / 



f 



Eutei-ed according to Act of Cong^ress, in tlie year 1841, by 

John p. Haven, 
III the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New- York. 









PREFACE 



This Sixth Edition of the Northern Traveller is pub- 
lished when the previous editions have been for some time 
out of print ; so that it seemed to be urg-ently demanded. 
The work has undergone a most thorough revision, as the 
numerous and important changes in the country required. 
The traveller will find in it a larger amount of informa- 
tion than at any former period, as the matter has been 
much condensed, almost every page has received some ad- 
dition or abridgement, and large portions have been writ- 
ten anew. Perfect accuracy is hardly to be expected in a 
work comprising such a number and variety of details, 
many of which are of a changeable nature: but exertions 
have been made to render it accurate, as well as replete 
with information and suggestions best adapted to the 
convenience, gratification and improvement of the mass 
of intelligent travellers. 

Notices of places or objects appropriate to the sphere 
of this work, transmitted by persons in any part of the 
.'!ountry, will be attended to in future editions of the 



IV PREFACE. 

Northern Traveller ; as the author has resumed his orig-i-* 
nal intention, formed after travelling abroad, of furnishing 
a Guide Book for the principal routes in his own country^ 
keeping pace w^ith the progress of society and public inv» 
pi'Dvements. 



^in of r/fc J?on/c's 



iS^HYIStA^^lCAk 




GENERAL INDEX 



City of New York, . . . . . 


7 


Route up the Hudson, . . . . . 


13 


*' to Niagara, ...... 


32 


Routes to Ohio, &c. . . ... 6 


7,221 


Route from Albany to the Springs, 


31,74 


" to Lake George, . . . • 


88 


" to Canada, 


104 


Tour of New England, 


141 


Route up Connecticut River, 


145 


" from New York to Boston, 


166 


" " Boston to the White Mountains, 


186 


" " Boston to Maine, 


203 


Philadelphia, ...... 


223 


Route to the Pennsylyania Coal Mines, 


. 227 


Baltimore, . . . . . , 


220 


Washington, ....... 


215 


Route to the Virginia Springs. . . . . 


239 


Routes from New-Orleans to New-York, 


241 



VIEWS FROM NATURE. 

1. Prontispiece^ View of Niagara from l^elow 
Table Rock. 

2. Scenery on Mohawk River, faoing page 
t^'3. Ballston Springs . . . ,< 
'•'A. Saratoga Springs .... 

5. Lake George ^ . . . . 

6. Ruins of Ticonderoga from the east 
-7. The same from Mount Independence = 
-8. Southerly view from Mount Holyoke 



fAGl 



35 

82 

84 

90 

100 

104 

156 



The Notch House, White Mountains 195 

MAPS 

Of the Roads, Canals, Railroads, SfC. 

PAGE 

General Map of the Routes in the Northern States, 5 
•- No. 1. Hudson River, from the mouth to Croton 

River, . . 14 

^ No. 2. " " to Kmgston . . 16 

-No. 3. " '' to Albany . . 21 

<'No. 4. Mohawk River to Utica, with a Profile of 

the Erie Canal . 32 

"•'No. 5. '' " to Syracuse . . 32 

'No. 6. Thence to Cayuga Lake . . .44 

-No. 7. Thence to Canandaigua . . .45 

-No. 8. Thence to Rochester and Batavia . . 46 

^No. 9. Thence to Niagara . . . .48 

-No. 10. Buffalo and its vicinity, with a Profile of 

the Welland Canal . . .62 

'No 11. To Glenn's Falls, with Saratoga Springs 

and Battle Ground, Schenectady and Pro* 

file of the Champlain Canal . . 30 

•No. 12. Lake George . . . .88 

•-No. 13. Do. Northern part and Lake Champlain . 98 

-No. 14. Lake Champlain, northern part . - 108 

■No. 15. St. John's, Montreal, &c. . . .110 

No. 16. Montreal Island . . . .118 

■Connecticut River, lower part . . .145 



THE 

NORTHERN TRAVELLED. 



THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

Remarks to the Traveller at New-Yorh. 

It is recommended to suck travellers as have not formed 
a plan for their journeys, to turn to the general map of 
the routes, page 1. He may go to Boston by the Provi- 
dence steamboats and railroad, or by the Stoningtorl 
steamboats and railroad through Providence, or by the 
Norwich steamboat and railroad through Worcester, or by 
the New-Haven steamboat, the railroad to Hartford, 
and stagecoach to Worcester, or steamboat or stagecoach tot 
Springfield railroad. Those who wish to see Connecti- 
cut river may take a steamboat to Hartford. For Al- 
bany, take a steamboat. Before 1842, a railroad is ex- 
pected to be in use from Bridgeport, Con. to Albany, 
when that route may be preferred by some. A steam- 
boat goes t<i Bridgeport. 

For Philadelphia, take the railroad line from Jersey 
city by crossing the Hudson from Barclay-street. 

Other rail-roads are to be made : one from South Brooks^ 
iyn to Greenport, east end of Long Island, to cross to the 
Boston railroads. The Harlem railroad is to be ex- 
tended to Albany, 140 miles. 

The proposed route of a railroad from New- York tb 
Albany, (147 3-4 miles,) runs through Westchester coun- 
ty, Putnam, Dutchess and Columbia counties to Green- 
bush opposite Albany, and on to Troy. It passes along 
the valleys of the Bronx, Croton, Ten m. r. Ancram, 
Cline, and a branch of Kinderhook. It is nearly straight^ 

9 



B THE CITY OF KEW-TORK. 

except where it approaches Hudson, and is from 15" to> 
25 miles east of the river. This route avoids the High- 
lands, except at a point where they are only 769 feet- 
above tide : that is, 50 miles northeast of West Point, 
Maximum graile 30 feet, and locomotives can pass at 12' 
miles- an hour. 

The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of 
New-York and other cities as he visits them. 

The principal objects worthy of attention will be here 
mentioned in order, as they present themselves to a per- 
son proceeding north from the southern point of the city. 

The Battery, perhaps the finest public walk in the 
Union, is the favourite retreat in warm weather. It is ex- 
posed to the sea breeze, and aifords an agreeable shade, 
and a view of the inner harbour, with part of Long Island, 
on the left. Governor's Island with its fort and castle, 
the Narrows, and Staten Island below, Bedlow's and' Gib- 
bet Islands, and New-Jersey beyond them, with Jersey 
City and Hoboken village. Castle Garden is a place of 
refreshment, formed of a fort, where music and 'fireworks 
are often provided in warm evenings. A fort was built 
on the Battery in 1623, which included all the Bouses. 
It was afterwards enlarged. 

Southeast of the Battery is Whitehall Slip, where are 
the steam-boat ferries for Staten Island (12 cents,) and 
South Brooklyn, (4 cents.) Washington and Greenwich- 
streets begin at northwest corner, extending about two 
miles north. There are the steamboats of the Philadelphia, 
railroad line, and those for Providence. 

Broadway begins at the Bowling Green, an oval piece 
of ground, 140 feet by 220. Here are the Atlantic and. 
Adelphi Hotels, and many hotels and fashionable board- 
ing houses above. Grace Church, on the left, stands on, 
the corner of Rector-street, which leads to the Havre 
packets. Trinity Church is rebuilding. Wall-street is 
opposite, and has most of the banks and brokers' offices. 
The new TJ. S. Custom-house, corner of Nassau-street, is. 
of white marble, 89 feet by 177, on the model of the Par- 
thenon of Athens, with two fagades with Doric columns, 
32 feet high, a central hall, and a dome 62 feet in diame- 
ter. It will cost half a million. 

The New-York Exchange, entirely of Quincy Sie-- 



THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. ^ 

^Ite, three stories high, and a basement, covers a block, 
between four streets, and is 197 feet 7 inches on Wail- 
street, 144 on one side, and 170 on the other, with a 
large dome abo\e, 100 feet high. This covers the circu- 
lar exchange room, 95 feet high, and 80 in diameter. In 
front is a row of 12 Ionic columns, with 6 more at the 
door. The shafts are single stores, 32 feet 8 inches long, 
and from 4 feet to 4 feet 4 inches in diameter at the base, 
those on the wings weighing about 33 tons, and the 
others 35. Each cost about $5,000. The building, which 
is nearly complete, contains Mr. Gilpin's News Room 
and Packet Office, several insurance and other offices. 
The Telegraph is to be kept on the top to communicate 
■with that on Staten Island. The great fire, in 1835, des- 
troyed the former Exchange, but did not cross Wall- 
street. It swept down to Old Slip. 

Proceeding up Broadway, you pass Cedar and Court- 
landt-streets, which lead on the left to some of the 
Albany steam-boats, and the ferry to Jersey City, 6 cents. 
(Thence the railroads lead to Newark, 25 cents, Eli- 
zabethtown, Rahway and New-Brunswick to Philadel- 
phia ; also to Paterson. Fulton-street leads (right) to 
Fulton Market, Brooklyn Ferry, (3 cents,) the Connecti- 
cut and Flushing steamboats, some of the Liverpool pac- 
kets, &c. 

At the corner of Vesey-street is St. Paul's Church, 
with an epitaph in front to Gen. Montgomery, whose re- 
mains were brought there from Quebec in 1818. Oppo- 
site is the American Museum with four stories filled with 
stuffed animals, &c. Ann-street leads to the rooms of 
the Reformed Dutch Church Missionai'y Society, Episco- 
pal Sabbath School Society ; American Bible Society ; De- 
pository and Printing Office; Clinton Hall, where are the 
Mercantile Library, (20,000 vols.) reading and lecture 
room, and exhibition room of the National Academy of 
Design ; American Tract Society ; American Sunday School 
Union Depository ; and American Board of Foreign Mis 
sions. 

In Chatham Row are the Park Theatre and the Brick 
Church, The Park, (10 3-4 acres,) contains the City 
Hall, (216 feet by 105,) of white marble, and rear offree- 
•fitone, cost $538,734, with rooms for courts, caminoa 



10* THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

council, mayor, governor, &c. and several portraits, an(2 
Mechanics' Institute in the basement. The alarm-bell is 
liung above, and the cupola commands a general view oF 
the city. The New City Hall contains the American 
Institute of Manufactures, which holds a splendid fair and 
exhibition at Niblo's in September. 

In Chambers-street are the Savings Bank, the Arcade 
Baths, and the Reservoir of the Manhattan Company;^ 
which supplies some of the streets with water. 

Returning down Broadway to Park Place, we find Co- 
lumbia College, founded in 1750 as King's College, — » 
President Duer. Behind it is the Grammar School, 
Professor Anthon. Above the Park, Duane-street Iead& 
on the right to the Halls of Justice, the City Prison, 
built of Sienite in the Egyptian style. Gothic Hall i* 
near Pearl-street, opposite which is the City Hospital, 
founded in 1769. The Society Library, corner of Leon-?^ 
ard-street, 1754. Franklin-street leads on the left to the 
Opera House and French Church, originally in Pine-, 
street, 1704. 

(Hudson Park is some distance northwest from this- 
spot, 4 acres, with St. John's Church, 240 feet.) 

In White-street, (right from Broadway,) is the City 
Dispensary, 1790, with the Eye and Ear Infirmaries^ 
1820. Canal-street has a sewer underground, and on the 
light from Broadway are the Gas Light Company's works,, 
pipes, 26 miles long, and a Jews' Synagogue. There are 
10 or 11 other Synagogues, most of them recently formed 
by emigrants from Bavaria, &c. The Manhattan Gas 
Works are at the foot of Eighteenth-street. 

Above are the Circus and Tattersalls' ; above Spring' 
street Niblo's Garden. Opposite, the New-York Lyceum 
of Natural History with a line collection. The Stuyve* 
sandt Institute is several streets above, with the Library 
of the Historical Society. In Crosby-street behind Nib- 
lo's, are the Apprentices' Library, 1820, with 20,000; vol-» 
umes, the School of the Mechanics' Society, a Synagogue^,, 
and the College of Physicians and Surgeons. 

Fourth-street leads to Washington Square, 9 3-4 acres. 

The New York University fronts it, 1831, Chancellor*' 
Frelinghuysen. It has a large grammar sehoqd. Th© 



THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 11 

^'tesbyterian Theolo^cal Seminary is above, and has the 
library of Leander Van Ess. 

The'Marble Cemetery is in Great Jones-street, east of 
Broadway. The City Reservoir is in Thirteenth-sfeet. 
Water is raised by a steam engine from a well il2 feet 
deep^ and conveyed to the south in pipes, to extinguish 
fires without the use of fire engines. The Croton Aque- 
duct, 45 miles long, to supply drinkable water to the 
whole city, is partly made, and will cost 45 millions. 

The Retreat for Juvenile Delinquents is at the end of 
Broadway; the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 1817, Fiftieth- 
street, near the Harlem railroad, Mr. Peet principal. 
The Blind Asyhim, 1831, Sixth Avenue near Thirty-se- 
cond street, Mr. Jones. The Genei'al Episcopal Theolo- 
gical Seminary, 1819, Ninth Avenue and Twenty-first 
sti-eet. The Lunatic Hospital is six miles north. The 
Almshouse is on the East river, and beyond is Blackweil's 
Island, with the Penitentiary and Lunatic Asylum, and 
the Poor House Farm opposite, with the School. The 
Orphan Asylum, Half Orphan Asylum, Institution for 
Aged Indigent Females, and 17 Public Schools. 

Hudson river was discovered in 1609, by Henry Hud- 
son. First settlement by the Dutch, near Albany, 1610, 
to trade with the Indians in furs. (This trade yielded 
above $50,000 in 1632.) First fort in New-York in 
1612, near the corner of Broadway and Garden-street. 
In 1623, a large fort on the Battery, enclosing the village, 
the island having been purchased. Captured by the En- 
glish in 1664, retaken 1673, restored 1674. First post- 
rider to Boston, 1673, going once in three weeks. First 
stagecoach to Boston, 1723, once a month. 1765 a Con- 
gress of delegates met. January 1776, the American 
army began to assemble for the defence of the city. 
August 26th, the Battle of Long Island, after M-hich the 
British army occupied the city till end of the war. Sep- 
tember 21st, 492 houses burnt. Evacuated by the Bri- 
tish army and entered by Washington, November 25th, 
1783. All the churches except one had been burnt or 
occupied by soldiers. 

1785 Congress met in the old City Hall, where the 
Slew Custom House is. 1789 Washington inaugurated 
President there. Free School Society incorporated 1805. 



22 fliE CITY or NEW-fORKx 

iThe Great Fire December 16, 1835, loss about eigliteeW 
iTiillions. The latitude of the City Hall is 4()0 42' 40"' 
N. Longitude 74-^ 1' 8" W. from Greenwich. 

Excursions. Numerous pleasant excursions may be 
made from New-York in various directions. Di/Jamhattaii 
Island affords several agjfeeable rid^js j and also Long Isl-*' 
and and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey» 

Brooklyn, on Long Island, opposite New-York, is the 
second city for size in the state, containing about 40,00(?- 
inhabitants. It enjoys a fine situation, good air, pure wa-' 
ter, retirement, and shsdy streets. The stranger should 
tisit it. Carriages will take him from the ferries to any 
part. The view of NewYork from Columbia-street, on 
the heights, is the finest to be found. 

The Lyceum, Washington-street^ contains a fine lecture' 
room, the collection of the Natural History Society, City 
Library, and Savings Bank. The Navy Yard, one mile" 
northeast from it, is worthy of a visit. There is the Na-' 
val Lyceum, with a fine collection of natural history, &c.. 

Greenwood Cemetery, two miles south of Brooklyn, iS' 
shady and picturesque, with sylvan lake, and a fine view: 
from Mount Washington. You pass Gowannis Cave, the 
scene of most bloodshed in the battle of Long Island iu'' 
1776. 

The Jamaica railroad begins at t^e South ferry. Fortj 
Hamilton is four miles souib of Brooklyn. Fort Lafayette' 
is on a small island below it. Opposite is Staten Islandy 
commanding fine views. 

Prince's Linn^an Garden atFlusbing. The excur-* 
sion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very pleasant. 
The steamboat leaves Fulton-street slip at four o'clock 
in the afternoon every day, and affords a view of the 
most interesting parts of the East river, including the" 
famous rapids at Hell Gate. The vilhige is small, bu8 
pleasant. The garden of Mr. Prince will supply strangers' 
of taste and science with rare Seeds, plants, flowers and 
trees, and has already done much to introduce useful and 
beautiful varieties into this country. It was first esta- 
blished about the middle of the last century. 

The four hothouses contain about 20,000 plants in pots^ 
and the garden covers about thirty acres. The species 
and varieties of trees and j-lants amount to about SOOOy 



fHE HUDSON HlfEP.. id 

"Wiiicii is considered the most numerous collection in Anie* 
rica. Tlie proprietor exerts himself to obtain all the na- 
tive productionsj as well as all interesting exotics, and foi" 
specimens forwarded to him he offers to make satisfactory 
returns from his own collection. Thompson's History of 
Long Island, and the Picture of New-York will be inte- 
restuag to traA'ellers of taste. 

Bath, Rockaway, and Grayesend, on Long Island; 
and Long Branch, in New-Jersey, fine situations on the 
seacoast, are among the most attractive for bathing, ifec. 

Orange Springs, near Newark, and Scholey's 
Mountain, are resorts during the wai-m seasons, particu- 
larly for visiters from New-York- The situations are very 
pleasant, in variegated tracts of country, and afford a most 
agreeable retreat, with fine air and good accommodations » 

PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER, 

On leaving New-York, the traveller finds himself in 
the rriidst of a fine and varied scene. The battery lieS 
behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams 
projecting beyond; still more distant opens the passage 
called the Nai'rows, with Staten Island on the right, lead- 
ing to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 
miles from the city. On the west side of the bay are 
Bedlow and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the point 
at the mouth of the Hudson is Powles' Hook, on which 
stands a neat town in New-Jersey called Jersey City , 
and the village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the 
river. The hills of Wehav.'ken appear beyond: as the 
boat moves r'apidly on, it passes the crowded line of build- 
ings in Washington-street, the Episcopal Seminary, and^ 
at a greater distance, the Blind Institution. 

At Wehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing the river;) 
and about the distance of three miles from the city, is the 
spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with 
Colonel Burr. This was the common duelling ground for 
combatants from this city, and many lives were afterwards 
lost on the fatal spot. 

The Palisadges — a remarkable range of precipices 
of trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up the 
river on the west side twenty miles^ to Tappan, and form 



Ti l^ORT WASHINGTOiSf. 

'a singular, and in many places an impassable bduaddfyj 
In some places an old red sandstone foundation is seert 
below : but the great mass of the rocks presents the mu- 
1-al precipices of the trap formation, and rises froiri thte 
■height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. On the opposite side is 
Yorkville, and the route of the Unfinished Croton Aqueduct. 

The LuNATtc Asylum, about seven miles from the city, 
-is a large building of heWn stone, occupying a command- 
ing situation. 

Harlem Heights ate a short distance further. They 
form an elevated ridge across Manhattan Island, on which 
a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolu- 
tion and the late war, quite over to the East river. 

Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated on 
the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet above the 
river. A village of the same name is near. 

Fori Washington v/as a fortress on the top of a high 
rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from 
New-York. In October, 1776) when Gen. Washington 
had evacuated the city, and, subsequently to the battls 
of White Plains, (for which see just beyond,) had drawn 
off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept gar- 
risoned, contrary to his advice, and was attacked in four 
divisions. The Hessians and Waldeckers, under Gen. 
Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north side; Gen. 
Matthews on the east, with the English light infantry and 
guards, intended against the intrenchments, which reach- 
ed almost to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint of 
crossing that river lower down, while Lord Percy with a 
%''ery strong corps was to operate against the western flank. 

The Hessians suffered much from the I'ifletnen in pass* 
ing a swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions, ih 
driving the Americans into this fort, where they all sur- 
rendered, to the number of 2600 men, including militia. 
They had lost very few ; but the British lost about 800. 

Fort Lee was immediately evacuated; but the British 
crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took thfe 
artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the Ameri- 
can army. 

Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, soon 
after the American troops had evacuated New-York, whilfe 
General Washington had his army assembled at Kingfl* 




■.\\}l.-..7.^, K,..,'-Ni: 



NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 15 

bi'idge, and the British were in possession of the island up 
as far as Harlem, General Howe went up the East river^ 
with an intention of surrounding the Americans. He left 
his German corps at New-Rochelle, and marched for the 
high ground at White Plains, several miles east of the 
Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and 
Connecticut. 

Washington penetrated his design, and entrenched him- 
self on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his 
right on Valentine's hill,, and his left on White Plains. 
He had garrisons near Harlem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort 
Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British 
approached very near ; when Washington assembled all 
his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, 
with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a 
jnountainous region in the rear. l"he right was more ac- 
cessible ; and General M'Dougal was sent to entrench 
himself on a mountain about a mile in front. 

On the morning of October 28th, the Biitjsh advanced 
in two columns: the right led by Clinton, and the left by 
Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaroneck 
road, and the latter on the Bronx,— ~the armies being a mile 
distant. Col. Ralle, with a Hessian regiment,, fell upon 
Gen. M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front 
with a brigade. The militia soon fled, but the regular 
troops resisted until overpowered. Washington, therefore, 
retired to North Castle ; and soon after, securing the bridge 
over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the Hudson. 

Fort Independence, on the east side. Opposite, the 
Palisadoes are of still greater height. 

Dobb's Ferry, 10 miles farther Tappan Bay is from 
three to five miles wide, eight or nine in length. Haver- 
straw Bay, still larger, lies just above. 

Tappan, 25 miles from New-York. Here Major An- 
(dre was executed, after a short imprisonment. Here 
will begin the NewrYork and Erie Railroad, which is to 
extend through Goshen, Deposit, Binghampton, Owego, 
Elmira, Corning, Hornellsville, and Olean, to Dunkirk 
on Lake Erie, 457 miles. It is thought that the whole 
distance from New Y''ork to Dunkirk, by a branch from 
the Harlem railroad, will be only 475 miles, and that it 
will cost but $6,000,000, Two branches are in operatioc. 



16 STATE PRISON A.T SINGSING. 

xnz. the Ithaca and Owego railroad, 29 miles ; and thd 
Corning and Blossburg, Pennsylvania, railroad, 40 miles. 

Tarrytovvn, three and one half miles. This is the 
place where Major Andre was stopped, returning from 
his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British 
lines. The place was then neutral ground, as the Ameri- 
cans and English lay encamped above and below. The 
tree was recently standing under which his captors search- 
ed him, and the bank near by concealed them from hia 
view as he approached them. 

The State Prison at Singsing is in a quadrangle of 
nearly 44 by 480ft. on the eastern shore, 33 miles from 
New- York. It has a double stack of cells built back to 
back, four tiers high and 200 on each tier: in all 800. 
Nine feet distance is the outer wall, which supports a 
gallery running all around ; size of the cells, three feet six 
inches by seven feet, and two feet door way. The whole 
work was done by convicts, and a great part is of hewn 
stone. The system is that of the Auburn prison. 

The convicts are employed in quarrying marble from 
the hill, and in other kinds of labour. 

The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short distance 
beyond this place, and 40 miles from New York This 
is a -region no less remarkable for the important military 
events of which it has been the theatre, than for the 
grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. 

Stony Point The little rough promontory on the 
left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, 
was a fortified position during the American war. The 
British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again 
the same year. 

Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the 
site of a fort. 

FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON, 
five miles further, on the west. 

These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 
sixth of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate 
with Gen Burgoyne. at that time closely watched by Gen. 
Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an opportunity to 
iforce his way to Hudson river, by effecting a diversion in 
his favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had left New- 



JSTcrtlt. . 




NEW-YORK TO ALBANr. 17 

York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet, and 
landed at Verplanck's Point. The next morning a detach- 
ment was sent to Stony Point, and marched round in 
the rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. 
Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part 
of whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of 
militia. 

Gen. Putnam, apprised of the landing made at Ver- 
planck's Point, and' supposing the object of the expedition 
to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river, and made 
preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their 
real intentions until he had heard the firing at forts Mont- 
gomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and were 
attacked at the same moment. The fighting began be- 
tween four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted 
till dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 men, 
the forts were surrendered ; but all the garrison who were 
able, about 450, effected' their escape, with the governor 
and his brother, len. James Clinton. The British pro- 
ceeded to West Point, removed the chain which had been 
stretched across the river to prevent the passage of their 
ships; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wallace, 
went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and his troops. 
Although they found the village defenceless, the officers 
ordered it to be burnt, on the 13th of October. The Bri- 
tish proceeded no further than that place ; for the news 
of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days after- 
wards, the fleet returned to New York. 

Anthony's Nose. This mountain (which has a pro- 
file resembling the human face,) rises 1228 feet from the 
river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery Creek, 
looking down upon foists Montgomery and Clinton. Be- 
hind the latf^r is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those 
were thrown who were killed in the defence. 

As the steamboat proceeds up the river, West Point 
makes its appearance on the left hand, with the ruins of 
Fort Putnam elevated on a commanding eminence, a little 
beyond, 598 feet above the water level. Thi" view it com- 
mand's over this wild and mountainous neighbourhood, as 
well as its connexion with our history, will render it wor- 
thy of a Ndsit. There are still three or four subterraneous 
xooms to be seen, and the place is so often visited, that 



IS NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

ihe path is plain, and leads to most of the principal objects 
within it. This fortress commanded at once the river 
above and below West Point, and the passage into a defile 
■which opens through the mountains westward. That de- 
file was farther defended by numerous little batteries and 
redoubts on the peaks around it. 

Kosciusko's Retreat is near this place, and the spot 
is still shown where he cultivated his little garden. A 
monument erected to him, will be seen on the rocks. 

West Point. This was a military position of great 
consequence in the Revolutionary war. A battery was 
erected on the extremity of the point, just over the river, 
to command the channel, while a strong iron chain was 
stretched across from the shore below, to the opposite 
side. On the east side of the river is Cold Spring, 
behind it is the West Point Foundry. There is a fine 
hotel on the point. 

The Military Academy of the United States 
is at West Point; and a more delightful situation for 
such an institution could hardly have been selected. It is 
designed for the instruction of young men destined for the 
army; and secondarily for maintaining the military science 
of the country. The Academy was established in 1802, 
by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruction of 
Cadets. The number of pupils is confined to 250 ; and in 
choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolutionary 
officers are allowed the first claim, and those children of 
officers of the last war whose fathers are dead, the next- 
The law prohibits admission under 14 years of age* 

The level on which the buildings of this institution are 
erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap* 
pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The libra- 
ry consists of a large and valuable collection of books, on 
the various branches of military science, which have been 
obtained with great assiduity and no small expense from 
Europe. 

The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all 
large, and built of stone. There are, besides, brick build- 
ings for the officers and professors ; near the water, some 
old military store houses, ivhich contain arms, &c. used 
in the revolution. 

The course of study is completed in four yoars, each; 



WEST POINT. 19 

being devoted to a class ; and includes the French lan- 
:guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, 
chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and 
national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and 
lastly, artillery and engineering. 

Study concludes each day at four P. M. and is suc- 
ceeded by the parade, which lasts till sunset. 

Arnold's Treachery, In September, 1780, while 
the British held possession of Hudson river up to the bor- 
ders of the Highlands, and Gen. Arnold was in command 
here, a correspondence was carried on by him with the 
British officers, on the subject of surrendering his post 
into their hands. To bring their designs to a conclusion, 
it was determined that a meeting should be h^ld. 

Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop 
of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay, 
to a place which had been appointed for the conference. 
A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by 
Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about an ho- 
nourable treaty with Great Britain ; and he accompanied 
Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long Clove, 
on the west side of the river. Here they found Gen. Ar- 
nold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to ap- 
pointment. 

Daylight put it out of the power of Major Andre to 
pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Stony Points. 
He vfas therefore obliged to retire to Smith's house, 
and change his dress for a disguise. 

Arrest of Major Andre. General Arnold had fur- 
nished him with a pass under the name of John Anderson ;. 
and on the following evening he set out by land, accom- 
panied by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to 
McKoy'^s after going eight or nine miles ; and the next he' 
spent at Pine's Bridge, over Croton river. Here he 
parted with Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, when,- 
as he had passed the American lines, and was approaching 
those of the British, he was discovered by three men, who 
were concealed from him behind a bank ; and one of them, 
suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road side,, 
seized his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a 
description of the works at West Point, with returns q§' 



20 NEW-YORK TO ALBANr. 

all the forces of the garrison, in the hand-writing of 
Arnold. 

This happened on the 23d of September. A messenger 
was imm^ediately sent to General Washington ; and, at 
Andre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold 
to inform him that Anderson was taken. The lat- 
ter messenger arrived first ; and Arnold, as soon as he 
learned the truth, rushed down a very steep bank, sprang 
into his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board 
the Vulture. 

His Execution. On the 29th of September a board of 
officers was appointed for the trial of Major Andre, and 
sentenced him to suffer death as a spy. Objections were 
made to this sentence, on the ground that Andre had been 
introduced into the American camp under the passport of 
one of our officers ; but the delivery of Arnold being made 
the condition of his release, and that being refused by 
the British, he was kept in pi'ison until the 2d of October, 
when he was hung at the townof Tappan, where his body 
was afterwai'ds interred. 

A few years since the British government sent to this 
country to obtain his remains, which were removed to 
England, and placed in the family vault of the then Prince 
Regent. In 1827, the corporation of New-York erected 
a monument over the grave of Paulding, one of his captors. 

At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe several- 
remarkably high mountains on both sides of the river, for 
which he is referred to the map. Putnam's Rock was- 
roUed from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a party 
of soldiers directed by Gen,. Putnam. 

Newburgh. This is a town of considerable size, six 
miles beyond the Highlands, with some handsome build-- 
ings. 

Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of one 
approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill which 
slopes handsomely to the shore. Half a mile south of 
the village is seen the old stone house in which Gen. 
Washington had his head quarters when the celebrated' 
" Newburgh Letters " were published. 

Matte AWAN Factory, Fishkill. It stands near tb,&i 
river, and directly opposite JNewburgh. 



% ti 




11 IT 1' C li I'- ^ S CO. 



o s«/t>n.^ £ \ ,^1 , i „ ^, ,, ^, ^. ,- 



CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 21 

PoUGHKEEPSiE is a place of considerable importance, 
und k situated two miles east of the river. 

Kingston. Here begins the Delaware and Hudson 
canal, opened in 1827. 

Saugerties. Here is a large manufacturing place es- 
tablished by Henry Barcklay, Esq. of New York. By a 
large stone dam on Esopus creek is obtained a supply of 
water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice used 
on great wheels. 

The Catskill Mountains. As the traveller proceeds, 
he observes the distant ridge of the Catskill mountains. 
They no-where approach nearer to the river than eight 
miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. 

An excursion to the summit of these mountains may 
very properly be ranged among the principal objects in 
the great tour which we are just commencing. The visit 
may be accomplished in one day, though two or three 
may be agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand 
and beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood. 
There is a large and commodious house of entertainment 
erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the peaks of the moun- 
tain, about 3,000 feet above the river. It is visible from 
the steamboat, and the ascent to it is performed without 
fatigue, in private carriages or a stagecoach. 

The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where 
begins a turnpike road to Ithaca. Taking the stage- 
coach here, you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, pass- 
ing an inn at the distance of seven miles, and then begin- 
ning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road, 
that affords much wald scenery, and many a glimpse at 
the surrounding country.* Five miles of such travelling 
brings th ; visiter to 

The Pine Orchard. This is a small plain, 3,000 feet 
above the river, scattered with forest trees, and furnished 
with an elegant house of great size, built for the accom- 
modation of visiters. The Hudson is seen winding from 
afar through its verdant valley, its margin adorned with 
villages, and its surface enlivened with vessels of various 
descriptions. Immediately below is seen a region of un- 

* The forests of this mountainous resion furnish immense 
quantities of the bark used iu tanning leather; and many Iftu- 
Beries are in operati-ou iutliis county. 



22 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

cultivated mountains, which is strikingly contrasted with 
the charming aspect of fertility that reigns beyond, and 
presents all the variety of hill and vale, town, hamlet and 
cottage. 

The Round Top is a summit of greater elevation to- 
wards the south, from which the view is more extensive. 
It is 3,718 feet above the ocean. 

On the west side of the I'iver is seen part of the counties 
of Albany, Greene, Ulster and Orange; and on the east, 
part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Columbia 
and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the east be- 
longs partly to TaughU annuo and Saddle Mountains in 
Massachusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Moun- 
tains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a range of 
hills in the western counties of Connecticut. The eye 
embraces a tract of country about 100 miles in length, 
and 50 in breadth ; and a large part of it is supposed, by 
geologists, to have formed the bed of a great lake in some 
long past age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the 
barrier presented at the Highlands, before the present 
chasm had been cut for its passage. 

Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Manor, 
which is one of the few great aristocratical estates exist- 
ing in this part of the country. It originally contamed 
Clermont, (14,000 acres,) the Manor (146,000) and East 
Camp or Palatine, (6,000.) This last was settled by 
■exiles from the Palatinate in the reign of Queen Anne. 

The Cascades. West from the Mountain House a 
path leads through the woods to the cascades, passing 
near two small lakes, from which the supply of water is 
■derived. 

The stream flows through the woods to where the level 
terminates, very abruptly, at a high and shelving preci- 
pice, descending into a tremendous gorge between ridges 
of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, and the 
second 80 : both perpendicular, without a single protrud- 
ing rock to break the snow-white sheet. 

A building is erected where refreshments may be ob- 
tained ; and on the right is a steep path by which even 
ladies may descend in safety to the foot of the falls. 

There is a cavern under the first cataract, where the 
.Sihelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and 



CiTY OF A'LBAKY. • ^9 

l*ntO«rs a dark shade around him, which sets oif, in the 
itiost beautiful manner, the wild scenery below. The 
cavern is formed by the wearing away of the sandstone 
tocks, while the" stratum of grawacke remains unim'^' 
paired. 

At a little distance the stream takes its second leap 
iiito a dark abyss : and from a fock at that place, it is 
seen rushin* tumultuously along over a steep and rocky 
channel, winding between the bases of the mountains 
until it graduall} svi' eeps away towafd the south, and dis-" 
appears among the rude scenery that surrounds it. 

After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes 
Tike these, the ti'aveller will return to Cats kill to take 
the next steamboat; and by making the necessai'y ar^ 
I'ang'ements, he can proceed up the river with very little 
delay. 

The CitY op Hudson, 5| miles above Catskill. This 
is one of the lai'gest and most important towns on the 
river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the east- 
ern bank, with several ranges of large stores built neaf 
the water's level. On the brow of the ascent from 
the water is a favourite promenade, from which a 
charming view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite 
Catskill mountains. The western shore is variegated 
and beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. 

The railfoad leads from Hudson to West Stockbridgej 
Mass. 

The Union road to New-Lebanon is a good one, and 
passes through a varied, well cultivated and agreeable 
tract of country. 

There are extensive manufactories in this vicinity. 

Claverack is a pleasant village a few miles from Hud-* 
son. 

The Great Falls is a romantic cascade about nine miles 
from Hudson, near the old post route. 

ALBANY, 145 miles from New-York. 

Routes from Albany. Stagecoaches run daily 
towards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight fre- 
quently set off in the same direction. Indeed the num- 
ber is often much greater than this when the full crowd 

3* 



t4 Lebanon spiungs. 

of travellers is pressing towards this city. By steady 
travelling, you may go to Buftulo in three days, 296 
miles. Two or thi^ee steamboats go daily to New-York; 
and boats go on the canal. The circuit and delays occa* 
sioned by the locks, make the passage to Schenectady 
consume a whole day The freight boats of the Trans- 
portation Companies are very numerous, and have been 
fitted up very comfortably for passengers, and convey 
them at a less price than the regular packets. For the 
route to JNiagara, see page 33. For other routes, &.c. 
see index. 

The Capitol, or State House, occupies a commanding 
position at the head of State-street, and contains the 
Assembly and Senate Chambers, the Supreme Court, the 
County Court, &c. &c. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in 
breadth, and 50 high. On the opposite side of the river 
is Greenbush, famous for more than a century as a canton- 
ment ; and the deserted lines of eutrenchment are clearly 
seen from the State House. This is the firstpoint worthy 
of notice, connected with the colonial wars against Can- 
ada. At Greenbush, the troops supplied in quotas by the 
eastern colonies, used to meet those of New Yoik; and 
hence they proceeded, under commanders appointed by 
the British government, against their enemies in the 
north. 

The Academy and Female Institute are large in- 
stitutions for the higher branches of education. 

LEBANON SPRINGS, 26 miles east from Albany. 

New-Lebanon Springs is one of the most delightful 
resoits for strangers, in point of situation, being in this 
^respect incomparably superior to either of the great 
watering places, Saratoga and Ballston. Among all the 
places which might have been selected for an agreeable 
residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to please 
a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none perhaps 
could have been found more eligible than that we are 
about to describe. 

The village of New-Lebanon is situated in a little 
valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from 
two ranges of high ground^ descending; with a rich and 



LEBANON SPRINGS. 25 

;^raceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley is 
almost a perfect level, which contrasts agreeably with the 
liold sides of the iiplands, some of which are divested 
•of their forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields and 
farms, preseiating a rich variety to the eye wherever it 
turns. 

On the side of a hill about two miles east from the 
village, and about half way to the summit of the ridge, 
issues out a Spfing of clear warm water, which, although 
possessed of no strong mineral qualities, has given the 
place its celebrity | and there stands a fine and spacious 
hotel, to which the visiter will direct his course. 

In coming from the west, the Shaker Village opens 
just beyond the last turnpike gate ; and on approaching 
the hotel, it is better to take the road which turns off to 
the right, as the direct road up the hill is very steep and 
laborious 

A little arbour will be observed on the acclivity of the 
hill above the house, the path to which lies through the 
garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoyed 
over the surrounding landscape. A still more exten- 
sive one may be obtained from the summit of the hill, 
by following the road for a considerable distance up, and 
then turning off into the fields. But the former point 
of view will be most frequently taken by visiters, on 
account of the facility of access. On the southeast is 
the road to Northampton; southwest, the most exten- 
sive scene, and the road to the Shaker Village ; west, 
village of NewLebanon, and road to Albany and Troy 5 
nortlnvest, the side of a fine sloping hill, well cultivated, 
and near at hand. 

Distances. — To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. To Hart- 
ford, 69, Hudson, 28. 

The waters of the Spring are abundant, and much 
esteemed for bathing, always keeping the temperature 
of 72'-' Fahrenheit, although they cannot be supposed to 
possess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred from an 
examination of the following analysis given by Dr. Meade, 
and quoted by Professor Siiliman: Two quarts of the 
Lebanon water contain 



LSJJAI^ON gPltlfiGgi 



Muriate of lime, 1 grain. 
Muriate of soda, J^ 
Sulphate of lime, 1^ 
Carbonate of do. I 



Of Aeriform Pluids4 

Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic itis 
Atlriospheric air, 8 do. 



5 grains. 21 

The Lebanon water is therefore puter than most natu" 
ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, which 
flow frorii the same hill. It resembles very much the 
Buxtdrt water in England, though it is not quite sa 
Warm I and. the Bristol water is another* example of tepid 
Vvater almost entirely without mineral qualities. Pro" 
fessor Silliman compares the scenery about Lebanon 
Springs to that of Bath in England. 

The Ijouse at the Springs is v6ry large, cominadiotl^ 
And elegant ; and has stccommodated 300 persons at one 
time. It stands close by the spring, and is furnished 
■with baths supplied with the water. The old house mea- 
sures 90 feet, and the new One 120 feet long. They stand 
in the forrtl of an L, with a fine piazza itms along them 
both, measuring 220 feet. 

From New-Lebanon Springs to Troy, there is a very 
good road, through a variegated country. Distances ag 
follows: to Nassau, 16 miles ; thence to TrOy, 11. 

From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a Stage* 
Coach goes thither. The following is a table of distances 
on the I'oad to Boston : 

Pittsfield 7 miles, Biusdale 9, Peru 4, Worthington 6, 
Chesterfield 6, Northampton 13, Hadley 3, Amherst 
4, Belchertown 7, Ware 6, Western 8, Brookfield 6, 
Spencer 7, Leicester 11, Worcester 6, Framingham 10, 
Boston 21 — 134. 

The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs^ 
is an an object of attention to most visiters. The village 
itself presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as 
it is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the 
utmost regularity The fields are divided by right lines, 
fenced with the most substantial materials, and cultivated 
with great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading principle 
with the society, to allow of no private property ; all the 
possessions of those who join them are thrown into the 
common stock, and submitted at once to their peculiai* 



CITY OF ALBANY. 27 

system of life and government. Celibacy they insist upon 
as indispensable ; and they profess to banish the love of 
wealth and ambition, as well as luxury in all its degrees, 
from all their territories. 

The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came from 
England some years ago, and established a small " fam- 
ily," as they call it, which has been sui;ceeded by 
■various similar institutions in different parts of the 
'Country. They regard that v/oman as nearly equal to 
the Saviour of the world ; and themselves as the only 
persons who have received that spiritual light which is ne- 
cessary to understand and practise the duty of man, that 
is, to renounce the pleasures of the world, and, by a life 
of self-denial, present a living testimony against error and 
wickedness. Their dress is plain, and their worship con- 
sists principally in a strange and disagreeable kind of 
dancing, whence they have their name, accompanied with 
a monotonous song. 

Some of their most experienced and perfect members, 
pretend to ''speak with tongues," heal diseases with 
a touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like 
the apostles. They consider the marriage contract as 
dissolved on joining the society. 

They pay great attention to the raising of garden seeds 
in most of their villages, as well as to several of the neat- 
er branches of manufacture, and derive from both a very 
handsome income, by making sales at home and in differ- 
ent parts of the country. Whoever has an opportunity to 
see this singular people, will probably feel gratified with 
their neatness, industry, and economy, but will perhaps 
leave the place with pity for some, and suspicion of others. 

The original settlement or family, is at Niscayuna, above 
Albany. 

ALBANY. 

The Albany Basin. The northern and western ca- 
nals unite at the distance of 8| miles from Albany, and 
terminate here, at a large basin, 4000 feet long. It has 
two or three handsome bridges, one vdth a draw to allow 
a passage for sloops, which leads from the foot of State- 
street. The pier which encloses the basin on the river 
side, is built of logs, and wide enough for a spacious 



28 ROUTES FROM ALBANY. 

Street. It is a place of deposit for vast quantities of 
lumber. 

NORTH ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

From Albany to Ballston and Saratog-a Springs, the 
traveller may take the railroad route throug^h Schenecta- 
dy, or ride to Troy, and take the railroad thence through 
Lansingburgh and Waterford, which joins the latter at 
Ballston. For Lake Champlain, take a canal packet at 
Troy. 

For the west, a series of railroads to Buffalo is partly 
finished as far as Canandaigua, 250^ miles. These are 
under different companies. At the other extremity of 
the line the Buffalo and Rochester railroad is in use to Ba- 
tavia, 32 miles. 

Description of a Canal Packet Boat. The length is 
60 or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the din- 
ing room, where two rows of tables are set. At night, 
mattresses are spread on the seats each side, and another 
row above them on cots suspended from the roof. The 
ladies are accommodated with berths in the cabin, which 
is usually carpeted, hung with curtains, and in other re- 
spects more handsomely furnished. 

A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will 
serve ,£o make the time pass agreeably, even if the travel- 
ler be a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many 
places, the view from the deck is highly interesting ; but 
It cannot be too often recommended to the stranger to be- 
ware of standing on deck when approaching a brid-je, and 
never to expose the head or hands out of a window. 

Rensselaerwyck, a fine estate with its respectable old 
mansion house, about a mile north of the centre of Albany 
is worthy of particular observation, as the seat of the late 
Hon. Stephen Van Rensselaer ; who bore the respected old 
Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of im- 
mense value, extending ten miles along the river, and 
double that distance east and west ; embracing besides, 
a fine tract on the Black river, &c. It was formerly en- 
tailed, and secured by law to the oldest son of the family. 

■U. States Arsenal, 5,^ miles, at Watervleit. 

The ground occupied by the arsenal extends from the 



TROY. 2^ 

road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal. 
The muskets are partly packed in boxes, and partly ranged 
uprig-ht, with fixed bayonets, in compact order ; and pre- 
sent an appearance truly formidable. Thousands of pistols 
are hung over head ; those in the alternate lines standing, 
different ways ; and swords with metallic scabbards are 
disposed horizontally on wire hooks. The walls bear 
several devices formed of swords, pistols, &c. inge- 
niously arranged. This is the principal depot of arms and 
equipments in the northern states. 

The passages and staircases are hung with drums, &p. 
On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillery, and va- 
rious sizes of shot, shells, &c. (fee. 

In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the 
north is devoted to work shops for the repair of arms, 
manufacturing locks, &c. The buildings on the south side 
are occupied by smiths and carpenters. Behind these is 
a handsome flower and fruit garden : the kitchen garden 
being on the north side of the grounds. 

Li the yard are a number of cannon,^ &c. There ai*e 4 
medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken 
at Saratoga; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer, 
taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one 8 
inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 
ponnders and 14 guns, sent by King Louis to the Conti- 
nental Congress in the revolution. These are all of brass 
and most of them highly ornamented. The French guns 
presented by the king, bear each an individual name for- 
ward, and the inscription " Ultima ratio regum " — (the 
last argument of kings.) 

There are also 3 or 4 howitzers cast in New York and Phi- 
ladelphia in the revolution, someof the oldest specimens of 
Buoh manufacture in this country. They bear the letters 
U. C. for United Colonies. 

Troy. On the opposite side of the river, is a very 
handsome town, with fine hills in the rear, the most pro- 
minent of which has received the name of Mount Ida, to 
correspond with the classic appellation of the place. — 
There is a good horse ferry, which helps to render the town, 
a gi-eat thoroughfare during the travelling season. The 
Dam, Basin and Viaducts at Troy are expensive works^ 

The railroad to Ballston meets the Schenectady and 
Saratoga railroads 



30 TROT. 

Sandy Lake is 10 miles southwest, Nassau 8 more, viY 
lage of New-Lebanon 12 miles further, and Lebanon' 
Springs 2 more. 

On Mount Ida, tlie hill east of Troy, is a fine succes- 
sion of water falls, on two streams, the Poestenkill and' 
the Wynantskill. One of them has cut its way in some 
places to a great depth, and takes three or four perpen- 
dicular leaj)S at short intervals of only a few yards. The 
road to New-Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which 
is woithy of attention for its pictui'esque character. 

Mount Ida. The view from the top of this hill, and' 
still more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive 
and beautiful. 

The Academy for young Indies is a very respectable 
institution — long directed by Mi's. Emma Willard. 

Troy. Very fine packet boats ply on the canal from Ttoj 
to Whitehall, setting out early in the morning, and arriv- 
ing before night. This mode of travelling is recommend- 
ed on account of convenience, and the good opportunity it 
affords of viewing the battle-ground of Saratoga or 
Behmis's Heights, the field of surrender, &c. 

Hydrostatic Lock. In order to prevent fraud in the 
collection of toll, one of these works has been constructed 
at Troy. They are commonly called weigh-locks. 

The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and 
is filled from it by a paddle gate. On a level below the 
chamber is a receptacle, into which the chamber can be 
emptied ; and from this the water can be discharged. 

After an empty boat has been once weighed, she \& 
numbered, and her weight is registered at the several 
hydrostatic locks. 

The opportunity for looking around on every side is- 
much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage-- 
coach, or even a private carriage, although it sometimes 
happens, that the road commands more extensive views 
than the canal. The immediate scene from the latter^ 
however, will usually be found the most agreeable ; for 
a smooth sheet of water, with level and often grassy 
banks, is a more pleasant sight than a long stretch of a 
muddy or sandy highway. Besidies, it is always free 
from the inconvenience of dust, which frequently renders 
the roads in this part of the country extremely uncomfortable. 

The Double Locks just below the junction of the nor^rhp- 



REMARKS ON THE CANAL> 31 

em and western canals, are built of marble from Westches- 
ter county. 

The Junction, 8^ miles from Albany, is where the 
Northern and Western Canals nieet and unite. To this 
spot the canal has been of a greater width than either of 
the branches will be found to be. The Northern Canal 
runs to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a dis- 
tance of 685 miles, passing through Waterfbrd, Half- 
moon, Stillwater, near Behmis's Heights, (14 miles from 
Waterford,) with the battle-grounds of General Bur- 
goyne, Fort Hardy, where he suiTendered, Fort Miller^. 
Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. 

The Erie or Western Canal extends to Buffalo, on 
Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 8!} locks, 
which raise and lower the water 688 feet in all. The 
principal points where the most labour and expense were 
required, are the following : 

The Basin at x\lbany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, — 
the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on 
which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long 
Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the 
beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the 
long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great 
Embankment at Victor, where for two miles the boats 
pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Ge- 
nesee at Rochester, — the five double combined locks at 
Lockport, and the long pier at Black Rock. 

At the nine Locks, the road to Waterford leaves the 
Erie Canal on the west, and the Champlain Canal on 
the east ; and crosses the Mohawk River below the Co- 
hoes Falls. There is a very fine view of the locks, the riv- 
er, and the falls, from the road which runs along the south 
bank of the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. 

CoHoES Falls. This is the great Cataract of the Mo- 
hawk River. The height of the fall is 62 feet. The 
banks are mere walls of stratified rock, rough, and some- 
times hollowed out beneath, rising about 140 feet above the 
river for a great distance below the falls. At first view 
the cataract appears almost as regular as a mill-dam; but 
on a nearer approach, the ledge of rocks over which the 
water is precipitated is found extremely irregular an<i; 
broken. Many fine fish are caught at the bottom. 
4 



32 SCHENECTADY. 

ScHENECTADT IS one of the oldest settlements in the 
state, having been occupied as a little frontier fortress 
before the year 1665, when it was attacked by a party of 
French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many 
of the inhabitants murdered. This party was designed 
against the Five Nations ; but being much worn down with 
travelling in the winter, they fell on Schenectady. 

Union College is conspicuously situated a little out of 
town. Dr Nott is president of this highly respectable 
institution. 

The traveller now enters a region of peculiar interest in 
the history of the state, and indeed of the country. The 
first settlement of Albany by the Dutch, (in 1610,) was 
made with the intention of trading with the Iroquois, or 
Five Nations of Indians, who occupied the territory west 
of it. These were stationed in the following order : the 
Mohawks, Oneidas, Cayugas, Onondagas and Senecas or 
Onondowachwas as they called themselves. The French 
in Canada often endeavoured to detach these tribes from 
the Dutch, and subsequently from the English, but with- 
out success. 

They carried on a trade with the Dutch and the En- 
glish, very valuable to the latter. In the French wars in 
the first half of the last century, and still later, they aided 
the English with scouts and soldiers, and often suffered 
severely for their faithfulness. In the Revolution, the 
Americans wished to persuade them to remain neutral: 
but some of them were drawn off to the British interest 
by Sir John Johnson, who resided at Johnstown ; and thus 
the region between Schenectady and the most distant part 
of the state at that time settled by white men was, for 
several years, ravaged by war. Bodies of Indians, led by 
British officers, frequently came from Canada by forced 
marches, and falling by surprise upon the settlements, 
burned the baildings, carried off or destroyed the pro- 
perty, and killed or captured the inhabitants.^ A line of 
scattered villages then lying on and near the route of the 
present railroads, roads and canals, several times suffered 
in this manner; and the enemy often crossed that line, 
and penetrated more than once as far as the Valley of 
Wyoming in Pennsylvania. 

Among tlifi most melancholy events caused by war in- 



f2 




ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 33 

this part of the Union was the destruction of Schenectady 
by the French and Indians in the year 1665. The inhabit- 
ants were disaffected towards the troops, who had been 
furnished them for protection, and were so secure that 
they disregarded all precautions, and, being- attacked at 
midnight, were easily overcome. Many of them fled to 
Albany in great distress over the inhospitable plain which 
the railroad crosses. 

Schenectady, 15 miles from Albany, is a town of con- 
siderable size, at a point where the Erie Canal and the 
railroad meet ihe Mohawk. Those who have leisure 
may be pleased with the canal route between Albany and 
this place, as it twice crosses the river on aqueducts, and 
passes the Cohoes Falls, (70 feet high,) and a fine display 
of nine double locks below it. 

FROM SCHENECTADY TO UTICA. 

3y the Canal., 79^ miles. 

Rotterdam Flats - - 3 miles. 

Flint Hill ... 8 

Fort Hunter - - - 10 
North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, is 
the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like 
piost of the places of defence built in this state during the 
revolution and the French wars, it was small, and fitted 
only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to 
approach the settlements on this frontier. 

Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk 
Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel built by 
Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last century, for 
the use of that nation. It is known by the name of 
Queen Anne's Chapel. 

Tribe's Hill, (called by the corruption of the German 
neighbours. Tripe's Hill,) is a fine eminence crossed by the 
stage-road. On its summit was formerly the principal 
fort and village of the Mohawks. This tribe, being the 
most eastern of "the Five Nations," was most knov/n by 
the Indians of New-England, whose bitter enemies they 
were. Al the time when Massachusetts was first settled, 
tiiey governed the country as far east as Connecticut 
River. The fort on this hill was once taken by surprise 
by the French. The railroad lies at its base. 



34 SCHOHARIE CKEEK. 

Schoharie Creek. 1 mile. Here is a collection of 
several very interesting works, formed for the convenient 
passage of boats across a broad and rapid stream. A 
guard lock preserves the water in the canal from rising or 
falling, and the current of the creek is set back by a dam 
a little below, nearly to the same level. The dam is con- 
structed in a manner best calculated to resist the pressure 
of the current in floods, and when increased by the ice. 
It has a broad foundation and a narrow top ; and it is 
built so as to present an angle against the middle of the 
■current. An ingenious invention has been devised for 
drawing boats across the creek by machinery. A wheel 
turned by a horse moves a rope, which is stretched double 
across, and is carried round a wheel on the other side ; 
aline attached to this draws the boats, they being kept in 
their course by another line, which slides upon a long rope 
stretched across the creek on the other side of the boats. 

Caughnawaga, 4^ miles. The village of Johnstown 
is situated at the distance of four miles north of the 
canal, ^ The railroad passes it. 

* At Johnstown, on the road, are two fine houses, built of stone, 
standing at the distance of a mile from each other. They were 
■erected by Sir William Johnson and his family, as tiiis tract 
of country was the place of his residence, and formed a j.art 
of his vast and valuable estate. There was originally a third 
house, similarly built, and at the interval ofanniher mile: but that 
was consumed by fire. Col. Guy Johnson, and Col, John Johnson, 
(sons of Sir VVdIiam,) inhabited two of them until the revolution- 
ary war ; when, having attached themselves to the British inte- 
rest, they removed into Canada, and their estates were confiscated. 
Colonel John afterwards came down with a party of French and 
Indians, attacked the town, and made prisoners many of his old 
friends and neighbours. 

Sir William Johnson, who makes so conspicuous a figure in the 
history of the state about the time of the French war, was born in 
Ireland, in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation 
of his uncle, Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large estate 
here through his wife. Sir William became well acquainted with 
the Indian language and manners, and acquired a greater influ- 
ence over them than any other white man ever possessed He 
rose from the station of a private soldier to the rank of a General 
and commanded at Lake George in 1755, although, as will hereaf- 
ter be seen, the title which he there received was redly merited 
by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he tocdi Fort Niagara, and in 
1769 went to join Gen. Amherst at Oswego, and assisted in the 
capture of Montreal. He died and was buried at his seat July 7, 



feOtlTE TO is^IAGAkA* 35 

AMtlH[OJJY*s Nose, 7| miles. This is a high and pro^ 
tnihent hill, rising abruptly on the southern bank of th6 
Hver. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which extends 
downwards to a great depth, with several apartments of 
fcousiderable size. Thio hill is represented in one of the 
plates; but the view is taken from a spot west of it. 
The spot is quite picturesque, and presents a remarkable 
assemblage of interesting objects: the [Vlohawk River, 
Winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike on 
the north side, the canal and a country road on the south? 
the whole enclosed by rough and elevated hills. 

There is every appearance of a rent in the hills having 
been made by a strong current of Vvater; and geologists 
consider them as having originally been a barrier to a 
great lake which was thus gradually drained. 

C.4.NAJ0HAR1E CrKEK AND ViLLaGE, 5 milsS. 

Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, belong- 
ing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Germans.. 
It occupies the site of Old Fort Plain. The German Ian* 
guago, much corrupted, is spoken here. 

This little fort was surprised by captain Butlet in the 
fevolutiotidrv war, on his returning from burning Cherry 
Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities. 

Dam on the River ^ and Feeder for the Canal, 4 miles. 

The Mouth of East Canada Creek, on the opposite 
side of the iMohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler mei 
a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his way 
back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had crossed 
the river sumewheri; below, and while lingering a little in 
the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the mouth of 
the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship with the 
Americans. Seeing them preparing to kill him, he begged 
for his life; but they only replied ''Sherry Valley!" and 
tomahawked him on the spot. 

1774, at the age of 60, very rich, in coHsequence of the increased 
value of his extensive estate ailer the French war. This build- 
ing was erected in 1773, and stands nearly a mile westward froiB 
the village It is called the Hall. 

4* 



36 tiTttE FALLS. 

Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. This was the principal 
defensive position of that famou'S nation of Indians, now 
entirely scattered and lost. Here is aii old chapel erected 
for their use. 

Little Falls. The country presents a varied sur- 
face, and increases in interest on approaching Little Falls, 
which is the most romantic scene on the course of the 
Erie Canal. On reaching a little open meadow surround- 
ed by hills, where the views open upon culiivated fields 
and a few farm houses, the Mohawk will be found flowing 
below, on the right; while on the opposite side, at the 
foot of the hills and on the verge of the forest that covers 
them, the great road is seen, after having been lost to the 
view for a long time. The road, river, canal, and railroad 
meet again at the head of the valley ; for there is but one 
passage, and that so narrow as hardly to afford room for 
them all. This is a deep cut through a chain of lime- 
stone and granite hills, doubtless torn away in some 
former age by the force of water. If the chain were 
again filled up it would throw the water back, and form 
an immense lake, such as is su|)posed to have once ex- 
isted west of this place, and which, by overflowing its 
bounds, in process of time wore away the limestone stra* 
ta, and cut deep into the hard granite, until a mere river 
succeeded, and the fine alluvial plains above, called the 
German Flats, were left dry. 

The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view of 
this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant 
day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty of 
the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank of the 
river, the road climbs along the side of the rocks, where 
there is barfly room for its passage. A great part of the 
v;ay it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one side, 
while on the other is a precipice of granite, cut down by 
the force of the water in perpendicular shafts, originally 
formed by drills, made by loose stones whirled round in 
the current. The same appearance extends to the islands 
and rocks in the channels, many of which appear quite 
inaccessible, with their ragged and perpendicular sides 
overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more 
intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cas- 



ROUifE to NIAGARA. 3? 

eades below. In some places the road is protected by 
immense natural battlements, formed of massy rock- 
which have been loosened from above, and planted them- 
selves on the brow of the precipice. 

On the south side of the river runs the canal, support- 
ed by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great ex- 
pense, and rising from the very channel of the Mohawk. 
The wildness of the surrounding scenery contrasts no 
less with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the 
violence and tumult of the Mohawk, v/ith the placid and 
silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security 
with which the boats glide along the side of the moun- 
tains. 

The traveller in a boat may step on shore and walk 
along the tow paths, as there are five more locks a 
mile above. If he wishes to stop a few hours to view the 
scene more at leisure, the village of Little Falls is only 
half a mile from that place, where is a large and comfort- 
able inn, with cars, boats and coaches passing very 
frequently. If he intends to stay but a few hours, it is 
recommended to him to have his baggage left at a little 
tavern on the canal, where it can be readily transferred to 
another vehicle. 

The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the 5 locks ; 
and is considered the most finished specimen of mason 
work on the line of the canal, though much inferior in 
size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. It conducts 
a supply of water from the old canal, formerly built for 
boats to pass the falls, and communicates also with a 
large basin on the north bank. It passes the narrow 
channel of the river with three beautiful arches, which 
are covered with a calcareous cement roughened by little 
stalactites, formed by the water that continually drips 
through the stones. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on which 
the water falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar 
substance. The channel here shows part of the old lime- 
stone strata, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare 
below. 

This neighbourhood is interesting to the geologist, 
abounding m organic remains, &c. but the ordinary tra- 
veller will be more pleased with specimens of the beauti- 



38 uficA. 

fill little rock-crystals, (quartz,) which are found ofl lh& 
hills about a mile distant from the village. They are per-* 
feet in their foririi terminating with two pyramids j and 
are so loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, as to be washed! 
out by the rains in considerable numbers.' 

There are mills of various kinds a£ this place. 

On leaving Litcle Fails, the canal ertters upon a beau-- 
tiful meadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface; through 
which the Mohawk winds in a placid and gentle current,' 
enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance 
of lhre6nnles we are in the level region called the Ger-> 
tnan Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who- 
are almost all of German extraction, still preserve their 
language, and many of the customs of their ancestors j 
and though often laborious and provident farmers, arei 
little inclined to those improvements in learning or the' 
useful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of th^ 
state. Tl^e scenes presented along this part of the tanalV 
bear a resemblance to some of the meadows of the Con-^ 
iiecticut, although of inferior size, and of more recent 
settlement. 

Herkimer. This village is situated about 7.^ mile^ 
beyond, and a mile north of the canal, orl a semicircular" 
plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the Mo- 
hawk, and the diameter by the railroad. It derives its^ 
name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there will be more to 
gay a,t Rome. 

The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton 
Falls, and join the canal at tJtica ; or go first from Utica^ 

The Long Level begins at Lock No 53, neaily sil 
miles west of Herkimer It is the longest reach on the 
canal without any ir terruption by locks, extending to Sa- 
lina, a distance of 69^ miles, 40O feet above tide. 

Utica. This is one of the largest and most important 
bf the western towns Hotels, Bagg's, Canal Coffee-* 
House, i^ranklin, City Hotel, J\ational. Public buildings, 
&c. 3 Banks, 16 Churches, Female Institute, High 
School, Academy, Rcadmg Room, and Library of thd 
Y. Men's Association, (open to strangerS;) Lyceum, &c. 

The streets are broad, straight and commodious; and 
the principal ones well built, with rows of brick stores, 



ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 39 

•*or elegant dwelling houses. The bridge over the Mo- 
hawk, is at the end of the street. 

Hamilton College is situated near the village of 
Olintjn, 9 miles from Utica. 

Trenton Falls. This most interesting vicinity is 
well worthy the attention of every person of taste, being 
justly considered, one of the finest natural scenes in this 
part of the country. 

From this house you descend a long stair case down 
the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has cut 
a frightful chasm through a rocky range, m some places 
150 feet deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by through a 
declining channel below. The chasm continues for four 
miles, and presents the greatest variety of cascades and 
rapids, boiling pools and eddies. The passage or chasm 
between the rocks is everywhere very narrow, and in 
some places barely of sufficient breadth to permit the 
stream to pass; while the rocks rise perpendicularly on 
each side, or sometimes even project a considerable dis- 
tance over head, so that it has been often necessary to 
form an artificial path by means of gunpowder. These 
places appear dangerous, but only require a little cautiori 
and presence of mind to insure ihe safety of the visiter, 
as strong iron chains are fixed into the rock to offer him 
security. There are four principal cataracts, between 
the staircase by which you first descend and the usual 
limit of an excursion, which is about a mile and a quar- 
ter up the stream. The first of these you discover soon 
after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high ; with the 
greatest fall towards the west The top of the rock on 
the right side is 150 feet high by line measurement. The 
second is a regular fall, much like a milldam, about 8 
feet high; the third a remarkably striking and beautiful 
one; and the fourth rather a succession of cascades, but 
presents many most agreeable varieties. 

Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred in 
1827. A lady from New- York was drowned by slipping 
from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends and parents 
were near her. The ear is stunned by the falls, the rocks 
are slippery and great caution is recommended. 

Ab©ut a mile and a quarter from the house, is a smali 



49 FORT STAKWIX. 

building' erected for the supply of refreshinents. A singU' 
Ig-r species of tree is found in this neighbourhood', called 
the white cedar, with drooping branches, which often 
grow to such a length as to descend far below the root, 
towards the water. The rocks here are all a dark lime- 
stone, of a very slaty structure, and contain astonishing' 
quantities of petrified marine shells and other animals of 
an antediluvian date, such as Dilobites, Trilobites, &c. 

There are several other cataracts besides those already 
mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might 
spend some time here very agreeably in observing then* 
at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the 
creek abounds. The house is commodious, and has the- 
reputation of furnishing one of the best tables in thia part 
of the state. 

From Utica to Syracuse, by the canal, 63| miles, 
Whitestown 4, Oriskany village 7, Rome on the right 8, 
Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. Arsenal 1, 
Oneida Creek, 14, Lock 54, end of the long level 29, Sy-? 
racuse|. These places are noted in succession. 

Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this 
part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All 
this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 1785, 
■when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connecticut, first 
took up his abode here and lifted an axe against the forest. 
The traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his 
journey, and the progress of civilization will appear rnore 
astonishing. 

Siege of Fort Stanwix. On the road from Whites- 
town to Rome, is the spot where Gen. Herkimer sat down 
under a tree after receiving his mortal wound. In 1777, 
Gen. Burgoyne sent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of 
them savages, under Baron St. Leger, from Montreal, by 
Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; and then to go down 
the Mohawk to Albany. Early in August they arrived at 
Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, commander of the militia 
of Tryon county, was sent against them with 800 men. 
His men insisted on going on, to meet a detachment under 
Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Leger; but at the first shot 
they fled. A few remained and fought, and Gen. H. was 
mortally wounded. Congress voted a monument to his 
in&mory, but it has never been erected. The Americana 



ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 41 

lost 160 killed, and 240 wounded and prisoners. [Two 
miles below Fort Stanwix the canal commences between 
the Mohawk and Wood Creek.] 

Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of 
the villaofe of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of pali- 
sades, and a block house in the middle. It was defended 
against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort. Lieut. Col. WilJet 
drove him off by a sortie, and plundered the camp. He 
was intercepted on his x'eturn, but cut his way through, 
and returned without the loss of a man. When Sir J. 
Johnson returned from the battle with Gen. Herkimer, 
the fortress was summoned, but refused to surrender ; and 
Col. Willet and Lieut. Stockton left the fort to inform 
the people towards Albany, of its situation^ They crept 
through the enemy's camp, and got to Gen. Schuyler's 
head quarters at Stillwater. Gen. Arnold volunteered to 
relieve it ; and frightened the besiegers by means of two 
emissaries, an Indian and a white man, who told such sto- 
ries of the force of the Americans, that they left their 
baggage and fled precipitately to Oneida Lake. 

Oneida Castle. This is a village on the confines of 
a tract of reserved land belonging to the Indians of the 
Oneida nation. The principal residences of most of the 
Indians in this part of the country were formerly fortified 
in a manner corresponding with their ideas of warfare, 
and hence the name of castle attached to this village, as 
well as to several others, which we may have occasion to 
speak of further on. 

The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, 
which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this 
state, and whose power and influence, at the time of the 
settlement of New-York and New-England, were extended 
far and wide. They held the Dalawares in subjection in 
Pennsylvania and Delaware; the Cherokees in South Ca- 
rolina sought their friendship ; and all the country between 
the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tributary to them. 
They must have been at that time extremely numerous. 
But since then their decrease has been great ; for besides 
the losses they have sustained in wars, and the diseases 
brought upon them by civilized vices, many of their young 
men have left their native country to go and join tlie tribes 



42 SYRACUSE. SALT WORKS. 

who Still preserve some portion of their original habits ant? 
independence. 

A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by the road side, is 
the ancient Council Gkove, where all the public busi- 
ness of the nation was for many years, transacted. 
It is formed of fine butternut trees, which, in the summer 
season, from a little distance, present a beautiful and re- 
gular mass of verdure. Towards the southeast from this 
place is seen the Episcopal church, a building erected for 
the use of the Indians. 

Syracuse. This place is no less remarkable for the 
rapidity of its growth, than for the peculiar advantages of 
its situation. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a 
half distant; and the water is raised 85 feet, and brought' 
in hollow logs to the salt vats, and at a very trifling ex- 
pense. These vats cover 400 acres at the western side of 
the village, and are well worthy of a day's delay, as well 
as the works at Salina, Liverpool, and Geddesburgh. — 
The vats are large pans inade of wood, three orfour inches 
deep, raised a little from the gi'ound, and placed in long 
ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt wa- 
ter to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each 
range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpen- 
dicularly in the ground; and the constant action of the sun 
evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in 
small cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a 
little thick, but gradually deposits its impurities; and the 
lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the' 
purest snow. Within 7 miles are 180 salt woi'ks. 

Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the 
vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out 
once in two or three days, to be deposited in the store- 
houses, which are built at regular distances. 

Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then is 
ready for transportation to any part of the country. 

The Oswego Canal leaves the Erie canal at this place,. 
and opens a direct communication with Lake Ontario. 

The bank is used as a tow path a considei^able distance.. 
The shores rise gradually to a height of 100 feet, with few 
inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and other 
works are of the best description, and very admirable 
worliraanshipo. 



ROUTE TO NIAGARA, 43 

Salina ia situated a mile and a half north from this 
^lace, and should not be passed by unnoticed. A small 
but oonvenient little packet-boat is continually plying be- 
tween the two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes 
by many salt manufactories, built on both sides of the 
canal. The mode of evaporation generally adopted here, 
is that of boiling i Euid a brief description will convey a 
clear idea of the. process. Each building contains sixteen 
or eighteen large iron kettles, which are placed in two 
rows, forming what is called "a block." They stand 
about three feet higher than the floors and under them is 
a large furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and re- 
quires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. 
The water is drawn from a large reservoir at one end 
of the building, after having been allowed to stand awhile 
and deposit the impurities it has brought along with it. 
A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with 
openings against the kettles, is the only machine used in 
filling them. The first deposit made by the water after the 
boiling commences, is a compound of several substances, 
and is thrown away, under the name of '* Bittern ;" 
but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its 
appearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store- 
room just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market. 

There are large manufactories here, where salt is made 
in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated by hot 
air passing through them in large pipes. The pipe is sup- 
plied with heat by a furnace below, and the salt is formed 
in large loose masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The 
crystallization also is different from that produced by the 
other modes, at least in secondary forms. 

The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a flou- 
rishing appearance. The extensive marshes which bound 
it on the we^t are extremely unwholsome during the 
warmer seasons of the year, and the whole neighbour- 
hood is more or less infected with the fever and ague, that 
terrible scourge, which has retarded so much the settlement 
of many parts of the western countrj'. Since the marshes 
have been partially cleared and draiired, the disease has 
been greatly diminished. 

The branch canal which runs through this village, is ap- 
plied to other valuable purposes beside those of transpor- 

5 



44 SALINA. SALT W0KK3, 

tation. A sluice •which draws off a portion of the waiter 
towards the marshes and the lake, is made to turn several 
mill wheels in its course A forcing' pump raises the wa- 
ter of the salt spring- destined to supply the manufactories 
here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame building 
shows the spot from which all the kettles and the 
pans of both these places derive their supplies : that 
for the latter being elevated to the height of 85 feet. 

The 8alt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, 
but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- 
pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the sur- 
face, and the source would seem by no means equal to the 
great draughts which are continually made upon it. 

The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. 
It is sixTtiiles long and two broad, and must receive a con- 
siderable quantity of salt water from the draining of the 
marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The 
valley is surrounded by limestone hills, with petrifactions, 
and gypsum is found in great quantities. 

" The American Salt Formation,^^ says Dr. Van 
Rensselaer in his ' Essay,' " extends over the continent 
from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, between 31° and 45° 
North Latitude. In this immense tract, rock salt has 
been occasionally found ; but its locality is more generally 
pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in this state 
are in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, 
Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Oneida, but this 
is the most valuable on various accounts. During the year 
ending August 1823, 606,463 bushels were manufactured 
here. In 1800 there were only 42,754. 

45 gallons of water makes a bushel of salt. At Nan- 
tucket 350 gallons of sea water are required. 

The follL-wing approximated analysis of the water of 
this spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton College. 
40 gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs. of saline extract. 

Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. Carb. Lime, coloured by 
ox)'de of iron, 6^ oz. Sulph. Lime, 2'lb. 4 oz. Muriate 
Lime. 1 lb. 125 oz. and probably muriate magnesia, and 
sulph. soda. 

From Syracuse to Rochester. Railroad. 

By the canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 miles. — 
A coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 11 m. Monts- 



OSWEGO C ? 




ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 45 

Euma Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. 
The canal across the marshes v/as constructed at a vast 
expense, 35 m. Palmyra. Coachto Canandaigua, 13 m. 
for 75 cents. The Great Embankment, 72 feet high, 
extending 2 m. 

Antiquities. In the towns of Onondaga, Camillus, 
and Pompey, are the remains of ancient villages and forts, 
of which a description will be found in Yates and Moul- 
ton's History of the State, vol. I. p. 13. In Pompey 
the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the 
remains of something like circular or elliptical forts at 
the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more 
than 500 acres. De Witt Clinton, the late Governor of 
this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. 
and Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the 
north line. 

In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three 
acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a 
spring on the west and a gate towards the east. Another 
is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large. 
Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick have been picked up in 
these places. (There is a bed of Coal in Onondaga.) 

ROCHESTER 

Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part of 
the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of 
numbers. It is situated on the west side of Genesee 
river, at the upper falls, where it i:* crossed by the canal; 
and enjoys the finest advantages for water mills of all kinds, 
from the convenient and abundant supply obtained from 
the falls. 

Hotels. Rochester House, Eagle, Mansion, Monroe, 
Clinton and Arcade. 

Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, 
the first settlement made in 1812, audit was not until the 
latter part of the year 1814, that any considerable addition 
was made to the number of inhabitants. 

In the museum may be seen the remains of mammoths 
dug up in this town and vicinity. 

There are many fine dwellings, the court house. Arcade, 
Athenaeum and Pagoda, gaol, market, 20 large flour milia 



45 ROCHESTER, 

of Stone. There are three bridges over the Genesef?^ 
eight canal basins, two dry docks, &c. The Broadway 
bridge, 600 feet long, is a few yards above the aquedact. 

The water power belonging to this village and the 
vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 horses ; or, 1,92© 
steam engines of 20 horse power each. Therefore the 
water power is worth (computing the cost of such en- 
gines, as in England, at $8,880 each ; and the annual 
expense of working at 222 dollars for each horse power,) 
almost ten millions annually. The whole river supplies 
20,000 cubic feet a minute ; and the combined height of 
the falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280' feet. A 
fall of 12^ cubic feet of water in a minute 2&feet, is equal 
to the power of one horse. 

The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest 
works on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- 
able for its usefulness than for its architectural beauty 
and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, oh 
ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly 
along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers^ 
glide safely above. 

A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, 
where sluices are also constructed for the supply of the 
numerous manufactories built on the bank. Other 
sluices are also dug on the west side, where many other 
mills are to be seen. The streets of the town are har/d- 
somely and regularly laid out, and several of them are 
very well built with store and dwelling houses o£ brick 
and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. 

Falls. There is a fall in the Genesee of about 9& 
feet, near the northern extremity of the town, another 
near it ; and a fine one at Carthage, which, w^ith the 
truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of par- 
ticular attention. To vary the ride, it is recommended 
to the stranger to go down on one side of the river, and 
after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge a little above> 
and return on the other. 

Carthage. The fall here is very sudden, though not 
in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few- 
yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring for ages,, 
as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, perpen- 
dicular and ragged banks;, is s\ifficient Sestimony i aa-^ 



ROUTE TO NIAGARA. '47 

tke seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime effect 
of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, 
combine to render it one of the most impressive scenes 
in this part of the country. The precipices are walls of 
secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratification, 
and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth 
of about two hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish 
stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and 
disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept 
at their present position ; its superior hardness, evident- 
ly resisting the action of the water, for a much longer 
time ; and probably rendering the descent more perpendi- 
cular than it would otherwise be. The rocks are over- 
hung with thick forest trees, which, in some places, have 
been able to find a narrow footing along the sides. 

Here are the hutments of a bridge thrown over a few 
years ago. It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the 
water ; but stood only a short time, and then fell v/ith a 
tremendous crash, by its own weight. Fortunately no 
person was crossing it at the time — a lady and gentleman 
had just before passed, and safely reached the other side. 
On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation 
is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication 
between the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, 
and Lake Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise is 
raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an 
inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight 
is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. 

Road from Rochsster to Niagara Falls, 87 miles. 

To Lochport, and thence a railroad to the Falls. 

To Carthage Falls - - 2j To Gaines 8 

Parma ----- 9 Oak Orchard - - - 7 
Clarkson - - - - 7 Cambria - - - - - 11 
Hartland - - - - 14 Lewiston - - - - 15 
Sandy Creek - - - 7J Niagara Falls - - - 7 

The principal objects on this road, are the Ridge, Lew- 
iston on Niagara River, and the Tuscarora Village. Ni- 
agara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Cana- 
da at Lewiston ; and Queenstown if you do. Lockport 
may also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hartland, 



• 40 LOCKFOKT^ 

54 miles from Rochester, where a vehicle awaits the ut-^ 
rival of the coach, to take travellers to Lockport, 7 miles^ 
It will be proper, however, to pay your passage only %& 
this place, if you determine to stop here. 

Instead of going by land from Rochester, it may be more 
convenient to take passage in the canal boat to Lockport r 
and there take the railroad. 

The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, 
and for the most part very narrow, extending a great 
part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It i» 
often perfectly level for several miles, and affords an ad- 
mirable foundation for the road, which has, in conse- 
quence, been laid along its top. 

The ground pre&ents a slope on each side of the path, 
peculiarly well adapted for home lots, gardens, and or- 
chards ; and the frequency and facility of transportation 
give the inhabitants very manifest advantages. Som& 
well built, and even handsome houses will be observed^ 
which are still few indeed, but show that a good style ha» 
actually been introduced. 

Lockport. This is one of the interesting places on the 
canal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two ranges^ 
made of fine hewn stone, being constructed against the 
brow of the Mountain Ridge, where the foaming of the 
waste water, the noise of mills, and the bustle of occupa- 
tion excite many lively feelings. Above the locks the 
Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high walls of 
rocks. 

Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for 
m:achinery on the canal, as all the water passes down 
the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an ex- 
tent of 135 miles : Tonawanta Creek being the only 
feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca River. It is brought 
down by passing round the double locks, and falls 55 
feet into a large natural basin. The rocks are blasted out 
to a depth of 60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has 
been changed from a wilderness to a village of several 
hundred houses. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to 
Buffalo. 

Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, 
containing organic remains: encrinites, enthrocites, &c. 
&c. crystals of carb. lime, rhomboidal, dog-tooth spar. 



o 



^ ^ 




ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 49 

12 sided; fluate of lime; beautiful crystals of sulphate 
of lime ; sulph. of strontian ; pyrites; sulphuret of zinc; 
sulphuret of lead. Collections of minerals may be pur- 
chased here. 

The Tuscakora Reservation is an oblong tract of 
land reaching- within a mile of Lewiston. They emi- 
grated from North Carolina, near the beginning of the 
last century, at an inviiaiion from the Five Nations, and 
were admitted on equal terms into their confederacy, 
which has since received the name of the Six Nations. 
They have had a clergyman settled among them for 
many years, and Christianity has been voluntarily adopted 
by them. Their village has some handsome and well 
cultivated farms, and a house built for public worship. 

Hints to the Traveller at Lewiston. 

It will be the intention of many strangers v/ho arrive 
at this place, to devote several days to viewing the Falls 
of Niagara, the battle grounds in the vicinity, and per- 
haps in making short excursions in different directions-. 
To those who have leisure, such a course may well be 
recommended ; and it may be almost a matter of indif- 
ference whether they first visit the American or the Bri- 
tish side. The public accommodations are excellent at 
both places, and the river may be safely crossed at any 
hour of the day, by a ferry, at the expense of about half 
a dollar, including the transportation of luggage down 
and up the steep banks. Staircases are erected near 
the falls, on the British as well as the American side, to 
furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot of 
the cataract, where the charge is 25 cents for each per- 
son. During the pleasant seasons of the year, both 
places are the resort of great throngs of visiters. Stage 
coaches also pass up and down on both sides every day. 

To such, however, as have but a short time to spend 
in this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended 
to proceed directly to the British side. The cataract on 
that side is higher, broader, more unbroken, and gene- 
rally acknowledged to be the noblest part of the scene. 
The visiter may indeed see it to great advantage from 
Goat Island, on the American side, but the view from 
Table Rock ought by no means to be neglected. Tho 



50 JfALtS OP NIAGARA. 

finest views from ike level of the water below are now af" 
forded on both sides. 

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA— /rom if^e American side. 

The Inn or Hotel is a large building, and very well 
kept and commodious. 

On the American side a bridge crosses a frightful part 
■of the rapids to Bath Island, and another thence to Goat 
Island. Part of a bridge rf^mains, which extended to Ter- 
rapin Rocks, and beyond to the brow of the cataract. By 
it you may reach the Stone Tower, to the top of which a 
winding staircase leads, affording a most impressive view 
of the awful scene below. 

The Biddle Staircase, erected at the expense of Nicho- 
las Biddle, Esq. of Philadelphia, leads from Iris Island to 
the bottom of the precipice. You descend first stone 
steps 40 feet, between stonewalls, then by 88 steps under 
a wooden cover, which brings you to three pathways with 
stone steps, which conduct to the water's edge, whence 
the view upward is most imposing. 

Several picturesque and romantic avenues and rocky 
recesses are to be seen at different parts of the river's 
banks. 

The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet perpen- 
dicular, but somewhat broken in several places by the 
projecting rocks* It extends 300 yards to a rock which 
interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. A narrow 
sheet appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, 
with a mural precipice. Between this and the other 
shore is the Grand Crescent, for which see a few pages 
beyond. The long bridge to the island, which com- 
mands many fine views of the falls, rests on wooden 
piers sunk with stones. 

The staircase conducts safely to the bottom of the pre- 
cipice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. 

About two miles below the Falls, is a mineral spring:, 
said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime and 
magnesia. 

There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a 
Jcnile across; but the current is strong on this side, and 
the eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a 



BATTLE OP QUEENSTOWN. 51 

feoat moves more than double that distance in going 
over. The passage is not dangerous, although the water 
is much agitated by counter currents and changing whirl- 
pools : for the ferrymen are taught by their experience 
to manage the boat with care, and not only to take ad- 
vantage of the currents, but to avoid all the i-ough places, 
ripples and whirlpools. The banks here have an appear- 
ance very wild and striking. 

The rocks are a dark red sandstone, with thin strata 
of a more clayey character and a lighter colour, occur- 
ring every few feet. The river is 104 feet lower than at 
the foot of the falls. 

QuEENSTowN, On the Canada side of the river, is a 
small town, uninteresting, except so far as regards its 
natural situation, and some martial events of which it has 
been the theatre. 

The Battle of Queenstown. During the last war 
between the United States and Great Biitain, in 1812, 
while Gen. Van Rensselaer was stationed at Lewiston, 
he formed the bold design of taking Queenstown ; and, 
before daylight in the morning of October 13th, he em- 
barked his troops at the ferry, and passed over the river 
under cover of a battery. As the accessible points on the 
coast were strictly watched, and defended by batteries of 
some strength, the place selected for the attack was the 
lofty and precipitous bank just above, about 300 feet high. 
Two or three smail batteries had been erected on the 
brow, the remains of which are still visible ; but the land- 
ing was eifected, the heights were surmounted, and the 
Americans commenced a brisk action on the summit. 
Gen. Brock, vvho was at a distance, hearing the guns, 
hastened to the spot; but under a tree near the precipice 
was killed by a chance shot. The Americans remained 
in possession of the heights a few hours, but were then 
obliged to re-cross the river. 

The Momcment to General Brock was raised by 
the British government in the year 1824 ; and the remains 
of Gen. Brock were deposited there. Its height was 126 
feet ; and the view from the base is very fine and exten- 
sive, being 350 feet above the river. In clear weather 
the eye embraces not only the river below, and the towns 
of Lewiston and Queenstown, but those of Newark and 



52 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

Fort Niagara, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, Toronto 
harbour, Youngstown, part of the route of the Welland 
Canal, a vast level tract of country covered with an uni- 
form forest, and the horizon formed by the distant lake 
itself. 

It has been lately blown up with gunpowder by some 
unknown person. 

From Queenstown to Niagara Falls is seven miles, 
over a level, sandy road. 

The country between Niagara and Toronto, U. C. is con- 
sidered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best culti- 
vated part of the province. 

The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devil's Hole, 
cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to 
the bank. The rocks are about 300 feet above the wa- 
ter; and during the late war 50 Americans were driven 
off by a party of Indians, in the night, mistaking the 
trees for the verge of a wood. One was saved by falling 
into a cedar. 

A leisurely walk the whole distance, near the river, 
may please the admirer of nature; as the high and rocky- 
cliffs which form the banks on both sides present a con- 
tinued succession of striking scenes. 

Although the surface of the ground frequently indicates 
the passage of water in some long past period, the whole 
road is much elevated above the river, and owing to this 
circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not getting a 
sight of a cataract from a distance, as it remains conceal- 
ed by the banks, until he has approached very near. It 
frequently happens, also, that the roar of the cataract is 
not perceived before reaching the inn, for the mtervening 
bank intercepts the sound so much that the noise of the 
wheels is sometimes sufficient to drown it entirely. Yet, 
strange as it may appear, the inhabitants declare, that at 
the same time it may very probably be heard on the shore 
of Lake Ontario. 

THE FALLS OF mAGARA— From the British side. 

There are large Inns and Hotels on the Canadian side 
of the river, situated as near the falls as could be 
desired. One stands on what ought strictly to be called 



TABLE ROCK. 53 

the upper hank, for that elevation appears to have once 
formed the river's shore. This is the larger house; the 
galleries and windows in the rear command a fine view 
of the cataract, although not an entire one, and overlook 
the rapids and river for several miles above. 

Following a footpath through the pasture behind For- 
syth's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep brow 
of the second bank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara 
suddenly opens beneath him. 

Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the ca- 
taract, which commands a fine view of this magnificent 
scene. Indeed it is usually considered the finest \)o'\i\\, oi 
view. The height of the fall on this side is said to be 
174 feet perpendicular; and this height the vast sheet of 
foam preserves unbroken, quite round the Grand Crescent, 
a distance, it is estimated of 700 yards. The distance 
from Table Rock to Termination Rock is 1.53 feet Goat 
Island divides the cataract, and just beyond it stands an 
isolated rock. The fall op the American side is in 
breadth 900 feet, the height 160, and about two thirds 
the distance to the bottom the sheet is broken by project- 
ing rocks. A bridge built from the American side con- 
nects Goat Island and the main land, though invisible from 
this spot. 

It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this 
place as often as he can, and to view it from every neigh- 
bouring point; as every change of light exhibits it under 
a diflferent and interesting aspect. The rainbows are to 
be seen, from this side, only in the afternoon ; but at 
that time the clouds of mist, which are continually rismg 
from the gulf below, often present them in the utmost 
beauty. 

Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, m his Tra- 
vels, of the quantity of water which passes the cataract 
of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 furlongs wide, 
and on an average 25 feet deep. The current probably 
runs six miles an hour; but supposing it to be only 5 
miles, the quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is 
more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we suppose 
it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions ; and in a day 
would be 2400 millions of tons. The noise, it is said, is 



54 KAPIDS. 

sometimes-heard at Toronto, 50 miles.''TabIeRockis 6(S 
feel below the level of Lake Erie. 

The Rapids begin about half a nnile above the ca-' 
taract. The inhabitants nf the neighbourhood regard it 
as certain death to get once involved in them. Instances 
are oa record of persons being carried down by the 
stream ; but no one is known to have ever survived. In- 
deed, it is very rare that the bodies are found. Wild 
ducks, geese, &c. are frequently precipitated over the ca- 
taract, and generally reappear either dead or with their 
legs or wings broken. 

The most sublime scene is presented to the observer 
when he views the cataract from below; and there he 
may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. 
This scene is represented in the plate. To render the 
descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been formed a 
Jittle way from Table Rock, supported by a tall mast ; and 
the stranger descends without fear, because his view is 
confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path among 
the rocks winds alongat thefootof the precipice, although 
the heaps of loose stones which have fallen down, keep it 
at a considerable height above the water. A large rock 
lies on the very brink of the river, about 15 feet long and 
8 feet thick, which you may climb up by means of a lad- 
der, and enjoy the best central view of the falls anywhere 
to he found. This rock was formerly a part of the pro- 
jection above, and fell about 20 years ago, with a tremen- 
dous roar. 

In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, the 
path leads far under the excavated bank, which in one 
place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The 
vast column of water continually pouring over the preci- 
pice, produces violent whirls in the air; and the spray is 
driven out with such force, that no one can approach to 
the edge of the cataract, or even stand a few moments 
near it, without bemg drenched to the skin. It is also 
very difficult to breathe there, so that persons with weak 
lungs would act prudently to content themselves with a 
■distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under 
the cataract. The celebrated navigator captain Basil 
Hall, on a visit here in 1837, found that the air under 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 5& 

llie cataract is not|conipressed : but he considered the 
gusts of wind more violent than any gale he had ever 
witnessed. Those who are desirous of exploring this 
tremendous- cavern, should attend very carefully to their 
steps. 

In the summer of 1827, an old schooner called the 
Michigan, jwas towed by a row boat to the margin of the 
rapids, where she was abandoned to her fate. Thousands 
of persons had assembled to witness the descent. A 
number of wild animals had been inhumanly placed on her 
deck, confined, to pass the cataract with her. She pass- 
ed the first fall of the rapids in safety, but struck a rock 
at the second and lost her masts. There she remained 
an instant, until the current turned her round and bore 
her away. A bear here leaped overboard and swam to 
the shore. The vessel soon filled and sank, so that only 
her npper works were afterwards visible. She went over 
the cataract almost without being seen, and in a few mo- 
ments the basin was perceived all scattered with her frag- 
ments, which were very small A cat and a goose were 
the only animals found alive below. 

The Burning Spring. About half a mile above the 
falls, and within a few feet of the rapids in Niagara Ri- 
ver, is a remarkable Burning Spring. The water, which 
is warm, turbid, and surcharged with sulphurated hydro- 
gen gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in the 
ground, and is constantly in a stale of ebullition. The 
barrel is covered, and the gas escapes only through a cop- 
per tube. On bringing a candle within a little distance 
of it, the gas takes fire, and continues to burn with a 
bright flame until blown out. 

While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter may 
vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the village of 
Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vicinity; which, dur- 
ing the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of 
two sharp contests. 

The Battle of Chippewa. In July, 1814, the Bri- 
tish and American armies being near each other. General 
Ripley ordered General Scoit to make an advance on 
Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Captain Towson's di- 
6 



56 BATTLE OF CHIPPEWA. 

vision of artillery ; and the enemy's pickets were soon 
forced to retire acrosss the bridge. General Ripley came 
up in the afternoon and encamped with General Scott's 
advance. 

The stranger may be gratified by examining the field of 
these operations, by going to Chippewa Village, about 
two miles above Forsyth's. The American encampment 
of July 23d, is in the rear of a tavern near the road, about 
a mile beyond Chippewa. 

On the 5th, after some sharp shooting, the Indians 
were discovered almost in the rear of the American camp. 
At this moment General Porter arrived with his volunteers 
and Indians. General Brown immediately directed them 
to enter the woods and efifectually scour them. Gens. 
Brown, Scott, and Ripley were at the white house, in 
advance, reconnoitering. General Porter's corps had al- 
most debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when 
the whole British force had crossed the Chippewa Bridge, 
and General Scott advanced, and Gen. Ripley was in 
readiness to support. In a few minutes the British line 
was discovered formed and rapidly advancing — their right 
(the Royal Scots) upon the woods, and their left (the 
Prince Regent's) on the river, with the king's own for 
their reserve. Their object was to gain the bridge across 
the creek in front of the encampment, which would have 
compelled the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing 
a flank movement of the enemy through the woods on the 
left, directed General Ripley not to advance until he gave 
him orders. Meanwhile General Scott, under a most 
tremendous fire from the enemy's artillery, crossed the 
bridge, and formed his line. The British orders were to 
give one volley at a distance, and immediately charge. 
But such was the warmth of our musquetry that they 
could not withstand it. Ai this moment General Brown 
sent orders to General Ripley to make a movement 
through the woods upon the enemy's right flank. With 
the 2ist regiment he passed a ravme in his front, where 
the men had to wade up to their chins, and advanced as 
rapidly as possihle. But before he commenced filing from 
the woods into the open land under the enemy's batteries, 



BATTLE OF ERIDGEWATER. 57 

they had been completely broken by General Scott's bri- 
gade, and threw themselves across the Chippewa Bridge, 
which they broke down. 

Although the Americans were not able to cross the 
creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa 
very precipitately, and to retreat towards Queenstown. 

In this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded and 
missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. 

Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 
25th of the same month, the date of 

The Battle of Bridgewater, or Lundy's Lane. 
The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody action 
is aboiU a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an obscure 
road, called Lundy's Lane. Since their retreat from 
Chippewa, the enemy had received reinforcements of 
troops from Lord Wellington's army in Spain ; and on 
the 25th of July encamped on a hill, with the design of 
attackmg the American camp the next morning. At 6 
in the evening. General Brown ordered General Scott to 
advance and attack them, which was immediately done ; 
and in conjunction with General Ripley the attack was 
commenced in an hour. The British were much surpris- 
ed at seeing the approach of their enemy at this hour, 
not having discovered them until they left the woods 
and began to march across the open level fields seen 
from Forsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the 
left. 

The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of 
the American reginicnts, the day after the engagement, 
contains some inierei^ting particulars; 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wel- 
lington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two 
hours the two hostile lines were within twenty yards of 
each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an 
officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shcne 
bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glen- 
garian regiment caused the deception. They frequently 
charged, and were as often driven back. Our regiment, 
under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the British 
battery. We charged, and took every piece of the ene- 



58 WELLAND CANAL. 

my's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and 
cannon until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell back 
more than tvvo miles. This was done to secure our camp, 
which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. 
Our horses being most of them killed, and there being 
no ropes to the pieces, we got off but two or three. The 
men were so excessively fatigued they could not drag 
them. We lost one piece of cannon, which was too 
much advanced, every man being shot that had charge of 
it, but two Several of our caissons were blown up by 
their rockets, which did some injury, and deprived our 
cannon of ammunition. The lines were so near that can- 
non could not be used with advaniage." 

The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
878; and the Americans 860. 

The Welland canal begins near the mouth of Grand 
River, Upper Canada, empties itself into Lake Erie, 
about iO miles from Niagara. It will admit the largest 
vessels on the lakes, viz. those of 125 tons. Here is 

Port Maitland, which is capable of receiving a number 
of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for which the Canal 
is calculated. 

Grand River serves as a part of the navigable line for 
a distance of 128 chains ; and then Broad Creek for 70 
chains, The excavations there commence, and the Canal 
enters the 

Mainjieet Marsh. This is a tract of swampy land, 
elevated only about 8 feet above the level of Lake Erie, 
and extending from its shore to Welland or Chippewa 
River. The canal passes it by a thorough cut ten miles 
long and varying from 10 to 16 feet in depth, communi- 
cating with many ponds and pools. It is a fact well esta- 
blished by scientific surveyors, that only a narrow ledge 
of I'ocks occurs between the two lakes, and that, if this 
were removed, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, 
that a current of water might soon wear away a deep 
channel, drain off Lake Ei'ie, and cause a tremendous 
inundation. This barrier will be seen at the Mountain, 
Ridge., on the northern part of the Canal, where the de- 
scent is above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place 
the stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost 
uninterrupted level. The continuation of the Mountaia 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. S» 

Hidge forms the Falls of Niagara, and tae elevation 
of ground at Lockport, surmounted by the noble 
v/orks at that place. It runs for many miles, presenting 
towards the east an irregular line of precipice, with sali" 
ent and re-entering angles, like an immense fortification. 
Most of the streams which fall over it pour down the 
ravines thus formed. 

The Welldnd River, a very sluggish stream, is used 
for 10 miles, being entered by a lock of 8 feet lift, a tow- 
ing path being formed along its bank. 

On leaving Welland River, the boats pass a ravine QQ 
-chains in length, where the excavations are 8 or 10 feet 
•deep. 

The Deep Cut, We approach a part of the canal in 
which the greatest labour and expense were required. 
It extends If miles, and required the excavation of 1,477,^ 
700 cubic yards of earth. The excavation is to an aver" 
age depth of 4.5 feet. The ground is undulating, and the 
greatest depth is 56 feet. 

The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile 
and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by 100, which over- 
come nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie above On- 
tario. The canal winds along the face of the descent, 
being on the left and right, to give room for reservoirs 
between the locks, necessary for a convenient supply of 
water. None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. 
This is the only part of the route where rocks were to be 
excavated, and the amount of rock removed here was 
70,000 cubic yards. 

At the foot of this long and steep descent the canal en- 
ters a ravine, which extends 2^ miles through 12 locks, 
between high banks, to 

St. Catherine'' s. The descent from the top of the 
ridge to this place is 322 feet. To Lake Ontario from 
this place, 5 miles, there are 4 locks, 32 feet by 125, and 
one of 10 feet lift. The route runs chiefly along the val- 
ley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mile Creek. 

Port Dalhousie, the harbour of the Welland Canal on 
Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 
or 350 yards, nearly at the angle of storm, which i» ubout 
80 degrees west. 

6* 



§0 THE WESTEKN LAKES» 

The locks are of wood, but built on the most approved 
principles. The common dimensions are 100 feet long, 
22 wide and 8 deep ; and are calculated for vessels of 
from 100 to 125 tons burthen. 

Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, is a place of con- 
siderable size. The public buildings make little figure. 
The habour is very fine, protected by defensive works on 
Gibraltar Point. King's College is of recent institution^ 
and bears the style and privileges of a university. 

The traveller has now entered the great valley of the St. 
Lawrence, which embraces the five great lakes ; Supe- 
rior, Huron, Michigan, Erie and Ontario, as well as 
Cham plain and its beautiful tributary, Lake George. Its 
length is nearly 1800 miles, and area about half a million;, 
of which about 73,000 are water. Here were the scenes 
of the early French discoveries, and the Jesuit missions 
among the Indians, many of whom, with the idolatry of 
Home, were taught implacable hatred against the protest- 
ants of New-England and New-York. Here were the 
scenes of most of the battles fought between the French 
and English, and here may be seen traces of many of their 
fortresses. Here also were the scenes of many of the later 
military operations between the English and our own 
countrymen. The traveller will more highly enjoy a jour- 
ney in any part of this region, if he prepares himself by a 
recurrence to some book of history relating to it. 

The French excited and led the Indians against the 
English colonies, and committed numerous depredations, 
for many years: but, after many unsuccessful attempts^ 
were finally subdued in 1759, by Gen. Wolfe, In 1775 
the Americans took Montreal from the English, and some 
other paits of Lower Canada: but they were obliged to 
evacuate the country the next year. In the war of 1812, 
they made a similar attempt, but without success. 

The Western Lakes. Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 
miles wide, 500 feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 
218 feet above the elevation of tide water at Three Ri- 
vers, 270 miles below Cape Vincent. It is 330 feet below 
Lake Erie- 
Erie is 270 miles long, GO miles wide, 200 feet deep; 
and its surface is 565 feet above tide water at Albany. 



BATTLS Of ERIE, 61 

Harofl 13 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, 900 
feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 595 feet above the 
tide water. 

Michigan is 400 miles long, 50 wide, depth unknown; 
elevation the same as Huron. 

Gi-een Bay is about 105 miles long, 20 miles wide, 
depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Mi- 
chigan. 

Lake Superior is 459 miles long, 109 miles average 
width, 900 feet deep; and its surface 1048 feet above the 
tide water 

Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the foot 
of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the other lakes 
it will be observed, is lower than the surface of the ocean. 

Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reservoir 
of the mighty volume. After making a semicircle of five 
degrees to the south, accommodating and enriching one of 
the most fertile and interesting sections of the globe, it 
meets the tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, 
and 5000 from the extreme point of its estuary, on the At- 
lantic coast. 

The lakes are said to have a periodical rise once in 
twelve years. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. 

The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile be- 
low the Falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the day, 
without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current. 
The descent from the bank is so steep, that it has been 
necessary to build a staircase. 

To Bvjfalo, on the Canada side, 28^ miles, to Chip- 
pewa 2, Waterloo (Fort Erie) 16, (over the ferry to Black 
Rock, 25 cents each passenger.) to Buffalo 2.^. 

Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of Fort 
Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. — ' 
There was a strong wall, surrounded with entrenchments 
reaching to the lake. The remains of the British camp 
are also seen, and the trees are still wounded with shot. 

Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1B14, a 
severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort Erie, 
when a part of the American garrison, 1000 regulars and 
]000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British works, 
about 500 yards in front of their line. The British had 
two batteries on their left, which annoyed the fort, and 



Vs'ei'e about opening a third. Their camp was about twd 
miles distant, sheltered by a woods their works were gar" 
risoned with one third of their infantry, from 12 to 1500 
men, and a detachment of artillery. 

Gen. Porter with the volunteers, Col. Gibson with the 
riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 2l9t hght 
infantry, and a few dismounted dragoons, were sent from 
the extreme left of the American position, by a passage 
cut through the woods, towards the enemy's right ; and 
Gen. Miller M'as stationed in the ravine betv/een the fort 
and the enemy's batteries; while Gen. Ripley had are* 
serve under the bastions. 

A little before 3 P* M. the left columns commenced 
their attack on the enemy's right, and Gen. Miller at the 
same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and 3 of the 
batteries, broke their line^ and took their two block 
houses. Battery No. 1 was soon after deserted, the 
guns were spiked, and the magazine of No. 3 was blown 
up. Gen. Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed. 
The action lasted about an hour, which gave time for the 
Jfemaining two'thirds of the enemy's force to march from 
their camp and partake in it The Americans at length 
retired with prisoners, having succeeded in their object. 
The British suffered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drum* 
mond broke up his camp on the 21st, and retired to his 
intrenchments behind the Chippewa River. 

To Buffalo, on the American side, 30| railes. Tona* 
wanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 miles; Black 
Rock, 10 miles ; Buffalo, 2^ miles. 

To Fort George, 14 7mles. Queenstown, 7 miles ; 
Fort George, 7 miles. 

[The route from Niagara to Albany and the Spi'ings 
will be taken up after the route to Montreal. ]^^See p. 6G, 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 

392 miles. 

Those who have never travelled through the state of 
New-York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a 
route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Roches- 
ter, and take the line of the railroads or Erie Canal, the 
Springs, Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their way 



ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 63 

to Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take the more 
direct route, which is by the steamboats throug-h Lake 
Ontario, and is performed in about two days. The Ame- 
rican boats go from Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh, keep- 
ing towards the southern shore, and touching at the prin- 
cipal ports. The British boats make a few stops, but 
steer a course very near the middle of the lake, which is 
the boundary between the two countries : they are usually 
out of sight of land about twelve hours. 

From Niagaru to Montreal in the American steam- 
boats, 414 miles ; stagecoach to Levviston, 7 m. ; steam- 
boat on Lake Ontario to Fort Niagara, 7 ;* Genesee river, 
74; Great Sodus Bay, 35; Oswego, 28; Sackett's Har- 
bour, 40 ; Cape Vincent, 20 ; Morristown, 50 ; Ogdens- 
burgh, 12; Prescott, U. C, 1 ; Dickinson's Landing, 
30; stagecoach to Cornwall, 12; steamboat to Coteau 
du Lac, 41; stagecoach to the Cascades, 16; steamboat 
to Lachine, 24 ; stagecoach to Montreal, 9. 

Do. British steamboats, 449 miles; stagecoach to 
Lewiston, 7 ; steamboat to Fort George, 7 ; Toronto, 
U. C. 30; Port Hope, 65; Coburg, 7; Kingston, 105; 
Gananoque, 24 ; Brockviile, 32 ; Prescott, 12. See above. 

Port Genesee, 72 miles at the mouth of the Genesee 
River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here are a cus- 
tom house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe 
county. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a 
gently winding course about 125 miles in the state of 
New-York. It is navigable only four miles from its 
mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky, 
and perpendicular; and there is a fine fall (104 feet, in- 
cluding the rapids, &c.) about half a mile above. Stage- 
coaches are in waiting for Rochester, 6 miles. See 
Carthage, page 46. 

Great Sodus Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in 
succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are 
three islands, and Port Glascow is at the head of the 
bay, only 10.^ miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a 
good road to it. 

Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth 
of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with 10 feet 
water. Navigation on the river ends half a mile above, 

" The old French fort Frontenac, destroyed in 1758, 



64 FORT OSWXGO. 

except for boats, which go 12 miles farther. A very 
large button-wood tree, 35^ feet in circumference, is 
seen a mile from the village near the road. 

This place had a rapid growth. The Oswego Canal 
joins the Erie Canal at Salina, and will afford an interest- 
ing excursion either way. From the head of the falls to 
the village, it leads along the river's bank, preserving the 
elevated level almost to the brow of the hill over the 
lake, and then descends by loiiks. For the distance of a 
mile, the interval between the canal and the river affords 
the most advantageous situations for manufactories of vari- 
ous descriptions. Lake vessels can lie on one side of the 
manufactories and canal boats on the other; and Congress 
have appropriated money for protecting the harbour with 
piers. The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. 

Fort Oswego, so famous in the history of the Franc 
and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the 
river. The situation was very advantageous for the 
command of a large extent of country, as this river is 
the common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state. 
While this post was held alternately by the French and 
English, they could command a great part of the trade 
with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the 
country with which it communicated. 

Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the 
level of the water; and being overlooked by the emi- 
nence on which Fort Ontario was afterwards erected, 
was fit only for a defence in eai'ly times. A trading 
house was built here in 1722, and a fort five years after. 
This was extended in the beginning of the French war 
of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. On the follow- 
ing year. General Montcalm came from Canada, and 
besieged the fortresses with 3,000 troops, and two vessels. 
Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack ; and on 
the following day, August 14th, Fort Oswego surren- 
dered to the French, with a large quantity of stores 
brought at great expense through the wilderness, and 21 
cannon, 14 mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 
boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to 
hold the position, but immediately abandoned it. 

Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this 
route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Bur- 



KOUTE PKOM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, b-J 

goyne ; but he was repulsed at Fort Stanwix by Col. 
Willet, and obliged to return. 

In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the 
place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got possession 
of it, but evacuated it the next day. 

Sackett's Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the 
late war, it became an important naval station, and in= 
creased very rapidly It is 8 miles distant from the lake, 
on Hounslow Bay. The harbour is divided into two by a 
narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship build" 
ing. 

MoRRisTOWN. This is a small village, 10 miles from 
Ogdensburgh. The river is a little more than a mile in 
breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There 
is a number of rocky islands in the St. Lawrence, and 
the gentle slope of the land on the New-York shore, adds 
a great degree of beauty to the scene. 

General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. 

Ogdensburgh, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the 
end of the navigation, and here the steamboat stops. The 
%illage is pretty, contains some large stores, and carries 
on considerable business. On the other side of the river 
is Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The 
ruins of Fort Oswegatchie, or Fort Presentation, may still 
be traced. It was not very large, and contained only a 
bomb-proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. 

The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of 
the navigation, presenting themselves in every variety 
of forms, though never rising to any great elevation.— 
They might be compared with the islands of Lake 
George. 

Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. 
Lawrence begin. , A number of mills will be seen at diffe- 
rent places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of 
some consequence, which was taken by General Amherst 
on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. 

St. Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this 
name have a reservation of land here 11 miles by 3. 

Lachine, 53 m. (See Index,) 

Montrjal, 9 m. (See do.) 



66 BUFFALO. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Railroad to Buffalo or to Lockport. 

Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the mar- 
gin of Niagara River, a little way from its head, and op- 
posite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It 
was burnt by the British during the war in 18 14, but has 
since been rebuilt and increased lo a much greater size. 
Black Rock long disputed with Buffalo the privilege of 
having the Basin of the Canal built in her harbour, and at 
last obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was 
built to secure the boats and vessels from the waves of 
the lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of 
the canal to Genesee River. But the swiftness of the 
current in the river, and the hea()ing up of the ice on the 
shore, proved great obstacles to the navigation. 

BUFFALO— 3 miles from Black Rock. 

Inns. The Eagle Tavern, Buffalo House, American 
and City Hotels. 

The situation of this town is remarkably convenient 
and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, 
rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The 
principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking 
out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented 
with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome 
dwelling houses, together with several public buildings, 
all erected since the burning of the village by the British 
in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets, 
which are fast increasing every year. In April, 1814, 
only one house was standing in the village, that of a wi- 
dow in the upper part of the street. A walk has also 
been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the lake. 
This is called the Terrace, and affords a charming view 
upon the lake, the harbour, and the canal, to Black 
Rock. 

The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature 
for the junction of the two kinds of navigation v/hich are 



WESTERN ROUTES. _ 67 

here brought together : the entrance from the lake being 
sheltered by the point on which the light house is erected, 
and the two small rivers which here unite their waters^ 
aifordiBg every convenience for landing and reshipping 
goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are 
connected by a natural channel, which serves the purposes 
of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ; and as 
the canal to Black Rock commences close by it, the in- 
land tran?portation beijins without more ado. Fine 
steamboats are constantly plyinsron the lake. 

The water of the creek is brought in\o the village from 
above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long. 

The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of the 
Lake. The first part of it is through a low, sandy level, 
■■<vhere the excavations were much impeded by the water 
which soaked through in great abundance. About half 
a mile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed of old 
half-df!cayed trees, v^'hich was dug into to the depth of 
six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many branches 
and logs were discovered, which preserved all the grain 
of the wood ; but the greaier part was a black mass of 
matter, which, im being dried, burned with great readi- 
ness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and 
some of the logs appeared to have been washed and rolled, 
by the water of the lake before they were buried. 

VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE, AND WESTERN 
ROUTES. 

At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those who' 
are disposed to travel still farther westward. There is 
little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which 
would reward a common traveller for the tedium of a long 
ride over a country generally level, or for the inconveni- 
ences he would experience from the want of public ac- 
cominodations, and even the frequent absence of settle- 
ments. 

Western Routes. Two steamboats start daily for De- 
troit, Michigan, 311 miles, and arrive in about 36 hours,, 
passing Cattaraugus, 20, Dunkirk 13, Portland, 18, Bur- 
gett's Point, 18, Erie, 17, Ashtabula, Ohio, 39, Fairport^ 
7 



t>B WESTBRM ROUTES. 

32, Cleaveland, 30. (Here begins the Ohio and Erie 
Canal *) Sandusky 54, ("unningham's Island, 12, North 
Bass Islands, 10, Middle Sister Island, 10, Amhersiburgh, 
Upper Canada, 20, to Detroit. 18. (For the routes west 
from Detroit, see beyond.) 

From Detroit to Chicago. Railroad to Ypsilanti, 33 * 
miles, and either steamboat on Lake Michigan to St. Jo- 
seph's, 169, (or by land through Jonesville, 35, Cold- 
water, 20, Sturges' Prairie, 25, MottviUe 17, St. Jo- 
seph's, 40 ) 

Or, by steamboat on Lake Huron, River St. Clair, 40, 
Palmer, 17, Fort Gratiot, 14, White Rock, 40, Thunder 
Island, 70, Middle Island, 25, Presque Isle, 65, Macki- 
uaw, 5S, Isle Brule, 75, Fort Howard, 100, Milwaukie, 
310, Chicago, 90. 

Or, by steamboat, railroad and stage coaches, by steam- 
boat to Toledo, 71, railroad to Adrian, 33, stagecoach to 
Tecumseh, 10. Niles, 100, Michigan city, Indiana, 40, 
steamboat to Chicago, Illinois, 55. 

The following are the stopping places on the passage 
to Detroit, with their distances ; and steamboats run al- 
most every day. (See Ohio Ca.nal, Index.) 

From Buffalo to Erie, 90 miles, Erie to Grand River, 
75, Grand River to Cleaveland, 30, Cleaveland to San- 
dusky, 60, Sandusky to Detroit, 75, total 330. 

* The Ohio and Erie Canal, 307 miles Ion?, extends to Ports- 
mouth. It has the breaflth and depth of the New-York Erie Ca- 
nal, and 1185 lockage. From Cleaveland it passes 37 miles along 
Cuyahoga river, across Portage summit, down Tuscarawas river 
up Tomoka creek, up Licking river down the Sciota through Cir- 
cleville, nearChillicothe to tho Ohio to Porlsmouth. 

Distances. Cleaveland to Cuyahoga Aqueduct 22 miles. Old 
Portage, 12, New Portage, 9. Clinton, 11, Bethlehem, 17, Bolivar, 
8, Dover. 10, New Comer's Town, 26, Coshocton, 17, Irville, 26, 
Newark, 13, Hebron. 10, Licking Summit, 5, Lancaster, 11. (Here 
if a branch to Columbus, 18,) Bloomfield, 8, Circleville, 9, ChiUi- 
cothe,25, Piketon, 23, Lucasvilie. 14. Portsmouth, 13. 

Steamboat Route down the Ohio and Mississippi to New-Or- 
Jeans. Portsmouth to V^unceimigh, Kentucky, 20, Manchester, 
Ohio, 16, Muysville, Kentucky, 11, Charleston, Ky, 4, Ripley, 
Ohio, 6, Augusta, Ky. 8,Neville,0hio, 7, Moscow,7, Port Pleasant, 
4, N. Richmond, 7,;Columbia, 15, Fulton, 6, Cincinnati, 2, Louis- 
Tille, Kentucky, 143, Misjissippi River, 366, New-Orleans, 1284. 



ROUTES FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANT. 69 

The United States government have improved several 
of these harbours. 

Ancient Fortifications. — On BufFalo Creek, and to- 
wards Genesee River also, are several large and interest- 
ing remnants of ancient fortifications: but as they lie off 
the road, few travellers will visit them. They appear to 
form part of a great chain of defensive works, extending 
from the eastern part of Lake Ontario, along that Lake and 
Erie, down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to Mexico. 
See the books of Mr. Delafield and Mr. Atwater, who 
have published some very interesting details, drawings, 
&c, connected with them. A line of old forts extends from 
Cataraugns Creek, 50 miles, along the shore of Lake Erie, 
to the line of Pennsylvania. They are on the borders of 
creeks and old bays, although now from 2 to 5 miles dis- 
tant from the Lake, which is supposed to have retired that 
distance since they were built. Another similar line is 
said to exist in the rear of them, on another parallel eleva- 
tion. 

Seneca Castle. — The Seneca nation possess a large 
and valuable ti-act of land adjoining Buffalo on the east, 
and they have two villages 3 and 5 miles on the road. 
The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confederacy 
of the Five Nations, and have always held a conspicuous 
rank in their history. They were formerly considered the 
most n.umerous and powerful tribe, and preserved this su- 
periority until the fatal defeat they received from General 
Schuyler, in 177 8, since which they have made a less con- 
spicuous figure. 

Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua. 

Batavia, 40 miles from BufFalo, is a very handsome vil- 
lage, and contains the residence of the former Agents of 
the Holland Land Company, as well as the county build- 
ings. It is 878 feet above tide. The summit of the rail- 
road route between BufFalo and Albany, is just west of this 
place, 912 feet. ' 

Leroy, 10 miles. 

The Wadsworth Farm, at Geneseo, contains about 
4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land on 
the banks of Genesee river. 



70 BURNING SPRINGS. 

The Genesee meadows are the wheat region of the state, 
60 miles long', and 1 or 2 miles wide, and composed of 
limestone and sand. They were formerly the residence of 
a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and when 
Gen. Sullivan reached this place in his march through the 
country, he found and burnt a village of 120 log houses, 
on the second bank, which had been deserted at his ap- 
proach. 

The remains of a Mammoth were dug up about half a 
mile from the village of G;ineseo in 1825. There were 8 
teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a thigh bone 3 feet long, 
the lower bone of the leg, 3 feet 6 inches, &c. They lay 
between strata of vegetable mould and sand. 

West Bloomfield, beyond the Genesee River, is one 
of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and pre- 
sents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and 
yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives remarkably well 
in all this western country. The prevailing winds are south 
west, and the climate mild and uniform. Wheat some- 
times yields 52 bushels to the acre. 

East Bloomfield is the next village. 

Canandatgua. This is one of the finest western towns, 
and its principal street runs along the ridge of a command- 
ing hill, rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. 
It is wide, and contains an Academy, and many handsome 
houses. The road in passing Canandaigua Lake, com- 
mands a finer view than on any of the other lakes it passes, 
•except Skeneateles. The banks are high and variegated, 
and at the distance of two or three miles, rise to an imposing 
height, and add a great degree of beauty to the scene. A 
number of gentlemen's seats are seen along the western 
bank ; and a little way oif in the lake on the same side, is 
a small rocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried all 
their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sullivan 
appeared against them. 

Railroad cars go to Rochester andto Batavia every day. 

Burning Springs. Springs of water, charged with 
inflammable gas, are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, 
and Canandaigua. 

The gas from the former rises through fissures of the 
filate, from both the margin and the bed of the brook. 

Their places are known by little hillocks of a few feet 



ROUTS FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANT. 71 

ic fliamcter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark bitu- 
minous mould, through which it finds its way to the sur* 
face, in one or more currents. These currents of gas may 
be set on fire, and will burn with a steady flame. In win- 
ter they form openings through the snow, and being set 
on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting phenomenon of a 
steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. 
In very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed 
round these currents of gas, (probably from the freezing^ 
of the water contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the 
height of two or three feet, the gas issuing from their 
tops ; the whole when lighted in a still evening, present- 
ing an appearance even more beautiful than the former. 

From a pit which was sunk in one of the hillocks, the gaa 
was conducted through bored, logs, to the kitchen of a 
dwelling. The novelty of the spectacle attracted a con- 
course of visiters, so great that the proprietors found it 
expedient to convert their dwelling into a public inn. 

The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passes over 
a singular tract of country. I'he ground gradually rises 
by large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the dis- 
tance, and descends in the same manner on the other side 
to Seneca Lake. They appear to have been formed by 
those strong currents of water of which geologists speak, 
which at some ancient period of time have evidently 
passed over many tracts of country in different parts of 
the world. The ridges and channels thus formed here 
stretch north and south, frequently to a considerable dis- 
tance, corresponding both in form and direction with the 
numerous lakes which are found in this part of the state. 
Several ancient fonifications have been traced here.— « 
From the middle ridge the view is extensive, but the sur- 
rounding country is of too uniform a surface to present 
any remarkakle variety of scenery. 

Geneva. This town occupies a charming situation 
at the foot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its 
western bank, which I'ises to a considerable elevation 
above the surface, and affords room for a broad and level 
street. The buildings in this village ai'e remarkably neat 
and handsome, and it has a college. 

Seneca Lake is o5 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. 
Its depth 15 unusuallv great, aiid th» water clear and \»erv 

7« 



r2 AtTBtTRN. 

Cold, to which is attributed the scarcity of fish. There is 
la remarkable phenomenon long observed by those who 
reside nenrit, which has never been satisfacrorily account- 
ed for. The water has a regular rise and fall every seven 
years. This is perceptible along the shore, but more prac- 
tically established in the experience of the boatmen. 

Cayuga Lake is 40 miles in length, and generally 
about two in breadth. A fine bridge is built across it near 
the northern end, where it is a mile wide. 

A little before arriving at the head of the lake, in a steam- 
boat, a beautiful Waterfall is seen on the left hand, where 
a stream flows over a very high precipice into a deep 
glen, and forces its way along, turning several valuable 
mills in its course. The landing place is about three 
miles from the village of Ithaca, 

The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here 
centre the roads to Catskill, Newburgh and Neto-York. 
The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, 
the second passes the Great Bend of the Delaware, and 
the third furnishes daily the shortest route to New-York. 

The Cascade. This beautiful and romantic scene is 
about three miles from the village. 

AiTBURM is another beautiful village, ard merits the 
name it has borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. 
It is unfortunately placed at some distance from Oswego 
Lake, and therefore is deprived of the picturesque charac- 
ter which it might have enjoyed. There is a Presbyte- 
rian Theological Seminary in Auburn, and several hand- 
some public buildings in this place, but the most important 
is the 

State Prison. This institution, having been managed 
by Mr. Lynds, and the first established on his system so 
excellent, so celebrated, and with remarkable success, 
merits particular notice. Many of the new prisons in the 
United States are built after this general plan, which is 
also much approved in Europe. 

" The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost 
about $300,000. It was constructed upon the plan of a 
hollow square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, 
being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 feet 
in height. 

" The new one, designed to contain 400 cells, covers only 
206 by 46 fefet of ground. There are five stories of c&lls, 



tlOUTE PROJI NIAGARA. TO ALBANY. 73 

^Hch containing eighty in two parallel lines, divided in the 
iniddle by a wall two feet thick. The walls between the 
cells are one foot thick. The cells are seven feet long, 
seven high, and three and a half wide, intended to receive 
only one convict in each. Each cell has a ventilator ex- 
tending to the roof, and is so constructed in front, that the 
prisoners can neither converse or make signs to each 
other. The area around the cells is 10 feet wide and 
open to the roof, which covers the galleries of the several 
stories. Besides the moral benefit arising from keeping 
the prisoners separate, it unites that of economy and secu- 
rity. From the construction of the prison, five small 
stoves, six large and twelve small lamps, all out of reach 
of the convicts, afford heat and light to 555 cells ; and one 
centinel is sufficient to 400 prisoners." 

Ancient Fortifications. There are some remains of 
ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well 
as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, and 
Pompey, 

From Auburn to Syracuse. Bt/ the Canal, BAmiles. 
{Stagecoach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles; Jordan Village, 
in Camillus township, 6 ; Canton, (half-way village be- 
tween Buffalo and Albany, 179 miles from the former, 
and 183 from the latter,) 6 ; Geddes Village, (with salt 
works,) 12; Syracuse, 2. 

By the Road, 28 miles. Skeneateles, 8 ; Marcellus, 
6 ; Onondaga, 10 ; Syracuse, 4. 

Syhacuse. For a description of this place, as w^ell as 
of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories, see 
page 42, &c. About 3,000,000 bushels of salt made yearly. 

From Syracuse to Utica. Bt/ the Canal, 61 miles. 
Manlius Landing,* 9 miles; Chitteningo Creek, 8 ; Canas- 
tota Village and basin, 8 ; Oneida Creek, 5 ; Wood Creek, 
13; Rome, 3 ; Oriskany Village, 8; VVhitesborough, 3; 
Utica, 4. 

By the Road. 48 miles Derne, 3 miles; Manlluf;, 3; 
Sullivan, 9 ; Vernon, 11; Westmoreland, 6 ; New Hart- 
ford, 7 ; Utica, 4. 

For Utica, Hamilton, College, and Trenton Falls, 
see page 33. 

* About 20 yards from the cannl, Gypsum (plaster of Paris) Is 
obtained ia masses of from 1 to 100 tons. 



74 9TILLWAT2K, 

From Uiica to Schenectady, hy the Canal 1Q^ miUs', 
Itock, No. 53, (end of the long level, which begins west" 
ward at Salina, and extends to this Y>lace, 69^ miles, with- 
out a lock,) 9 miles; Bridge over the Mohawk, and Her- 
kimer Village, 5 ; Little Falls, 8 ; Fall Hill, a mountain 
on the right, 518 feet higher than the canal, 712 above 
high water in the Hudson River, and about 145 above 
Lake Erie, 1 ; Old Mohawk Castle, 5 ; Fort Plain, 9\ ; 
Canajoharie, 4 ; a railway has been proposed to run hence 
to Catskill, 60; Anthony's Nose, 5 ; (this scene is repre- 
sented in the plate from this side— the bluff on the right 
is Anthony's Nose, on the top of which a remarkable 
cavern opens, extending further dovi'n than it has ever 
been explored) ; Schoharie Creek, 11; Amsterdam Vil- 
lage, (across the river,) 5; Flint Hill, 6 ; Rotterdam Flats, 
8 ; Schenectady, 3. 

Road to Albany, 15| miles. 

ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS, 

Waterford is situated on the west side of the Hudson,, 
across which is a bridge. Lansingburgh stands opposite^ 
and is a place of considerable size. The streets of Water- 
ford are wide, regular, and handsomely built. Some of 
the private houses are remarkable for their neatness. 
There are numerous rocky islands with precipitous sides, 
at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are seen at a 
little distance below the bridge. To these, the American 
army, under Gen. Schuyler, retreated in 1777, before Gen. 
Burgoyne, and befoi'e the battle of Saratoga. The boats 
on the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view 
of them, through guard locks, and are poled across, the 
curi'ent being stopped by a dam. Waterford is 211 miles 
from Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga, by railroad. 

Stillwater is 11^ miles above Wateribid ; and 4 
miles beyond that place is SmiUi's Tavern, where those 
will stop who visit the battle ground, at Buhmis's 
Heights. 

Although the great crowd of travellers on this road 
will take the road to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they 
will tiud fQw objects of any interest, it may be proper to 



ROIJTE TO THE SPRINGS. 75 

introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition of 
Oen. Burgoyne, and the battle of Behmis's Heigtits, often 
known by the name of the battle of Saratoga, as we are 
within a few miles of the field. 

Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and 
quietness of the Hudson. 

The first battle within this region, of which history 
gives any account, was fought between the French and. 
the Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of 
Canada, when the latter first learned the terrible effect of 
gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach of civil- 
ization. In the numerous expeditions which at sub- 
sequent periods were undertaken by tlie British against 
Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not un- 
frequently m the retreat. The revolution and the last 
war with England, produced scenes which will be touched 
upon in their places. 

The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the 
revolution ; and the first scene that of the battle of Sa- 
ratoga, or Behmis's Heights, towards which we are fast 
approaching. 

" I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that 
Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy my- 
self with recollecting, that to his invin3ible gallantry, 
and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, 
my country was, under God, indebted in a prime degree, 
for her independence, and all its consequent blessings. I 
should think that an American, peculiarly an inhabitant 
of New-England or New- York, little to be envied, whose 
patriotism did not gain force upon the heights of Still- 
water, or the plains of Saratoga. These scenes I have 
examined: the former with solemnity and awe, the latter 
with ardour and admiration, and both with enthusiasra 
and rapture. Here I have remembered ; and here it was 
impossible not to remember, that on this very spot a con- 
troversy was decided upon which hung the liberty and 
happiness of a nation destined one day to fill a continent ; 
and of its descendants, who will probably hereafter out= 
number the inhabitants of Europe." 



76 burgotne's expedition. 

Borgoyne's Expedition. General Burgoyne* was 
appointed Governor of Canada in 1777, lo succeed Sir 

* General Burgoyne — (From an English Work.) — It is curiousj 
that a man of such celebrity as a writer, a senator, and an offi- 
cer, as the late Lieut John Burgoyne, should be found amonfj the 
number of those of wliose youtliful days no memorial has been 
preserved. Neither the lime, place, nor circumstances of his birth 
are known. Even his parentage is doubtful. He is said, buiupou 
■what autliority it does not appear, to have been a natural son of 
that Lord Bingly,who died at an advanced aye in 1774. That he 
had the advantuge of a liberal education and early intercourse 
with poli.shed sociaty, is sufficiently evident from his writings ; and 
it is probable that he was early devoted to the profession of arms, 
for on the 10th of May, 1759, lie was raised to the rank of Lieut- 
Colonel, and in August of the ensuing year, he was appointed 
Lieut. Col. Commsndant of ihe 16th Light Dragoons. His after 
services at different periods, in Spain, Portugal, and America, are 
all well known, especially the unfortunate termination of his mi- 
litary career at Saratoga, which, though it tarnished not his ho- 
nour, cast a shade over his brow, ever afterward conspicuous to the 
physidgoomical eye. He made, on certain occasions, no ordinary 
figure in Parliament. Ho moved in the first circles, and married 
Lady Charlotte Stanley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and 
yet we know not who and what he originally was. He was the 
author of four successful dramas : the Maid of the Oak, the Lord 
of the Manor, Richard CcEur de Lion, and the comedy of the 
Heiress; and yet the curiosity of his biographer, even in this 
aiiscdote-dealing and memoir-sifting age, cannot trace his origiis 
or the scenes of his education. The tale of the Lord of the Ma- 
nor Sf-enis, in some degree, to have been disguised in the modifica- 
ijoii of the character and circunistauces by the incident of his own 
juatriinouial connexion : for his was a clandestine and unauthoriz- 
ed marriage, at a time when he held only asulialtern's commission 
in the army ; and is said to have excited at first the resentment of 
the lady's father to such a degree, tliat he declared his resolutiors 
siever to admit the offenders into his presence, though in process 
of time, the anger of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was effect- 
ed, and was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It is 
probable, also, that the memory of his lady, v,'ho died in 1776, as 
Kensington Palace, during his absence in America, is embalmed 
by the affectionate regrets of the General, in that beautiful air of 
his composition : 

" Encompassed in an angel's frame, 

An angel's virtues lay ; 
Too soon did heaven assert the claim. 

And call its own away. 

My Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, 

Must never more return • 
What now shall fill these widow'd arms : 

Ah me! wy Anna's nraL" 



EOUTS TO THE SPRINGS. 77 

Guy Carlton. He arrived at Quebec in May, and reach- 
ed Crown Point, June 20th. General Phillips was sent 
to Ticonderoga with the British right wing; and the out- 
posts and the fort were successively abandoned by the 
Americans. The news of the evacuation of this place 
was a most disheartening piece of intelligence to the 
country. 

During his delay, General Schuyler obstructed the 
channel of Wood Creek, removed every thing valuable 
from the country, and took the stores from Fort George 
to Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and caihng 
for the militia of the neighbouring states, both which 
were supplied. General Arnold and Colonel Morgan 
joined him with a body of riflemen, and General Lincoln 
with the New-England militia; and he fell back to Sara- 
toga, to Stillwater, and finally to the islands at the mouth 
of the Mohawk. 

Battle of Bennington. Being in want of provi- 
sions, General Burgoyne had despatched Lt. Col. Baum 
with his Hessians, to seize the public stores at Benning- 
ton. He was supported by Lt. Col. Brechman, who 
stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Gen. Stark with the New- 
Hampshire troops, joined by Col. Warner, attacked Col. 
Baum at the Wallomsack River, where they were en- 
camped, July 16th, (1777,) and in two hours, forced their 
works, and completely defeated them. Colonel Warner 
began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded him mor- 
tally, took him prisoner, and put his troops to flight. 

226 of the British troops were killed at the battle of 
Bennington, or rather the battle of Hoosac, as it was 
fought in that town. 700 soldiers were taken prisoners, 
and 36 officers. 

Gen. Gates now received the command of the American 
troops, which had been greatly re-enforced ; and took a 
position on Behmis's Heights, a ridge of elevated ground, 
beginning on the left, about a quarter of a mile from the ri- 
ver, and stretching off towards the northwest, which of- 
fered great advantages for the defence of the road. 

Gen. Gates' Camp was about half a mile from the road 
on the left, and his quarters were in a house which was yet 
standing when the author visited thf spot. A bj-e-road 



78 EATTLtt OF SARATOGA. 

leads to the place, and the old intrenchments, and after-a- 
wards you may proceed along the heights, which were oc- 
cupied by the American troops. By making a considerable 
circuit, by a road in some places rough, you may ride over 
the encampment and the scenes of the two battles, and 
then come back to the river at Smith's little tavern, 3 
miles above this place, or cross over to the Springs. The 
space between the river and the hill was crossed by a deep 
intrenchment defended with artillery, and almost impracti- 
cable. 

The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile long, 
were furnished with a breast work of logs, (the hills being 
almost entirely a forest,) and the left terminated opposite 
the enemy's right. From the left almost to the centre, the 
ground is level, and was partly cleared, yet much encum- 
bered with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of 
the centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. 
The British Lines, stretched from a hill opposite the 
American left, in a straight line across the meadow to the 
Hudson River. The enemy moved forward, and encamp- 
ed in two lines, about two miles from Gen. Gates ; his left 
on the river, and his right extending at right angles to it, 
across the low grounds about six hundred yards, to the 
lofty heights occupied by his elite, having a creek or gul- 
ley in his front, mnde by a rivulet which issued from a 
great ravine, formed by the hills, which ran in a direction 
nearly parallel to the river, until within half a mile of the 
American camp. 

The Northern or Champlain canal, and the coach road, 
now cross the ground occupied by the American right, and 
soon afterwards that occupied by the British lines. 

The Battle Ground is on an elevated plain, about 
two miles above General Gates' camp, and the same dis- 
tance west from Smith's tavern. It may be t<iken in the 
way from the Springs, but it is better to go first to Smith's 
for a guide, and to take or prepare for refreshment. From 
Smith's to the battle ijround, the road is quite romantic, 
along the south side of Cumminskill, with a steep bank on 
each side for a part of the distance. Here Burgoyne 
marched up to extend his right, and turn the American left. 
The open grouud at the end is the field of battle. 



».0*;rE 10 THE SPillKGS. }9 

the most severe fighting in the first battle, was at a lit* 
tie knoll, in a field on the south. 

Battle of Sept. 19th.— In the morning-, it was re* 
ported by Col. Colburn, who was watching the enemy, that 
they were beginning to ascend the hill towards the Ameri'- 
tjan left. Gen. Gates sent Col. Morgan to oppose them, 
■and the firing began about noon. Ihe action extended, 
^and in three hours was general, and continued without in* 
terruption till dark. The American troops engaged 
amounted to 3OO0 ^ the British to 35G0. The following 
account is from General Wilkinson. 

" This battle was perfectly accidental; Burgoj'ne'smove* 
ment being merply to take ground on the heights in front 
of the great ravine, and on our side, the defences of out 
"camp being not half completed, and re-enforcements daily 
arriving, it was net General Gates' policy to court an ac* 
tion. The misconception of the adverse chiefs put them 
•on the defensive, and confined them to the ground they 
•casually occupied at the beginning of the action, and pre* 
vented a single mancenvre, during one of the longest, 
warmest, and most obstinate battles fought in America. 
Gen. Gates believed that his antagonist intended to attack 
Mm, and circumstances appeared to justify the like con* 
elusion on the part of Burgoyne ; and as the thickness and 
■depth of the intervening wood concealed the position and 
movements of either army from its adversary, sound cau- 
tion obliged the respective commanders to guard every as* 
■sailable point; thus the flower of the British army, the 
grenadiers and light infantry, one thousand five hundred 
strong, were posted on an eminence to cover its right, and 
stood by their arrns, inactive spectators ef the conflict, nn»- 
til near sunset^* while Gen. Gates was obliged to keep his 
right wing on post, to prevent the enemy from forcing that 
flank, by the plain bordering on the river. Had either of 
the generals been properly apprised of the dispositions of 
his antagonist, a serious blow might have been struck on 
our left, or the enemy's right; but although nothing is more 
common, it is as illiberal as it is unjust, to determine the 
merits of military operations by events exclusively. It was 
not without experience that the Romans erected temple* 
to Fortune. Later times might afford motives for edificesj, 
in which Genius or Wisdom would have no votaries*" 



80 BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 

Battle of October Bth. General Wilkinson gives the 
following description of this battle : — 

" The enemy were formed across a new cultivated field, 
their grenadiers with several field pieces on the left, bor-* 
daring on a wood, and a small ravine formed by the rivu- 
let before alluded to ; their light infantry on the right, 
covered by a worm fence at the foot of the hill before 
mentioned, thickly covered with wood ; their centre com- 
posed of British and Gei'man battalions. Col. Morgan, 
with his usual sagacity, proposed to make a circuit with 
his corps by our left, and under cover of the wood to gain 
the height on the right of the enemy, and from thence 
commence his attack, so soon as our fire should be opened 
against their left ; the plan was the best which could be 
devised, and no doubt contributed essentially to the 
prompt and decisive victory we gained." 

" This proposition was approved by the General, and it 
■was concerted that time should be allowed the Colonel to 
make the proposed circuit, and gain his station on the 
enemy's right before the attack should be made on their 
left: Poor's brigade was ordered for this service, and the 
attack was commenced in due season on the flank and 
front of the British grenadiers, by the New-Hampshire 
and New-York troops. True to his purpose, Morgan, at 
this critical moment, poured down like a torrent from the 
hill, and attacked the right of the enemy in front and flank. 
Dearborn, at the moment when the enemy's light infantry 
were attempting to change front, pressed forward with 
ardour, and delivered a close fire ; then leaped the fence, 
shouted, charged, and gallantly forced them to retire in 
disorder ; yet headed by that intrepid soldier the Earl of 
Balcarras, they were immediately rallied, and re-formed 
behind a fence in rear of their first position ; but being 
now attacked with great audacity in front and flanks by 
superior numbers, resistance became vain, and the whole 
line, commanded by Burgoyne in person, gave way, and 
made a precipitate and disorderly retreat to his camp, 
leaving 2 twelve, and 6 six pounders" on the field, with 
the loss of more than 400 oflficers and men, killed, wound- 
ed, and captured, and, among them, the flower of his offi- 
cers, viz : — Brigadier General Frazer, Major Ackland, 
commanding the grenadiers, Sir Francis Clark, his first 



JVorth 




ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 81 

s,id-de-camp, Major Williams, commanding officer of the 
artillery, Captain Money; deputy quartermaster general, 
and many others.* The ground which had been occupied 
by the British grenadiers presented a scene of complicated 
horror and exultation. In the square space of twelve or 
fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in the agonies of 
death, and three officers propt up against stumps of trees, 
two of them mortally wounded, bleeding, and almost 
speechless. 

** With the troops I pursued the hard pressed flying ene- 
my, passing over killed and wounded until I heard one 
exclaim, "protect me. Sir, against this boy." Turning 
my eyes, it was my fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad 
thirteen or fourteen years old, in the act of taking aim at 
a wounded officer who lay in the angle of a worm fence. 
Inquiring his rank, he answered, "I had the honour to 
command the grenadiers;" of course, I knew him to be 
Major Ackland, who had been brought from the field to 
this place, on the back of a captain Shrimpton of his own 
corps, under a heas y fire, and was here deposited, to save 
the lives of both." 

Quarters of General Burgoyne. The house now 
stands by the road side, but the place where it then was 
is a spot at the foot of the hill, and about 200 yards from 
the river. The cellar is still to be seen, in a field near an 
apple tree, a little north of the I'oad that crosses the 
canal. Willard's mountain is an eminence a few miles 
off, on the opposite side of the river. During the last 
battle, the Americans had a few cannon on the rising 
ground above the eastern shore, a quarter of a mile above 
Smith's, and thence proceeded the shot of which the Ba- 
roness Reidesel speaks. Several ladies of distinction 
were its inmates at the time when the British troops 
were here, being the wives of some of its principal offi- 
cers. Among these were the Baroness Reidesel, with 
her children, wife of General Reidesel, and Lady Har- 
riet Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, commander of the 
British Grenadiers. The former published an account of 

* General Frazer was shot in the meadow, near the fence by 
the road side, just south of the blacksmith's shop. The spot is 
jnarked by the third tree in a row of poplars. 



S2 BALL3T05 SPRINGS. 

what she saw during this trying and dangerous co-ntesJi, 
after her return to Europe. The house was converted 
into an hospital during the second battle, and Gen. Fra- 
zer died on the 8th of October in what is now the bar 
room. His grave is on the hill. 

Ballston Springs. This village is situated in a little 
valley surrounded by hills, which have the aspect of hash- 
ing once been the bed of a small lake. The high ground 
enclosing it, gives an air of seclusion to the place, at the 
same time that it furnishes a variety of pleasant scenery. 
The Kayderosseros brook flows through the valley, in 
some places overhung by forest tre<^s. Railroads lead 
to Saratoga Springs, Troy and Schenectady. 

The Sans Souci Hotel is the principal house in the 
place. It has a fine piazza opening upon the streets, 
and presents a front of 156 feet long, with a win^ extend- 
ing back from each end 150 feet, all of them three 
stories high, and containing in all lodging for nearly 150 
persons. 

The variety of scenery in the neighbourhood is sufficient 
to attract many of those who resort to this place of health 
and pleasure. 

The Washington Spring was opened in 1827, by 
boring 237 feet deep, through blue slate rock, near the Old 
Spring. It has a tube sunk the whole distance, made 
partly of iron and partly of tin, and affords a most delight- 
ful sparkling water, which boils over the top. In August 
of that year, several months after it was opened, the 
water was forced into the air to the height of 12 or 14 
feet, without any perceptible cause, in a constant jet, for 
about half an hour. The water then disappeared, and was 
afterwards discovered slowly rising till it again overflowed. 
It was for a time flat and turbid ; but soon recovered all 
its clearness, gaseous pungency and sparkling. 

The Lafa'^ette Spring, which yields a fine and 
sparkling chalybeate water, was discovered early in the 
summer of 1825. It is supposed by many to be in fact 
identical with the "Old Spring." It is very cold and 
highly charged with oxyde of iron and carbonic acid gasy 
which have given it a high reputation. 

The Old 8fri7ig, which is in the middle of the street, 
was the fir^t discovered in ;.>.II this Durt of the co^^ntrv. li 




i \> 



,Jlliillli:llllll!Sll!M4 i 



SARATOGA. 83 

is said that the inhabitants were induced to trust to its pe- 
culiar virtues by the example of the deer of the forest, 
which had resorted to it in such numbers as to form beaten 
paths from every direction to the spot. In 1792 there 
was not a house %\dthin two miles of this spot. 

The Old Spring has lost much of its original excellence, 
which appears to be in a good degree transferred to the 
new ones. 

The Saline, or United States Spring is near the bath- 
ing house connected with the Sans Souci. It was disco- 
vered about 18 years since, and contains a large quantity 
of oxyde of iron, together with glauber and other salts, so 
that it is at once a strong saline, and chalybeate water. 

The New Spring is near the Sans Souci hotel. It was 
obtained in 1827 by boring to the depth of about 300 feet, 
and is full of gas, very sparkling, and considered both 
saline and chalybeate. 

The neighbouring country was almost a perfect wilder- 
ness at the close of the revolutionary war ; for the natural 
military route between Canada and the United States lay 
through it, to the Five Nations of Indians, and war par- 
ties were frequently passing over it. 

For some years the only place where visiters could find 
shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old Spring, 
which was for some time the only object of notice. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

Saratoga Springs are 7 miles from Ballston Springs 
by the railroad. 

Saratoga is quite concealed until you are within a short 
distance, and then the clusters of frail board buildings 
which spi'ing up among the stumps of trees lately felled in 
the skirts of the pine forest, show what an unnatural sur- 
plus of population the place contains during the visiting 
season, which is principally in July and August. 

From the brow of a hill which descends into the village, 
the street lies in full view, with all the principal houses. 
On the right is Congress Hall three stories high with a 
row of 17 columns, rising from the ground to the eaves ; 
opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 similar columns ; 
over which are seen the brick walls of the United States 
8* 



M THE SPniNCS, 

Hotel ; and still beyond, and on the other side, the roof 
of the Pavilion. From this view the village is represented 
IP the accompanying print, which was taken on the spot. 

At the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, the great 
attraction of the place, is seen at a short distance on the 
right, usually surrounded with a throng of people. 

Congress Hall has an imposing appearance. It is 196 
feet long on the street, with two, wings of 60 feet running 
back, and contains lodging for 150. The first floor in front 
is divided in the following manner : a dining room in the 
middle, capable of containing tables for all the house can 
accommodate ; next the dancing hall, about 80 feet long ; 
and south ihe ladies' private parlour. The price of board 
is $10 per week. 

The United States Hall is a fine building of brick, 
three stories high, with a colonnade. 

The Pavilion, Those who wish to drink often of the 
Flat Rock water, will prefer it, as that Spring is only a 
few steps from it in the rear. There is a fine Bathing 
House connected with it, and a shady little wood not far 
beyond by the road side, on the way to the Round Rock 
Spring. 

Union Hall is the resort of those who wish to have the 
most convenient access to the waters of the Congress 
Spring, or to participate more moderately in the amuse- 
ments of the place, and to avoid the inconveniences of 
gaiety and mirth, produced by the continued round of balls 
and dances in the other principal houses. 

The Congress Spring, which is the great source from 
which this place derives its celebrity and its show of wealth 
and importance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam. He built 
the first house near it for the accommodation of invalids, 
which was subsequently enlarged to the present Union 
Hall, now kept by his son. 

The Congress Spring was long concealed by the neigh- 
bouring brook wbic.hformerly passed over it; but its valua- 
ble qualities being discovered, it has attracted universal 
attention, and the benefits of its waters are annually dis- 
pensed to thousands. 

Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis ; half a gal* 
Ion contains 320 grains of salt, 2u lime and magnesia, 
with u slight trace of iron. 



^ ! 







lliiiill Jliiiiililli 



IISS 



THE SPRINGS. ot? 

The Flat Ttoch Spring is near the upper end of the 
street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. 

The Round Rock Spring is worthy of a visit merely 
as a natural curiosity ; the water, although for a time 
much celebrated, and indeed the only attraction of which 
Saratoga could boast, having gone into disrepute, since 
the discovery of the sources already mentioned. It is a 
feeble chalybeate with httle taste and little effect. The 
water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a coni- 
cal form, with a circular hole in the middle, about five 
inches in diameter. The rock is about five feet through 
at the base, and has evidently been produced by the lay- 
ers of lime deposited by the water. 

That part of the rock which is most exposed to the drip" 
ping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the 
top, is always smooth and even, while other parts are 
rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters are some- 
times found half obliterated by a recent coat of calcareous 
matter formed in this manner. A horizontal rock, of 
similar formation, extends under ground. 

It is said that the Round Rock was shown to Sir Wil* 
liam Johnson by an Indian, before which time it v/as un-- 
known to white men. The water, according to common 
report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for many 
years found its way below, through a crevice produced by 
a large forest tree which fell and cracked the rock. 

The Iodine Spring is near the Round Rock. 

Mineral Springs and Minerals of New-York. A 
scientific survey of the state of New-York, has been in 
progress several years, the reports of which are highly in- 
teresting. Numerous springs of almost all sorts are found 
in diiferent counties. Besides those mentioned in this book; 
there are petrifying springs at Watervliet, Chitteningo^ 
Marcellus, Governeur, St. Lawrence, Ithaca, &c. Brine 
springs in Cortlandt county, York, Lenox. Vernon, Mur- 
ray, and elsewhere in Orleans, Wayne and Oswego couu" 
ties. Sulphureous and chalybeate are most numerous. — ' 
The petrified shells, &c. found in many of the rocky strata^ 
are associated with petrified plants of the same species as 
accompany them in Europe. Specimens from both coun"* 
tries, if accidentally mixed, could not be discriminated. 
Iran, lead, copper. zinC; plumbago and other mines 



§6 SARATOGA. 

and beds are numerous. The Rossie lead mine, St. Law- 
fence county, is remarkably rich and valuable, and abounds 
in a variety of beautiful minerals. 

Education. This state has made most creditable progress 
in public education. A small sum is annually paid out of the 
{^chool fund to common school districts, which have expend- 
ed an equal amount on schools regularly conducteri ; and 
the system is now general. The share of the surplus reve- 
nue has been appopriated to the purchase of district libra- 
ries; and about 10,000 libraries of 50 volumes each, are 
now gratuitously open to thechildren and adults, under the 
charge of the teachers. The colleges and about 80 acada- 
mies are under the superintendence of the Regents of the 
University, and aided with money from the literature fund. 
Scientific observations are made at the academies, and 
full reports annually returned. 

Saratoga Lake. An excursion to this beautiful piece 
of water, is one of the most agreeable that can be made in 
any direction. It is 5i miles distant, in a southeasterly 
direction, and is frequently visited by parties from Saratoga. 

The lake extends seven miles in length and is two in 
breadth. The shores are bold and varied, gently descend- 
ing with a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged 
crags from the water's edge; sometimes softened and 
beautified by the hand of cultivation, and sometimes aban- 
doned to all their native wildness. 

The Reading Room. Strangers will find newspapers 
from different parts of the country. 

A record will also be found at the same place, into 
which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied, 
once a day, from the books of the principal houses. 

The Battle Ground. The defeat of General Burgoyne 
in the year 1777, took place a few miles east from the 
Springs. See page 78. 

Remarks on the Routes. North. Three great routes 
from the Springs towards the north may be particularized, 
although they run almost side by side, and all unite on 
arriving at Lake Champlain. Ist, The fashionable route, 
to Caldwell on Lake George. 2d, The road to White- 
hall. 3d. By stagecoach and canal to Whitehall.* 

* There also are two stage routes to Montreal, one on each 
side of Lake Champlain. 



THE SPRINGS. 87 

The first of these is usually travelled hy strangers of 
taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scenery 
of Lake George, and the battle grounds in its vicinity ; 
and passes near several other spots of high interest for 
their historical associations. Even if a journey to Mon- 
treal is intended, it can hardly be too urgently pressed 
upon the sti'anger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake 
George on his way, as he will find himself most amply 
rewarded and can join the great route with facility at 
Ticonderoga. 

The traveller should stop at Ticonderoga to see the 
ruins of the old fortress. If he can visit Lake George, 
he may take the beautiful scenery, and interesting sites of 
that attractive region in his way. If he has not time for 
that, he may land at Ticonderoga, where a steamboat 
wharf has just been built, and a commodious house fitted 
up this season, and devote at least one day to a ramble 
about tliat picturesque and celebrated point. 

The second route is the road to Whitehall, which is 
furnished with public carriages from the Springs during 
the warm season, and like the canal passes near some of 
the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From 
Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Cham- 
plain in the daily steamboats, or by land in the mail 
coach. 

East. Travellers wishing to go to any part of the 
country in this direction, may take their choice of several 
routes. Lines of stagecoaches run to Connecticut River^ 
from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and Granville, 
as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — 
to Hanover, Brattleborough, Gi'eenfield, Northampton, 
Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdividing into nume- 
rous ramifications, offer the means of conveyance to every 
part of New-England. 

The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man 
of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont 
to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in 
New-Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases to 
Connecticut River ; and then proceed to Bath on it» 
eastern shore, pursuing the course of the Lower Am- 
monoosuc River to the White Mountains. 



88 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGB. 

EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. 

This is by far the most delightful, as well as fashiona- 
ble excursion which can be made from the Springs in any 
direction, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in 
the United States, and in numerous sites and objects inti- 
mately connected with the history of the country. 

For Lake George, 27 m. a stagecoach starts daily, after 
the arrival of the Albany train of cars, with six horses, 
and passing through Glenn's Falls, arrives by daylight. 
The beautiful and commodious steamboat Wm. Caldwell, 
Capt. Larrabee, plies on the lake daily (Sundays excepted.) 
The line is complete, rapid and convenient on this route 
to Lake Champlain, as coaches await the boat at the 
end of the lake, and go on to Ticonderoga. The boat 
waits 3J hours, which is sufficient time to see Ticonde- 
roga, dine and return. There the traveller finds a good 
hotel ; and, after reviewing the interesting ruins and 
scenery, may go back to Lake George, or pass down Lake 
Champlain to Canada. 

The splendid steampacket Burlington, Capt. R. W. 
Sherman, and the Whitehall, Capt. Lyons, touch daily at 
the new dock at Ticonderoga Point, which has been con- 
structed for their convenience by Mr. Pell, proprietor of 
the place. The ruins remain in the same state of careful 
preservation in which they were kept by the late Alfred 
H. Pell, Esq. to whose taste and intelligence visiters to this 
interesting spot will be indebted for much gratification. 
The fine and extensive garden, enriched by him with 
some curious exotics, is worthy of attention. There will 
be found, in luxuriant growth, several plants rarely found 
in so cold a climate : the cork tree, French willow, Euro- 
pean vines, &c. 

From the time of the earliest wars between the British 
colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 1755, the 
tract over which part of our route lies was the high road 
of war. It was traversed by many a hostile expedition, 
in which the splendour and power of European arms 
mingled with the fierce tactics of savage warriors : the 
ruins of fortresses are still to be traced in several places, 
and tradition points to many a spot that has been sprin- 
kled with blood. During the revolution, also, some of 



12 








GLENN S FALLS. QB 

the important events in our history took place in this 
neighbourhood. 

The Road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls, 18 miles. 
Wilton, 7 m Thirteen miles beyond, the road branches 
off eastward for Sandy Hill. 

Half a mile before reaching the village, the road enters 
a rich plain, probably once overflown by the river, which 
is now discovered on the left, dividing it in its course, 
while the village appears in front, with a handsome church 
spire, and a number of neat white houses, all backed by 
the mountains, which here stretch off towards the north. 

French Mountam is the most prominent eminence, of 
which more anon A more distant range is likewise seen 
further to the right. 

Glenn's Falls. From the bridge, the falls in the 
Hudson are in full view. The river here makes a sudden 
descent of 37 feet, over a rock of dark blue limestone, 
which has been worn into so many forms as to break up 
the current in a very singular manner. The projection of 
two large masses of rock divides the water into three 
sheets. 

On the north side of the river is a feeder to the Cham- 
plain Canal. 

Caverns. The mouths of two caverns are found facing 
the north, in different places among the rocks. The first 
is just large enough to permit the passage of a man, and 
is cut with surprising regularity for a distance of about 
25 feet. This place is made the scene of some of the 
most interesting chapters of Mr. Cooper's novel of the 
Last of the Mohicans. 

About half way between this place and Sandy Hill, a 
convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, on 
their way to Lake George. 

Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mountain ; 
and a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Between 
them passes the road to Lake George. Towards the 
west, a range of high hills encloses the view, and in the 
east, the Vermont Mountains make a fine appearance. 

Near the foot of French Mountain is a small house, on 
the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. Dieskau's 
advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's Falls and 
Fort Edward to Fort William Henry, The valley through 



?)0 LAKE GEORGE. 

which we pass is narrow for some distance beyond 5 and 
after about half an hour's ride, a little circular pond ig 
discovered on the east side, and close by the road. It is 
usually almost concealed with water plants. 

This was near the place of action between Col. Wil*- 
iiams and Gen. Dieskau. The latter had extended his 
troops across the path, and advanced his wings some dis- 
tance in front, the left wing occupjing the rising ground 
on the west side of the road near this place. A small 
cleared spot may be noticed on the other side, a little 
beyond the pond, (in 1825 a hut stood upon it,) that is 
said to have been the principal scene of action; and a 
singular rock near by is pointed out by tradition as the 
mark of Col. Williams's grave. 

The little pond above mentioned was the place where 
most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of 
Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller 
than formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of a man was dug 
up from a depth of 1| feet, near the pond, with a marble 
pipe, and some silver eyed buttons bearing the royal stamp. 
This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in their sea* 
son, with the Pond Lily, (Nymphea Alba.) 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Lake Geokge. Coming to the brow of a high hill, the 
prospect opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by moun- 
tains, many of which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. 
The side of French Mountain is near at hand on the east, 
covered with thick trees to the suminit ; while the smooth- 
ness of the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the 
neat white buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the 
scene a degree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly 
be found in any other spot. Directly at the south end 
are the remains of Forts George and William Henry. 

Caldwell. The village of Caldwell is the place at 
which the visiter will stop to take a view of this charming 
lake, and from which he will make his excursions across 
its beautiful waters. The village stands at the south end 
of the lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of 
the neighbouring sheet of water, and the mountains by 
which it is almost enclosedb The inn to which strangers 



LA.KK GEORGE. 81 

resort occupies a spot peculiarly fitted to gratify the eye of 
taste, as it overlooks the lake for several miles, and the 
view is not interrupted by any neighbouring obstacle. A 
more delightful place can hardly be found in the United 
States> for the temporary residence of one Avho takes de- 
light in scenery of this description, and loves to recur 
to deeds long past, and to exploits great in themselves 
and important in their results even to the present day. 

Lake (ieorge is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 
4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. 
The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is re- 
markable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at 
the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied 
by sprmgs from below, as the water is coldest near the 
bottom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There are 
deer in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which Icada 
to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapido. 
The lake never rises more than two feet. 

The three best points of view are at Fort George, a 
place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at 
Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. 
The last view is taken southward, the other two north- 
ward. 

This beautiful basin with its pure crystal water, is 
bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in some 
places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, 
and in others descending with a graceful sweep from a 
great height to a broad and level margin, furnish it with 
a charming variety of scenery, which every change of 
weather, as well as every change of position, presents in 
new and countless beauties. The intermixture of culti- 
vation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely agree- 
able; and the undulating surface of the well-tilled farm 
is often contrasted vs^iih the deep shade of the native forest, 
and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no vegetation 
can dwell. 

The situation of the Hotel is delightful, surpassing 
that of almost every other to be found in this part of the 
country, and the apartments are so arranged that half of 
them look out upon the lake. A green and handsome 
slope descends about 200 yards to the very margin. 
9 



92 tEA ISLAND. 

There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives and 
lands her passengers. The discharge of a gun makes 
due echoes among ihe mountains in a clear night 

The lake is here aliout three-quarters of a mile wide, 
and the range of mountains opposite, which are high and 
uninterrupted, is quite uncultivated with the exception 
of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being co* 
vered with trees almost to the water. 

On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which 
is formed of low land for some distance back, succeeded 
by French Mountain in the rear On a little point, 
half covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet 
above the water, is the site of Fort William Henry; and 
about a mile towards the southeast from it, on a con- 
siderable elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. See 
page 93. 

Excursions on the Lake Boats are kept at the 
wharf to convey passengers to any part of the neighbour- 
ing shores and islands. Fine perch, or black bass, {Perca 
Frankiiaia,) are caught in abundance almost everywhere ; 
and trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the south 
end. Fishing rods and tac'<le may be obtained at the ho- 
tel ; and a variety of other fish are to be found. 

Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and 
is famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are 
found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- 
face They are found, however, in equal numbers in 
several of the other islands ; and it is easy to purchase 
them. 

Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another 
favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land 
is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old. 
hut standing which affords something of a shelter. 

Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been 
inhabited and cultivated Beside these, there are many 
other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and 
those who are fond of such excursions, would be highly 
pleased with devoting several days to visit them, 'ihe 
finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 rniles distant. 

West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, 
called Raitlcsnakes^ Cobble, or Prospect IIill. This, as 



LAKE GEORGE. 93 

well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of bears 
and deer, and much infested with rattlesnakes. The 
view from the top is very fine. 

The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell 
is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege 
of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- 
pies was crossed by the trenches and batteries with which 
Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capitulation of 
that little fortress. 

The place where he landed with his army is (he little 
cove just behind the new stone building, a few steps north 
of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and 
ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front 
of the hotel. The remains may still be traced, as well as 
the marks of a small mortar battery, near the bars of a 
fence leadmg to a small house. Another line runs to the 
bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was 
also a battery ; and another bortlers the swarrp to the 
right, and another turns southward along the high ground. 
Behind this, in a pine wood, are the graves of about 1000 
French soldiers, who died in the fort. 

Battle of Lake George In 1755, the year after 
the commencement of the French War, 3000 men were 
sent out from France to Quebec, for the purpose of tak- 
ing Oswego Fort. This was situated at the mouth of 
the Oswego or Onondago River, and on the shore of Lake 
Ontario. 

General Johnson, (afterwards Sir William,) also march- 
ed to the south end of Lake George with a consider- 
.able number of men, joined by the famous Capt. Hend- 
rick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, intending to 
take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gen. Dieskau 
was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally from 
the body of French troops mentioned at Quebec. On 
reaching South Bay, and learning the situation of Fort 
Lyman (now Fort Edward,) he wished, to attack it and 
cutoff the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Ca- 
nadians, however, were in dread of the cannon with 
which it was supposed to be defended, and he was obliged 
Xo march against Johnson. 

(Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought John- 



94 BATTLE OF LAKK GEORGE. 

son intelligence that Dieskau was coming ; who sent 1200 
men out in the morning, under the command of CoL 
Ephraim Williams. The enemy were in ambush at Rocky 
Brook, drawn np in a semicircle, into which the EngHsh 
entered before they knew it. A heavy fire from three 
sides first showed the position of their enemies. The En- 
glish stood their ground valiantly ; but Cols. Williams and 
Hendrick being both shot down, together with many others, 
they were obliged to begin their retreat, which was conduct- 
ed by Col. Whiting with the greatest coolness and success. 
The centre of the English army was posted on the hill 
where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French 
were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted 
at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some 
mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave 
them time to recover from their panic. The ground on 
both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered 
with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right 
flank and the Canadians on the left to surround them. 
Col. Pomeroy, however, soon put the former to flight with 
a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops 
in front, and made them fire by platoons, with very little 
effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops,) was 
slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to 
his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He 
directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's 
artillery ; when the French turned upon the English right, 
which consisted of Ruggles's, Pomeroy's and Tittlecomb's 
regiments, and extended from the road to where Fort 
William Henry was afterwards built. Here they fought 
an hour, but the English and Indians charging them, they 
took to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau him- 
self was found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol- 
dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, to take 
out his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and sup- 
posing he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the 
thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a 
blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from ordering a 
pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. 
Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that 
was probably a sufficient reason for its being refused by a 
cuperior officer, who looked upon his great talents with 



MASSACRE AT FORT WILLIAM HENRY. 95 

.Jealousy; and, in spite of the advantage the country had 
derived from his services, at a time when they where 
peculiarly valuable, did not even mention the name of 
Gen. Lyman in his account of the battle! — Johnson wag 
made a Baronet, aiid Lyman hngered out a few years in 
poverty and disappointment, and died without receiving 
even the notice of the British g-overnment. 

The English are said to have lost only 216 in killed and 
.96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own loss at 
1000— the English called it much less. The principal 
were a Major General, and M. de St. Pierre the comman« 
der of the Indians. The French lost their baggage dur- 
ing the action, left two miles in their rear, it being attacked 
by Captains Folsom and McGinnies with about 100 New* 
York troops ; who then lay in wait for the retreating 
French, and killed great numbers of them. 

Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point ; but he 
delayed it so long, that the French ad\anced to Ticonde- 
roga and there fortified themselves securely. 

But the Battle of Lake George is not the only nor 
the most sanguinary scene of former times which the tra« 
veller has to trace on this sadly interesting spot. The his- 
tory of the French war recites a melancholy tale of blood* 
shed here, only two years afterwards, in 1757. 

The Cafture and Massacre of Fort William Henry. 
In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander in Chief 
in America, made an unsuci-essful attempt by sea against 
Louisburg ; and before his return to New-York in August, 
the French from Ticonderoga under the Marquis de Mont- 
calm, had made three attacks on Fort William Henry. 
On the 1st of Aug. they set out again, and landed at French- 
man's Point. On the evening of the 9d, they crossed to 
the west side of Lake George, within two miles of the fort, 
and the next morning sent in their summons. Colonel 
Monroe defended himself resolutely for six days, hoping 
relief from Col. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Ed- 
ward ; but having waited in vain and burst ten of his 
largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and marched 
out with the honours of war and an assurance of being 
protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. 

He had gone but a little way, however, when the sa 
9* 



■96 ATtACK on POUT ticonderoga. 

Vages fell upon his troops and butchered about 1500 ttien^ 
Women, and children. 

Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The pro* 
vincial troops were kept under arms for one whole day 
after the news of the siege arrived at Fort Edward, and 
Sir William .Inhnson was very desirous to march with 
them to its relief t but Webb ordered them back to their 
quarters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising 
him to surrender. 

Attack on Fort iHdonderoga. The south end of Lake 
Georg-e was the scene of a splendid embarkation on the 
4th of July of the following year, (1758,) when 10,000 
provincial troops, and 6 or 7000 regulars assembled at 
this place to proceed against Ticonderoga.* 10;}5 boats 
were drawn up to the shore one clear delightful summef 
morning, and w^ere speedily filled with this powerful armyj 
excepting only a small body left with the baggage. Sue* 
cess was confidently expected^ and the appearance of the 
train was more like that of a triumphant return from war. 
The boats were decorated with gaudy streamers, and the 
oars moved to martial music. 

The traveller will follow their route in the steamboat, 
for which see below,, 

I'hey landed at the north endof the lake on the following 
morning, and were ordered to match on in four columns^ 
The obstructions of the forest however soon broke their 
ranks ; when Lord Bowe with his centre column, falling in 
with the enemy's advance guard, who were on their re- 
treat and bewildered, was attacked with a sudden war 
whoop and immediately killed. The provincials were 
accustomed to the woods, and drove back their enemies^ 
killing about 300, and taking 148 prisoners, and all re* 
turned to the landing. Tn the morning, Col. Bradstreet 
took possession of the mill at the great falls on the riverj 
and the army were soon brought to the French lines, 
\vbich were thrown up across the isthmus and not finished. 
This intrenchment is still to be seen in tolerable preserva- 

* Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a young 
nobleman of amiable disposition and tiie most prepossessing man- 
ners, and was almost itJoHzed by tiie armyj as well as admired 
Sad loved by the couotrj'. 



tiotl* It liacl two redoubts and a deep abattis, and is said 
to have been 8 or 9 feet high. The attack was vigorous, 
^nd the defence obstinate. The battle continued for four' 
hours, during which the English were repulsed three 
times. The Highland regiment distinguished itself, and 
suffered severely The English loss, in all, was 1944, 
principally regulars; the French very trifling, although 
they are said not to have imagined the defence possible^ 
Their force is differently stated from 1200 to 6000. Not- 
"withstand'ng his superiority of force, Abercrombie shame- 
fully ordered a retreat 5 and thus terminated the opera-' 
tions of the year. 

Voyage doton Lake George. Leaving Caldwell, the 
steamboat passes Tea Island, Diamond, Long, and other 
Islands, particularly the Two Sisters ; and then the lake 
becomes wider, and the surface more uninterrupted, the 
course of the boat being directly tow^ards Toiigue Mouw 
tain. That which partly shuts it in from this direction 
on the right, is Shelving Rock ; and Black Mountain 
shows its rounded stimmit beyond it, a little to the right* 
This last is supposed to be about 2200 feet high,, and is 
considered the highest mountain on the lake. 

Twelve Mile Island is seen just ahead. It is of a 
singularly rounded form^ covered with trees, tvith the 
utmost regularity^ 

The Narrows. The lake is very much contracted 
where it passes between the mountains just mentioned^ 
and their ^surface is for several miles broken by innumer- 
able isla^ids. These are of various sizes, but generally 
Vei'y small, and of little elevation. A few of them are 
named, as Green, Bassj Lonetree Islands. 

Some of them are covered with trees, others with shrubs 5 
some show little lawns or spots of grass, heaps of bar-* 
ren rocks, or gentle sloping shores; and mcst of them 
are ornamented with graceful pines, hemlocks, and other 
tall trees, collected in groups, or standing alone, and 
disposed with most charming variety. 

After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again, and 
the retrospect is, for several miles, through that passagejr 
"with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Black Mountain 
opposite, the Luzerne range appearmg at a great distance 
between them. The raountatins in view have gencFaBy 



93 ROfiERS' SLIDE. 

bounded summits; but tlie sides are in many places broken 
by precipitous ledges. They are inhabited by wolves^ 
■deer, rattlesnakes, &c. 

Sabbath Day Point.— This is a low neck of land, 
stretching- into the lake from the western shore, and con" 
taining the little village of Hague. That on the opposite 
shore is Putman. 

On Sabbath Dav Point, Lord Amhei'st, with his nume* 
rous host, stopped for i^efreshment upon the morning of 
the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the name by 
which it is now known. It is a charming spot and sus- 
ceptible of the greatest embellishment. 

Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose.— These are two 
mountains at which the lake contracts itself again to pass 
between them. Anthony's Nose presents a precipice, on 
the eastern shore, as we enter the strait, and the firing of 
a gun produces a fine echo. Rogers'' Rock or Rogers^ 
Slide is a still more formidable one, on the other hand, a 
little further on. The last I'etrospect up the lake is still 
very fine, even Irom this point-^Black Mountain being yet 
clearly to be seen. 

Rogers^ Slide has its name from Ctipt. Rogers, a parti- 
y-an officer who distinguished himself in the French war 
by his boldness, activity, and success. He commanded 
an expedition which left Ciown Point, in the year 1756 
against the Canadian frontiers, and cut oif the Indian vil- 
lage of St. Francis, afterwards returning with the severest 
hardships, by the way of Connecticut River. Tradition 
says, that he was at another time closely pursued by a par- 
ty of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this 
mountain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended 
half down b}' the ravine which opens towards the south, 
and then by a sudden turn came to the east side, where is 
is a precipice about 200 feet high, of smooth rock, and 
nearly perpendicular, down which he slipped upon his 
enow shoes to the lake, escaping upon the ice. This seems 
almost incredible ; and other accounts have been given of 
it. Some say, that the Indians supposed he had fallen off 
the verge and perished, and others, that he threw off his 
pack that way to fiivour that belief. The water is deep 
at the bottom, and fine trout are caught there with a long 
line. Interesting minerals are found here. 



TSTorfh 







FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. 99 

The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrow 
pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both 
ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but hills 
have succeeded to mountains, and some of these are at 
length overtopped by Black Mountain, which, although at 
such a distance, at length makes its appearance again, and 
continues in sight. 

The lake at length diminishes to a very narrow stream, 
and the bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds. 

Lord Howe^s Landing is just behind an island of 3 
acres, on the left hand at the entrance of the creek. Here 
is the spot were the unfortunate expedition of Abercrombie 
effected their landing, and on the island they established 
their hospital, on their way to the attack of Ticonderoga. 

The steamboat passes on some distance beyond this 
place, and lands her passengers on the other side, where 
carriages are found in waiting to convey them to Ticon- 
deroga, three miles, over a rough road. The boat waits 3^ 
hours for the return of the coaches. 

Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way 
along the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, which 
are the highest, he forded the creek above the second. 
At the falls near the bridge which we pass, just above the 
saw mills, was a stone block house ; and there was a re- 
doubt on the north side of the stream near the bridge, 
where, as in several other places, there was some fighting 
to carry the French out-posts. 

At the Upper Falls are several valuable saw mills and 
forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. 

The Fortress of Ticonderoga. — This famous old 
fortress, or rather its remains, ai"e distinctly seen from 
Lake Champlain, though from the direction by which we 
approach it they are not discovered until we approach 
near them. An elevated piece of land, gently sloping to- 
wards the south, and ending abruptly over a bend of the 
lake, appears partially covered with trees, and crowned 
near its extremity with a cluster of broken walls and chim- 
neys. There is a meadow on the eastern side, running to 
the base of the ridge, and across this is a foot path from 
the ferry to the fort, by the nearest way ; a carriage road 
also leads from the ferry to the ridge, and thence down to 
the same place. 

The Old French Lines, where 'General Abercrombie 



100 EUINS OF THE FORT. 

was defeated in 1758, are the only part of the fortification 
which was ever the scene of a battle. They commenced 
on the east side, at a battery of heavy cannon on the shore, 
about a quarter of a mile south of the ferry. The remains 
of the breast work can yet be seen. The lines were drawn 
in a zig-zag:; first stretching off to the right, along the side 
of marshy ground, to a cluster of bushes, where v^-as a bat- 
tery ; and then to the left to the verge of a wood, where 
was another. 

Their course may be distinctly traced in this manner, 
across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to the 
brow of a steep bank looking towards the outlet of Lake 
George. The woods which now so much interrupt the 
sight, have grown since the evacuation of the fortress, 
after the revolutionary war. 

There is a fine spring of water near the western part 
of the Fi'ench lines, where a bloody engagement occurred 
between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies of 
men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, and 
shot were formerly very frequently found in old timber. 

Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this 
place. It was occupied by Gen. Burgoyne's British line, 
which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticon- 
deroga, on the 2d of June, 1777 ; and on the following 
morning, while they were approaching through the woods 
unsuspicious and undiscovered, one of their soldiers was 
observed and fired upon from a salient angle of the lines. 
This alarmed the British, who fired; and the Americans 
were so much excited that they returned three volleys, 
without orders from their officers. Strange as it may 
seem not a man was killed on either side, and the enemy 
retired without attempting any thing further there, for they 
succeeded in capturi.ig the fortress in a few dayS; by gaining ■ 
the top of Mount Defiance with their cannon. 

In proceeding from the French lines south towai'ds the 
fortress, by a gentle descent, before arriving there, at the 
distance of about 120 yards, you pass an old intrench- 
znent ; and about 150 yards further bring you to the edge 
of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row 
of palisadoes. Five stops more bring you to the walled 
side of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep in some 
places, and therefore impassable except where it has been 
partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 8 or 9 



/ FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. lOl 

yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other side in 
some places 20 or 25 feet high 

The fortress is or" an angular form, and embraces a large 
tract of ground, being divided into parts bj' deep ditches, 
which were defended by cannon and musketry, and added 
very much to the security of the place. The communi- 
cation between the.ie different parts was kept up by stone 
staircases, placed in convenient positions of the angles, 
all so calculated as to make the descent into the ditches, 
and the ascent, circuitous and intricate; and open to the 
cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those which 
remain will show the plan. The walls were originally 
much higher than at present, being raised by superstruc- 
tures of logs filled in with earth. 

The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still re- 
main of all except those on the eastern side ; their form i? 
plainly distinguishable. The parade, is about 52^ yards 
long, and 8 in breadth. The barracks, &c. the walla 
of which remain on the north, south, and west sides, are 
built of the rough blue limestone of which the neighbouring 
rocks are formed, two stories high; and these with the 
chimneys, several of which are standing, are the principal 
objects seen from a distance. The entrances to this court 
yard or parade, are between the buildings, and quite nar- 
row. By the southern entrance, Ethan Allen entered with 
his 83 raw soldiers when he surprised the fortress on the 
18th May, 1775 ; and on reaching the court yard and 
calling on the commander to surrender, the British officer, 
Capt. Deplace, made his appearance at a window and 
submitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and file. 
In consequence of this coupde main, this important place 
•was in the hands of the Americans until the arrival of Bur- 
goyne in 1777. 

The troops in the garrison had become loose disciplina- 
rians. A body of men had been dispatched from Con- 
necticut to surprise the place, and approached upon the 
opposite shore, but were unprovided with a conveyance 
to the intended point of theii enterprise. A countrj-man, 
who had been in the habit of frequently visiting the fort, 
-was made acquainted with their views, crossed the lake 
by day light, went carefully into the fort, and observed in 
what part of the parade ground the arms were stacked. 



102 MR. pell's garden. 

Being almost domiciliated by the frequency of his previous 
visits, he lounged away his time until night approached. 
He then possessed himself of a large bateau owned by the 
garrison, and recrossed the lake. Allen having joined 
the band embarked, effected a landing about one mile 
north of the fort, and proceeded across the meadows, 
shrouded by the night, and made good their daring enter- 
prise, by threatening the sentry and taking immediate 
possession of the fire arms, as pointed out by their avant 
courier. 

The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the flag of 
independence This circumstance should of itself render 
this ruin, so fine in other associations, interesting to the 
traveller. 

At each corner was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and 
under that in the northeastern one is a subterranean 
magazine. The cellars south of this, which belonged to 
the demolished buildings, and are almost fil'ed up, have a 
room or two with fire places still distinguishable. 

The Grenadiers' Battery, is situated on a rocky 
point towards the east from the main fortress. They 
were connected by a covered way, the traces of which are 
distinctly visible. 

Still in advance of the Grenadiers' Battery is a small 
work of earth, which might have contained 5 or 6 guns? 
while in front of it, and on the extreme point, two or three 
more guns appear to have been placed between the rocks, 
to fire down upon the water, about 40 feet below. The 
shrubs and trees which have grown up since the evacua- 
tion of the place, with the ivy which hangs everywdiere 
among the rocks, give the spot a very romantic appear- 
ance ; and if the visiters have furnished themselves with 
refreshments, they will not find a more delightful place to 
regale themselves. A little further east, and under the 
bank, is an old stone house, formerly a store belonging to 
the fort. Near this is the Hotel, See p. 88 & 99. 

On a spot formerly occupied as the King^s Garden, 
Mr. Pell has a fine garden, abounding in the choicest fruits 
imported from Europe, and transported from the celebrat- 
ed nurseries of Long Island. Mr. Pell has been a very 
successful propagator of the locust tree, {Rohhiia Pseiido 
acacia, of Linnaeus,) thousands of which are growing on 



Fortress of ticonderoga. 103 

these grounds in the most flourishing- manner: here is also 
the Magnolia Grandiflora, never before cuhivaled in so 
high a latitude ; the horse chesnut (Cas^awea Equinus,') 
and upwards of 70 varieties of the gooseberry from Eu- 
rope. Here also -we find the beautiful Catalpa, and the 
Liriodendron tulipefera. If it is the intention of the 
traveller to cross the lake, to the neighbouring Vermont 
shore, where are still some slight remams of Burgoyne's 
intrenchments, he will be much pleased with a walk across 
the meadows to the upper ferry, a distance of about 3-4 of 
a mile. This will remind him, if he has been abroad, of 
the park scenery of England ; and the ^'iew of the ruing 
from those meadows is strikingly beautiful : the clumps of 
trees, the circuitous route, the view of Lake Champlain on 
the right, and an amphitheatre of wood on the left, make 
this a most beautiful and interesting route. 

Between the Grenadiers' Battery and the fortress, the 
shore retains traces of many little terraces, breastworks,, 
and buildings, such as were probably work shops, barracks, 
stores, &c. 

From the more elevated parts of the works the visiter 
enjoys, in fine weather, a delightful view of the lake and 
the surrounding country. On the right is the outlet of 
Lake George, winding through a dark and narrow valley, 
and spreading out to embrace an island of the brightest 
verdure; while more immediately under the eye lies a 
fertile little meadow, interspersed with a few trees and 
clusters of shrubs, and after the hay has been made and 
stacked, sometimes enlivened by a herd of horses or 
cattle. 

Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit 
of which Gen. Burgdyne's troops showed themselves on 
the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of heavy 
cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by night, 
and planted in that commanding position, whence they 
could count the men in the fort. The distance to the sum- 
mit in a straight line is about a mile, so that the defence 
of Ticonderoga would have been impossible ; and on the 
firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel in the 
lake, which proved the range of their guns, the Americans 
made preparations to evacuate the place, and effected their 
retreat to the opposite shore during the night. 
10 



1'4j4 !LAKE CHAMI'LAIK. 

Mount Independence is aliill of compat'atively stnn.]! 
^elevation east of Mount Defiance, and separated from it 
by the lake, which has here reduced its size to that of a 
small river. On a bank, just above the water, are the re- 
mains -of a aig-zag battery for about 40 or 50 guns, running 
iacross a little corn field behind a house, and making five or 
six angles. The Horse Shoe Battery is traceable on an 
■elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge 
once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the 
buttresses of which are remaining, to the great annoyance 
<!)f the navigators of the lake ; the steamboat passes to the 
south of them. On the west shore, (near the stone store 
house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, caused his 
flotilla to be run on shore. These hnlks remain almost as 
sound as when first stranded. A forty-two pounder is said 
to have ranged from the Horse Shoe over this channel, 
{now marked by a buoy,) and the fortress. 

After the Revolutionary war, about 500 cannon were 
lying about the fortress, lines, '&c. many of them as left 
by the English, with their trunnions knocked oif. A twen- 
ty'four pounder was taken to the forge at Fair-Haven, 
some few years ago, and discharged bj' the heat, after 
lying loaded for above twenty years, and a considerable 
time at the bottom of the lake. 

The mountainous region on the west side of the lake 
abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed 
every season. 

The Passage from Ticonderoga down Lake Champlain 
as very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way 
to Canada, with fine natural scenes. 

Five Mile Point. The lake is narrow at this place, 
which is remarkable as the landing place of Gen. Bur- 
goyne's expedition, as mentioned on p. 100. Mountains 
appear in the west and northwest, with occasional inter- 
vals all the way up to Crown Point; while in the north, is 
a lofty and imposing range, with two or three peaks al- 
most bald from the height of their elevation. Summits 
multiply as we proceed, and distant mountains h.rise also 
in the northeast ; while Mount Defiance and other emi- 
nences towards the south bound the view in that direc- 
tion. There are scattering farms and houses on both 
shores. 






^ ii 

3^ 




ROUTE TO CANAJ3&. 1&& 

fhe shores are in this part strewed with the fragments 
of blue limestone rock with organic remains. 

The immediate shores are generally low all the way te* 
Crown Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the west 
at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly 
to the north agaiin. A low stretch of land covered with a 
young forest on the left, conceals the approach to this an- 
cient fortress, which, for position, as well as appearance 
and history, may be called the twiin sister of Ticonderoga'^^ 

Chimney Point, where the steamboat oftenreceives and 
lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, with a 
large public house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the* 
place to stop if the traveller intends to visit Crown Pointy 
which is opposite, across a ferry 3-4 of a mile. 

The Fortress op Cro-vtn Point. — There are several 
old works thrown up along the shore, with little bays be- 
tween them. The easternmost one is called the Grena- 
diers' Battery, the middle one is the original old French 
fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden ; and that further 
west is an outwork to a bastion of the fortress. The- 
ground on which the old fortifications stand, is owned by 
Major J. Churchill of the U. S. Army. 

The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back 
from the shore, and appears much like Ticonderoga from? 
a distance, showing the walls and chimneys of the old- 
barracks, and walls of earth surrounding them. In regard 
to its plan, however, it is materially different. The for- 
tress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form 
of a pentagon, with bastions at the angles,^ and a strong re- 
doubt at the distance of 250 or 300 yards in advance of 
each of them. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch 
walled in with stone, except where it has been blasted 
into the solid rock of blue limestone, (as is the case in 
many parts, from five to twenty-five feet,) and even into 
quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are- 
found in the limestone rock, frequently faur inches in di- 
ameter. The walls are about 20' or 25 feet high, and 
there is a convenient path running entirely round upon the 
top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and south 
sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some fine- 
views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not fasr 
.short of half a mile. 



106 FORTRESS OF CROWN POINT. 

Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; and 
close by, the remains of a covered or a subterraneous way 
to the lake shore. On entering the fortress, the stranger 
finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded on the left, 
and in front, by long ruinous buildings of stone two 
stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while the ruins of 
similar ones are seen on two sides on the right. This 
parade is about 500 feet in length. The place was sur- 
prised by Col. Warner in 1775. 

The view from the walls towards the north is very fine : 
looking down the lake, which widens at the distance of two 
or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, 
and two other points projecting beyond the distant peak, 
called CameVs Humj). A range of mountains on the west- 
ern shore, beginning at the distiince of 18 miles, including 
Bald Peak, gradually approach till they form a near and 
bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared 
farms and houses, and then stretching away to the south, 
terminate in the mountain behind. This elevation, although 
it seems almost as well calculated to command Crown 
Point as Mount Defiance does Ticonderoga, is not less than 
four miles distant. 

Every thing about this old fortress bears the marks of 
ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in 
the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the 
shingled roof which remains serves to cover a little hay 
mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the entrances 
and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The 
gi'ound around it is much covered with fragments of 
blasted rocks, and particularly at the south, with the ruins 
of old buildings. The trees which are seen, have grown 
since the evacuation of the place : and on one of the angles 
is an inscription of the date of the fortress, 1756, when it 
was constructed on a greatly enlarged plan, by Gen. Am- 
herst, at an expense of two millions of pounds sterling. 

In 1777, the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain, 
composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt. 
Pringle, carrying IB twelve pounders ; two schooners, one 
with 14 the other with 12 six pounders ; a flat-bottomed 
radeau with six twenty-fours and six twelves ; and 20 
small ci'aft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four 
pounders, and several long boats, beside boats for baggage, 
fitores, &c. 



UOVIK TO CAN&SA. WV 

The Americans had only two brigs, one co^'ette^ one 
sloop, three galleys, and eight gondolas, the largest vessel 
carrying only 12 six and four pounders. These were 
under the command' &f Arnold, who drew them- up between 
the island of Valincourt and the western shore^ where 
they were attacked. They fought four hours, and the- 
British at last retreated ; but while making his way tO"' 
wards Crowii Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all 
the squadron fled up the lake, passing this place whicb 
was- evacuated. Arnold remained fighcing as long as pos" 
sible, and did not leave his- vessel tmtil she had takers 
fire.- 

Proceeding down the lake, the breadth- of it soon in- 
creases, and at the two i-slands on the' right it i-s about 1^ 
miles across-. A little further is 

Put-in-Bai/, on the eastern shore, with an island of the 
same name. 

Sloop Islan^d, 17 miles from Burlington, is low in the 
middle, and contains several trees, which look not unlike 
masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty day, in the 
Revolutionary or French war; and fired upon by a vessel^ 
whence its name. 

At Hartford the lake suddenly opejvs to the breadth of 
several miles-, and a new scene is presented to view. On 
the west side is a rounded island covei'ed with pine trees- 
like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from 
the main land only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet^ 
Apparently just within this aperture is a rude arch of rock, 
like ihe remains of an ancient bridge. 

Burlington, 75 miles from Whitehall, This is the 
largest town on Lake Champlain, and is situated in a 
commanding as well as a delightful position. The lake 
suddenly widens as yo-ti approach it from the south, and a 
fine semicircular bay puts up to it from the east, sur- 
rounded by a crescent of high ground, under the shelter of 
which the town is situated. The University of Vermont 
is 330 feet above the lake. The view from the top of the 
hills is truly admirable ; eH>b racing in the foreground the 
elegant gardens of some of the wealthier inhabitants, 
the College, with the streets of Burlington below, the curv- 
ing form of the bay, the whole breadth of the lake,- here 
ten miles across, and a noble chain of distant blue m,ouii- 
ID* 



108 PLAt'tsBVRGK* 

tains on the opposite side. The road to Windsor by the 
Gulf is very good and interesting. A steamboat goes to 
Platlsburgh and returns daily. 

Port Kent, 10 miles, is a small village on the western 
shore, sixteen miles front Burlinaton. It serves as a port 
to the iron works established a little back in the country, 
where there is a vast quantity of ore. 

The Walled Rocks, and ike Falls of ike Au Sable> 
These are natural curiosities of a superior kind, although, 
from their secluded situation, they have not yet attracted 
general attention. To visit themj the traveller may land 
at Port Kent, take a carriage in waiting to Keeseville, 
4 m. a village where ah active business is carried on in 
lumber and iron. Thefe are saw-mills at a fall in the 
fiver. A guide will be desirableo First, 1| m. northeast} 
passing through a fine wood near the road, you reach the 
brow of a rock, and have a view of Watson's Falls* 
This is a charming object. A letter to the editor of the 
*' Northern Traveller*' describes it as offering a '* striking 
resemblance to a magnificent chandelier of three tiers, 60 
feet high, the drops of water sparkling like diamonds in 
hiotioHj and prismatic colours, like those of the rainbow, 
floating over the whole." 

You next pass a cluster of iron works, called Birming- 
ham, amidst a series of waterfalls ; and then, crossing the 
stream, and proceeding some distance through the woods, 
alight and walk to the Walled Rocks. These are preci= 
pices of stratified rocks, about 100 feet high, overhanging 
the stream, two of which are so uniform, and separated so 
precisely by deep and narrow channels cut down almost to 
the Water's level, that they seem ready to fall eVery in* 
Btant. When viewed directly endwise, they appear like 
tall chimneys, only a few feel in width ; while, at the same 
time, they lean very perceptibly beyond their narrow 
oases. Between them is a staircase, built by some of the 
lovers of nature in the neighbouring village of Keeseville, 
for the accommodation of visiters. By this ynu may de- 
scend to the bottom ; and there the scene is highly impres- 
sive and peculiar, while the spectator sees with dread^ 
that the point of view on the summit is on a thin project- 
ing shelf of rock. 

Plattsbltrgh, eight miles. This is a town o[ consi- 



ROXTTE TO CANADA. lOS 

iieifaljle importance, situated on the banks of the Saranac> 
and just behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on 
which is a line efforts erected for the defence of the place. 
The town commands a fine view. 

The St. Lawrence and Champlain railroad route has 
been surveyed from Plattsburgh to Ogdensburgh, 120 m. 
and the expense estimated at about one and a half mil- 
lions, crossing- Chateaugay river east of Malone. Another 
route has been surveyed up the north bank of Au Sable 
river across the highlands and down Racket river. The 
summit of the former near the Chateaugay is 1733 feet 
above tide ; and that of the latter, on the highlands, only 
1277. The lake here is 87, and at Whitehall 93. 

Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle 
during the late war with Great Britain. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh. When Gen. Macomb wag 
stationed at Plattsburgh, Sir George Prevost came from 
Canada with an army, and occupying the village, stood 
ready to attack the American troops, who were in posi- 
tion on the elevated ground, between the east bank of the 
river Saranac and the precipitous shore of the lake, where 
a number of forts, &c. are still to be seen. Com. McDo- 
nough was at that time on the lake with the American 
squadron; and hearing cf the approach of Capt. Downie 
with the British ships, extended his line between Hospi- 
tal Island and Cumberland Head, where he received and 
fought the enemy with such success as to capture all his 
vessels. The action continued two hours and twenty 
minutes, and was performed ia full sight of the armies. 
Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, had 105 shot in her 
hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was twice on fire. This 
battle caused the retreat of Prevost, and relieved that 
part of the country from being overi'un. 

McDonough's Farm lies on that part of Cumberland 
Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and con- 
sists of 200 acres. It was presented to hmi by the Legis- 
lature of Vermont, in gratitude for his victory. 

Chazt, 15 miles,— Rouse's Point, 12 miles. The 
country hereabouts is very uninteresting: for the level 
country has begun which extends fat into Canada. The 
appearance of the banks is quite uniform ; they being low, 



110 ST. John's. 

and in many places almost overflown by the waters of the 
lake. 

There is a long wall and battery on the south side, with 
angles. The channel is on the east side, and very naf » 
row, faced for a considerable distance by another battery. 
Sentries are posted in different places. The shipyard 
succeeds, and the officers' quarters, generally neat, one* 
story buildings, with little gardens tastefully laid out. 

The expedition against Canada in 1775, consisted of 
two divisions ; one of 3000 New^Er.gland and New-York 
soldiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgomery, pro- 
ceeded down Lake Champlain in rafts, from Ticonderoga 
and Crown Point, and took position at Isle aux Noix. 
The other, which was planned and despatched subse- 
quently, consisted of a large hody, under General Arnold, 
and proceeded through the wilderness, in the district of 
Mame, for Quebec. The former division, after a little 
delay, proceeded to St. John's. They afterwards formed 
at, this place a chevaux de frieze in the river. 

Beyond, the shores continue low and uninteresting, 
with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the 
forest encroaching to within a short distance behind. 

St. John's, (Lower Canada,) 10 miles. 

Here the steamboat stops, at the head of the rapids, 
and at the end of navigation. A railroad leads to Alon- 
treal : (18 miles by land, and 9 by water on the St. Law- 
rence, in a steamboat. ) 

The village presents nothing worthy of particular atten- 
tion, except as the scene of some military deeds, con- 
nected with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against 
this country. While the continental trooj)s were sta- 
tioned at Idle aux Noix in 1775, Generals Montgomery 
and Schuyler invested the fort, which contairied a garri- 
son of 5 or 600 troops, beside 200 Canadians, and was 
commanded by Major Preston. I'he siege lasted 6 weeks, 
and they did not capitulate till some time after the sur- 
render of Chambly, nor till the Americans had hronght 
their tienche.'j to the walls of the fun. They then ob- 



15 




y 



aOUTE TO CANADA. Ill 

tained possession of 17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, 
with balls, bombs, &c. &c. 

The Canadian ir.ioney is different from that of the 
United States; but m consequence of the continual in- 
tercourse, tiie latter passes currently. Nine sous or cop- 
pers, (which are of various and sometimes curious 
stamps,) equal six cents. Two sous nearly Id. and 20 
cents a shilling. 

A pleasant road froru St. John's to Montreal, is by 
Chambly and Longueil, (for which, see Indes.) 

The River Richelieu sometimes takes the names of 
St. John's and Sorel, in consequence of its running by 
those towns. Several mountains are in sight, as Beloeil, 
Boucherville, &c. 

The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a small 
scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Lawrence, which 
will hereafter excite the interest, if not the apprehension 
of the stranger. The bed of the Richelieu has a rapid 
descent in several places, where it comes immediately 
under observation, and becomes so shallow as to be pas- 
sable for the flattest boats only during the floods. In the 
summer it is generally only a few inches deep, ard the 
surface broken by numerous stones of all sizes, and here 
and there by little waterfalls near the shore. At the 
same time the banks are low and fiat ; the houses of one 
floor, whitewashed, and built at nearly equal distances, 
facing the river; and, in short, the general character 
of a scene on the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from 
a view here, by making allowance for superior size and 
fertility. 

It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. Law- 
rence ; but it is said that the channel of the St. John's 
might be improved by stone walls to confine the water 
over these rapids. The Chambly rapids might be passe'l 
by a short canal; and the only remaining obstructions 
except those at the mouth are at St. Theresa and Mille 
Roches. 

The inhabitants, out of the towns, have the aspect of 
f<5reigners, m dress, countenance, manners, customs, and 
language. Their fashions are antique, and many of therci 
l?.a-^e not been changed for ages « the men wear the Ca.- 



112 RAILROAD TO LAPRAIRIE. 

nadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, and moccasin of 
rough leather. The women -work in the field, and all of 
them speak French, generally without knowing a word of 
any other language. The farms will be observed, laid 
out in strips of 1 or 200 acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or 
even 3 miles in length ; and the system of farming is ex- 
tremely bad, as will be discovered at once, by the acres 
that are consigned to the useless and destructive little 
Canada thistle. There is no such thing known here as 
the doctrine of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered 
tu fertility by lying fallow, except that lately the use of 
manure has begun to be resorted to in a small degree. 
The horses are of a small breed, well known in the north- 
ern states, by the name of the country. They are small 
and slow, but powerful and hardy. Many of them are 
driven across the line, and large horses introduced into 
the towns in return. The value of a common Canadian 
horse is about $40 ; and of a good one, $60. 

There is very little to be seen on this road to interest 
the traveller. The landscape is unvarying ; the inhabit- 
ants as well as the soil are poor, and there is nothing that 
deserves even the name of a village. We pass a house 
now and then, dignified by a tall pole ar mast raised in 
front of it, which is a singular mark of distinct on con- 
ceded to officers of militia, and usually adopted by those 
of the lowest grades. 

The people have healthy countenances, inclining to 
rounfl faces and thick lips. Many of them show the up- 
per front teeth when silent ; and their aspect denotes a 
want of education, which is the real cause of the back- 
ward condition of society in Canada. They are all Pa- 
pists ; and the churches seen here and there upon the 
road, are devoted to the service ot the Romish church. 

One of the most singular traits in the domestic ar- 
rangements of the Canadians, is building the oven not 
only out of doors, like the Dutch, but directly over the 
pig Pty. 

The mountain from which the city of Montreal derived 
its name, and which rises immediately behind it, may be 
discovered at a great distance; and the house of Mr. 



Route to Canada. 113 

McTavish may be perceived, like a white spot, a little 
distance up its side. 

Some time before reaching the river, you pass an ex- 
tensive common, lying on the south side of the road, and 
then the town of 

Laprairie. This is a large town, from which steam- 
boats cross to Montreal, 9 miles. The place is built after 
the Canadian fashion ; and very few of the inhabitants 
speak English. The streets are narrow, the houses low, 
and nothing is to be seen worthy of particular notice, ex- 
cepting a nunnery and the church, both which may seem 
curious to persons who are not familiar with Popish coun- 
tries ; though of inferior interest to those of Montreal 
and Quebec. The nuns possess a large tract of land, 
nearly in the centre of the town, which is surrounded by 
a high wall : and they devote some of their time to the 
care of the sick, and the education of girls. 

The view of Montreal from the wharf is uninterrupted. 
The city is distinguished at the distance of 9 miles, by 
its thick mass of buildings, roofed with sheets of tin-, 
and overtopped by church spires, shining with th« same 
metal. Behind it rises a fine mountain, spotted with or- 
chards; on the right, down the St. Lawrence, is the for- 
tified island of St. Helen; and on the left, Nuns' Island', 
and several smaller ones at a distance, through which are 
seen the sheets of white foam caused by the rapids. The 
shores are low and perfectly f!at m every direction ; 
which, with the wide expanse of water, gives an aspect 
of tiresome monotony and extension to the scene. Uni- 
formity will be found characteristic of almost the whole 
voyage to Quebec. 

The current of the river is extremely rapid, particular- 
ly near those parts where the surface is broken by rocks ; 
but the steamboats are supplied with engine? compara- 
tively powerful, and are able to effect the passage with 
facility and in safety. An hour is generally spent in go- 
ing, and from 1^ to 3 in returning. It is impossible, how- 
ever, for any boat to go through the current without being 
borne rapidly down in some places ; and there is a part 
of the river near the middle, where the water is clear, and 
the rocks are easily seen on the bottom, as the. boats glide 



11-J 8T. JOHN S, 

on above them. In retnrning, the boats sometimes pass 
between two rocks, near the rapids, that on the east be- 
ing under water. Here the river is much agitated, and 
Eomciimes throws the water on decli, but without any 
danger. 

A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple^ 
belongs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is 
the RecoUet Church; then the French Parish Church, 
near which is seen the Great Cathedra!. The English 
Episcopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; and that 
which rises farther to the right, and near the shore, is the 
church of Bon-secouis From some plares may be seen 
the top of Nelson's monument, with several other remark- 
able objects, particularly the barracks, on the rights behind 
the remnant of the old city wall. 

MONTREAL. 

The landing place is unplessant, and tlie stranger may 
be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the lowness,, 
and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of stone or plas- 
tered to resemble it: but all this is in conformity with the 
fashion of the country ; and JVIonti^eal contains some fine 
buildings, and other objects worthy of notice, together 
v/ith a vicinity which in the warm season of the year is 
truly agreeable. 

Those who remain but a short time in this city, may 
easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of cu- 
riosity ; and are recommended to take a walk through the 
two principal streets, and to notice the following build- 
ings and places. 

At the north end of St. Paul's-street are the barracks* 
Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French Church of 
Bon-secours, which, like the other Canadian religious 
buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those 
in France. The roofs are, however, generally covpred 
with tin. This is near the northern limit of Montreal^ 
beyond which begins the Quebec suburb. 

Masonic Hall, on the the eastern side of the street. 
Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. 

Market Place and Nelson's Mouument. Then fol- 
lows a double raw of shops. On the cast side areseve- 



MOXTllEAL. 115 

ral, which show articles of Indian manufacture for sale. 
These, however, had better be bought at the nunne- 
ries, if it is intended to visit them. 

The Hotel Dieu, or Convent of Black Nuns, is a 
long stone building-, on the west side of St. Paul's-street 
from John Baptist to St. Joseph's-street. It has three 
wings: one on St. Joseph's-street being the hospital. 
One of the doors on St. Paul's-street leads into the public 
chapel, and another into the nunnery, that is, the few 
apartments which are accessible to visiters. The nuns 
make a vow on taking the veil, never to leave the walls. 
There is a large garden in the rear. This convent, 
and that of the congregational nuns occupy the whole 
square extending to Notre Dame-street. 

This building, and others like it in Canada, are un- 
worthy of a traveller's attention, except as specimens of 
institutions which have exerted a powerful and unfriendly 
influence on all nations who have tolerated them. Found- 
ed by the superstition which they perpetuate, framed 
on a model borrowed from the heathenism of Egypt, 
supported by fanaticism, tolerated by ignorance, govern- 
ed by a power as distant as Rome, and used by it to 
foster ignorance, and to sustain its authority, convents 
have been, and probably always will be, engines for de- 
grading the mind, corrupting the manners, and enslav- 
ing the people. 

The Neio Cathedral is probably the largest church 
in North America, except Mexico. This edifice is on the 
Place d^Armes. It was commenced in 1825, and is 
partly copied from some of the European models of the 
13th, 14th and 15th centuries. It is of the plainest 
style that can bear the name of Gothic : an exuberance 
of ornament being inconsistent with a climate so severe 
as that of Canada. 

It is 255 feet long from west to east, and 134 feet 
•wide. It was designed to have six quadrangular tow- 
ers, each 200 feet high: three on each flank, and two 
at each end. The curtain, or space between the front 
towers, is 73 feet by 119, and has pai-apets. There are 
five public entrances and three private to the first floor, 
and four to the gallei'ies. The building can contain 
10,000 persons, which number may assemble and dis- 
11 



116 THE COLLEGE. 

perse in a few minutes. The eas^tern window over th&- 
high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is to be divided by 
shafts and mullions for stained glass. The ceiling is 80' 
feet high, groined and partly supported by a double 
range of grouped columns, intersected by rails. 

There are seven altars for the nuns. The floor rises 
gradually from the entrance to the high altar. The 
house is to be warmed by heated air from stoves under' 
the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone frons 
the mountain. 

Gray Nuns' Convent., a large stone building, about 
410 feet in length, is in the southeastern part of the city. 
These nans have a large number of orphans under their 
charge, and are not forbidden to go out, so that they may 
be seen in the streets dressed in gray hooded cloaks. 

The Seminary (La Seminaire) is an antique build- 
ing, and contains a library of about 6,000 volumes. 

The College is a large building of stone, three sto- 
ries high, erected in 1819 out of the funds of the Semi- 
nary. It has a front of about 150 feet, with wings 
projecting in front and rear, which make the whole 
length about 220 feet. It has a spacious yard on the 
south side, for a play ground, succeeded by a fine gar- 
den. In order to guard against fire, large iron doors 
are hung in the passages, in such a manner that by 
shutting them the whole building may be divided into 
three parts, each fire proof. 

It contains about 300 students, who are divided into 
eight classes, to each of which is devoted a year, with' 
the exception of the two last, which occupy but six 
months apiece, so that the whole course of instruction 
is finished in seven years. Many of the pupils, however, 
leave the institution before completing the coarse. 

The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the- 
building is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, 
the former of which are hung with maps and pictures of 
paints, and the latter supplied with crosses and fonts. 
The price of instruction is about eighty dollars per 
year, and some of the pupils have allowances made themj. 
particularly those designed for the church, M'ho assist is* 
instruGtioii by day, and study by night. There is a prepar- 



MONTREAL. 117 

^tory school connected with the colleare. One of the in- 
structers always oversees the boys in their recreations. 

Returning to the square, and entering another princi- 
'pal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass nume- 
rous respectable and some elegant dwellings, leaving 
the Parish Church and the new Cathedral on the east. 

The Wesleyan Chapel, the American Congregational, 
and the English Episcopal Churches are in this part 
of the town. 

The Parade, a handsome piece of ground, with a 
walk, where the troops are drilled every morning, gene- 
rally at 10 o'clock. 

Island of St. Helen, or Granfs Island. This is 
held by the British government, for a military position 
-and depot. It is principally covered with trees ; but has 
a beautiful garden behind the quarters of the officers ; and 
a fine road winding round from the landing place, on the 
south end, (where are some remains of old works, and a 
new battery,) to a rocky eminence over the arsenal, which 
is opposite the northern quarter of the town. This rock 
is about eleven feet higher than the most elevated part,< 
of the city; and the view from it is handsome, with a wild 
ravine just below. 

The arsenal and storehouses form three buildings, with 
a narrow yard between them, about 125 feet in length. 
The batteries range on the river and town, and are fur- 
nished with neat barracks, a magazine, &c. 

The Mountain of Montreal offers an extensive and 
delightful view, and should by no means be forgotten by 
those who have an opportunity to undertake the excur- 
sion. It is better calculated to afford an idea of the country, 
as well as to delight the eye, than any other point to which 
an excursion can be made. Yet it is recommended, if the 
traveller stays long enough, to take a ride or two in differ- 
■ent directions, after having visited this favourite spot. 

There are different ways of reaching tbe summit of the 
mountain : on foot, by an intricate route from the southern 
part of the city; on horseback, or in a carriage, to the 
ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also 
•a foot path up the north end. 

The country spread out to view on arri^dng at this com- 
isaanding height, is a plain of such vast extent as to ap* 



118 MONTREAL BIOUNTAIN. 

pear in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it stretch- 
es much farther than would be imagined ; for all the way 
to Quebec, the river's banks present the same appearance. 

The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- 
tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, 
which soon give place below to a smooth descent, declining 
to the base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the eleva- 
tion of which stands M'Tavish's house. A beautiful 
display of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided 
by high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Below 
a moderate descent, which appears like an old bank of the 
river, gardens and dwellings begin to increase ; and 
behind a succeeding one, of a similar description are 
suburbs of the city. 

East, on the horizon is Boucherville Mountain ; and 
over it is seen more indistinctly, Beloeil Mountain. The 
plain country between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is 
divided into innumerable fields, with scattering houses. 
In the same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's 
Island; and in a direction with the south end of it, the 
steeple of Bon-secour church. North of this are the Que- 
bec suburbs, beginning near the barracks ; the Waterworks, 
and Baths. Nearex", are seen St. Louis and St. Lawrence 
suburbs. 

S. S. East, on the opposite shore, La Prairie ; and 
nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not distin- 
guishable. In a range with them, are Nuns' Island, and 
Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3^ 
miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city, 
are St. Antoine, Ricolet. St. Anne's, and St. Joseph's. 

North. Bout de I'Isle, the extremity of Montreal 
Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village of Boucher- 
ville ; opposite which is liOngueil, and further down, Va- 
rennes, with a two stcepled church. 

N. East, the view is boundless, with a succession of 
cultivated fields, which in the distance become quite un- 
distinguishable. The same appearance, it will hereafter 
be seen, extends along the river's banks quite to Quebec. 

Road round, the Mountain, The road near the north 
end of the mountain is ornamented with many beautiful 
seats, and there are also some extensive manufactories. 
Behind it is a fine extent of cultivated ground. 



lo 



JVorOv^ 




■routes in CANADA. 115 

Ol?HER Excursions. To Lachine, 9 miles, or 3 leagues. 
The river road is the pleasantest ; giving a view of the 
Rapids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, the Indian village of 
"Caughnawaga opposite, and crossing the Lackine Canal. 

To Pointe aux Trembles and Bout de VIsle. 

The southern road to the Mountain, which crosses it at 
the less elevated part of the ridge, near the middle, leads 
through St. Joseph's suburbs, and afterward passes a 
number of fine country seats. The most remarkable are 
those cf Mir. M'Gillivray, and the late Mr. Gregory, 
members of the old North West Company, which was 
converted into the Hudson's Bay Company. It engrossed 
the Indian trade for a vast distance dp the lakes, and en- 
riched many individuals. 

The Priests^ Farm lies west of the city near the base of 
the mountain ; and is a largo tract ef land, with an old 
building in the ancient European style, preserving many of 
the features of feudal days, with its projecting square 
towers, small windows, pointed roofs, and weather-beaten 
walls. The barns connected with it are very spacious, 
and seem capable of containing a large part of the pro- 
ducts ef the farm. The only wonder seems to be what a 
few old men can do with such vast stores, as well as 
with their receipts from various other quarters. 

The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in which 
the monks of Ricolet, as Seigneurs, have the right of a 
Eax on every farm, on eve^^' purchase and sale of real 
estate, and many other pri\dleges, vested in them by the 
king of France on the first settlement of the place. Cir- 
cumstances have conspired to reduce and destroy many of 
these privileges, so that the annual income of the priests, 
from this rich and valuable Seigneurie, though large, is 
'very trivial, in comparison with its extent and fertility. 

Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of 
Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil; but 
Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as was 
ir^tended, the former was taken prisoner by Gov. Carlton, 
after a sharp engagement, loaded with irons, and sent to 
England. Col. Warner afterwards erected batteries on 
the shore at Longueil, by which he drove back the go- 
vernor when he atfiemptcd to land or his way to relieve 
-St. John's. 

11* 



1-20 RltEll ST. LaWHEKCS. 

ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, 

RoAD TO QuEBEfT. 

Notwithstanding the common prejudices against tra- 
velling by land in Canada, which are entertained by 
many persons not acquainted with the country^ it is re- 
commended to those who may find it convenient, to make 
arrangements for performing a part of the journey in this 
manner, either going or returning. 

The country is indeed a dead level, btit it is entirely re- 
duced to cultivation, thickly populated, and with good 
roads. The way lies along the very margin of the St. 
Lawrence, passing an almost uninterrupted succession of 
dwellings, and supplied with many comfortable and some 
good inns. 

SfKAMBOAT TO Ql/KBEC?. 

Leaving Montreal in the steamboat, yoii pass under the 
fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas of the 
city being seen nearly in the following order beginning at 
the south end^ Gray Nuns', Ricolet Church, Black Nuns', 
then the Old Cathedral, Episcopal Churchy Nelson's Mon* 
ument;, Bon-secour Chnrch. Near the last, on the shore, 
are the Barracks, Water works, and Baiths; the begin^ 
ning of the Quebec suburbs, the residences of J^jdge Reed 
and Mr. Malson, with terraced gardens towards the river, 
&c. A little below is Malson's Brewery^ and Sir Joha 
Johnson's residence. 

The Rapids of St. Mart ai-e between the island and 
these last mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity 
that steamboats are sometimes obliged to be drawn tip by 
cattle. 

Longweil, juf^theloyf St. Helen's. 

Longue Fointe, 6 miles (2 leagues) from MontJieaL 

Vercheres, on the east side. 

Varennes ha» a church with a double spife. 

Point aux Trembles, 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Ilere is S 
nunnery, in which is a school for girls. 

Boui de V Isle. Here is no- village ,j bal oraly a 
fon-y. 

ConfrtCfEur, on the east. 

Repeniigvy, a prett)' vvHage, 



tximv 




D.s:r/,roo/i jv. 



iCoUTE To QUiiEEC. I2i 

At this place it is recommended to the traveller % land, 
to make a deviation from the direct road along the river, if^ 
he finds it convenient, to see the delightful country between- 
it and the town of Assomption. There is a beautiful road 
on each bank, varied with houses aind trees. Return so a& 
to strike the road near St. Sulpice. 

SL Sulpice, 24 miles (8- leagues) from MontrfeaL 

Let Moraye. 

Berthier. 

Machiche is a pretty tovi'n, at the mouth of the Kivieffif 
du Loup. 

Many French custotns are still preserved by the immixed 
inhabitants of the St. Lawiience, some of which are agreea-* 
ble and interesting. 

There is very little variety to he discovered in the na-' 
tural surface of the ground, but the journey through this- 
region presents almust an unva?ying scene of cultivations 
and fertility. For a great part of the distance, there is s 
narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the road and the' 
river's bank, to corre&pond with the fields -which stretch off 
to such a distance on the other hand ; snd the variety of 
crops, and the occasional rows and clumps of trees, re-^ 
move, in a good degree, the natural sameness of the land-' 
scape. 

Navigation anu Traete of the St. Lawrence, &c,/ 

Steamboats are of the utmost importance on this grea^ 
river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience and 
expedition of travelling,- and render most valuable assist-' 
ance to comnierce. There are many steamboats constantly 
employed between Ai ontreal and Quebec, most of then;^ 
fitted to accommodate passengers, as well as to carry 
freight, and all provided with powerful engines. The* 
principal article of export frum Canada is lumber, a greag 
deal of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and 
then shipped for England. These rafts have Usually al 
great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to' 
shelter the men from the weather, so that they have a very' 
singular appearance, and at a little distance look like be 
fleet of sail boats. The population of Lower Canada is- 
estimated at about 200,000. 

The French Ca-nadiar>3 ore aiTvi^ble, cheerfuV and gay^r 



fend theit backwardness in improvements is attl'ibtitilblfe td 
the system under which they live. They are generally 
brought up in great ignorance, and they are taught to dis* 
like and avoid not only the Protestant principles, but Pro* 
testants themselves. In New-England, as is well known, 
the law provides for the instruction of every child, without 
exception i and every ehild is actually instructed. Books 
and newspapers, however, lose their effect as well as theit 
value among these peoplet Among those regions where 
English and Scotch have settled, instruction is gaining 
ground ; and in Montreal, tlie public schools are rising in 
importance; but it is to be feared that the Romish priests 
will long continue to oppose the extension of real know^ 
iedge, and that while they retain their influence) the cha- 
racter of the people will rettiain depressed. 

The " Procedure'''' of Canada is founded on the edict 
ef Louis 14th, of 1667, and is the basis of the Civil 
Code. There were no lawyers before the Conquest in 
1.759, when they were created 5 and mattial law pre-* 
vailed from that time till 1774. The trial by .Jury was 
introduced in 1785 ; and the Constitutional Charter in 
i7.91. 

The houses are generally of one story, and are built of 
wood or stone, according to the nature of the country. 
Some of thein are formed of squared timbers, and even 
of round logs ; but the latter are usually employed for the 
construction of barns onlyj which are often covered with 
thatch. The houses and barns are frequently compos- 
ed of several small buildings, erected at different pe-' 
riods, according to the capacity or necessities of the pro» 
prieiors. 

WiLUAM Henry, or Sorel, 
45 miles^ or 15 leagues from Montreal 

'^' This town, though quite small, is one of the principal 
places between the two capitals. It is on the south side 
of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Sorel, or 
Richelieu, in a very sandy situation ; and contains no* 
thing worthy of notice, except a little old church, a 
palisadoed fort) and a neat square, at the distance of 



HOUTE TO QUEBEC. 12S 

a short walk, surrounded with several pretty white 
houses, a church, &c. a little in the New-England style. 
The fences are generally low, and afford the sight of 
gardens. 

The Government House stands about three quarters of 
a mile beyond the town It is a large red building, with 
barracks near it. The boat turns round on leaving Sorel, 
and returns lo the St. Lawrence. 

On the opposite point, General Montgomery erected 
batteries on taking the place, in 1775, and prepared rafts 
and floating batteries, which maintained an engagement 
with the ships in which Governor Carleton attempted 
to escape to Quebec, and drove him back towards Mon- 
treal. He afterwards passed them in an open boat at 
night; but his vessels fell into the hands cf the Ame- 
ricans. 

Berthier is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, 
but out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some 
of the steamboats stop there instead of at Sorel. There 
is a ferry across. 

Lake St. Peter. Op entering this large tract of wa- 
ter, the shores at the opposite end appear like mere lines 
npon the horizon, and a vessel at the opposite end ap- 
pears like a mere speck, the length of the lake being 20 
miles. 

Point du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the north- 
ern shore, when nearly across ; but it is situated beyond 
the lake. A ridge of high land continues on the north, 
following the course of the river. 

Opposite Woodlands is Nicolet, 9 miles from Three 
Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and 
a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, 
founded by a Romish bishop of Quebec. 

Thriss Rivers, (Trois Rivieres,] Half Way. This 
is the largest town between Montreal and Quebec, and is 
96 miles from the former, and 84 from the latter. The 
streets are generally straight, and regularly built, though 
narrow ; and the houses, although neat, are generally only 
one or two stories high, with windows in the roofs, and, 
being principally plasiered, have rather a dark aspect, like 
those of Montreal. It contains shops of various sorts, 
and several iuns of a decent appearance. 



124 THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 

The Nunnery is in the east part of the town, and has 
extensive grounds connected with it. 

The Parish Church is in the south part of the town. 
Two large buildings, formerly the Court House and Jail, 
with the Nunnery, are the principal objects. 

While the American forces were on the retreat from 
Quebec, in 1775, General Sullivan sent General Thomp- 
son down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down 
the right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles from 
the town; but being discovered and misled, he found 
General Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. 
Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the battle, 
which immediately commenced, was short and disastrous 
to the assailants, who lost their commander, and many 
officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although they had few 
killed. After several hours we approach 

Le BiGNEux, a village on the south side of the river, 
known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep 
bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the commencement 
of the Richelieu rapids. 

The river here winds between broken banks, and the 
number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more 
animating. A few blue, but not lofty mountains, are seen 
down the river. 

Rapids of Richelieu. The river, which is about two 
miles wide, here runs with great velocity, particularly the 
first three miles ; but the water is deep, and the surface 
unbroken, except near the shores, which are lined with in- 
numerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely dan- 
gerous to vessels when they get among them. These 
rocks seem placed with much regularity, forming two 
ranges. Although the navigation of this part of the St. 
Lawrence requires great skill and caution in other vessels, 
steamboats pass with security; yet, on account of the 
force of the current at ebb tide, even they are obliged to 
vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as to 
have the flood through the rapids. Vessels are often seen 
waiting at the bottom of the rapids for a change of tide, 
or for a steamboat to tow them up. The rapids extend 
about 9 miles. 

St. Axtoine, on the south bank, is ISmiles, (6 leagues) 



ROUTE IN CANADA. 123 

from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north- 
east is that of Lorette, and the bank on ihat side makes 
a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by culti- 
vated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of wood- 
land ; on the side of the ridge, about midway from' 
the water to the top, passes the road. The south shore,^ 
On the contrary, continues high and abrupt and nearly 
perpendicular, with innumerable cottages peeping over the 
brow. 

PoLNTE Aux Trembles, a village on the north shore. 
The river is about the same breadth all along here, viz. 
about two miles, although it appears much narrower ; the 
depth is about 5 fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 15 feet. 
Notwithstanding the thickness of the population on the 
shores, the country is a wilderness only about four miles 
back, being comprehended in what is called the King's 
iluniing Ground, which extends from Three Rivers, 40' 
or 50 miles below this place. 

Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a 
village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the 
river of the same name, which is likewise distinguished 
by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- 
rence. Here are the remains of the first church in Ca- 
nada. 

Cakouge CREEk, on the north side. Here a pretty 
view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the 
north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at the 
distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beau- 
tiful land, and a range of fine mountains in the rear. 

Ckaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on 
the lower side, at its mouth. 

Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi 
is seen, covered with white buildings one of which is 
the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a 
considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to a 
greater and greater height, and present every variety of 
surface. 

Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was fought 
the final battle between the English and French in 1759, 
after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, which 
completed the conquest of Canada. 



126 '^itEBEC. 

Wolfe^s Cove is behind the next point. This id the 
place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up the preci- 
pitous bank he climbed with his Itoops, afterwards draw- 
ing up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold afterwards took 
lip his troops, in 1775. There is a remarkable rock pro- 
jecting- from the bank, at the head of the cove, a little 
to the right of, which is seen a road running up the 
hill, at the place where the troops went up, w-hen there 
was nothing but a foot path. 

Cape Diamond is, the abrupt bluff in which terminates 
the high land on the north, and under the opposite side 
of which Quebec is situated. It is 348 feet high ; and the 
fortified lines on its brow belong to the city walls, and the 
citadel-, which is included by them. The telcgi-aph is 
raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings 
on the ridge are Martello towers, which serve as advanced 
works to the fortress. The mountains of St. Anne and 
Tourmente appear many miles down the river. 

General Montgomery was killed just at the base of 
Cape Diamond, in attacking a block house on the shore, 
in 1775. 

Quebec. The Lower Town of Quebec begins near 
this spot, and stretches along at the foot of the rock, while 
the tipper Town soon begins to open to view above, though 
the principal part of it is on the top and the opposite side. 

The Castle oj tSL Louis, or the Governor's House, 
overhung this precipice, being built on supporters ; and 
ttiade a conspicuous appearance, interrupting the city 
Wall, which encloses the Upper Town. It has been burnt. 

But the current is too swift to allow much time for 
observation before arriving at the wharf, where the travel- 
ler will find servants in waiting from the principal public 
houses in the city: these are all in the Upper Town, the 
ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and labori- 
■■Dus, so that the stranger will want their assistance as 
guides. 

The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains 
no decent public houses. A.fter three or four turns, you 
begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and 
laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, which is 
Very massive, built in the old European style, of solid 
'stenc, very thick, with narrow passage woys for carriages 



QUEBECi I2f 

ahd footmen, and a guard chamber above, with loopholes 
for musketeers. On the right, after passing this gate, is 
a battery of heavy guns. The street which opens a little 
to the left leads into the midst of the city. 

A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of the 
city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning or event- 
ing, as it commands a fine view i but Cape Diamond the 
finest of all. 

It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first 
pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Mont^ 
morency, the village of Lorette, &c. which will be more 
particularly spoken of hereafter; and it will be found 
much better, on several accounts, to set out as early in 
the morning as possible. 

The walls of Quebec enclose the upper pal't of the hillj 
and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the 
space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowded. 

The French Parish Church stands at one end of the 
public square, facing the barracks, with the semmary on 
one side. The Church contains little that is remarkable^ 
the whole interior appearing rather ordinary, and the 
pictures having little to boast of: the principal of them 
are a Holy Family, an Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of 
Tongues, and Last Supper. 

The College, which stands a little to the right in com- 
ing out of the church, is a large stone building in which a 
considerable number of youth are educated by priests. 
They may be distinguished in the city by wearing the long 
black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to such in^ 
stitutions in Popish countries. 

The Chapel of the Seminary, which stands a little 
left from the principal gate, contains the best collection of 
pictures, it is said, in all Canada : beginning on the right 
hand near the door, is a picture of the Virgin Mary at* 
tended by angels, &c, in the first chapel on that side is a 
picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ; on the right, 
the Baptism of the Ethiopian, John's Baptism, St. .John J 
on the left, a portrait, St. Peter receiving the keys, infant 
Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church wall, next is a good 
picture, then the Ascension, and Interment of the Saviour^ 
and over the high altar, a Holy Family, and Dove de-^ 
scending ; what appears to be some priest's dream ; on the 

n 



128 PLACE D'aRMES. 

left side, is the Descent of Tongues, and an Angel visiting 
a saint in prison, e:ood; over the altar in the renlaining 
chapel, is the Baptism in the Wilderness, with a numbei' 
of poor pictures ; and in the chufch are an Evangelist^ 
Wise Men presenting Gifts, &c. 

In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, 
are two sculls, with several human bones, placed against 
red silk, which are regarded with superstitious reverence, 
as holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; a lamp is kept 
constantly burning under that on the left hand. 

The Barrachs are in a large stone building opposite 
the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' College : it 
is three and four stories high, forming an angle like an 
L, each side of which is about 200 feet long. Here are 
quartered the troops which garrison the city. Here were 
imprisoned the Americans captured in the attack on the 
city, in 1775. 

Convents. There are tvi^o convents in Quebec ; one of 
them has about 40 Ursulines, who have a large convent 
and church near the prison, in the west part of the city, 
and keep a large school for girls. The other convent is 
lower down, and contains a hospital for diseases of the 
lighter kinds ; while the most serious and severe are treat- 
ed at the nunnery near the St. Charles's River, about \^ 
miles above the town. These institutions, however, are 
not now open to visiters as they formerly were; at least it 
is generally impossible to gain access to them. 

The Arsenal is near the Palace gate, and contains 
about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with great regu- 
larity. 

The Place d^Armes is a small square on an elevated 
position, on which stood the Castle of St. Louis, the 
Governor's residence, which was burnt in 1834. Here is 
a building containing the Museum of the Society for pro- 
moting Literature, Science, Arts, and Historical Research 
in Canada. Here is also the Monument to Generals 
Wolfe and Montcalm, who fell in the battle on the Heights 
of Abraham. It is 65 feet high. 

The street beyond commands a fine view ; and there 
are several beautiful terraced gardens formed on the steep 
side of the rock, almost overhanging the buildings in the 
lower town. 



QUEBEC. 129 

The fortifications of the city on the land side are strong-, 
and worthy of particular attention. 

St. Louisas Gate is the highest of the city gates, and 
the street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads to 
the famous plains of Abraham. 

The Esplanade Battery lies between St. Louis and St. 
John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mortars, with 
magazines built where they could not be injured by an 
enemy's shot. The ground slopes in such a manner as to 
expose a large extent of country to view : the fine fertile 
plain beyond St. Charles' River, the beautiful ridge of 
lands beyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charlebourg- 
and others; the St. Lawrence on the right, with Point Le- 
vi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges of distant moun- 
tains. The mouth of the Montmorency can easily be dis- 
cerned, on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles 
from the city. That is the spot where the falls are to be 
seen, and the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an 
unsuccessful attack on the French General Montcalm, be- 
fore the capture of the city. 

Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the 
plan of the defences may be in part discerned, even by an 
unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing through 
the gate, the strength of the place will be better under- 
stood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other 
works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of 
stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in 
order to expose the approach to raking fires. The gate 
is of very heavy and durable masonry, and the passage 
through it is a dark arched way, about 55 feet long ; it is 
closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so placed as not 
to face each other. 

Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, about 
50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's gardens. 

The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place 
of impregnable strength. It has been gradually progress- 
ing for a number of years, and is expected to be soon 
completed. Admission may be usually obtained by appli- 
cation to the proper officers, and necessary information can 
be gained at the hotels. The British government intend- 
ed to devote £5000 per annum on these works ; but as the 



130 THE CITADEL. 

money was sometimes delayed, they were occasionally ex 
posed to some interruptions. Tliis citadel renders the city 
defensible against a large force. 

Most of the works are new, though some parts of the 
old have been made to serve. They include five or six 
acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and extend to 
the verge of the precipice, 1)48 feet above the St. Law- 
rence. There are four bastions and one demi-bastion, a 
ravelin, in advance of the western bastion, and other out- 
works. The walls are about 40 feet high, and built per 
pendicularly, of fine hewn stone ; the ditch being blasted 
out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. 

The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing be- 
hind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is discovered 
following the wall, built of substantial brick work, and 
arched over head with such strength as to be bomb proof. 
These rooms, which are known by the technical name of 
Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 16 or 18 
high, each with a door and two small windows, looking in- 
ward, and pierced at the other side, with five loop holes 
each, for musketry. These loop holes are on the new 
plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps faced with 
iron, to prevent musket shot from glancing in. There 
are about 40 casemates all towards the land side : the 
natural defence of the precipice over the water being 
sufficiently strong to pi'event the attempts of an enemy 
in that direction. The casemates communicate with 
each other by folding doors, which may be thrown open 
the whole length of the bomb-proofs, and will then fur- 
nish space for the whole garrison, (from 3000 to 5000 
men,) to parade at once. 

The Subterranean Passage leads from a little staircase 
in the bastion next east of the gate, under the ditch, to a 
small outwork with two or three casemated rooms. The 
stairs are narrow and spiral. At the corner next the river and 
town, is the old Cavaliers' Battery, a very heavy stone build- 
ing, originally erected for the palace of the French governors 
of Quebec: below it, at the water's edge. Gen. Mont- 
gomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six 
feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on the 
top is one of the finest vievvs that can be imagined: the 



Witiiid siiifface of the St. Lawrence liesbelow, and stretches 
ijff far to the right and left ; the whole city of Quebec is 
crowded together almost beneath you, v/hile Point Levi; 
\vith its white buildings) is seen opposite, with a long 
Etretch of lofty shores. Turning the eye in the opposite 
directionj the beautiful ridge of landj which begins many 
miles down the river On the northern side, and rises with 
a gentle swell from the shore, covered with the richest and 
most varied display of cultivation, offers a most delightful 
view over an extensive and fertile region^ beautiful in form^ 
divided into innumerable portions, cultivated by a dense 
and industrious population^ and scattered with their clus^ 
tered dwellings. On the left, appears^ among other vil= 
lages, that of Lorettej with the Montreal road for nine 
miles, almost lined with houses 5 and on the light that of 
Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high ground, while a 
little beyond it) is the chasm into which the River Mont- 
morency plunges, with its famous cataract, just before it 
joins the St. Lawrence \ all the horizon in that direction;; 
and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the 
east, is broken by ranges of fine mountainsj sOme of them 
near and bold, and in other places^ between theiri, distant 
blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession* 
Tsononthuan Mountain^ which has two summits and is 
SOOO feet high in the northwest, is the southern extreme 
of the granite range reaching from the Labrador coast td 
Lake Superior. In the south and southwest, where an 
aperture is left} is a distant and lower range, scattered 
■^ith cottagesi It may, perhaps, not be hazarding too 
ihuch to ssLy, that no scene in Canada, or the United States^ 
can boast of a conlbination of objects, comparable in va^ 
riety and magnificence to those here presented to viewi 

There is a long staircase of many steps, leading from 
this elevated position down to the Lower Town, by 
Vi'hich it was originally intended to draw up heavy arti-^ 
cles. 

The Plains of Ahraliarn. — This interesting tract ot 
ground, the field where Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold 
and decisive blow in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759^ 
lies at only about the distance of a mile, and should not bd 
ileglected. Indeed it would be found amply to repay the 

15* 



Io2 tiElGMfS OF AfiRAHAMi 

trouble, to make a much longer excursion in that directiotl^ 
ias the road is fine and the country interesting.* 

Passing out at St. Louis's Gate, you observe a numbef 
of handsome dwellings and gardens by the road sidej 
Until you get some distance beyond the towers, when yoU 
turn into the Race Course on the left side of the toad^ 
The foundation of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm 
was laid in 1827. The spot where Gen. Wolfe fell i^ 
neat* the corner of the fenced field, off towards the river,. 
A little east of the place, is the remnant of a breast„work 
Math several angles, and commanding a fine view. The 
British line was first formed across the plain, and the bat" 
tie was fought principally on that ground. 

The Plains of Abraham afe about a quarter of a mile 
in breadth, extending a great distance towards the west, 
■with a gentle slope on each side, and so smooth as to offef 
an admirable field for the manoeuvering and display of 
troops. 

Wolfe^s Co'Ve is about a mils further west* 

* After the battle of Montmorency, while the English fleet lay up 
the river, at one o'clock in the night of September 12th, lt59. Gen. 
Wolfe quietly transporter! his troops from the fleet into the boats^ 
and cautiously passed down the river. He intended to l;ind two or 
three miles above Cape Diainond, and get possession of the Heights 
of Abraham : but was drifted down so rapidly that he passed the 
place without discovering it, and then resolved to attempt a land- 
ing at Wolfe's Cove, just above the city. The shore is bold and the 
rocks so high and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted 
along the precipices and the margin. This desperate enterprise 
however did not discourage the leader or his troops 5 but an houi" 
before day break they had effected their landing, and commenced 
the arduous asce,nt by a narrow, broken path, at the top of which 
was stationed a captain's guard. As fast as the English reached 
the summit they formed on ihe level plain. 

At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle was 
fought, which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm stationed 
1500 sharp shooters in front, hut the British coolly stood theii* 
ground till the French were within 40 yard.s, When they opened 
tlieirfire, and soon afterwards terminated the engagement with 
their bayonets. The place where the greatest Carnat'e was made^ 
is near the river's bank, where the English left was clo.-sely en- 
gaged with the French right. The action lasted two hours, and 
in it both ciiiefs received their mortal wonnds. Gen. Wolfe wag 
shot in two or three places, When hardly any signs of life re* 
mailed, news was brought tliat the day had declared for the Bri-» 
liah, '* Then," said hoj ** 1 dio content?'* 



§1egE 0$"' Quebec. In 1775, soon after the commence-' 
Jnent of the revolutionj the Continental Congress prepared 
an expedition against Canada It consisted of two divi^ 
sions 5 one under Gen. Montgomery carne down Lake 
Champlain and took St. John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three 
Rivers, and then proceeded down the St. Lawrence to 
this place. The other; under Gen. Arnold, took the route 
through the wilderness of Maine for Quebec. 

Arnold had 10 companies of infantry, besides 3 of rifle" 
men, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers^ They 
proceeded up the Kennebeck, but suffered so much frorri 
fatigue and scarcity that many fell sick, and one division 
returned. The remainder, however, reached Point Levi 
on the 9th of No%'ember, and alarmed the city. The 
batteaux had been removed, and the strong wind detained 
them from, crossing, after they had been supplied by the 
Canadians. The English frigate Lizard and several 
other vessels v/ere also in the river. He at length, how-» 
ever, effected, a landing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and 
marching down the shore climbed Up the rocks at that 
place, and surrounded the city without effect. He then 
Retired 20 miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited for" 
Gen. Montgomery, who arrived, after great trials, Decj 
1st, with about 300 men. 

The two generals afterwards marched to Quebec, and 
planting their mortars on the Snow and ice, fired into the 
town with little effects The small pox broke out, and the 
cold was severe ; but the town was attacked at four points 
at once, in a snow storm, without success. Montgomery 
was killed, one detachment was taken, and Arnold retired 
three miles and intrenched himself. 

The Falls of Mohtmop.ency. Hire a coach, a gig; 
a. caleche, or a saddle horse, and set out, if possible, early 
in the morning. In a caleche, you will ha.ve the a;dyantage 
of a guide in your driver. Pass through the Palace gate 
and a village divided from Quebec only by the wall, cross 
the bridge over St. Charles' river^ which forms a regular 
serpentine, and enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond^ 
A Convent and Hospital are seen about a mile on the leftj 
and a handsome succession of fields is observed on both 
sides, divided by low palings. At the distance of a mile 
and a half the road passes seyeral country bouses. 



tS'i STALLS OF MOKTMORliNct. 

Riding down the coast, at a considerable dlevaflofJ 
from the river, many fine views arfe presented of the oppo* 
site banks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St Anne 
and Tourmente down the rirer. The dwellings are small; 
and the inhabitants poor and numerous. 

BeauPort is a village principally composed of such 
buildings, stretching for a great distance along the toad. 

On approaching the Montmorency, the road crosses an 
extensive, smooth and gradual ascent, part of which was 
the field of a bloody slaughter, suffered by a division of 
Gen. Wolfe's army in 1759, a short time previous to his 
battle on the Heights of Abraham. 

The French lines were bounded by the nearer bank, as 
the remains of theit' intrenchments on the left still testify; 
and the British came up from the shore of the St. Law-i 
rence on the right, t o attack two of their nearest batteries 
before the second of which they were cut to pieces. 

Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses; 
you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the Mont-' 
morency, by a foot path, to see the falls frorrl this side, 
As it is a difficillt way, and the view more fine and unob- 
structed from the opposite side, it is hardly worth the trou- 
ble, unless you have plenty of time. You have to clamber 
rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on the verge of 
an abyss into which the cataract dashes. Water is drawn 
off here in a wooden race, for the supply of Mt. Patter's 
sou's great Saw^mills^ which are worthy of being visited.' 

It is better therefore to folio v/ the foad on foot, to cross* 
the bridge, and entering the fields on the right, follow 
down the course of the river- There are several fine 
points of view, from which the falls appear to great ad-" 
vantage. 

On the fine elevated point formed by the junction of the 
two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed view upon 
the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, with 
several lofty mountains below, the Isle of Orleans oppo- 
site, Quebec above, and the catara'^t close at hand^ the 
British here took a strong position in July, 1759 ; and 
from this place made a bold, but unsuccessful attempt 
against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains 
of their intrenchments are plainly visible under our feet< 

The best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from the 



QUEBEC. 135 

spur of the I'ock, which projects fi-om the eastern shore ; 
but the spray, which keeps the surface covered with a 
coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. 

The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and the 
banks on both sides below forms a precipitous and fright- 
ful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, 
slaty rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and 
the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. and S. E. At 
low water the Montmorency may be forded, with some 
caution, where it was passed by the British troops; but 
the tide rises fasit and high. 

Battle of Montmorency. When General Wolfe 
came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, lie posted 
his army on the island of Orleans while the fleet block- 
aded the port. At the end of that month General Monck- 
ton was sent over to Point Levi, and established himself 
there, vyhence he was able to fire upon the city. Above 
the River Montmorency, the landing was protected by 
the Marquis de Montcalm. General Wolfe landed his 
troops at the mouth of the Montmorency during the night 
of July 31st, and erected a battery on the precipice north- 
east of the falls, the remains of which are to be seen. 
The French were intrenched along the opposite bank ; 
and on the 31st of July, General Wolfe sent his troops 
to ford the Montmorency below the falls, to storm their 
works. Some of General Monckton's force from Point 
Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty 
ensued; but the landing was made in the afternoon on 
the beach to the right of the saw mills. They came, 
however, too late ; for the thirteen grenadier companies 
with 200 Americans, who had landed before, refused to 
wait or to form, as had been intcHded in four columns, 
but marched tumultuously round the rock, and rushed up 
hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance 
back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been 
deserted. A warm fire, however, was directed against 
them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were 
obliged toretreatto the redoubt, whence they were ordered 
back to the beach to form. The enterprise was then in- 
terrupted by a severe storm, and finally abandoned. 

The Village of Lorette may be taken in the way 



136 LAKE CHAMPLAIK. 

returning fronri Montmorency, if there should be time 
enough remaining, (which is barely possible,) and the 
ride along the high ridge leading in that direction, will be 
found delightful. Lorette is an Indian village, with a 
church, and the stranger may furnish himself with a* jcca- 
sins, belts, pipes, &.c. 

Land Route from Quebec to Montreal. 

Upper Road. 

(The pieasanter.) 1st post, Lorette 16 miles, 2d 
Jacques Carlier 16, 3d Descharnbeaux 16, 4th St. Anne 
16, 5th Batiscamp 8, 6ih Champlain 9, Tth Aux Cayes 8, 
8th Trois Rivieres 6. 

Lower Road. 

1st post, Cape Rouge 9 miles, 2d St. Augustine 9, 3d 
Pointe aux Trembles 8, 4th Ecureil 9, 5th Cape Sante 9. 

(Garneau's inn, called " The Three Sisters,^^ is ex- 
cellent.) 

6th Descharnbeaux, &c. 8. 

ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. 

Steamboat. Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape 
Diamond, nearly at the foot of which General Mont- 
gomery was killed in 1775. 

Wolfe^s Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 132. 

Rapids of Richelieu, page 124. Three Rivers, page 
123. Lake St. Peter. William Henry or Sorel, page 
122. Montreal, page 114. 

From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and the 
United States. 

Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. Isle aux Noix 
10 miles, Rouse's Point 11, Chazy 12, Pittsburgh 15, 
Port Kent 8, Burlington 10, Charlotte, Essex 15, Port 



ROUTE FROM CANADA. 137 

Clinton 10, Dalliba's Works, Port Henry 9, Chimney 
Point 12, Ticonderoga 15, Whitehall 25. 

On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much 
narrower. 

The Four Channels. Fourteen miles from White- 
hall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into four narrow- 
passages, between tv>/o ranges of mountains, which in 
some places present perpendicular precipices ; and its bed, 
at low water, appears almost entirely occupied by a little 
meadow of the brightest green, through which the chan- 
nels wind with beautiful turnings. 

A succession of beautiful little turnings are passed, 
with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level 
ground on the margin of the water ; while, on the eastern 
side, the tow path accompanies the bank. 

South Bay opens to the souih, and runs down five 
miles between high mountains. General Dieskau took 
this route with his army, in goino- towards Fort Edward, 
in 1755. 

The Devil's Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of 
a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek. 

The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two 
very short turns, through which the passage requires a very 
exact helm. 

East Bay strikes oif at the first bend, and makes up 
five miles, along a romantic country. A sugar loaf hill 
will be observed at a little distance on the right, which 
rises above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that 
place quite picturesque. 

Whitehall. On the top of a rock over the harbour 
was formerly a battery, and in the town a block house. 
Numerous boats and great quantities of lumber are usually 
seen here, as the Champlain or Northern Canal begins at 
the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a 
rocky channel. 

The heights at this place were occupied by Burgoyne's 
right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Sa- 
ratoga ; his centre was formed by General Frazer; the 
Brunswickers on the left, rested on the river of Castleton; 
and the Hessians were at the head of East Bay. 



138 ilOUTE FROM CANADA. 

To Albany, by canal packet or stagecoach, 68 m> 
Fort Anne, 12 ; Fort Edward, 9 ; kei-e a coach passes to 
Saratoga Springs ; Fort Miller, 8 ; Schuylersville, 6 ; 
British Lines, 7 ; (see page 78) ; Passing Behmis'a 
Heights, Stillwater, 8 ; Borough, 3 ; Waterford,* 8^. 
Hence railroads lead to Ballston and Troy. 

The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, 
which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its nar- 
rowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This 
creek is famous in the history of the operations in this 
region during the revolutionary and French wars ; and 
after repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c. by 
which it was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against 
Canada, &c. which often passed by this route, from the 
days of Queen Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though 
rough ; and there is little cultivation off the road. 

Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood 
Creek makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near that 
there is but little space for the road between. Here 
Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the retreat from Ti'conde 
roga, in 1777, by Burgoyne's troops, and an engagement 
took place, memorials of which are occasionally found in 
the soil to this day. A little south, on the brow of the 
hill, a quarter of a mile from the stagehouse, stood Fort 
Anne, in the revolution. 

The old fort of the same name, built many years pi-e-" 
viously, and known in the French wars, was about half 
a mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a little 
east of the road, where some remains of the old in- 
trenchments are still to be seen. 

The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two 
miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are 
traced about three fourths of a mile, near the present 
road to a wood. It was formed of logs, and found ne^ 
cessarj" to render the country passable with his cannon 
and baggage wagons. The labour necessary for its f )r- 
mation, superadded to that of cleai-ing Wood Creek of 
the obstructions which Gen. Schuyler had thrown into 

* Saddle Mountain, whose lofty ridge will be seen from almost 
every point in this vicinity, is 2,800 I'cet higlier th:in the hite of 
Williams' College. It derives its name from its resemblance to 
a riding saddle. 



FORT EBWARD. 13^ 

it after the retreat of the Americans, was one great 
cause of the delay of the British army, on this part of 
the road— a delay which allowed the people time to re- 
sume their spirits, and the officers to lay plans, obtain 
resources, and prepare for the sanguinary scenes at Beh- 
mis's Heights, and the surrender at Saratoga. 

French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with 
a succession of high grounds in the direction of South 
Bay, Lake George, &c. 

About half a mile above Fort Edward, is the place 
where was perpetrated 

The Murder of Miss McCrea. Miss McCrea lived in 
the village of Fort Edward. In the revolutionary war, a 
young man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, 
having attached himself to the English cause, and joined 
their forces in Canada, was invested with a captain's 
command in Gen. Burgoyne's army. After the retreat 
of the Americans from the lake, and while the British 
were approaching, he sent a party of Indians to Fort 
Edward to bring his intended bride to him, that he might 
secure her safety. She was very unwilling to proceed 
with her savage conductors on the road towards Fort 
Anne ; and had gone only half a mile when the Indians 
stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the 
way side; and while here were met by another party of 
Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who came 
last attempted to take her under their charge ; but the 
others, being determined not to give her up alive, bound 
her to a tree that is yet standing near the spring, and shot 
her dead with their muskets. Locks of her hair were 
borne to her lover to prove that the Indians had performed 
what they considered their duty to their employer. 

This story rang through the country ; and it was re- 
ported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged or at least per- 
mitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the 
charge ; and there appears no probability that he had 
the least knowledge of it. He, however, was justly 
chargeable with a great offence against humanity, in 
bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barbarity he 
could never be sure of restraining. 

Fort Edward. This village was built in the neigh" 
bourhood of a fort raised during the war of 1755, for the 

13 



140 rORT MILLER. 

defence of this point of the river. It was first called Fort 
Lyman, after Gen. Lyman, of whom we have already had 
occasion to make honourable mention at Lake George. 
This spot was formei'ly called the First Carrying Place, 
being the point where, in the expeditions against Canada, 
the troops, stores, &c. were landed and taken to Wood 
Creek, a distance of twelve miles, where they were again 
embarked. 

Baker^s Falls, at Sandy Hill, are worthy of particu- 
lar attention, and are' seen to great advantage from some 
parts of the bank. The whole descent of the river at 
this place is about 75 feet. 

Fort Miller. The village still retains the name of a 
fort erected on the west side of the river, in former times. 
It was a work of insignificant si2;e, situated on the bank 
and near 

^filler's Falls. The descent of the river here is rapid, 
and over a broken channel. The falls were formerly con- 
sidered impassable with safety, until Gen. Putnam per- 
formed it while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French 
war. 

The Great Dam. Above Fort Edward, a large and 
expensive dam 900 feet long, has been built across the 
river, and a canal cut along the bank to open a passage for 
boats^ [For places on any route selected by the traveller, 
see the Index.] 

TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 

To Travellers going Eastward from New- York. 

It is recommended to the stranger v/ho is travelling 
eastward to see the country, to determine on some plan for 
his journey before setting out. Steamboats go from New- 
York to the following places on the northern shore of Long 
Island Sound : Greenwich, Norwalk, Stamford, Bridge- 
port,* Stratford, New-Haven, Connecticut River, (and up 
that to Hartford,) New-London, (and Norwich,) Newport, 
(and Providence.) 

* The Honsalonic Railroad, from Bridgeport, Conn., to meet the 
Berkshire Railroad on the Massachusetts liue, is already complete 



TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 141 

EAST RIVER. 

Leaving New-York in any of the East River steamboats^ 
the traveller has Brooklyn on the right, now the second city 
for size in the state, elevated, well built, shady and health- 
ful. 

The Navy Yard, just beyond. 

The Railway, for ships, is above, on the v/est side. 

The Penitentiary, and the Fever Hospital, are a little 
beyond. The Penitentiary on Blackwell's Island, the 
Poor House Farm opposite, and the Lunatic Hospital on 
the north end of it. 

From Hell Gate, on the distant high ground, west, is 
seen the Lunatic Asylum ; and a number of handsome 

to New Milford, 35 miles, and is to befinished-in 1841. It'will be 73 
miles from the Sound to Massachusetts. The Berkshire Railroad 
will connect it with the Great Western Railroad, at West Stock- 
bridge. Begun 1S37, estimated cost, a million — has an embankment 
and a tunnel, maximum'grade 40 feet per mile, a minimum curva- 
ture 1000 feet radius. From Bridgeport to West Stockbridge, 95 
miles — to Albany 133. 

The road to New-Haven passes through Harlem on Manhattan 
Island, West Chester, East Chester, New-Rochelle, Mamaronec, 
and Rye, in the State of New-York; and Greenwich, Stamford, 
Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, Milford, and 
Orange in Connecticut 

In the town of Greenwich, 33 miles from New-York, is a steep 
hill descending towards the north, down which General Putnam 
once effected his escape from several British officers and soldiers 
during the revolutionary war, when returning from a scout. Ha 
drove his horse hastily down the rocky hill side, a little east of the 
road, and near the fence, and saved so much distance as to elude 
his pursuers. 

Tn the town of Fairfielcf, 53 miles from New-York, a mile or two 
before reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground on tho 
right hand side of the road, which was formerly an almost impene- 
trable swamp, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene 
of a bloody slaughter. It was hither that the remains of a powerful 
and terrible nation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from 
their country about New-London and Groton, after the destruction 
of their fort at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 1636, were either killed 
or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and extin- 
guished their name as a nation. Much of the ground has been 
cleared in modern times ; and some reliques have been found to 
confirm the traditions of the neighbourhood. 

This place was burnt by the British in the revolution. Danbury, 
an inland town, was also burnt, with extensive public stores, and 
an action was fought in which Gen. Wooster fell. 



142 NEW-HAVEN. 

country houses along the green shore on the left. The 
surface is broken by several rocks, and by the agitation of 
the water, particularly at the whirl called the Great Pot, 
a little north of the point, and the rapid current on the oppo- 
site shore, known by the name of the Hog's Back. In coming 
from the north, almost the first view of New-York is here 
presented, between the western shore and Blackwell's Isl- 
and, with a shot tower on the right. 

New-Haven. — This is decidedly one of the most beau- 
tiful towns in the United States. The soil is not very good, 
and the situation is low ; the city is laid out in squares, 
with straight and broad streets, and the elevated ground 
in the neighbourhood renders the approach very fine from 
almost every direction. It stands at the head of a spa- 
cious bay, with a light house on the eastern point, a small 
battery on the shore, and two Bluffs, called^East and West 
Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant 
peak is seen between them, which is Mount Carmel. The 
Long wharf is three quarters of a mile in length. The 
steamboats stop at the bridge, where Railroad cars for 
Hartford, and carriages will be found in waiting to take 
travellers to the centre of the town, which is more than 
a mile distant. 

Near the bridge, is the Steamboat Hotel. The streets 
are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is 
a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three churches 
and the State House in the middle, and the College build- 
ings, occupying the western side, presenting a scene pro- 
bably not equalled by any town of this size in the United 
States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and 
beauty of the dwellings, the good society of the place, and 
the distinguished position it holds as a seat of learning, 
render New- Haven the resort of a great number of stran- 
gers during the travelling season, and the temporary resi- 
dence of not a few. 

There is a Hopkins Grammar School in the town, and 
a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies. 

Yale College. This institution, however, is the prin- 
cipal object which will attract the attention of the stran- 
ger. It was founded in 1701, commenced at Killing- 
worth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few years 
permanently fixed in this town. The first building was of 



fOUR OF NEW-EKGLANDi 14^ 

y>fOQ6.j and stood near the corner of College and Cbapel- 
streets. There are now four buildings for students, eacfe 
containing 32 rooms, a Chapel, with a Philosophical 
chamber and apparatus, and a Lyceum, with recitation 
rooms and the library. In the rear are the Trumbull Pic" 
ture Gallery, the Common's Hall, in a small building with 
the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is the 
finest collectionof the kind in the United States,purchase(i 
from the late Colonel Gibbs, of New-York. In another 
building isthe CbemicalLaboratory, where Professor Silli-' 
man delivers his lectures. The institution eontains above' 
500 scholars- 

Next north of the College is the honse of President 
Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in ther 
town. 

The Medical InstituUon is at the north end of College^ 
street. 

The New BaRYiNcr Ground is situated opposite the 
Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of lano",. 
partly planted with poplars, and containing a great num-^ 
ber of beautiful monuments, of different designs. It is 
one of the most beautiful cemeteries in this country. 

The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of til's 
green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are to 
be seen twa ancieat stone monuments, of a small size^ 
which are •uppo'sed to marlc the gra7es of two of the re^ 
gicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although there is 
some doubt on the subject. (See Stiles' Judges.) 

The Farmington Canal, commencing near the head o-f 
the wharf in this city, is crossed by the traveller in going 
up frotn the steamboat, near the market. The basin i.s- 
large and commodious; and the canal, passing through s 
part of the city, and bending round along the outskirts,. 
on the north side, intersects several streets, by which i? 
is crossed on handsome bridges. With a gradual ascent^ 
the canal passes somewhat circuitously up the valley which 
opens towards Mount Carmel, between East and West 
Rocks ; and one of the stage roads to Hartford, which 
passes through Cheshire and Farmington, affords many 
Tiews of it in different places. 

There are pleasant rides in various' directions frons 
13* 



144 mew-havew. 

New-Haven^ the roads being numerous, and the face of 
the country favourable. The two mountains command 
extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing, 
the excursion is recommended to those who are fond of 
Buch enterprises. 

The .luDCEs' Cave is on the summit of West Rock^ 
about a mile north of the bluff j and the way to it leads 
near Beaver Pond and Pine Rock, (on the south side of 
which is a small cave,) then between Pine and West 
Rocks. You here turn of!" the road to the left, by a path 
across a brook; and a guide may usually be obtained at 
a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to 
the summit. 

The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large 
rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion. 
It is small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, 
like a column ^ on each hand. That on the right contains 
this inscription'^^ 

" Opposition to Tyrants is obedience to God,'* 

tto remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter 
to Goffe and Whalleyi two of the judges of King Charles 
the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted them* 
tselves for some time in this solitary place. They were 
supplied with food by a family which resided near the 
foot of the rriOuntain> and a little boy was despatched foi? 
them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a 
rock, without knowing what cause he was subserving. 
The place commands an extensive view upon the coun- 
try below, with a large tract of Long Island, and the 
Sound. 

The Manufactory of Moskets is 2 miles north of 
New-Ha"en, on the road to Hartford by Meriden, and at 
the foot o( East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whit* 
ney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Jin. 

The New-Haven and Hartford Railroad^ 40 miles 
long, begins at the steamboat wharf, avoids the city, 
crosses Quinnepiack river, and passes through the town* 
ships of North Hav<sn> Wallingford, Meriden, Berlin and 
"Wethersfield. 




X>. SJltvoo/i JcMYT 



tOUR OF NEW-ESGLANB. 145 

ft pursues the general course of " the old colonial 
¥oad," the route taken in early time? between New-Ha- 
Ven and Hartford, which were independent colonies. It 
was originally an Indian trail. It unfortunately avoids 
most of the villages in its neighbourhood, so that the tra- 
veller who wishes to see them should take some other 
Toad, through either Middletown or Farmington. (For 
those places see Index.) 

Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound lies a clus- 
ter of islands called the Thimbles, famous in the tradi- 
tions of the neighbouring Connecticut coast, as the ancient 
resort of Capt, Kidd, a notabb pirate, whose treasures of 
solid gold, i^ is still believed by some, are concealed some- 
where hereabouts. 

We shall here leave Long Island Sound to proceed up 
Connecticut River, and only refer the reader to the Index 
for an account of the coast beyoud, and the following 
subjects and places : New-London, the Thames, Nor^ 
wich, the Mohegans, the Pequods, Saccacus's Fort, 
Stoninglon, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett shore, New- 
port, Providence, &c. 

Saybrook, Connecticut. At this place was the 
first settlement made by Europeans on Connecticut river. 
It was done at the earnest solicitation of many of the 
rightful proprietors of the country un its banks, who had 
been despoiled of their possessions by their formidable 
enemies, the Pequods. The River Indians, as our old 
•histories usually denominate the former, twice made ap- 
plication to the English at Plymouth and at Boston, to 
obtain settlers from their native soil, offering to give them 
land enough, and to pay 200 beaver skins annually for 
the benefit of their society. But the undertaking was 
■considered too hazardous, and it was not until the year 
1635, when the Dutch at New-York showed a determi- 
nation to seize upon the country, which they claimed as 
their own, that a small detachment of men was sent from 
Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade with the 
Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of the river. 
Their haste was soon justified by events: for immediately 
after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered, and proceed- 
ing up to Harijford, landed a bedy of men, who soon esta- 



146 CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

blished themselves in a fort they called Good Hope, on 
a spot they obtained from Pequod usurpers. 

The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant 
made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by 
George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his 
family- The old fort stood near the present fort hill, 
upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the 
waves; and the ground immediately behind it was after- 
wards occupied by the fields and habitations of the colo- 
nists It was expected from the first, that the situation 
would render the place a great city ; and after the fear of 
the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula, which 
bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the 
greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, except sueh 
parts as were reserved for the erection of public buildings^ 
Many emigrants were once collected in England, and 
prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons of 
high rank and importance were among them, and it is a 
well-authenticated fact, that Oliver Cromwell had deter- 
mined to embark in the enterprise, and was once on the 
very eve of quitting Englan<l for ever, when some un- 
foreseen occurrence prevented him. 

The want of a harbour, and the obstacles presented to 
a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of the 
river, have efl'ectually prevented the expectations of the 
settlers of Saybrook from being realized; and no remaiits 
of their works can now be discovered, except in the rec- 
tangular forms of the fields, and the cellars of some of 
their dwelling-R, just beyond the burying ground, the 
foundation stones of which have since been employed in 
building the neighbouring fences. One of the largest 
excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old col- 
lege building. The soldiers were frequently attacked 
within a short distance of the fort by the Pequods, but 
they afterwards ran a palisade across the isthmus which 
leads from the mam land. Yale College was placed 
here for a time. 

Connecticut River. The shores present a con- 
tinued succession of hilly and picturesque country, with 
few interrnptiong of level land, from a little above Say- 
brook as far as Middletown, The loughuess aiad rock/ 



TOPR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 147 

nature of the soil prevent the cultivation of many moun- 
tainous tracts : yet there are farms enough to give a con- 
siderable degree of softness to the scenery. The variety 
of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches 
of cultivated ground, and the habitations scattered along 
the river, is very agreeable, and often affords scenes high- 
ly picturesque and delightful. 

Essex, 7 miles from Saybrook, formerly called Petti- 
paug, is a small village, situated on the ascent and sum- 
mit of a handsome elevation. During the late war with 
Great Britain, this place was taken by the enemy, who 
came up the river in launches, and taking the inhabitants 
by surprise, occupied the town for a few hours. 

East Haddam. The landing place here is rocky, 
mountainous and wild, and a good specimen «f a large 
portion of the town to which it belongs. The late Gen. 
Champion's house, built among the rocks above, adds 
much to the appearance of the place. This region is 
famous for a kind of earthquakes and subterranean sounds^ 
which were formerly common for a short distance round. 
They gave occasion to many superstitious reports, but 
Lave ceased within a few years. They were called Moo- 
dus Noises, after the Indian name of the place. Large 
beryls are found in the neighbourhood, and many other 
minerals interesting to the scientific traveller. 

Haddam is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, 
which appears like the remains of an old bank of the river, 
•descending to a little meadow which is covered with 
orchards, grazing ground, &c. while a range of com- 
manding hills rise beyond. 

HiGGENUM is one of the little landing places so numer- 
ous along the river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. 

Middle Haddam, 2 miles. This is a pleasant country 
village, stretching along a hill covered with orchards and 
house lots, and backed by higher and wilder eminences* 
It is about 6 miles below Middletown. 

The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly to the 
west, and flows between two lofty hills, which it has 
divided at some long past period, before which, there is 
every reason to believe, the country for a great distance 
above was covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of 
ihig place, there is the appearance of an old channel^, 



148 MIDDLETOVVN. 

where tiae water probably ran, at a great height above its 
present level. 

The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern 
bank of the river, near two or three old houses. (See a 
Utile beyond.) 

Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern bank. 
It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Souheag, an 
Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the present 
towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wethersfield. The 
large buildings on the hill in Middletown belong to the 
Wesleyan University. 

MiBDLETowN is beautifully situated on the western 
bank of the river, where the water is spread out to a con- 
siderable breadth, and disappears so suddenly at the Nar- 
rows that from many points of view, it has the appearance 
of a small lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shqres. 
This is a most agreeable residence. 

The Wesleyan University has a building 150 feet 
long, 50 broad, and 4 stories high, with rooms for scholars ; 
a chapel with recitation rooms above, both of stone; and 
an eating hall of brick, 120 feet long, with a piazza. 

The Quarries of Freestone, on the opposite shore, 
liave furnished a valuable building material for some years 
and have been worked to a considerable extent. 

There are various pleasant rides in this neighbourhood, 
particulai'Iy to two picturesque waterfalls in Middlefield. 
In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where 
the road is shaded for near half a mile with those shrubs, 
which, in the season, are covered with flowers. The en- 
virons of this place afford other agreeable rides. There 
are various manufactures carried on here. 

T/ie Lead Mine is about two miles below the town on 
the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot or in 
a boat, where are several old shafts, which were sunk in 
the I'evolutionary war, in a slate rock. The ore is sulphu- 
ret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly crystallized, and af- 
fording a few specimens of fluate of lime, and other mine- 
rals. 

The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham, 
at the foot of Rattle Snake Hill. It is not worth work- 
ing, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of peach- 
bloom of Cobalt may be picked up among the rubbish. 



TOUR OF NEW-EKfiTLAXD. 149 

Just southerly from it is a very pretty waterfall, about 
thirty feet high. 

Wethersfield, 3 miles from Hartford. This place 
has a fine light soil, on an extensive level, probably once 
the bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of 
the river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the cul- 
ture of onions, which are exported in great quantities to 
various parts of the country, the West Indies, &c. 

Wethersfield was the second settlement made by white 
men in Connecticut. In 1635, three or four men came to 
this place and spent the winter. 

The Connecticut State Prison. The situation of this 
inslkution is healthy, retired, and convenient to the water 
and the great road. It was completed in 1817. What 
have heretofore been regarded as the necessary evils of 
prisons, will here be found greatly reduced ; and, in many 
respects, even with regard to the prisoners, converted into 
benefits. 

Here the Auburn system has been established with 
some few deviations. 

The whole is under the direction of Mr. Pilsbury, a 
man of firmness, judgment and humanity. The men are 
brought out to their work at signals given by the bell. 
They lodge in solitary cells, and are not permitted to con- 
verse together while at work. They take their food in 
their ceils, and when going to and from work or prayers, 
are obliged to march with the lock step. No blows are 
allowed to be given by the officers except in self-defence. 

The Smiths' fires are supplied with Lehigh (Pennsyl- 
vania) coal for fuel ; and part of the heat is conducted 
away in pipes to warm the apartments. The cells are 
furnished with comfortable beds and bed clothes, and a 
bible for each. They are ranged in rows, and the keepers 
can look into them tlirough grated doors ; at the same 
time the prisoners are not able to converse with each 
other. The effects of evil communication, so much and so 
banefully cherished in our old prisons, are thus effectually 
prevented. Neither officers nor convicts are allowed to 
use ardent spirits. 

Hartford. Inns. The City Hotel, Coffee House, 
&c. 

This 13 the semi-capital of the state, and a place of con- 
siderable business. 



I5(? HARTFOKI>. 

The Charter OaJc. In the lower part of the town, m 
the street which runs east from the south church, is the 
ancient and respectable seat of the Wyllis family, who 
were among the early settlers of Hartford, and have made 
a conspicuous figure in the history of the state, as well 
as of the town, by supplying the Secretary's office for a 
long course of time. This place is now owned by Mr. 
Bulkley, and has undergone considerable changes. The 
principal object of curiosity here is, however, the fine old 
oak, which stands on the street in front. It is said to 
have been a forest tree before the land was cleared', yet 
it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole in its 
trunk was hidden the charter of the colony, when Sir 
Edmund Andross sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there it 
remained for some 3'ears. 

This interesting document is still preserved in the office 
of the Secretary of the state. 

The Asylum for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb 
is about a mile west of the town, on Tower Hill. It was 
the eai-liest institution of the kind in America. 

The principal building is large, ornamented with pila.s- 
ters,^ and surrounded by a garden and pleasant grounds. 
The house of the superintendent is nearby, and the whole 
enjoys a fine situation with a commanding prospect and a 
healthy neighbourhood. 

The number of scholars is about ISO'. Some of them 
are supported by a fund belonging to the institution, and 
others by the states of Massachusetts, New-Hampshire, 
(fee. Similar institutions exist in New-York, Philadelphia, 
and Kentucky. 

The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the 
city, and makes a handsome appearance, being a stone 
building 150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having 
three stories, and the main building four. It is capable 
of containing about fifty patients, and is warmed by fiues» 
The grounds connected with the institution include about 
seventeen acres. 

Washington College is situated west of the main street, 
in the south part of the town. It is an Episcopal insti" 
tution, and has two stone buildings, one for the students, 
150 feet long, four stories high, with accommodations for 
96 pupils ; and a chapel, which has also rooms for recila- 



KOUTE UF CONNECTICUt RIVER. 151 

tion, tlie library, &c. Fourteen acres of land belong to 
the institution, part of which are devoted to the garden 
with its greenhouse. There is a fine stone bridge across 
Little River, and a wooden one over the Connecticut. 
See also the Statehouse, and Young Men's Institute. 

[^Montevideo, the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, Esq. en- 
joys a charming situation on a mountain nine miles west- 
ward.] 

Remarks to the Traveller at Hartford^ A railroad 
leads to New-Haven, and steamboats to Springfield and 
onward. Stagecoaches run on each side of Connecticut 
river ; northeast, to Boston ; east, to Providence ; south, 
to New-Haven and New-York, (besides the steamboats 
to the latter place;) west, to Litchfield and Poughkeep- 
sie; and northwest, to Albany. 

The traveller in New-England is advised to take the 
route up Connecticut River, which is the most fei-tile, 
wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; and to return 
by the way of Boston and Providence. This is the route 
we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can vary from it 
as he pleases. He will find such information as this little 
volume is able to afford him by referring to the index. 

The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Val- 
ley is almost proverbial ; and after v/hat the stranger has 
seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he will 
learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the beauty 
of the cultivation degenerates for several hundred miles 
northward. The whole country is thickly populated : 
neat and beautiful villages are met with at intervals of a 
few miles ; and the general intelligence derived from uni- 
versal education gives an elevated aspect to society. The 
accommodations for travellers are generally very comfort- 
able, and sometimes uncommonly good and elegant ; the 
scenery is ever new and varying ; many places have traits 
of interest in their history ; and the communication is easy, 
from many points of the route, with the principal places 
on the east and west. Besides all this, the roads are 
peculiarly fine, for they generally run along the river's 
bank, which is almost without exception level and pleasant, 
and formed of a soil well fitted to the purpose. 

The western side of the river is generally to be prefer- 
red ; but as there are good roads on both sides, and some 

14 



152 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RITEa, 

villages and other objects worthy of equal notice on ths? 
eastern shore, and good ferries or bridges are to be meS 
with every few miles, it will be agreeable occasionally 
to cross and re-cross. Those who travel along the course 
of the Connecticut twice, would do well to go up on one 
side and return on the other. This is the most direct 
route to the White Hills or White Mountains of New^ 
Hampshire. Those who go to Boston will take the 
Worcester railroad at Springfield. 

Worcester is one of the finest villages in New-En- 
gland. The country around it is rich and variegated, and 
the dwellings have an air of elegance which does great 
credit to the taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants. 
Brick is extensively used in building. The court house^ 
bank, &c. stand on the principal street; and east of it the 
county house and the building of the 

American Histerieal Society,- This is an institution 
formed for the truly important purpose of preserving 
every thing relating to the history, traditions, &c. of the 
country. The State Lunatic Asylum, conducted on the 
humane system of moral treatment, is highly successful. 
Number of inmates in the year 1840, 391, of whom 162- 
were admitted, 155 discharged, 82 recovered, 29 im- 
proved, 29 harmless, and 15 died. 

The railroad leads east to Boston, and west to Spring- 
fiald, meeting that to Norwich. The Blackstone Canal 
leads to Providence. 

VVatchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. W. of Worcester, 
and 52 W. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 3000 
feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy path. The 
spectator looks down on a suiTounding scene of wooded 
mountains, below which are ponds and farms, and a view 
over cultivated and inhabited regions. 

Route up Connecticut River, 

Leaving Hartford in the steamboat for Springfield^ 

[East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil, 
but the street as well as that of East Windsor, next north 
of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road crosses 
Podunk Brook by a small bridge, about four miles from 
Hartford, on the north bank of which, on the left hand;, 
was once the fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk Indians^ 
who had their settlements on this winding stream, anci 



SOUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 153 

come of their broken implements are occasionally found in 
she soil.] 

Windsor was settled as early as 1635. A few months 
after the building of the fort, (probably a blockhouse,) the 
Dutch garrison at Hartford made a secret march against 
it, expecting to take it by surprise ; but on arriving at the 
place they found reason to give up their enterprise, and 
returned without firing a gun. 

East Windsor, on the opposite side of Connecticut 
river, has a commanding situation, and is the site of a 
Presbyterian Theological Seminary. 

The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ellsworth 
stands in Windsor, on the east side of the street, nine 
miles above Hartford. It is distinguished by columns, 
and surrounded by trees. He was born in a house opposite. 
Enfield. A Canal of 6 miles passes the falls. 
SuFFiELD is a very pleasant town about a mile west of 
the river, and has a good inn, and a mineral spring in its 
vicinity, which has been the resort of considerable com- 
pany. The village street runs along the ridge of a long 
and beautiful hill, with neat houses and white fences on 
both sides, and the home lots sloping east and west to- 
wards the low ground. Some of the houses are lai'ge and 
elegant. 

Svffieid Springs. About a mile southwest of the 
street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphureous qualities. 
Springfield is a flourishing town, standing at the foot 
of a high hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine 
buildings, the residences of some of the wealthier inhabit- 
ants, and the top occupied by the United States Armory. 
This establishment occupies a large space of ground, and 
commands a fine view. The buildings containing the work- 
shops for manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, barracks, 
&c. are surrounded by a high wall. The number of work- 
men required, which is about 260, has a favourable effect 
on the business and prosperity of the place. About 13000 
muskets are made here annually, or 60 a day. The manu- 
factories on Mill River, a little south of the armory, are 
various and well worthy of observation. 

The town is ornamented with many fine elms and other 
trees ; and there are two very handsome churches. It 
%yag originally considered within the limits of Connecticut 



154 FEMALE SEMINARY. 

colony, but at length incorporated with Massachusetts. 
A tribe of Indians Hved for some years on Fort Hill ; but 
being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they as- 
sumed a hostile air, fired upon some of the inhabitants 
who were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the 
town. 

In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he attacked the 
armory, at the head of a strong party of undisciplined men. 
General Shepard, who had command at the place, attempted 
to dissuade them from their attempt, and finally drove them 
off by firing twice. The first shot, over their heads, dis- 
persed the raw troops, and the second drove off" the re- 
mainder, who, being about two hundred revolutionary sol- 
diers, did not desist until they had lost a few of their men. 
This was the first check the insurrection received, which 
was put down without much subsequent trouble. 

Wilbraham, 7 or 8 miles west from Springfield, con- 
tains a Wesleyan Academy. 

West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with large 
elms and containing some handsome houses. It is 26 
miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles from Northamp- 
ton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow of a hill 
a little north of the town, near a church, which overlooks 
the river and an extent of country on each side, with 
Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. 

South Habley Falls. The village and locks are on 
the east side of the river. 

The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 feet, 
but at the lower falls only ^2. There is a canal 2^ miles 
long on the east side of the river, cut through a slate rock 
for a considerable distance, and in some places very deep. 
The dam is 8 feet high. There are five locks near the 
tavern, and one above. There is a ferry here, which is 
safe, but the water runs very swiftly. 

South Hadley. The Mount Holyoke Female Semi- 
nary, gives a practical domestic education with intellec- 
tual instruction. 

For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, the road 
runs along the bank of the river. The river makes an 
abrupt turn some miles above, I'unning between Mount 
Tom on the south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; and 
when the scene opens again, it discloses a charming and 



ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVEH. 155 

extensive plain, formed of the meadows on the river's 
bank, and evidently once the site of a large lake, when th6 
"water was restrained by the barrier between the mountains. 
This plain is one of the richest, and by far the most exten- 
sive and beautiful on the river. 

Northampton is situated at the western s'de of the 
plain, a mile from the river, and is a favourite place of re- 
sort for travellers ; as it is one of the most beautiful of the 
New-England villages, and is surrounded by a charming 
country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, which com- 
mands a view of the whole. The streets are irregular, 
hut some of them shady and delightful in summer, being 
also ornamented with many neat houses. It is a place 
of considerable business 5 and the soil makes valuable 
farms. 

Round, Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the 
town. 

On the eastern declivity of the hill stands the house of 
the Stoddard family, an ancestor of which vvas a man of 
great talents and influence in this part of the country. In 
King-street, towards the northeast fiom that spot, stood 
the house in which President Edwards, Sen. lived, Presi- 
dent Edwards, Jiin. and Dr. Dwight were born, and David 
Brainerd died. On the east side of the main street, just 
south of the brook, is the house of the late Governor 
Strong. 

The Lead Mine. In Southampton, at the distance of S 
miles from this place, is a lead mine. 

Mount Holyoke.— The height is said to be 800 feet ; 
and there is a good cai-riage road the greater part of the 
way up. ^ View fi-om the top : 

Southeast. The country is undulating, and the soil 
generally poor ; yet several villages are discovered at a 
distance, particularly South Hadley, which lies immediate- 
ly below. Southwardly is seen Connecticut river, retiring 
under the shade of Mount Tom, whitened below by the 
South Hadley Falls ; beyond which is the hill at Spring- 
field. The river makes several turns, and on the horizon 
are two very distant peaks, which are supposed to be East 
and West Rocks at New-Haven, about 70 miles distant. 

Northeast is seen Monadnoc Mountain, in New-Hamp- 
shire, 

14* 



156 riEW ]?uoM Mount HOttoKE, 

North, you lookup the charming valley of the Connect!* 
cut ; bordered by distant ranges of hills and mountains, 
■varied by a few isolated peaks, covered with the richest 
coat of vegetation, and scattered with villages and innu» 
merable farm houses^ The river makes a beautiful serpen- 
tine course ; from where it first appears at the foot of Su- 
gar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby, until it reaches the 
village of Hadiey, which lies in full view; and then taking 
a bold sweep to the west, and flowing 4^ miles, it returns 
to the end of that village, only a mile distant from where 
it first meets it. The whole peninsula is rich and fertile, 
and covered with cultivated fields of wheat, corn, grass, 
&c. without being disfigured by fences, according to the 
custom prevalent hereabouts 5 and is the richest sight upon 
the river, particularly when viewed in connexion with the 
scene immediately belov/, v/here the river flows on, almost 
under our feet, and the western shore presents the exten- 
sive Northampton Meadows, a mile wide. Following the 
current with the eye, in the 

West-souih-west, it forms a still more remarkable penin- 
sula, although one of inferior size : the Hockanum Bend^ 
being a turn measuring 3g miles in circuit, while the isth- 
mus was only 46 rods across, or 150 yards. This has been 
cut through by a flood. In the compass of this view, from 
the north to the west and south, numerous village spires 
are seen, with level fields, orchards, and gardens, almost 
■without number ; and the -whole scene is bounded with 
mountainous ridges. 

Northampton is seen about west northwest, with 
Round Hill; and tov/ards the right, the top of Saddle 
Mountain, in the distance. There are also others still 
further north, particularly Haystack and Bare Mountain. 

More than 30 church steeples may be counted here by 
taking advantage of different kinds of weather. 

In point of history, that part of the Connecticut Valley 
immediately under the eye, belongs to the third division 
of settlements, calling Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay 
the first ; Windsor, Hartford, Wethersfield, &c. the se-* 
cond. Northampton, Hadlcy, and Hatfield, were settled 
in 1653, and remained the frontier posts in this direction 
till after Philip's war, during which they suffered severely 
from constant alarms, and the loss of mbabit.SBts, ThS' 



KOTJtB UP CONNECTICUT RITEE, 157 

Indians who had sold the lands on which the towns were 
built, had each a spot assigned them within a short dis- 
tance of the palisades with which the new settlements 
were surrounded, and lived in peace and good faith until 
excited by Philip ; after which all the towns were at dif- 
ferent times attacked by them, and some of them repeat-' 
edly. During the French wars, on May 13th, 1704, the 
Indians fell upon a little settlement at the foot of Mount 
Tom, and killed 30 persons, more than half of whom 
were children ; and a tradition states, though without de- 
signating the precise time, that a captive woman was once 
brought to the top of the mountain where we stand, and 
scalped. 

Hadley was attacked by the Indians while the inhabit- 
ants were at church, and was near falling into their 
hands, when a stranger, a venerable old man, made his 
appearance, and by his active resistance, encouraged them 
to repel the enemy. It was not known at the tim,e who 
he was, or whither he went ; but there is now little doubt 
that he was Goffe, one of King Charles's judges, wha 
was secreted for a length of time in this town, and of 
whom we have already had occasion to speak at New- 
Haven. The remains of his coffin, it is believed, were 
discovered a few years since, in the cellar wall of a house 
near the present academy, which was formerly inhabited 
by one of his friends. 

Hatfield, one mile further^ on the west side of the 
river, is much devoted to the wintering of cattle raised 
on the neighbouring hilly country. The grass is very 
fine, and the barns are large ; which, with the appear- 
ance of the houses, give the place an air of substantial 
agricultural wealth. The cattle are bought, stabled, and 
fatted. 

Amherst is situated on elevated ground, 5 miles from 
Hadley ; and off the river towards the northeast. 

Amherst College ranks among the most respectable 
in New-England. The situation occupied by the build- 
ings is pleasant, commanding a rich, extensive and varied 
view, partly over the meadows of Connecticut River, 
with mountains particularly mentioned a few pages back, 
seen in different directions. The retired situation is- 



highly favourable to study and good oarder, as its elevatiofl 
and pure air are conducive to health. The number of 
students in 1840 was about 250. The president, Dr. 
Humphries, is also professor of nnental and moral Philo'* 
sophy and Divinity. There are six other professors, and 
a teacher of French and Spanieh, a teacher of mathema' 
tics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. 

The Sa©AR Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form^ 
rising in front as we proceed. Deerfield lies north of it 
about 3 miles ; and the way by which we approach it, lies 
nearly along the old road which led thither through the 
wilderness, in 1675, when it was deserted by the settlers; 
and Capt. Lothrop was despatched, with a body of 80 
soldiers and wagoners, to bring off the grain. At the 
foot of this mountain is the small village of Bloody Brook, 
and near the spot where a bridge crosses the stream, Capt, 
Lothrop was ambushed by about 800 Indians. The place 
was then a marshy piece of ground ; and some traces of 
the road, which was formed of log&, are still to be seen, 
running through the fields without crossing at the bridge. 
The convoy halted at this place; and the soldiers were 
generally engaged in gathering grapes from the vines 
which ran on the trees, having left their muskets on the 
ground^ when the Indians fired upon them. Capt. Lo* 
throp gave orders that the men should disperse, and fire 
from behind the trees; but they were all cut off except 8 
or 10. This massacre was one of the most calamitous 
which ever occurred in New England, taken into view 
with the small number of inhabitants at the time : as the 
company consisted of young- men, from the principal fa- 
Eiiilies in the eastern towns. 

That part of the meadow we pass through in approach" 
ing Deerfield was the scene of several skirmishes with 
the Indians at different times, as the place v.'qs a fron- 
tier for many years, although it was twice burned and de- 
s-srted. 

Deerfield. In 1704, which was the period of its last 
destruction, a large body of Indians, led on by a few 
Frenchmen from Canada, came upon the town before 
daylight. It was winter, and the snow crust was strong 
enough to bear them ; they had secreted themselves on a 



ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT KIVER^ 159 

hill northwest from Deerfield, and sent in a scout. The 
houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants made 
captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada. One 
of the houses is standing at this day, a little north of the 
church. 

A house next this was valiantly defended by seven 
men; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, 
was taken, and he and his family carried to Canada. 
Most of the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of 
Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, married a 
chief, and left children. Mr. Williams, missionary to the 
Indians at Green Bay, was one of her descendants- 
Some marks of the old picquet may be traced in the 
rear of the house, which is supposed to present the same 
appearance as in old time, excepting that the kitchen, &c. 
have since been built, and the front and rear have been 
covered. There is an academy in this town. 

East from this place are several spurs projecting from 
the hill, on one of which was formei-ly a fort, for the pro- 
tection of the Deerfield Indians against the Mohawks. 

Greenfield, 3 miles. Here the stagecoach passes on 
a road from Boston to Albany. The country west is highly 
picturesque. 

[Turner's Falls are on Connecticut river, two or 
three miles east from Greenfield. Philip, having been 
driven from the seacoast and the neighbourhood of the 
English settlements, in 1676, by the active operations of 
Capt. Church, Capt. Moseley, Capt. Wheeler, &c. retired 
with some of his followers to the Northfield Indians, who 
held a position on a sandy hill, on the north bank of the 
river. Here he was attacked in the night by Capt. Tur- 
ner. The Indians had held a feast that night, as some of 
their captives afterwards reported, and were generally 
asleep, so that the attack of the white men gave them a 
panic, and they fled to their boats, which they launched in 
such haste, that many forgot their paddles, and were car- 
ried over the falls. The rest, however, rallied befoi-e their 
enemies were out of their reach, and being joined by some 
from the island below the falls, pursued and harassed them 
about ten miles, to Deerfield. Bones are occasionally 
dug up near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of 



160 bellows' falls. 

an old musket, a few silver coins, &c. were discovered 
among the rocks. 

This was the last and most severe blow Philip received 
before he returned to his native country in Rhode Island, 
where he soon after terminated his dangerous life, and the 
war, which brought so many calamities upon New-England. 

The Canal. A dam of great height is built at the falls, 
to supply a canal, which extends two or three miles for 
boats and rafts. Some mills are also established on the 
river's bank. The fall is divided by two rude rocks, be- 
tween which the water rushes in separate cataracts ; and 
the scenei-y below is wild, and not a little imposing. There 
is, however, no inn nearer than Greenfield. 

Vernon. Within the limits of this township, which is 
the first in Vermont, was once Fort Dummer, one of a 
chain of forts, built for the protection of the country 
against the Canadian Indians. The place for some years 
was known on the river, by the name of Number One, be- 
ing the first of four townships. 

Passing through a pretty village, with several mills, 
after a few miles, we approach Battleborough, south of 
which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes a 
large quantity of slate ; where may be seen the mode of 
quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it for transpor- 
tation. 

Brattleborough is a very pleasant village, situated on 
an elevated plain above the river, which, since the draining 
of the old lake in this place, has made two or three suc- 
cessive arches north of the town, as it has gradually low- 
ered its channel to the present level. At the bridge, 
over a small stream, are several manufactories; and in 
the village is a large and comfortable stage house, whence 
coaches go to Boston, as well as west, north, and south. 

Westminster. This is on a fine, extensive level ; and 
on the high land, on the opposite side of the river, is 

Walpole. Connecticut River being the dividing line 
between the two adjacent states, Walpole is in New- 
Hampshire. The situation is very commanding, and the 
summit of the hill, above the village, aifords a view of un- 
usual extent and beauty. 

Bellows' Falls. The height of this fall is incon- 



ROUTE UP CaNNECTICUT RIVER. 161 

eiderable, but it is on the whole a striking object; sur^ 
rounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt mountain 
on the eastern side. The place has also been much orna- 
mented by art : for, besides the village, with its neat white 
houses and handsome chui'ch, a canal has been dug round 
the falls, a bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side 
of the mountain decorated with a handsome country seat. 

The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray granite, 
but are much cut by the force of the current. In some 
places holes have been bored into them perpendicularly, 
two or three feet in diameter, and twelve or even eighteen 
feet deep. This is done by the motion given to loose 
stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gradual en- 
largement of the bore sometimes breaks off great masses 
of the rock. These falls were once the favourite resorE 
of Indians during the fishing season. On the rock just 
below the bridge, are some remains of their rude attempts 
at sculpture, which represent the form of human faces ; 
and from one on the end of the stone, which appears to 
have suffered less from the attrition of the floods it would 
seem as if they might once have been more finished spe- 
cimens of sculpture than they now appear, as that pre- 
sents considerable prominency and beauty of execution. 

Charlestown. This is one of the prettiest little vil- 
lages in New-England : having a wide street, partly shaded 
with trees, and lined with neat houses. 

This was called township No. 4. The fort, built for 
the defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently 
rising ground a little south of the church, where the street 
runs. It was most gallantly defended by Capt. Stevens, in 
1747, against a large number of French and Indians : al- 
though repeatedly called upon to surrender, the garrison 
persisted in the defence, digging into the ground to shelter 
themselves from the enemy's fire, and, after several days, 
succeeded in driving them away. Captain S. received a 
sword for his bravery. 

Jarvis^s Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west side 
of the river, is very extensive, and contains a number of 
large buildings for dwellings, barns, stables, &c. princi- 
pally of brick. 

The road beyond affords some romantic scenes. The 
hills approach the river very nearly, and several views 



i^b2 aOYALTONi 

are caught between them, of the mountain behind Wind" 
sor, which is about 2,000 feet in height, and divided into 
chree peaks, whence, it is said, it derived the name of 
Ascutney, which, in the Indian language, means Three 
Brothers. 

Windsor is a fine and flourishing town, in a very pic- 
turesque situation, particularly when viewed from the 
opposite side of the river ; and contains a good stagehouse, 
a number of stores, some elegant houses, two or three 
handsome churches, and the State Prison. 

Mount Ascutney. A great part of the way up this 
mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be 
richly rewarded for the labour of the ascent. 

The Gulf Road. Those who are going westward 
from this part of the river, are counselled to take the 
Gulf Road to Burlington, on Lake Champlain, to which a 
stagecoach runs. Although the route is through the chain 
of the Green Mountains, the way is remarkably smooth 
and eas}'', following- the courses of the White and Onion 
Rivers, v/hich have cut deep channels through the rocks. 
You have, however, first to go sixteen miles along the 
western bank of the Connecticut to 

White River. Here great quantities of lumber are 
brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the Con- 
Jiecticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth Col- 
lege, at Hanover, is five miles north, and those who are 
going to the White Mountains, will of course pursue that 
kroute ; (see p. 164 ;) but the following deviation is made 
for those who are going to Lake Champlain. 

The road up the White River lies along the north 
bank, and passes through several beautiful and flourish- 
ing villages. This was one of the courses formerly chosen 
by the Indians of the north in their commerce with those 
on the borders of that river, before the arrival of Euro- 
peans ; and, with the exception of a short portage, between 
the White and Onion Rivers, they brought their furs from 
Canada, by water. During the Indian and French wars, 
this route was frequently used for more hostile purposes ; 
and captives were taken from these settlements so late as 
the revolutionary war. The scenex'y is interesting and 
various all along the route. 

Ro WALTON, a pretty village. This place was burnt, 



ilotJtB UP CONNECTICUT RIYER. 163 

Oct. 16th, 1781, by 300 men, principally Indians, who 
came down from Canada. They killed two men and took 
Eiway six prisoners to Montreal. 

Randolph is considered one of the most beautiful 
towns in Vermont, and a stagecoach likewise passes that 
way. 

Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable passage from 
the east, is under the brow of an abrupt mountain, where 
a branch of White River flows along by the road in a 
gentle current. 

The Gulf road extends six miles, and the ground is so 
level that it has been proposed to make it the course of 
a canal. On the height of land is a pond, from which 
flows a stream into the valley. Part of it joins the White 
River, and part the Onion River. 

MontpelieR is the capital of Vermont, and a very 
pretty town. It contains the State House, a Court House, 
a.n Academy, and other public buildings * 

From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pursues the 
course of Onion River nearly the whole distance, and 
aifords a succession of hilly and mountainous scenery, 
such as is characteristic of the state. 

On the road from Montpelier are two remarkable 
Vvaterfalls, in the Onion River. They are so near the 

* History or the STATE.-^The first discovery of Vermont, 
was made jn 1609, by Samuel Champlain, who, after establishiDg 
a colony at Quebec, proceeding up the rivers St. Lawrence and 
Sorel, explored and gave his own name to the lake which washes 
the western part of the state. In 1724, the government of Massa- 
chusetts erected Fort Dummer, in the town of Brattleborough, on 
Connecticut river. The first settlement in the western part of the 
state was commenced by the French in 1731, in the town of Addi- 
son, and at the same time they erected a fort at Crown Point. 
The government of New-Hampshire began to make grants of 
townships within the present limits of Vermont in 1749, at which 
time the settlement of Bennington was commenced, and at the 
same time a violent controversy ensued between the NeVk'-Hamp- 
shire grants, and the province of New-York. The first conven- 
tion of the state mot at Dorset, in 1776, and the first constitution 
was adopted by a convention assembled at Windsor in July, 1777, 
but the orsranization of the government did not take place until 
March, 1778. 

The difiieultiesbetween Vermont and New-York were amicably 
settled in 1 790, and the next year she was admitted into the con- 
federacy of the states. 

15 



164 DAUTMOUTH COLLEfiK. 

road that they will be heard in passing-, and seen by tak 
ing a few steps. 

Burlington is a large and beautiful town, and en- 
joys one of the finest situations on Lake Champlain. 
The ridge of the hill, on the declivity of which it is built/ 
commands an extensive view upon the lake, with the 
numerous mountains which border its western shores, 
and a large expanse of water on the right and left. Im-- 
mediately below is the bay, bounded by high land: and 
the elegant dwellings and beautiful gardens of the more 
wealthy inhabitants) ornament the foreground. 

The Steamboats stop here on their way to Whitehall 
and St. John's (the route to Montreal;) and the traveller 
is referred to pages 107 and 103, 99, and 137 for the objects 
on the lake in those directions. [^Returning to the Con- 
necticut river. 1 

Hanover. This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is 
remarkable as the seat of Dartmouth College, an institu* 
tion which holds a very respectable rank for learning and 
influence, the number of its pupils, and the ability of its 
officers. It was founded for the education of Indians, and 
was named after William, Earl of Dartmouth. It posses- 
ses a large tract of land, which was long unproductive ; 
and the college building, which is large and inhabited by 
the students, has a fine aspect. Several of the houses 
about the gi-een are very neat, and the ground being elevat- 
ed, the place is very pleasant. • 

The Medical Institution is a brick building, a little 
north from the squai-e. 

The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 18 miles, 
presents few objt'cts of much interest; the country not 
being thickly populated, and no villages intervening, ex- 
cept one, which has several very neat houses. 

The Strafford Copperas Works are nine miles north of 
Norwich. One of the buildings is 267 feet long. The ore 
is pyrites, taken from a stratum in a hill, overlaid by a 
crust of a ferruginous earth containing petrified leaves, 
&c. The ore is broken and thrown into heaps, for about 
two months, when it gradually undergoes a chemical 
change, emitting a spontaneous fire and fumes of sulphur. 
It is then leached in tubs, and the water, after boiling, 
yields crystals of copperas, of a rhombic form and a beau- 



HOUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 165 

dftil green colour. The manufactories produce about 
10,000 tons annually. 

Havekhill. There are three villages in this town, but 
the northern one is where the Boston road comes in, and 
where there are two good inns. The situation is elevated 
and overlooks the meadows for some distance. The distant 
scenery is here very fine, as Moosehillock Mountain and 
several others are in plain view, and serve as an intro- 
duction to the White Mountains, which we are ap- 
proaching. 

On the opposite side of the river is Piermont, where is 
a Sulphur Spring of some local celebrity, with a building 
for baths. 

The Great Ox-bow is a meadow containing about 500 
acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the western bank, 
and in the form of a crescent. The soil is fine and valu- 
able ; but from the comparatively small extent of the 
meadow, it cannot be compared with that of Hadley. 

From Bath to the White Mountains, there are two 
roads, one of which turns off through Lisbon, Bethlehem, 
Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's Patent, and Shad- 
bourn and Hart's Patent. [See Index.'] 

Such is the wildness of the country, that we can do 
little more than enumerate the places. The road is new, 
in many places rocky, and in others rough, on account of 
the logs which have been laid down to support it, and 
the remains of the stumps of trees. But it is more di- 
rect and much less mountainous, than that which passes 
through Lancaster. It does not however afford that fine 
view of the Connecticut Valley, nor of the ranges of 
mountains which there surround it, like a magnificent 
amphitheatre. 

Franconia. This is a secluded village among the 
mountains, where ii'on is manufactured to a considerable 
extent. It is at the foot of Haystack Mountain, which is 
about half way between Mount Washington and Moose- 
hillock — 20 miles from each. 

The Haystack may be ascended by any traveller dis- 
posed for arduous enterprises of this description : but it is 
not recommended in preference to the ascent of Mount 
Washington, which is rather less difficult. A foot path 
tarns off from the road about 6 miles from Franconia, 



166 NEW-LONDON. 

which conducts to the summit, 3 miles. The first twa 
miles are through thick hemlocks, hacmetac, spruce, &c. 
then I mile stunted trees, and the rest bare rocks. Near 
the spot where the path begins is a remarkable Ltisus 
Natures, formed by a rock on the side of a mountain, 
which bears a resemblance to the human face in profile. 
The forest shrubbery extends to the margin of the bare 
rocks much in the proportion of the bust of a man. It 
is called the " Old Man of the Mountain.'''' The preci- 
pice is 600 or 1000 feet high, and rises from the side of a 
pond, which is a source of the Pemigewasset river. The 
neighbouring region is so mountainous, that more than 
fifty peaks, it is said, may be counted from the top of the 
Haystack. Indeed the view fi'om that eminence embraces 
nothing but mountains, with here and there a cleared spot 
on the Plymouth road, and numerous marks of slides or 
avalanches made by the inundation in 1826. 

Lancaster is a very pleasant town, and the last on the 
river which merits that name. The surrounding moun- 
tains form a noble scene, supei'ior to every other of this 
nature along its course. 

The Canada line is only 40 miles north, and lies along 
the Pomicotiunt. The following are the towns : North- 
umberland, Stratford, Columbia, Colebrook, and, the last 
stage, Stewartstown. 

[Having now completed the route up Connecticut River, 
we return to Long Island Sound. For other routes and 
places, see Index.] 

NEW-LONDON, CONNECTICUT. 

Entering New-London Harbour, (in a New-York steam- 
boat,) on the left is the Light House. 

Fort Trumbull occupies a point beyond, and is garri- 
soned by the United States. It was taken in the revolu- 
tionary war, as well as the town, and Fort Griswold, 
which stands on the high hill opposite. Looking up the 
River Thames, the prospect is handsome, the banks be- 
ing high and cultivated, and backed by Horton's Hill 
several miles distant, in the Mohegan country. 

Steamboats touch here daily for New-York and Nor« 
wich. At Norwich you take the railroad. See p. 169. 



ROUTi: i^ROM NEW-tOftK TO BOStOJ?. 167 

r 

The Harbour of New-London is one of the most acf" 
*iessible, safe and commodious in the United States, lying; 
hear the Ocean and the Sound, almost surrounded by high 
land, and having- water enough for ships of war quite up 
"to the wharves, with a fine sandy bottom near the shores. 

New-London is the third town in Connecticut for the 
number of inhabitants. It is situated irregularly, princi" 
pally at the foot of a hill facing the east, and wears an 
appearance of decline ; but some of the houses are hand* 
some, and thel-e ard several fine situations near the top of 
the hill. 

There is a road hence to Providence, and another froni 
Norwich, (13 miles up the Thames,) both equally unin* 
teresling, and nearly of equal length. The riverj how- 
ever, affords sortie very pretty scenes, and Norwich is a 
neat and interesting town. 

Fort Griswold, opposite New-London, was garrisoned, 
by a few continental troops in the year 1781, in the revo- 
lution, when Benedict Arnold, after his treacherous deser* 
tion of the American cause, appeared off the harbour with 
a British force on the Gth of September; and landing 800 
men on each point of the harbour, marched up and took 
Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Col. Eyre, who com- 
manded the troops on the eastern shore, proceeded to- 
wards Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of truce, de- 
manded a surrender. 

But before this time. Col. Ledyard had enfefed the 
fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly militia volun- 
teers from the neighboui'hooa. The British troops had 
advanced under cover of a wood, and invested the fort \ 
but the Americans defended therhselves for some time, 
beating off their enemies once, and finally surrendered^ 
•when resistance would have been entirely useless. The 
enemy had lost 41 officers and men, who were butied near* 
the spot; with Col. Eyre, the commander, wounded^ 
and Major Montgomery killed. After the surrender, how* 
ever, a massacre of the prisoners took place, '»vhich cas-t 
the deepest disgrace on the expedition : 70 officers and 
men being the victims, most of v^hom were heads of fami- 
lies. Many of the wounded were also treated in a most 
barbarous manner, being placed in a cart, and rolled down 
the hill just south of the present road to the fort. The 
15* 



168 STONINGTOK. 

event has been commemorated by building by subscription 
a, monument on the spot* 

Fort Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 miles 
east from N. London, and derives its name from aPequod 
fort, which formerly occupied its summit. The road 
crosses it near the southern limit of the fort, and a small 
church stands a quarter of a mile above, within the exten^^ 
sive space once enclosed by that palisaded w^ork. It was 
the great fortress of the terrible Pequod nation, which 
makes a very conspicuous figure in the early history of 
the eastern colonies. They had fought their way from the 
interior, and seated themselves in the present limits of 
Groton, where the few poor remains of their descendants 
still are found. On the arrival of the English, they had 
extended their conquests a considerable distance up Con«i 
necticut river, and the eastern and western Nehantics on 
the coast were subject to them. 

In consequence of the mui'defs they had committed, 
and the attack with which they threatened the infant set* 
tlements at Hartford, Windsor, and Welhersfield, the 
inhabitants form.ed an expedition in the spring of 1637, 
led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort on the 
Mystic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after 
which the nation fled from their country ; and having suf- 
fered another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fairfield, 
(see that place,) were reduced to slavery, and ceased 
from that time to be an object of terror. 

This hill commands an extensive and delightful vieWf 
being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and being supe* 
tior in height to the neighbouring hills. A considerable 
extent of Long Island and the Sound are overlooked from 
the summit, with various islands, bays, and points on the 
Connecticut coast. At the time of the burning of Mystic 
Fort, it was occupied by the chief Sachem, Sassacus, who 
hastened to the relief of his subjects, but arrived too late 
to render them any assistance. On his return here, he 
burnt the weekwams and palisadoes, and immediately fled 
for refuge to the Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. 

Mystic, 71 miles. 

Stonington. Steamboats go daily to New-York. The 
Providence and Stonington Railroad, 47 miles, leaves 
the shore of JiOng Island Sound at the steamboat wharf in 



ROtJTi: f&O^l NEW-toRfc to EOgtON. IBS 

Stonington, passes through the town, crosses Paucatud 
River into Rhode Island, up Charles River Valley to Sher-- 
man's Fond in South Kingstouj north to East Greenwich^ 
and across a steam ferry to Providence, to meet the Bos- 
ton and Providence Railroad* Finished in 1S37 for two 
Jnillionsj summit 302 feet, maximum grade 33 feet, l4 
miles neatly level, minimum radius 1637 feet, in one spot 
480. 

On descending the hill which leads into this village^ 
Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a little off the 
Joad on the right hand. Undef the shelter of it, it is said^ 
Capt. Mason encamped with his little army on the night 
of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours before his suc= 
leessful attack on the second Pequod fort, which was on 
ihe top of a hill about two miles south of this place. 

HoPKiNToN, 11 miles; West Greenwich, 15; Cen^ 
TREViLLE, 2 ; Providence, 11. {See Index.) 

THE RIVER THAMES. 

Steamboat Route from New-London to Norwich, 

A little above New-London, there is a singular rock, an 
the east side, where the explorers of the river are said to 
have landed, and to have been attacked by the PequodSi 
The Mohegan country lies above, on the v/est side, with 
Horton's Hill, on the top of which Uncas had a fort,- 
something of which still remains. It is a very command^ 
ing position, and overlooks the surrounding country. Dur» 
ing the late war, the government ships Macedonian,' 
United States, and Hotnet, which were in the river, lay 
moored here for a length of time, and their guns i were 
J drawn up by oxen to the top of the hill on the east shore^ 
above the little cove* 

Tratiing Cote, 1 mile above Kiah's Cove, is a hand"- 
isome little bay, making up into the Indian country, and 
derived its name Irom the barter formerly carried on 
here between the white men and the Mohegans. Uncas,- 
the Sachem of Mohegan, was believed to be of Pequod 
descent, but in a state of successful revolt at the time the 
English became acquainted with him. His chief resi-" 
dence was near this eovc.- nov? the centre of the Indian 



170 KofeWlCH. 

Reservation ; but the burying- ground of the royal (athiiy 
was near Norwich Landing, (which is in sight from ihij 
place.) He had conquered the country as far north as 
about the present Massachusetts Jine^ but became an early 
friend of the whites, and rendered them important ser- 
vices, particularly in war, as well as his successors, the 
later Mohcgan chiefs. 

Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas was 
once so closely besieged by his eiiemies the Pequods, 
that he suffered extremely from a scarcity of provisions, 
and was relieved only by the care of a rHan named Lef- 
fingwell, who was despatched from Connecticut with a 
boat loaded with provisions. In gratitude, Uncas gave 
Jiim a large part of the present town of Norwich for this 
important service* There is a rock still pointed out on 
the shore, and called Uncas' Chair, where the Sachem is 
said to have sat and watched the arrival of his friends. 

On the south side. Trading Cove is bounded by Cooper's 
Hill ; beyond is Fort Hill, which derived its name from a 
little place of strength erected in old times by the Indians, 
as a protection against other nations small lihe themselves,. 
The poor remains of this tribe reside on the lands secured 
to them by the state government, and live in all the igno- 
rance, idleness, and thriftlessness common to Indians in 
this part of the country : melancholy testimonies of the 
degradation to which the most active human minds may 
sink when every customary impulse to exertion has been 
stifled, and no new incitement extended. 

Worcester and Norivich Railroad, 58^ miles. Leaves 
Norwich Landing, passes up the valley of Quinnebaug 
road, near Jewett's city, and many manufactories, through 
Wegtfield, Pomfret, Oxford, fee. to Worcester, where it 
meets the I'ailroads to Boston and to Springfield. Opened 
in 1840 ; cost 1 million ; maximum grade 20 feet. 

Norwich has three villages, of which Chelsea Landing ig 
the principal, and is remarkable for its singular situation, 
as well as for its appearance of business, which is much 
favoured by the numerous manufactories in the neighbour- 
ing country. The Plain is about a mile north, and a very 
pleasant place. 

On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper end 
of v.'hich arc the Falls of Yantic, a stream which pouirs 



ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 171 

over a ledge of granite about 40 feet high, and supplies 
several manufactories with water. The place is highly 
picturesque. A rock, 70 or P-O feet in height, overhangs 
the stream, whence a number of Narragansett Indians 
once precipitated themselves when pursued by the Mohe- 
gans. 

The Burying Ground of the Uncases is on the elevated 
bank north of the Cove, on the grounds of Judge Goddard, 
There are stones marking the graves of numerous mem- 
bers of the royal family of the Mohegans, and a few 
of them bear English inscriptions. The family is now 
extinct. 

Uncas, the old friend of the Pilgrims, is buried here. 
He and his nation were the only steady allies they ever 
found among the Indians, steady and powerful enough 
to render them very essential service. He was a man 
of extraordinary talent, and withal extremely politic ; but 
he refused to join the Indians against the English, and 
died a friend of the white men. 

This plain was the principal summer residence of the 
Mohegans. 

The manufacturing village is under the bank and at the 
mouth of the Yantic. The position is well selected, and 
the sum expended in buildings and machinery very great. 

Sachem's Field. At the distance of 1^ miles from 
Norwich, IS Sachem's Field, a small elevated plain, on 
which a battle was fought in the year 1643, between about 
900 Narragan setts, (who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 
500 'or 600 Mohegans. The Sachem of the former, 
Miantonimo, intending to chastise Uncas for his adherence 
to the English, secretly advanced into his country with 
an army; but Uncas was aware of his approach, and met 
him on this plain, where both parties halted. 

Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward 
alone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quarrel 
single-handed. This, as he expected, was refused; and 
while his enemies were not prepared, he gave a signal by 
falling down, when his men instantly set up a yell, dis- 
charged their arrows, and rushed forward. The Narra- 
gansetts fled, and many of them were killed. Uncas cap- 
tured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty Indian would 
not ask for quarter nor speak a word. He was taken to 



172 NEWPORT. 

Hartford, and after a trial, was delivered to Uncas for 
execution. He was brought back to this place, and while 
marching across the field, was tomahawked on a spot a 
little east of the road, where a heap of stones for many 
years marked the place of his burial. 

Newport, Rhode Island. This place possesses one of 
the best harbours in the United States. The entrance is 
guarded by Fort Adams ; and the scenery about it is 
agreeable. 

Fort Adams on Brenton's Point embraces an extent 
of 130 acres. A range of guns lines the shore towards 
the west, and the casements, &c. are very strong. 

Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but pre- 
sents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been re- 
moved to Providence. The situation has many advan- 
tages ; and this, with the cheapness of rent will probably 
render it the temporary abode of many strangers during 
the warm season. 

The houses of the town are thickly clustered about the 
margin, but make rather a gloomy appearance on account 
of the want of repair ; the place having experienced a 
gradual declension caused by the success of Providence, 
thirty miles further up. 

The beach behind the town, like the whole circuit of 
the city on the land side, was defended by a line of troops, 
batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the English 
in the revolutionary war; and the opposite high grounds 
were occupied by the American army, whose head quar- 
ters were on Taumony Hill, a mile and a half, or there- 
abouts, from the town: an elevation which affords an 
extensive view on every side. Gen. Prescott was taken 
here during the war, by a bold party of men under Col. 
Barton, who landed secretly from a boat in the night, 
went to the British head quarters, and conveyed their 
captive away before the land or naval forces, then in the 
harbour, could prevent them. The place was blockaded 
by the British fleet. 

During the possession of the place by the enemy, the 
trees were cut down for fuel ; and although the soil is 
admirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, and 
was, before that period, quite covered with the finest or- 
chards, it is now so divested of trees of every descrip* 



ilOtJtE FROM NEW- YORK TO BOSTON. 173 

tlon, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous for 
an American scene. Thq ferlility of the ground, and the 
excellence of the crops, however, as well as the neatness 
and precision with which the fields are cultivated, and 
regularly di^nded by fine stone walls, present a picture of 
agricultural beauty rarely paralleled in the United States. 
The island, fourteen miles long, and not three wide, con- 
tained in 1827 more than 30,000 sheep. 

Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence 
of the Narragansett Indians, and particularly as the abode 
of King Philip, and the scene of his death, is seen from 
a few miles beyond Newport, towards the northwest. It 
rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm of the bay. The 
view of it is soon afterwards cut off by the intervention of 
Prudence Island, which is about five miles in length, and 
presents the same fertile soil and gently swelling surface 
as that of Rhode Island. The inhabitants are few, as are 
those of Patience and Hope, islands of a much smaller 
size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the 
island of Hope, the north end of which is twenty miles 
from Providence. 

Rhode Island Coal Mine. An extensive mine of An- 
thracite, or incombustible coal, was opened a few years 
since near the end of the island, in Portsmouth, about 
two miles from Bristol Ferry. It was not extensively 
used, however, and the work was speedily abandoned. 

Providence is the second city in New-England, both 
in population, wealth and beauty. It is beautifully as 
well as advantageously situated at the head of navigation, 
on the river of the same name. 

The Boston and Providence Railroad, 41 m. begins at 
India Wharf in Providence, near the steamboat landing; 
and, passing through the town, leads through Foxboro', 
Walpole, Dedham, Roxbury and other towns. Opened 
in 1835, cost nearly two millions, curvatures gentle, least 
radius, 5730 feet; highest grade, 37^ feet; summit in 
Sharon, 256 feet above tide. There is a viaduct of gra- 
nite in Canton, 700 feet long, and above sixty feet high, 
over Neponset Valley. There are many embankments 
and excavations in rock. 

Taunton Branch railroad from Mansfield leads southeast 
to Taunton, 11 kn. and New-Bedford 24 m. more. 



1?4 Dedhim. 

The Milbury Branch leaves the Boston and frovidenc© 
railroad at Grafton for Milbury, 3 m. 

Brown University, the greatest institution of learn^ 
ing- in the state, is built on the summit of a high hill, the 
ascent to which is not very easy, although it is laid out in 
streets decorated with some of the finest houses in this 
part of the country ; dispersed among spacious gardens^ 
and mingling the delights of the country with the splen- 
dour of a city. Dr. Wayland is the president. 

The tov/n was settled by Roger Williams, who left thd 
old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in religious 
doctrines. He built his house on the shoie, near the pre* 
sent Episcopal church. Many of the society of Quakers 
of Friends afterwards joined him, whose descendants 
form a large share of the population of the state. 

The Academy is a large institution, near the College^ 
established by the Friends or Quakers. 

[Taunton, 32 miles from Boston, next above Digh^ 
ton. A great quantity of cotton is manufactured here; 
and there are extensive works in iron. 

Blackstone Canal. This canal, which reaches to 
Worcester, Massachusetts, runs along the course of the 
Blackstone River for several miles. ^ It is 45 miles long< 
18 feet wide at the bottom, and 34 feet at the surface. 
There are 48 locks, all built of stone, which overcome a 
rise and fall of 450 feet. The size, of the locks is 82 
feet in length, and 10 in breadth ; and the cost of the 
whole work was about $500,000. The water is chiefly 
derived from the Blackstone river; but there are large 
ponds at different parts of the route which can be drawn 
upon at any time. The whole work was completed 
about 1828. 

Pawtucket is one of the largest manufacturing places 
in this part of the country. The banks of the river are 
varied and somewhat romantic ; while the fall, which is 
under the bridge, furnishes a most valuable water power. 
Cotton is principally manufactured here, though there is 
machinery devoted to other purposes. 

Dedham, 10 miles from Boston, is a large and beautiful 
village, with regular and well built streets, and some quite 
elegant houses* 



Boston. 17B 

Blue Hills. This is a pleasant retreat, about? miles 
from the city of Boston, and much resorted to in the 
summer season. On the northern side, the view em-= 
hraces, in a clear day, the Green Mountains in Vermont,, 
and the White Mountains in New-Hampshire, with a 
wide extent of eountry between : Nahant, and in general, 
all Boston Bay, are seen eastwardly, and near at hand. 

These hills are seen on the right from the road, a few- 
miles south of Boston. 

Quincy Railway. This is the first work of the kind 
which was constructed in the United States. It is three 
miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to na-* 
vigable water, for the transportation of stone to Boston. 
The quarries will be found worthy of a visit. 

RoxBURY. On the Neck which leads to Boston, are 
seen the remains of the intrenchments thrown up by 
General Washington, in 1776, to shut the British troops 
tip in the town ; and a little beyond them is the place 
where General Gage previously drew his line across, to 
command the communication between it and the coun- 
try. The country on both sides retains marks of the 
American forts, redoubts, &c. and Dorchester Heights on 
the east are crowned with the works thrown up by Wash-^ 
ington, which commanded Boston and the anchorage } 
and forced the enemy to evacuate the place. Embarking 
here in their fleet, they went around to Long Island, and 
soon after entered New-York. 

THE CITY OF BOSTON, 

Hotels. The Tremont House, Exchange, Marlbo-^ 
rough Hotel, &c. 

From Boston railroads run in several directions: to 
Portsmouth, New-Hampshire, 55| miles, to be extended 
to Portland, Maine, 58 miles further ; to Lowell 36^ miles, 
and Nashua, New-Hampshire, 15 miles. A branch ta 
Andover, 7| miles, from Boston; and Exeter, New-Hamp- 
shire, 46^ from Boston. To Worcester, 44^ miles, and 
through Brookfield to Springfield, 54 miles more, while 
Norwich railroad goes from Worcester, 58 1 miles, meet- 
ing New^York steamboats. To Providence^ 41 miles, 
16 



lire THE ATHENJEUM. 

meeting New- York steamboats, and also the Stonington,; 
Connecticut railroad, 47 miles, which also meets New- 
York steamboats. (For particulars of these roads see 
farther on.) 

Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine build- 
ings, particularly private residences. The finest build- 
ings are of whitish granite, brought from the shores of the 
Merrimack River, and Quincy. 

The Market is of granite, and has a centre building, 
74^ feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 536 feet, 
with a fine facade at each end, with granite columns of 
single pieces, 21 feet high, and weighing each 14 or 15 
tons. A row of granite buildings on each side, 4 stories 
high, for stores, is more than 500 feet. 

The Common is a fine piece of ground, of about 50 
acres, on the southwestern side of the city, and one of 
its greatest ornaments. The surface is agreeably varied 
by a few gentle undulations, and it is decorated with 
rows of handsome dwelling houses on two sides, while 
on the third, it is bounded by the bay of Charles River, 
and affords an extensive view in that direction, embracing 
a tract of cultivated hilly country. Here are Crescent 
Pond and the great Elm. 

The State House is the principal object seen in ap- 
proaching the city, and stands on a considerable eminence 
at the north side of the common. It has a large dome on 
the top, affording the most extensive view of J3oston and 
the surrounding country which is to be found. 

Chantrey^s Statue of Washington. In this beautiful 
specimen of the skill of the greatest British Sculptor, 
Boston possesses a treasure. It was finished and sent to 
America in 1827, and a new apartment was constructed 
for its reception, adjoining the Doric Hall in the State 
House. The total expense of the statue and building 
amounted to about $16,000. 

Faneuil Hall is an old building, which vi^as used for 
public meetings before the revolution, and where the spirit 
of liberty was early excited and cherished. 

The Athenceum, at the south end of Pearl-street, is 
open daily to strangers introduced by members, and con- 
tains a valuable library of about 35,000 vols, and about 



BOsToir. 177 

14,000 coins and medals, with the Gallery of Fine Arts in 
the rear, with a collection of statues, painting's, &c. Medi- 
cal College in Mason-street; Massachusetts Historical 
Society's Library in Franklin-street ; New-England Mu- 
seum in Court-street ; Eye and Ear Infirmaiy ; Massachu- 
setts General Hospital. 

At Charlestown are the State Prison, conducted on the 
improved plan, and the U. S. Navy Yard, with ship houses, 
dry dock, &c. Also, the Insane Hospital. 

The hills at Dorchester, Roxbury, Brighton, Cambridge, 
Charlestown, &c. together with the numerous islands 
which protect the harbour, form an amphitheatre, very 
regular and beautiful, when seen from the top of the State 
House ; and the villages which are seen in every direc- 
tion, almost entirely line the shore. The mingling of land 
and water in this scene is very fine ; and it is easy, at a 
glance, to comprehend the plan of the various measures 
adopted during the revolutionary war, for the defence and 
capture of the place. 

Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breastwork across Roxbuiy 
neck, which is very narrow, in order to command the only 
land communication with the neighbouring country, and 
then continued those acts of oppression upon the people, 
which exasperated the colonies so much against him. 
Contributions were sent in for their relief from all parts of 
the colonies. 

On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces which had 
repaired to this threatened scene, had their head quarters 
at Cambridge, a body of men, principally formed of de- 
tachments from Massachusetts and New-Hampshire regi- 
ments having fortified themselves on Breed's Hill, (an in- 
ferior eminence behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed 
the ground with the British troops, sent over from Boston 
to occupy it. The loss was great on both sides, particu- 
larly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in 
three attacks. The boldness of these raw troops, and the 
success with which they so long withstood the charges of 
the regulars, were of the utmost use, bv encouraging the 
country, and by convincing the English that they were 
fighting a powerful foe. The battle usually goes by the 
name of Bunker's Hill ; but should, in strict propriety, be 



178 DORCHESTER HEIGHTS. 

called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct emi- 
nence, although, perhaps, a spur from the former. 

The British landed near a point, just beyond where 
the navy yard is now seen ; and the American defences 
consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's 
Hill, (where the great monument is now seen, half finish- 
ed,) and a double rail fence, stuffed with new hay, ex- 
tending from it to the water. A British sloop of war 
lay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond the navy 
yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low neck, which 
connects the peninsula of Charlestown with the main land. 

On the 17th of June, 1825, 'the fiftieth anniversary of 
this battle, the corner stone of the monument was laid in 
an angle of the old redoubt on Breed's Hill. 

The base, (a mass of 14,000 tons weight,) is laid 13 
feet deep, and has six courses of stone to the surface — 
the first of which is 50 feet on each side. Above this a 
pyramidal obelisk, 30 feet square, is to rise tapering, 213 
feet 4 inches on the ground, and to be 15 at the top. It 
will be composed of 80 courses of stone, each 2 feet 8 
inches thick. A winding stone staircase in the inside 
will lead to the summit, whence the view will be fine and 
highly interesting. The whole is to be built of granite 
from Gluincy. The largest block in it is said to be of the 
following dimensions : 11 feet long, 2 broad, 2 feet 8 inches 
high; with a weight of 10 tons. 

After the battle of Bunker's hill, the Continental troops 
were drawn in a more complete line around the town oF 
Boston ; and numerous intrenchments may still be ti-aced 
out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; but it was not till 
Gen. Washington had succeeded in occupying Dorchester 
Heights, which command the harbour and town from the 
southeast, that the British forces embarked in their ships, 
and evacuated the place. 

Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of 
March 4, 1776. Eight hundred men formed the van; 
then followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under General 
Thomas, 300 carts of fascines and gabions, and guns in 
the rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one to- 
wards the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Pre- 
parations were made for an attack by the British, and 



WAHAICT. 179 

for defence by tlie Americans ; but tbe weather prevented 
the designs of the former, who consisted of 10,000, and 
they embarked for New-York. The town was pillaged,, 
and 1500 loyalists removed. It was evacuated an March 
17th: ammunition, &c. being left by the British. 

Bridges. Some of the most striking objects in the 
neighbourhood of Boston, are the bridges which leadfrord 
it to various points. There are no less than seven princi" 
pal ones, beside several branches. The expense atv/hi€b 
they have been constructed and are kept in repair is very 
great, and they furnish great facilities for strangers desirous 
of making excursions to the surrounding country. The 
milldam bridge is two miles long. 

Public Schools. There are seven grammar schools, ira 
which were about 500 pupils. There were 200 boys \n 
the Latin, and 140 in the High school. The primary 
schools contained almost 3000 children between 4 and 7 
years of age, taught by females, &c. &c. The public ex" 
pense incurred in instructing nearly 75,000 children, i* 
$54,000 annually, 

A monument has been laid over the graves of Dr^ 
Franklin's parents, in the Granary burying ground. It \B 
an obelisk 25 feet high, formed of seven blocks of Quincy 
granite, each weighing about six tons. 

Vii,LAGES. The vicmky of Boston presents a succes- 
sion of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty 
in the United Stales. They are generally the residence of 
a number of the most opulent citizens during the pleasant- 
seasons, and many of the buildings are fine and expensive^ 
The grounds are also frequently laid out with great tasie,, 
and highly cultivated ; so that no stranger, who has leisure,,, 
should fail to take a circuit through them, for a few miles* 
There are several manufacturing establishments in this- 
>icinity, among which Waliham is conspicuous. Har- 
vard Univer 3ity and Mount Auburn Cemetery, near Charles- 
town, should be visited. Also, Fresh Pond. 

Nahant, 14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fa- 
vourite resort, during the warm months ; being a fine situ-' 
ation, open to the sea, of easy access by land and water, 
and furnished with several houses for the accommodation 
of visiters, particularly a large hotel. A steamboat runs- 
thither in the summer, and there is a fine road vvliiGh pa&se:^ 

le* 



180 pLYaioUTM. 

Sround the bay, through the shoe-making' town of tiyriilj 
klong Lynn beach, and then turns off" to the promontory of* 
Nahant, which is a point of rough rocks of considerable 
elevation. You may cross Charlestown bridge^ and visit 
Bunker's Hill at setting out. 

The passage in the steamboat affords a fine view of 
Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester Heights on the 
south, Bunker and Breed's Hills on the northwest, and 
many other interesting objects. Among the islands which 
form the defence of the harbour, is that which contains 
Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified ones* 
Rainsford Island has the Marine Hospital, part of it quitd 
elevated, but containing only a few acresj and another on 
Which is the Farm School, an interesting institution for 
boys. Salt is made in Boston Bay, and windmills are 
sometimes used to pump the water. 

The ground near the hotel at Nahant has been laid out 
feind ornamented with taste. The cupola on the top com* 
mands a fine water scene ; and during a strong wind 
from the sea, the waves are high and magnificent, breaking 
"wildly against the rocks. 

The Baihs are at a little distance from the hotel, and 
quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attraction^ 
of the place. 

The Syreri's Grotto is a remarkable cavity in the 
Jrocks, about a quarter of a mile from the hotel. It 
has been curiously worn out by the v/aves | and there are 
several other caverns of a similar character, produced in 
tho course of ages, by the constant attrition of the water. 
The Spouting Horn, is a hole in the rocks, on the oppo^ 
site side, where the water is thrown up in the air at par^ 
ticulaf times of tide. The rocks are of granite^ porphyry^ 
epidote, &c. and furnish pebbles of jasper, &c. Pulpit 
Rock, on the south, is a singular object ; its top is almost 
inaccessible. The rude shores and the smooth beach caii 
be best examined at low tide ; but those who are fond of 
sublime scenes, should omit no opportunity to visit them 
when the wind is high, particularly in a moonlight night. 

Plymouth, 36 miles S. S. E. from Boston. — This place 
is highly interesting on account of its history, being the 
site of the first settlement made by the New-England Pil- 
grims in 1620) OH the 22d of December. Amass of granite 



TrOtR OP SEW-ENGLAND. I'Bi 

tock is still shown on which those stepped who first 
landed. It has been dividedj and a part of it remains 
buried near the shore in its natural location, while the 
Upper part is removed into the centre of the villag-e. 

A handsome building was erected here in 1820, in 
\vhich the New-'England Society hold their annual cele-- 
brations of that interestiag era in the history of the coun» 
try. Burying' Hill, which rises near' at hand, is the spot 
where a small fort was erected by the settlers, and where 
the graves of several of them are still to be tbund. The 
banks of the breok south of the hill were the scene of the 
first conference with Massaseit, a friendly and faithful 
Indian chief,' from whom the name of the Bay, and subse- 
'quently that of the state was derived. Manumet point is 
a promontory on the south side of the harbour 5 and a 
small island on the opposite side of it was the spot where 
the pilgrims first placed their feet on shore in this vicinity, 
after having previously landed on Cape Cod. 

The young and feeble colony suffered extreme distresses 
kere, from the severity of the climate, (against which they 
were unprepared, as they had sailed for a more southern 
region,) and the want of provisions. Nothing but the 
assistance of Massasoit. under the providence of God, pre»- 
served them from extinction. 

Monies fr<?m ^os^ow.— Railroad cars and coaches go 
in so many directions, that a choice may be made be- 
tween a great many, all of them pleasant, in setting out 
for a tour to the westward, or towards the city of New- 
York. 

In the first place, the noble scenery of the WTiife HiUs 
may be taken in the way to Lake Champlain, Canada, 
-the Springs, or Niagara; or in making the more circum- 
scribed route of Connecticut River. Next, those who 
choose a more direct way, may avail themselves of the 
road through Concord, Plymouth, and Haverhill; or Con- 
tjord and Hanover ; or Concord, Keene, and Windsor ; or 
its branches to Charlestown or Walpole. 

Besides these, are the roads to Albany or the Springs, 
through the following different places : Brattleborough, 
Bloody Brook, Greenfield, Northampton, (and New- 
Lebanon;) Springfield and Hartford. 

Those whe desire -te ^travel raspidly will take the Wor= 



182 ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 

cester Railroad. To strangers, it will be proper to leffiarls 
once more, that the route of Connecticut River presents at 
once a scene of fertility, population, good habitSj and in- 
telligence, on the whole, superior to any other tract of 
country, of equal extent, in the United States ; with cor- 
respondent accommodations for travellers. The scenery 
is rich and varying, and cannot fail to please, wherever it 
is seen ; but those who can first pass through the Notch 
in the White Mountains, will find ,its beauties greatly 
enhanced by the contrast. 

East of Boston, the country is of a different, and too 
often of an opposite character, presenting few objects of 
importance, except the sea ports through which the road 
passes. 

There is a line of steamboats to Maine and New- 
Brunswick. 

The road to Portland, and through the most populous 
part of the state of Maine, will be given towards the end 
of the volume. 

The Boston and Lowell Railroad, northwest, 26^ m. 
Crosses Charlestown road on a viaduct, and passes in view 
of the ruins of the Charlestown Nunnery on Mount Bene-* 
dicf., which was burned by a mob 8 or 9 years ago, on as 
charge of the ill treatment of some of the nuns. At Wil-» 
mington a branch leads off to Andover, 7| m. Haverhill 
10, and Exeter, N. H. 20 m. 

Near Lowell is a long and deep cut, ^ m.- long, 47 
feet deep, and 80 feet wide, through a mass of gneiss rock^ 
where granite and other rooks are singularly intermingled. 
Summit, 125 feet; maximum grade, 10 feet per mile; 
least radius, 3000 feet. More than half is straight. Opened 
June, 1835 

This road is extended to Nashua, N. Ho 15 m. Opened 
1838. It is to reach to Concord. 

The Boston and Worcester Railroad, 44| miles. 
Extends from the shore of Boston harbour, under Wash" 
ington-street, across the city by a viaduct,- over CharleS' 
river, on an embankment 680 feet long, and through a 
cut through granite 500 feet long and 30 feet deep, along 
Charles river, through Brighton to Needham, and through 
Natick, Framingham, Westborough, and CTrafton, to Wor-* 
cester, 5 miles eaj-t of which is the sumniit, 5-50 feet above? 



TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 183 

Cide. There is a cut through slate 37 feet deep. Less 
than i m. on this route is level: maximum grade, 30 
feet; least radius, 954 feet. The continuation of this 
road is 

The Great Western Railroad, open from Wor- 
cester to Springfield, 54 m. through Charlton, South 
Brookfield, Palmer, and Wilbraham ; and is to be finished 
in a year to West Stockbridge, on the New-York line, 62 
m, further. Engines can travel here weighing 14 tons, 
and able to draw a train with 1000 barrels of flour, 10 
miles an hour. When the line is complete to Albany, 
flour will probably go thence to Boston for 35 cents a 
barrel. 

The Boston and Portsmouth, or Eastern Railroad ex- 
tends from East Boston through Lynn, Salem, (there is 
a tunnel under part of the town,) Ipswich and Newbury- 
port, (40 m.) ; to Portsmouth, N.. H. 15^ m. It is probably 
to be continued to Portland, Me, through Wells, Kenne- 
bunk Port, and Saco ; and thence to Bangor, 132 miles 
further. 

Fro7)i Boston to Burlington, Vt. on Lake Champlain, 
by the White Hills, 274 m. Railroad to Lowell, 25 m. 
and Nashua, N. H. 15; Merrimack, 6; Piscataqua, 10; 
Amoskeag, 2 ; Hookset, 7 ; Concord, 8 ; Winnipiseogee 
Outlet, 17; Guildford, 11 ; Centre Hai^bour, (northwest 
corner of the lake,) 13 ; Conway, 35 ; Bartlett, 10 ; the 
Old Crawford Farm, 7 ; Notch House, 6 ; Notch, and 
Notch Meadow Tavern, 2; Ethan A. Crawford's, 4; Lit- 
tleton, 18; Montpelier, 40 ; Burlington, 38. 

From Boston to Burlington, short route, 206 m. To 
Concord as above, then to Hanover, 55 m ; Randolph, 
25 ; Brookfield, 12 ; Williamstown, 8 ; Montpelier, 10 ; 
Moretown, 7 ; Waterbury, 4; Bolton, 8; Richmond, 2; 
Willston, 9 ; Burlington, 8. 

From Boston to Burliiigton through Windsor, Vt. by 
the Gulf Road, 206 m; to Woburn, 10 m; Billerica, 9; 
Chelmsford, 4 ; Tyngsborough, 7 ; Dunstable, 6 ; Merri- 
mack, 7 ; Amherst, 3 ; Mount Vernon, 6 ; Francistown,, 
9 ; Hillsboro', 9 ; Washington, 9 ; Sumpter, 7 ; Claremont, 
£on Connecticut river,) 12 ; Windsor, Vt. 9 ; Woodstock^ 
14^ (the rest as above.) 



184 BROOKFIEID. 

To Albany, through Worcester, Northampton and 
Lebanon Springs. 

Watertown, like almost all the villages in the vici- 
nity of Boston, presents many neat country seats and an 
aspect of rural beauty and fertility. 

Framingham, 20 miles from Boston, 

Worcester, 20 m. Leicester, 6 m. Spencer, 6 m. 

Brookfield. This was one of the towns earliest set- 
tled in this part of the country, dating as far back as 
Nov. 10, 1665 ; and for several years the only towns on 
the west were Hadley, Northampton, &c. while there 
was no white settlement between it and Canada. The 
stagecoach passes over a long hill in West Brookfield, 
which commands an extensive prospect ; and this was 
the place where the settlement began. A few yards 
west of a white house on the north side of the road, was 
a house built for defence, and though of little strength, 
was called the Fort. In August, 1675, this place was 
suddenly beset by several hundred savages. The in- 
habitants had been imposed upon by the appearance of 
friendliness tthovvn by the Hassenemesit Indians, and on 
their way to their fort, a few miles distant, were ambush- 
ed, and pursued, so that they barely escaped. The house 
in which they all assembled, was besieged, and was seve- 
ral times in imminent danger. On one occasion a cart, 
loaded with hemp, &c. and set on fire, was pushed up to 
the house with long poles, when a sudden shower came 
up, in time to extinguish the flames. The fortunate arri- 
val of Capt. Mosely, with a small troop of horsemen, de- 
livered the inhabitants, and drove away the savages. All 
the houses having been burnt, and the war soon begin- 
ning to rage with violence, the settlement was evacuated. 

The old well still remains which belonged to the fort, 
or block house ; and there is a rock in a wall, on the oppo- 
site side of the road, from behind which an Indian shot 
one of the men, who came out to draw water during the 
siege. 

The present village is at the bottom of the hill, and is 
pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neighbour- 
hood, which, with the fish and fowl they furnished, were 



tOUR OF NEW-EKGLAND. 185 

the principal attraction of the savag-es, who were very 
numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give rise 
to the Quabaug- River, which, after a course of some 
miles, takes the name of Chicopee, and joins the Connect! 
cut at Sprin^eld. 

Ware Factory Village is situated in a little valley. 
The rocks and woods give an air of wiidness to the water- 
fall. 

Belchertown, nine miles. 

Amherst, seven miles. The shortest road to North- 
ampton does not pass the College. (See Index.) 

Habley, five miles. 

ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

The first day's journey may be to Concord or Dover, 
both in New-Hampshire ; or you may take the railroad to 
Lowell. 

There are three roads to Concord, on all which there 
are stagecoaches. (All necessary information concern- 
ing them, can be readily obtained at the hotels.) 

The first is through Cambridge, (where is Harvard 
University,) and Lexington. 

The second is through Charlestown, and joins the other 
on the Merrimack. 

The third is through Andover and Haverhill, Mass. 

The distance is from 68 to 70 miles. 

Several places on these roads will be particularized. 

Lexington is remarkable as the place where the first 
blood was shed in the revolutionary war. On the 19th of 
April, 1776, Gen. Gage sent a body of troops from Bos- 
ton, to seize a powder house at Concord, belonging to 
the colony ; and the inhabitants were warned of his de- 
sign, by an express despatched by the Hon. Joseph War- 
ren. The militia were called out, but, the alarm subsid- 
ing, they were dismissed, with orders, howeverj to hold 
themselves in readiness. The enemy unexpectedly made 
their appearance at half past four, coming on at a quick 
step, within a mile and a quarter of the church. The 
alarm guns were fired, drums beat, and fifty or sixty mili- 
tiamen assembled on the parade. The British brigade 



18© ANDOVER. 

halted about 120 yards from the church to load, and theJir 
passing the east end of the building, discovered the Ame- 
ricans, who were ordered at the moment, by their com- 
mander, Capt. Parker, to " disperse, and take care of 
themselves," but " not to fire." As some of them loiter- 
ed, the British troops rushed towards them, huzzaing. 
Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, when about thirty 
yards distant after they had been called " rebels," and 
ordered them to lay down their arrns and disperse. An- 
other officer, who was within a few yards of them, then 
brandished his sword, and ordered the troops to " fire," 
which was obeyed at the second order ; and the fire being 
returned, it was kept up on the dispersing men until they 
had all disappeared. Eight were killed and ten wounded. 
(Gen. Gage falsely stated that the British were first fired 
tipon.) 

After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green 
behind the church, and given three cheers, they proceed" 
ed to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by 
sharp shooters, they burnt three houses, a shop, and a 
barn, killed three more men, and wounded one. 

Andover is a small village, situated on high ground, 
twenty miles from Boston, remarkable for the Philips- 
Academy and Theological Seminary, which are three 
fourths of a mile east from it, on the summit of the ascent. 
There are three large brick buildings belonging to the 
seminary, which make a conspicuous figure from different 
parts of the surrounding country, and command a view of 
great extent bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in 
New-Hampshire, backed by the Monadnoc, about sixty 
miles off;- and in the south by the Blue Hills. A littfe 
elevation near by affords a view of the Atlantic Ocean, 
from about Newb'uryport to Cape Ann, with part of Sa- 
lem ; and northwest is a distant peak, which is supposed 
to be Ascutney, in Vermont. 

The academical buildings are distinguished by the 
names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. In 
the upper part of the latter is a library. The profes- 
sors' houses are opposite, with a spacious green interven- 
• ing between the seminary and the street ; and there is also 
a large inn. The academy and seminary are not con- 
fiectod, although they are under the superintendence of the* 



SOUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 187 

same board. The term of instruction in the latter em- 
braces three years. 

Lowell, twelve miles from Boston, by a railroad. 
This is one of the greatest manufacturing places in the 
United Staites, and one of the most astonishing rapidity 
of growth. No longer ago than 1813, the first cotton fac- 
tory was erected here, which cost only about $3,000. 
Larger ones were founded in 1818 ; and two years after 
the Merrimack " Manufacturing Company" made a pur- 
chase of buildings and ground. The falls are thirty feet 
high. There is power enough for fifty factories with 
3,500 spindles each. The place now presents the aspect 
of a large and busy town. 

Haverhill is a small town, but pleasantly situated, 
on the north bank of the Merrimack, the shores of which, 
for some distance below, present a beautifal and fertile 
slope to the water. A bridge crosses the river. A steam- 
boat runs to Newburyport, and railroad cars to Boston. 

Chelmsford is a manufacturing place. 

Great Falls Village is a manufacturing village, five 
miles above Dover. 

Nashua Village, in Dunstable', thirty-three miles- 
from Concord. The fall in the Nashua river is sixty- 
five feet, and the power equal to about 65,000 spindles. 

Dover. This is one of the principal towns in the- 
state, and contains several manufactories, although the 
supply of water is by no means abundant at all seasons. 

About five miles above Dover, at Salmon River Falls, 
is a village. Containing manufactories. 

CoNCOxiii' is the capital of New-Hampshire, and a 
very fine and flourishing tov/n. It is much the largest 
the traveller will see before reaching the White Moun- 
tains, and for a great distance beyond them. 

The town is situated principally on one street, which 
is of a great length and very convenient breadth, with 
many respectable houses ; and runs parallel with the Mer- 
rimack j which is at only a short distance on the east. 

The State House occupies a conspicuous situation 
near the middle of the town,- a little removed from the 
street, and surrounded by a handsome stone wall, enclos- 
ing an area. It is built of hewn granite from the quarry, 
and is a neat edifice, 100 feet long, with a large hall mt 

17 



18S CONCOKU, 

the first floor, and on the second the Senate and VLepre" 
sentatives' Chambers, with the comn-iittee rooms, state 
offices, &c. &c. The view from the top is extensive, but 
embraces a tract of country too little cultivated to be 
rich, und too unvaried to be picturesque. At the north-' 
ward are seen two or three distinct peaks, which may 
serve as an earnest of the magnificent scenery to be pre- 
sented to the traveller in that direction. 

The State Prison is built at a short distance from 
the State House, and bears a. still greater appearance of 
solidity and strength. 

There is an academy in Concord, with several churches. 
Several newspapers are printed here, and gazettes from 
distant places may be found at the inns. 

The Merrimjsck River has been rendered navigable,, 
by various improvements, from Concord to Chelmsford, 
where the Middlesex Canal opens a eommunication di- 
rectly to Boston, 28 miles. Small manufacturing villages 
succeed each other along the banks wherever the canals 
round the falls and rapids afford water-power. 

Roads. Several lines of siagecoache? meet in this 
town, from Boston, Portsmouth, Plymouth, Haverhill', 
Burlington, by the way of Windsor and Conway, on the 
road to the Notch in the Mountains. 

From Plymouth a coach goes throngh Franconia Notch 
to Littleton. Tbe road follows the Peuiigewasset, through 
line, mrgnificent scenery. 

There is a road on each side of the lake towards Con- 
way. The eastern meets the lake steamboats at the S. 
E. corner. The traveller should spend a day at Centre- 
Harbour, to which the road is pleasant and the country 
agreeable, although there are but few villages on the way. 

Two roads from Concord lead to Meredith Bridge Vil- 
lage, 24 miles distant : one by Sandbornton bridge, 15 
miles — the other by the Shaker village, 12 miles. 

From M. B. Village, delightfully situated between two 
bays, and on a beautiful river that never freezes, it is 
nine miles to the shore of the Lake at Meredith Cove, 
and 13 to Centre Harbour. 

For some miles before reaching that place, the country 
begins to assume the features of bold and mountain 



aOUTE TO THE V7H1TE MOUNTAINS. iSS 

scenery. Even before arriving at the lake, the prospect 
is varied with many of those noble elevations which rise 
to such a height of grandeur and sublimity as the traveller 
proceeds; and the frequent glimpses afforded between the 
sloping hills, over the beautiful lake below, by a happy 
contrast, increase the effect. 

WiNNEPisKOGEE Lake. The number and diversity of 
the islands with which the lake is spangled, will be ob- 
jects of particular admiration. They are countless for 
multitude, and in size present all gradations between a 
single rock and a surface sufficient for several extensive 
farms. Gunstock Mountain lies south of the lake. 

Centre Harbour. Here the traveller will be amply 
rewarded, if the weather be fine, by stopping at least a 
•day to make an excursion to the top of 

Red Mountain. This eminence may be about 1500 
feet in height, and is accessible for about two-thirds of 
ihe way in a carriage or on horseback, though not with- 
out some difficulty, on account of the steepness and 
roughness of the road. Indeed the path is very rocky 
for half a mile or more before reaching the base of the 
mountain, and the hardy pedestrian will prefer to leave 
his horse at the main road, before turning off by the brook. 
The traveller should direct his course towards a little 
■notch he will see about three quarters of the distance up, 
where a cultivated field and a fence are visible. From 
the house situated there, he must turn towards the left, 
and follow a path to the summit. 

An early visit is recommended, as the scene is much 
improved by an oblique light, and the morning is on seve- 
ral accounts to be preferred. 

The following sketch of the scene was noted down on 
the spot, and maybe taken as generally correct. 

Nortk, the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of a 
ipond lying near it, with the range of the Sandwich Moun- 
tains behmd, stretching off towards the east, with numer- 
ous dark brown peaks, partly cultivated about their bases, 
and enveloped above with forests, excepting their sum- 
mits, which are generally divested of verdure. Far be- 
yond these appear several loftier peaks, which might be 
eaistakenfof ike White Mountains, were they visible froia 



190 TIEW FROM RED MOUNTAIN. 

this point. An intermediate peak with rocky precipices 
may be While-faced Mountain, 

East-Northeast. The eye ranges up the spacious val- 
ley through which lies the way to the White Mountains, 
and the road which is to conduct the traveller seenis di- 
minished to the dimensions of a garden walk. Chocamay, 
or, as it is familiarly called, Corroioay Peak, rises on the 
left; while the noble ridge of the Ossipee Mountains be 
gins nearer at hand on the right, and almost overshadows 
ttie observer with its enormous size. The sides of these 
mountains show a beautiful display of farms, interspersed 
with wood-lots and dwellings, which in many places have 
encroached far towards the summits, and in others pursue 
the slope of the fertile uplands to the valley at their feet. 
Numerous elevations appear at a greater distance, and 
range themselves in lines to complete the perspective of 
a most magnificent vista, which finally closes at a ridge, 
whose shade is reduced by its remoteness to the colour 
of a cloud. A prominent and remarkable mountain, 
which appears scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket 
Mountam, and rises by the Saco River, near the place 
where Capt. Level fought his well-known battle with the 
Indians ; and the fine valley between is the country pass- 
ed over in that fatal expedition, in both the approach and 
the retreat. 

East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains, 
and no variety is afforded until we turn to the 

South-Southeast. In that direction, and farther to the 
right, the whole surface of Winnipiseogee Lake lies 
charmingly spread out to view, varied by numerous points 
and headlands, and interspersed with beautiful islands 
which man despairs to number. Several distant eleva- 
tions appear, on this side of which the sloping land just 
mentioned ejctends for several miles along the shore, with 
a well-cultivated surface spotted in all directions with 
large barns and farm-houses, to the very margin of the 
lake. There numerous points run out far into the water, 
10 co.mplete the labyrinths formed by the islands. Gun- 
stock Mountain rises one point east of south, just on the 
left of which opens the entrance of Merry-meeting Bay. 
Title eleygited island on the fight of that is Rattlesnake 



liOUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. i'91 

Island, named from the venemous reptiles with which it 
abounds ; over this the distant land appears high. South 
-by west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the 
richness of its slopes. 

The Southwest and West is agreeably varied with 
wood lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated 
surface, which extends for many miles, in some places 
quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken boundary 
of tall but distant mountains. In the southwest ap- 
pear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are 
almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen 
several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching 
as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come 
near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring 
mountains. 

Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining surface 
between the west and south, with several other little 
sheets of water, which lie ia tranquillity under the sheltec 
of the hills. 

Wmnipiseogce Lake is 19 miles in length, from Centre 
Harbour to Alton, at the southeastern extremity. Merry- 
meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are large, 
and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants, although 
oidy two or three of them belong to any town, or pay any 
taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake, Cow , Bear, 
and Moon Island ; also, Half Mile, One Mile, Two Mile 
Islands, &c. &c. None of them contain churches ; and 
although ttiev have no school houses, yet sufficient atten- 
tion is paid to the rudiments of education to render the 
children intelligent. Wmnipiseogce Lake, according to 
surveys made by Mr. Baldwin in 1825, is 501 feet above 
the ocean. 

Squam Lake lies west from Red Mountain, and like 
Winnipiseogee Lake, abounds not only in islands, but 
in fish of the finest descriptions. Fine trout are caught 
here in great abundance, and of a size superior to those 
of the other lake. The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake 
vary from 1 to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam 
Lake are between 4 and 10. They are sometimes caught 
■of nearly double this size; but that is very uncommon. 
The trout fishery is chiefly carried on during the winter, 

17- 



192 CoNWAt. 

when great quantities are salted for the Boston nlarket. 
Perch also abound very much in these waters, and are re- 
markably fine. 

The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the 
mountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose 
fragments ; and musquetoes and black flies often abound 
there. 

A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very 
agreeably, in making excursions in the neighbourhood, or 
in sailing upon the lake, which abounds in the most inter- 
esting variety of scenes. On leaving this ])lace by water, 
at the distance of five miles, the White Mountains rise 
into view above the intermediate peaks, and continue in 
sight quite across the lake. 

From Centre Harbour to Conway. Proceeding north- 
east from Centre Harbour, you enter the valley between 
the two chains of mountains seen from the top of Red 
Mountain, and pass through Moultonboro' and Tamworth. 
The surface is irregular, and much of the land uncleared ; 
but settlements have extended far up the sides of some 
of the mountains, and farms are occasionally discovered 
quite at the top. The features of the scenery are bold 
and striking. 

Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly from 
this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the road. 

Conway, six miles. The view of the White Moun- 
tains is very fine from this place, presenting a succession 
of lofty ridges, the most distant of whic\i are the peaks of 
Mounts Wastiington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, 
and Quincy. The most prominent elevation on the right, 
with two summits, is Kearsearge, or Pickwaket : a level 
meadow lies in the foreground with an isolated, woody 
hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which rises on 
Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow valley, with 
many meanderlngs. 

The shortest road from Conway to the mountains leads 
directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as well as the 
most agreeable route is by the way of Fryeburgh, where 
will be seen the beautiful tract of level country through 
which meanders the Saco River ; and the great Pick- 
waket Mountain, which rises from its border. That was 
the beautiful and favourite residence of the nation of Pick- 



PRYEBURGH. 193 

waUet Indians, and on the bank of Level's Pond was 
foug-ht a bloody battle , between them and a company of 
troops from Massachusetts, in the year 1725 

The Chalybeate Spring in Conway is in a valley, with 
mountains on every side except the southeast. From near 
the church, the White Mountains are in sight. Two or 
three miles above, the Saco valley bends to the left, and 
Ellis's River comes down a narrow vale in front. Up 
the course of this stream was formerly a route by which 
the highest peaks were ascended. A foot path leaves it 
in Adams, and goes on to Shelburne, &x;. It is seven 
miles to Bartlett. 

Fr YE BURGH. The township of Fryeburgh, in its ex- 
tent of six square miles, embraces a rich and beautiful 
valley, secluded on every side by a wild and mountainous 
range of country. The Saco river, taking its rise on 
Mount Washington, and flowing through the Notch in the 
White HillS) passes down the valley to Conway, where it 
finds the tei-mination of the southern range ; and them 
turning abruptly to the east, soon enters the charming 
meadov/s of Fryeburgh, and performs a serpentine course 
of no less thar, thirty-six miles within the limits of the 
township. 

The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western 
side of the village, which commands a view of the Saco 
valk'y six miles ap its course, and six miles down. 

Lovel's Pone is on an isthmus, about one mile south» 
east from the village, and is memorable as the scene cf 
one of the most severe and disastrous battles in the old 
partizan warfare against the Indians. 

The Portland road passes along the western side of the 
pond, and affords a view of its north end. This was the 
place of the action. Another road runs very near the 
north shore ; and it is a pleasant ride to the place. 

LoveVs Expedition. In 1725, Captain Lovel under- 
took a secret expedition through the wilderness against 
the Pickwaket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the 
French, had committed many depredations on the fron- 
tier, so that the general coui't of Massachusetts had offer- 
ed one hundred pounds each for their scalps. His com- 
pany consisted of thirty or forty men, many of them 
accustomed to the life of hardy hunters and settlers, with 



194 THE INUNDATION OF 1826. 

young Mr. Frye for their chaplain, whose history was 
somewhat romantic, and from whom this town received 
its name. 

They passed up Winnip'seogee Lake, Ossipee Pond, 
the Saco, and encamped at the mouth of Mill Brook at the 
northwest corner of Lovel's Pond. It happened that the 
Indians had gone down the Saco River, and on their re- 
turn, discovering tracks, pursued them towards Lovel's 
Pond ; and, having discovered the encampment, and the 
way they had gone, removed their packs, and forming an 
ambush around the place fired upon them on their re- 
turn, and killed eight men. The white men retreated to 
the northeast corner of the pond, where is a narrow strip 
of land, and defended themselves till night ; end the re- 
mains of the unfortunate expedition returned through the 
forest, suffering from hunger and fatigue, and some of 
them from wounds. 

A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the White 
Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 18^6. A storm 
of rain, unprecedented within the memory of the oldest 
inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of the moun- 
tains, and poured such an inundation upon the valleys and 
plains below, that it is commonly attributed to the " burst- 
ing of a cloud;" although that expression is a very ill 
defined one. The effects produced by the flood will re- 
main for centuries ; and as many of these lie exposed to 
the eye, the route will offer many new objects interesting 
to an intelligent traveller. 

The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the 
channels of the streams were totally insufficient to admit 
of the passage of the water, which consequently over- 
flowed the little level valleys at the feet of the mountains. 
Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all sides ; 
and such deep trenches were cut by the rushing water, 
that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the moun- 
tains, bearing .with them the forests that had covered 
them for ages. Some of these '* slides," as they are hei'e 
popularly denominated, (known among the Alps as " ava- 
lanches de tcrre,^') are supposed to have been half a 
mile in breadth, and from one to five miles in length. 
Scarcely any natural occurrence can be imagined more 
sublime ; and among the devastation which it has left to 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 195 

testify the power of the elements, the traveller will be 
filled with awe at the thought of that Being, by whom they 
are controlled and directed. 

The streams brought away with them immense quan- 
tities of earth and sand, which the turbid water deposit- 
ed, when any obstacle threw it back, in temporary 
ponds and laKes. The forest trees were also floated 
down, frequently several miles from the places where 
they were rooted up. The timber was often marked 
with deep grooves and trenches made by the rocks which 
passed over them during their descent from the moun- 
tains ; and great heaps of trees were deposited in some 
places, while in others, the soil of the little meadows 
was buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the depth of seve- 
ral feet. 

The turnpike road leading through this romantic coun- 
try, was twenty miles in length, but was almost en- 
tirely destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges 
upon it were demolished; one of them, built with stone, 
cost one thousand dollars. In some places, the Saco 
river ran along the road, and cut down deep channels. 

The Notch House, (which is represented in the print,) 
was the scene of a most melancholy tragedy on the night 
above mentioned, when this inundation occurred. Seve- 
ral days previously a large " slide" came down from the 
mountains behind it, and passed so near as to cause great 
alarm, without any injury to the inmates. The house was 
occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose wife was a young 
woman of a very interesting character, and of an edu- 
cation not to be looked for in so wild a region. They 
had a number of young children, and th.eir family at the 
time included several other persons, amounting in all to 
eleven. They were waked in the night by the noise of 
the storm, or more probably, by the second descent of 
avalanches from the neighbouring mountains : and fled 
in their night clothes from the house to seek their safe- 
ty, but thus threw themselves in the way of destruction. 
One of the slides, 100 feet high, stopped within three 
feet of the house. Another took away the barn, and 
overwhelmed the family. Nothing was found of them 
for some time : their clothes were lying at their bed- 
sides, the house had been started on its foundation, by 



196 Crawford's fakm. 

an immense heap of earth and timber, which had slid 
down and stopped as soon as it touched it ; and they 
had all been crushed on leaving the door, or borne 
away with the water that overflowed the meadow. The 
bodies of several of them were never found. A catastro- 
phe so melancholy, and at the same time so singular in 
its circumstances, has hax-dly ever occurred. It will al- 
ways furnish the traveller with a melancholy subject of 
reflection. 

Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a rich 
valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view is 
bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. There 
is another interval among the mountains westward, which, 
although it contains as much good cleared land, has been 
converted into a common, in consequence of the difficulty 
of making a good road to it. Pursuing still the course of 
the narrow valley, against the current of the Saco, the 
country is found uncleared, except two or three pretty 
little meadows ; and destitute of inhabitants, excepting 
only three or four poor families, until arriving at 

Crawford's Farm, seven and a half miles south of 
the Notch. Here the traveller will be comfortably enter- 
tained. The water rose in this house two feet in the flood 
of 1826. This is the place from which visiters formerly 
began their excursions to the summit of the mountains. 

Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre- 
sents itself to view a little before arriving at the first 
Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown 
xnoss, rising several hundred feet above the region of 
vegetation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes 
these from the other elevations. 

The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm as to 
favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely to be 
found a few miles further north. The forests are here 
formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, sugar maple, and 
Indian corn grows well, which will not come to maturity 
beyond. The orchard contains hundreds of apple trees. 

This is one of the principal stopping places for the 
sleighs, which pass the mountains in great number during 
the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. 

Nancy^s Hill is a small elevation a few miles north of 
this place. In 1773 a young woman of respectable con- 



THE WHITE MOUNTAliSrS. 197 

nexions, who accompanied a family of settlers to Dart'' 
mouth, (now Jefferson,) set out in the winter to return to 
Portsmouth, alone anrl on foot, her lover having promised 
to meet her there and marry her. There was then no 
house nearer than Bartlett, 30 miles. Nancy was found 
by some travellers in this spot, frozen and covered with 
ice, under a shelter formed of branches of trees, which 
was the only shelter to be found on the way. 

The Notch House is situated in a secluded little valley, 
about 5 miles north of Crawford's, and is the only build" 
ing seen in a distance of 12 miles. It has sometimes been 
uninhabited during the summer season, though open to all 
comers : in the winter a family occupies it to keep a fire^ 
lodgings, and a little food, provided for the travellers and 
wagoners, who might otherwise perish for want of the 
necessaries of life. See page 135. 

The climate is so cold, that the land was not worth culti- 
vating ; and although the place had been occupied by 
several tenants, no one will keep the bouse in repair, even 
rent free. There are no good uplands, the soil there be- 
ing all gravel : and the climate is sensibly colder than at 
the last stopping place. 

There is a place near the Notch, Avhere the road suffer- 
ed severe injury. It had been built up against the side of 
a mountain, on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, and about 30 
yards in extent, at the expense of $500. This whole 
fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, rocks and trees, 
which came from a half a mile up the side of the moun- 
tain, and, rushing down at an angle of about 45 deg. prC'^ 
cipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearly 
300 feet below. 

In repairing this road in the v»'inter, the workmen had 
great difficulty in getting over the obstructions. They ex- 
pected to find but httle daylight at that late season of the 
year ; but they found that the summits of the mountains 
received very early intelligence of morning, and the snows 
reflected it into the valleys and ravines. 

The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable 
distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller ob- 
serves two cataracts, one pouring down a precipitous 
mountain at a distance on the west side of the valley, and 
the other, which is called 



198 MOUNT WASHINGTON, 

The Flume, rushing down on the right hand, and 
crossing the road under a bridge. The scenery is sub- 
Jime and impressive beyond description. Just beyond is 
another Flume. 

About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen in 
coming from the Notch. 

Tke Notch is so narrow as to allow only room enough 
for the path and the Saco, which is here a mere brook 
only four feet in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco 
and the Ammonoosuc spring from fountains on Mount 
Washington, within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, 
though the former empties into the Atlantic, and the latter 
joins Connecticut River. Another branch of the Ammo- 
noosuc approaches the Saco in one place, within about 
6'0O yards. They are both crossed beyond the Notch. 
The head waters of the Merrimack rise within about a 
mile and a half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, 
Jittle less- remarkable than that of the Saco. 

A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It 
was 50 or 60 feet higher than the present turnpike, and so 
steep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons up 
with ropes. The assessment for the turnpike was made 
in 1806. 

Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable pas- 
sage, one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in perpendicu- 
lar height. They are about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 
yards from the north end ; where they open to 30 feet. 
The part which appears to have been cut through is about 
120 feet long. A little meadow opens beyond ; where is 
an inn, at which the traveller is advised to stop. 

This is the place where those who meditate the ascent 
of Mount Washington, will stop for a day or more. The 
master of the house will furnish a guide. 

Mount Washington. The ascent of the mountain was 
formerly a most arduous undertaking, and was very rarely 
performed, but several ladies have lately been enumerated 
among those who have gained the summit The whole 
way lies through a perfect forest. The first four miles are 
over a sui-face comparatively level; but the last two miles 
and a quarter are up an ascent not differing much frora 
an angle of forty-five degrees. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 199 

T?lie time to perform the different parts of this excur" 
sion may be estimated as follows '. 

To the base of Mount Washington, 4 miles, 1 hour | 
thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods. 2 or 2| hours ; 
returning from the summit to the base, 1$ hours ; thence to 
the inn, 1 hour. 

The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are to 
be crossed seven times, show the ravages of the inunda- 
tion of 1826. 

The Caw^?.— Here provisions of different kinds will be 
produced, and even cooked by a cheerful fire ; and if the 
travellers are sportsmen, and the season is favourable, a 
dish of fine trout may soon be obtained from the romantic 
little stream which dashes by within twenty yards of the 
encampment. 

The ascent of Mount Washington is laborious, and the 
Ynost arduous exertion will be necessary to attain the 
summit, which seems to fly before the stranger when he 
deems it just attained, and to look down in derision from 
a new and more hopeless height. The first part of the 
way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, which is 
suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and gnarled fir 
trees, 10 or 15 feet high, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards 
broad ; whinh, ending as suddenly as they began, give 
place to a kind of short bushes, and finally a thin bed of 
moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense granite 
rocks which deform the surface. For more than a mile, 
the surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- 
gling spiders, and several species of little flowering plants, 
are the only objects that attract the attention, under the 
feet. 

The following heights are stated to be those of the 
different peaks, above the level of the Connecticut River 
at Lancaster : 

Washmgton, 5,350; Jefferson, 5,261; Adams, 5,183 ; 
Madison, 5,039 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quincy, 4,470. 

Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 
feet above the ocean. 

In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and almost 

boundless. The finest part of it is towards the southeast 

and south. Looking down the valley, through which the 

Toad has conducted us, a fine succession of mountainous 

18 



SOO VIEW fROM MOUNT WASHINGTON^ 

summits appear for many miles, extending below the briglit 
surface of Winipiseogee Lake. 

Towards the southeast also, the eye ranges over an ex- 
tent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Moun'^ 
tains, hills, and valleys, farm-houses, villages, and towns, 
add their variety to the natural features of the country J 
and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the 
help of a telescope, although the sharpest sight perhaps 
has never been able to distinguish it without such assist- 
ance. In that direction lies Portland, the capital of 
Mame ; and nearer, Level's Pond. 

On the northeast is ' seen the valley of the Androscog* 
gin River, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery, 
and was the usual passage by which the Indians, in their 
hostile incursions from Canada., used to approach the 
eastern frontier settlements of Massachusetts and New- 
Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the 
extremity of Maine. 

North, the country is more wild and uncultivated J 
and Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the An- 
droscoggin. 

West, the nearer view is over a mountainous region, 
covered with a thick forest, through which only an occa^ 
sional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or 
clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills are 
seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticut River^ 
the surface of which is everywhere hidden from view, 
and the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate in 
the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. 

South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. 

The Indians knew the White Mountains by the name 
of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inaccessible, or at 
least represented them so to white men. 

The Lake of the Clottds is a little pond, near the 
summit of Mount Monroe, of beautiful clear water; and 
supplies the head stream of the Ammonoosuc River. This 
little current immediately begins its descent, and dashes 
in a headlong course of several thousand feet, into the 
valley near the encampment. 

Loose fragments of granite are everywhere scattered 
over the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. The 
granite is generally gray, and at first fine-grained, but 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 201 

grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled 
with small garnets. At the summit it frequently contains 
a little black tourmaline, sometimes in crossing crystals- 
On the summit, also, some of the granite is tinged with 
red, although much of it is coloured bright green by lich- 
ens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter- 
spersed with thick and soft gray moss.' The grain of the 
coarse granite is elongated; and what strikes the visiter 
as very singular, is, that not a single rock is to be found 
in its original place — every thing bears the maT-k of re- 
moval ; and this, taken into view with the precipice on 
the northern side, seems to indicate that the summit of 
the mountain has fallen down and disappeared. 

General Remarks. — All travellers of taste and leisure 
will be desirous of spending some time among the impres- 
sive scenery of these stupendous mountains. 

Although the peaks of Ktardin and Speckled Mountain, 
in Maine, have been, by some, compared with Mount 
Washington, it has been done on mere conjecture, and 
with little appearance of probability. The general belief 
now seems to be, that the lofty peak above us is the high- 
est elevation in North America, except Mexico, and some 
of the Rocky Mountains. The inhospitable nature of the 
climate is such as to forbid all hopes of future impi'ove- 
ment ; so that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the 
lonely and desolate character of this desert region, is in- 
creased by the reflection, that it is destined to be a wil- 
derness for ever. 

The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart 
of the mountains, are the little meadows inhabited by sin- 
gle families, and that at the " Notch House;" and there 
the interval of warm weather is so short in the year, that 
few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all the rapidity 
of growth v/hich distinguishes such cold regions. Indeed, 
the shortness and uncertainty of crops, with the expense 
of keeping stock, &c. would scarcely allow the farmer a 
support, without the advantages afforded by the thorough- 
fare, which is particularly great during the winter season. 
Population, therefore, may extend to the borders of these 
regions, and increase, as it does, on every side; but it 
cannot pass the limit, because it cannot contend with their 
coldness and sterilitv. 



202 ROADS. 

Various kinds of ^^•ild birds and game are to be found 
in the woods, besides bears, wild cats, and deer. The 
moose and buffalo were formerly abundant among the 
mountains ; and it is scarcely thirty years since they were 
killed in great number's, merely for their hides and tallow; 
as the latter still are in the deserts beyond the Mississippi. 
Deer are common in the woods, and frequently are killed 
by the hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into 
the little meadow before Ethan Crawford's house, and 
quietly graze with the cattle. Black bears are occasion- 
ally seen in the more unfrequented places, but they will 
always endeavour to avoid a man A large species of 
elk, here known by the name of the Casiboo,, has made 
its appeai'ance in the White Mountains within a few 
years, but they are still very scarce in this part of the 
country. 

The weather is liable to frequent changes in the moun- 
tainous region, which is partly owing to the vicinity of the 
Notch, through which the wind blows, almost without 
ceasing, even when the air is perfectly still at only a short 
distance from it From the situation of the mountains,, 
it is impossible that the direction of the v/ind should vary 
materially in the valley ;, and it is therefore, of course, al- 
ways north or south. During the winter it is often very 
violent, so that not only the snow is prevented from lying 
on the path at the Notch ; but the surface is swept of 
every thing that a stEong wind can remove. 

The summits of the mountains are frequently invested 
with mist, when the sky is clear; and those only who in- 
habit the viciaity, are able to tell whether the day is to be. 
favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect 
in the valleys, and then present some of the most singulas" 
and beautiful appearances. 

Roads. There are two roads hence to Connecticut Ri 
ver ; one over Cherry Mountain (quite laborious) to Lan- 
caster; the other shorter, through Breton Woods, Beth- 
lehem and Littleton, (rough and stony,) to Bath, 3.4 naiks.* 
[See Index ] 



LYNN. 203 



ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

Steam Navigation extends from Boston to Portland, 
Bath, Eastport, and about 40 miles to Augusta in another 
direction, 128 miles. Railroad (144 m.) through Lynn 10, 
Salem 5, Beverly 3, Rowley 13, Newburyport 3, East 
Kingston, N. H. 11. Stagecoaches to Exeter 4, Portsmouth 
14. York, (Maine) 9, Wells 15, Kennebunk Point 6, 
Saco 10, Portland 16. 

Do. by Sf.eamhoats, 126 m. Nahant 10, Marblehead 
6, Saiem 3, Gloucester 8, Cape Ann, 10, Newbury 16, 
Boar's Head Point 7, Portsmouth 12, York 5, Kenne- 
bunk 12, Fletcher's Neck 12, Cape Elizabeth 13, Port- 
land 10. 

The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so near 
the shore as to afford many interesting views of the nu- 
merous islands, points, and bays, which abound along the 
coast. 

Theie are coaches going to Salem every hour in the 
morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be convenient 
to lake a seat in one of them, as Salem is well worthy of 
at least a day's delay. Indeed, if convenient, the stranger 
vi'ould be gratified with several rides in the vicinity of that 
place, particularly to Marblehead. 

Lynn, 9 miles from Boston. This town is devoted to 
making shoes ; great numbers of which are annually ex- 
ported. Each house, almost without exception, has a 
little shop connected with it, in which the men and boys 
employ themselves in this manufacture. 

The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been 
made, is m this town, and lies on the way to the fashion- 
able retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offering an 
excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. 
The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the 
famous sea serpent was seen several years ago. 

The country beyond is rather hilly and uninteresting ; 
but the road is good. 

Beverly is a town which joins Salem so closely, as 
apparently to form a part of it. It has a long street 
through which we pass, nearly at the foot of a high, bar- 
18-^ 



204 SALEM. 

ren hill. Thfs eminence is remarkable in the history of 
witchcraft ; as it is the spot where numerous persons con' 
demned for that crime, in Salem, were executed. 

Salem. This i§ one of the most populous, wealthy* 
and beautiful towns in New-England. It was one of 
the earliest settlements made in Massachusetts Ba:y j and 
the planting of the colony is anmaaUy celebrated. Go- 
vernor Endicott, one of the most distinguished indivi- 
duals in the early history of this part of the country, re- 
sided here. 

Salem was for many years engaged in an exteoaive and 
lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and the 
appearance of the town is sufficient to show that it still 
contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour is fine, and 
the wharves still well supplied with stores. The streets 
are generally too narrow ; but the banks, insurance ofSces, 
and churches, are many of them handsome buildings. The 
Square is a large and beautiful tract of ground, near the 
centre of the town. About it are seen many of the finest 
private buildings in the place. 

The Marine Museum is an institution highly creditable 
to the town, under an association of respectable nautical 
and commercial individuals, formed for the purpose of 
making useful observations, and collecting curiosities 
from all quarters of the world. No one can become a 
member who has not double'^ Cape Horn, or the Cape of 
Good Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; 
and each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he 
is to note down such remarks as he thinks important, 
during his voyages. These are submitted to the inspec- 
tion of a committee; and the curiosities brought home 
are deposited in a handsome building belongmg to the 
society, which is well worthy the particular attention of 
strangers. 

Access is readily gained by application to any of the 
members ; this extensive and highly interesting cabinet 
being closed only for the purpose of security, and no fee 
being required for admission. The room is large, well 
lighted, and filled with curiosities from all quarters of the 
world, and many specimens belonging to all the branches 
of natural history. The arrangement is made with great 



FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 205 

taste, and several hours, or indeed days, will hardly be 
sufficient for an examination of all it contains. 

The following Imes were written after a visit to this in- 
eresting Institution, by Beltrami, a distinguished scientific 
traveller, in the year 1837. 

•' Siste Viator! Siste, mirare i est Orbis in urbe, 

'* Et prsebet pulchrurn cuncia miranda Salem. — 

♦* Obstupui, hie Superum, nine hominum prodigia vidi, 

"Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis et Ipse favent. — 

** Oh America ; Oh, feUx tellus, populusque beatus ! 

*' Quam nobis toUunt dant tibi fata vicem.— 

Makblehead. There is a good road to this town, 
■which stands at the end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles 
southeast from Salem. It is principally inhabited by 
fishermen, whose manner of life precludes, in a great de- 
gree, the intellectual improvement generally so character- 
istic of New-England. The harbour is a small bay, pro- 
tected by barren rocks, and affords shelter to the numer- 
ous fishing schooners employed in the Cod fishery. The 
men and boys are absent from home a great part of the 
year; as each vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, 
or "ya?"e5," as they are here called, every season. They 
lie on the Banks until they have caught a load of fish, 
which are opened and salted as soon as taken. The ves- 
sels then return, and the fish are spread to dry on wooden 
frames, called flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen 
on the shore. A few vessels still go to the Labrador 
coast for fish. There is a fort at the extremity of the 
town, which commands the entrance to the harbour, and 
affords a view of many miles over the neighbouring sheets 
of water. The islands at the enti'ance of Salem are wild 
and rocky : and the sea breaks over them with violence in 
an easterly storm. Towards the south are seen several 
headlands of this iron-bound coast; which, for a great 
extent, even down to the extremity of Massachusetts, 
must have appeared one of the most inhospitable to the 
pilgrims, who began their settlements on this part of New- 
England. 

Newburyport. Stage House, or Merrimack Hotel, 
on the hill. This is a large, and to a considerable extent, 



206 AMESEURY. 

a regularly built town, 38 miles from Boston. The greater 
part of it lies in squares, and the best streets are entirely 
of brick. What is commonly called Newburyport, how" 
ever, is composed of two distinct towns. The original 
township of Newbury includes that part, which reaches 
to within about a quarter of a mile of the shore; and the 
rest is all which is properly speaking called Newbury- 
port. 

The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a brisk 
and lucrative commerce. 

The bi-idge over the Merrimack, is a most beautiful 
structure. Its length is 1000 feet; and it has four arches 
and a drawbridge, on the side towards the town. The 
arches are supported by twelve chains, carried over four 
towers in the form of ])yramids, 31 feet above high water 
mark The bases of these towers are of hewn stone, 40 
by 30 feet, built on timber, each with a breakwater up the 
stream. The chains, separately, are strong enough to 
bear 22 tons. The bridge, with the road to Newburyport, 
cost $66,000. 

Hampton, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a good 
hotel, which commands an agreeable view upon the ocean, 
and the shore about the Boar's Head. 

Portsmouth, 62 miles from Boston, 58 from Portland. 
The environs of the town show many neat and pleasant 
houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is principally 
of brick, with some handsome public buildings, although 
the streets are generally too narrow. It has been a place 
of much commerce. The Navy Yard, on an island op- 
posite the town, contains two large ship buildings, one for 
frigates and the other for line-of-battle ships. 

The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the state 
of Maine, which was, until within twenty years, a dis- 
trict of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. The 
navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, &c. 

Ames BURY is a manufacturing place on the Powow 
river, 3 miles from Newburyport. The river is made to 
drain several ponds by an arched tunnel made through a 
hill about a century ago. 

The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, 
generally very poor, without trees, and changing only 
from sand to rocks- 



FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 207 

York. There ai-e some pleasant fields about this little 
place, but its size is insignificant, when contrasted with the 
anticipations formed of its destiny at the time of its first 
settlement : for the ground was laid out for a city, and the 
divisions of the land still retain much of the regular form, 
given it by the first surveyors. 

The Nubble is a rocky point, 4^ miles from York, 
with a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, iu 
derision, the city, or metropolis of Cape Neddock, from 
a point of that name still further on. 

While travelling along this dreary country, near the 
road passes the site of an old fort or block house, built 
before Philip's war. 

The Agamenticus Hills form a range some distance 
west. 

Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- 
fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a 
rock ; but it is almost dry at low watei\ 

Welles. The sea often breaks beautifully on the 
beach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise Point is just dis- 
tinguishable in the northeast ; and the view of the sea is 
fine and refreshing. 

Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which falls 
a small stream, from the height of 30 feet, about 40 yards 
from the path. 

The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of a mile 
north from the church. 

This little fortress was once attacked by 500 Indians, 
who at first supposed, as was the fact, that the men were 
absent from home. The place was, however, very brave- 
ly and succetisfuUy defended by five women, who put on 
their husbands' clothes. 

Kennebunk, 25 miles from Portland, is a small place, 
which once carried on a considerable lumber trade with 
the West Indies. 

Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this 
village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount 
Washington. Cutts's Island of 75 acres divides the stream, 
just at the falls. 

Portland, 15 miles. The situation of this place is 
remarkably fine, occupying the ridge and side of a high 
point of land with a handsome, though shallow bay, on one 



208 PORTLAND. 

side, and the harbour on the other. The anchorage is 
protected on every side by land, the water is deep, and the 
communication with the sea direct and convenient. Con- 
gress-street runs along the ridge of the hill, and contains 
a number of very elegant private houses. There is also 
the Town Hall, with the market below, and a beautiful 
new church, with granite columns. The steps are fine 
blocks of granite, 6 feet by 9, brought from the quarry at 
Brunswick, 22 miles distant. 

From the Observatory, south and southwest, are se- 
veral distant eminences : among others, the Agamenticus 
Hills ; northwest are seen, in clear weather, the lofty 
ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New-Hampshire, 
which are discovered at sea, often before the nearer land 
appears in sight. 

Cape Elizabeth is the high land on the south side of 
the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its en- 
trance, ai'e called Bangs's and House Islands. Fort 
Preble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only a 
block house, on the latter. Due east is Seguin Light; 
House, which is visible in clear weather, 32 miles distant, 
at the mouth of the Kennebec. Nearer, and in the same 
quarter, lie numerous islands of various forms. 

The intrenchments on the hill, west of the Observatory, 
belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were made in 
the Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, on the water's 
edge, is Fort Burroughs. 

Portland (the former name was Falmouth) was burnt 
in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Movvatt, in the British 
sloop of War Canceau, on the 18ih of October, 1775, on 
the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up their arms. 
About 130 houses, three quarters of all the place con- 
tained, were consumed, some being set on fire with brands, 
after a cannonade and bombardment of nine hours. The 
old church is among the buildings saved, and has the 
mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitchell's 
hotel belonged to one of the houses not destroyed. 

There are some fine stores and dwelling houses in the 
middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves 
and shipping. There is a small Museum. 

Remarks to the Traveller at Portland. Bostom 
coaches leave here every morning. 



ROUTES IN MAINE. 209 

The communication with Dover, Concord, &c. is easy, 
Sind the traveller going m that direction is referred to the 
index for those and other places in his way. He may 
take the route to the White Hills by Fryeburgh ; the road 
leads through a v/ild and thinly populated country, but is 
not devoid of interest. The stagecoach reaches Conway 
in a day by this route, passing through Gorham, Standish, 
Baldwin, Hiram, and Fryeburgh. 

The eastern and northeastern routes only, remain to 
be spoken of. The road along the sea coast is more un- 
interesting, passing over a rocky soil, and is recommended 
in going from Portland. The upper road leads through 
a considerable extent of fertile country, indeed the garden 
of Maine, and shows several pleasant and flourishing vil- 
lages, by which it may be more agreeable to return. 

Remarks on the Country Northeast from Portland. 
In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil of 
Maine, the improvement of the country has been much 
retarded. Settlements were made on the coast as early 
as 1607, and several others not long afterwards ; but 
they suffered severely in the Indian wars ; and their vi- 
cinity to the French mission^, which embraced all the 
eastern part of the present state, exposed them to immi- 
nent danger. In later times the population was princi" 
pally confined to the sea coast, for the convenience of 
fishing and commerce ; and thus the good land, which lies 
some distance back in the country, was almost entirely 
neglected. After the Revolutionary war, this extensive 
region remained in the condition of a district belonging to 
Massachusetts. In 1820, it was received into the Union 
as a separate state ; and agriculture having been intro- 
duced, the emigration from the neighbouring states has 
rapidly swelled its population. 

In travelling in Maine, the stranger observes the same 
order of things as in the interior of New-York, Ohio, and 
other parts of the country, which are fast improving. It 
is but a few years since agriculture was almost unknown 
here, and now the interior region between the Kennebec 
and Penobscot rivers is well peopled, and presents a scene 
of rural cultivation and prosperity rarely equalled. That 
is of course the most attractive route for the traveller ; 
and the road from Portland lies through Augusta and 



SiO STEAMED At S. 

Hallovvell. Those who are going to New-Brunswick, 
&c. are advised to take this route, unless they prefer the 
less fatiguing mode of travelling in the steamboat. 

Most persons going eastward from Portland, will wish 
to z'eturn ; and the brief tour which we shall give will be 
planned for their convenience and pleasure, by proceeding 
first along the sea coast, and then returning through the 
fine tract of country in the interior. 

It may be proper here to mention, that two roads have 
been projected to Quebec ; one by the river Kennebec, 
and the other by the Penobscot. At present there are no 
roads through the northern wilderness, though a commu- 
nication has been kept up that way for several years, and 
herds of cattle are occasionally driven into Canada. The 
hardy and enterprising traveller may, perhaps, be willing 
to encounter the inconvenience of lodging in the open air, 
and such fare as the wilderness affords ; but few will at- 
tempt the route for pleasure, until the intended improve- 
ments shall have been made. 

The distances of the principal places on the routes 
from Portland are as follov/s : 

Routes from Portland. To Boston, see page 203. To 
the White Hills and Connecticut river, by daily stage- 
coaches, Westbrook, Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hii-am, 
Brownsfield, Fryeburgh, Conway, (from Portland 62 m.) 
Bartlett, Hart's Location, Old Crawford's Notch House, 
Notch, Notch Meadow, E. A. Crawford's. Thence two 
roads *, one to Lancaster, and the other through Nash and 
Sawyer's Location, by Rosebi'ook's, in Britton Woods, 
and through Littleton to Bethlehem, 48 miles from Con- 
way. 

From Portland to Quebec, 258 miles. N. Yarmouth, 
12; Freeport, 6; Brunswick, 9; Bovvdoinham, 13; Gai-d- 
ner, 11; Hallowell, 4; Augusta, 3 ; Sidney, 12; Water- 
ville, 5 ; Norridgewock, 16 ; Solon, 20 ; Moscow, 13 ; 
Kennebec river, 17 ; Monumet, 48 ; St. Joseph, 54 ; St. 
Henry, 28 ; Quebec, 12. 

From Portland to Eastport, 231 miles. Brunswick, 
(as above,) 27 ; Bath, 7; Wiscasset, 15; Waldoborough, 
18 ; WaiTen, 9 ; Thomaston, 4; Camden, 11 ; Belfast, 18 ; 
Castine, (in a boat,) 9; Bluehill, 10; Ellsworth, 14; 



ROUTES IN MAINE. 211 

Franklin, 12 ; Cherryfield, 20 ; Columbia, 12 ; Macliias; 
15 : Whiting, 15 ; Eastport, 15. 

Travelling round to the head of Casco Bay, you pass 
through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and arrive at 
Brunswick, 26 miles. This is the site of Bowdoin Col- 
lege, the principal institution of the state- 
There is a fall on the Androscoggin river at this plaee ; 
below which booms are extended across to keep together 
the lumber which is brought down every season in great 
quantities. 

The whole road from Portland to Bath, thirty-four 
miles, lies along the coast, where the soil is rocky and 
poor. 

Bath is a town of considerable trade, situated on the 
Kennebec, at the distance of sixteen miles from the sea. 
Here are several public buildings, and among the rest 
two banks. 

Woolwich is opposite Bath. 

WiscASSET, 14 miles from Bath. This is one of the 
principal ports of the state, and has an excelleat harbour 
at the mouth of the Sheepscot River. 

Stagecoaches run north to Bangor, on the Penobscot. 
They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, Waldobo- 
rough. Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Belmont. There 
are two branch lines : one to Thomastown through War- 
ren ; and another to Hamden, through Camden, Lincoln- 
shire, Northport, Belfast, Swanville, and Frankfort. 

From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; 
but the ride presents many interesting views, as the land- 
scape is continually changing, and is often varied by the 
sight of Damascotta River, and several beautiful little 
lakes or ponds. 

Booth Bay lies off the road from Wiscasset to Dama- 
scotta. It has a commodious harbour, with a number of 
islands in the vicinity ; and the neighbouring high ground 
affords a very fine and extensive view. The hill, on the 
eastern side of the bay, was surveyed for a city in the 
early part of the last century, which was to have borne 
the name of Townsend, but the building of it was never 
begun. The harbour has been considered a good site for 
a naval depot. 

Antiquities, Two or three miles off the road, between 
19 



^12 WALDOBOROUGH. 

Linniken's Bay and Damascotta River, where was fof* 
merly an Indian carrying place, the remains of cellar 
walJs and chimneys are found, as also broken kettles, 
wedg-es, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of 
two of three large vessels sunk in the water ; and on the 
shore, the ruins of an old grist mill, where the present 
one stands. On the islands opposite the town, are other 
aruins, the history of which is unknown, as well as that of 
those already mentioned. The only fact which seems to 
alFord any guide to their origin, is, that Sir John Popham 
made an attempt to build a town at the mouth of the Ken- 
nebec, in the year 1607. 

WALDoBORotfGH, 10 miles ; Warren, 7 miles; Thomas- 
town. Central Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of 
marble and limestone, from the latter of which about 
iOOjGOO barrels of lime are made every year for exporta- 
tion. The marble is also wrought in considerable quanti» 
ties. A visit to the workshops may be interesting, as the 
"Operation of polishing is performed by machinery moved 
by water. There is a cotton manufactory on Mill River. 
The village is fifteen miles from the sea. 

The State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- 
sant situation. It has solitc(,ry cells, built of granite, in 
blocks from four to six feet in length, and two in thick- 
ness. Each cell has an opening at the top, with small 
holes in the walls for the admission of fresh air, which, 
■during the winter season, is warmed before it is admitted. 
The warden's house is also built of granite, and is two 
stories high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on 
each side. The prison yard is surrounded by a circular 
wooden paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which 
is a lime quarry. Several workshops on the ground serve 
the purposes of the convicts, who are employed in burning 
lime and other manufactures. 

T\ie Knox Estate. About half a mile from the State 
Prison is the ancient residence of the late General Knox. 

From Thomastown to Belfast, (thirty miles, j the road 
is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Bay, 
with a few islands on the right, and a partially cultivated 
country on the left, with some mountainous scenes. Bel* 
fast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situated on the side 
of a hill. The road hence to Castine, round the bay> is 



ROUTE IN MAINE. 213 

thirly-five miles, passing through Prospect, Buckport, 
Orland and Penobscot. 

Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, and 
the British intrenchments are to be seen on the hill 
above. 

Eastport is important as the frontier post of the Unit- 
ed States on the sea coast towards the British possessions. 
It is on the southeastern part of Moose Island, in Passa- 
maquoddy Bay, and connected with the main land by a 
bridge. The spot was almost uninhabited thirty years 
ago ; but now it contains three places of worship. There 
are fortifications and a few troops. A line of steamboats 
is established between this place and Boston, touching at 
Portland, &c. 

Lubec is situated near the entrance of the Bay, opposite 
Campobello. 

Perry, the village of the Passamaquoddy Indians, lies 
northward from Eastport 

On the Schoodic River the land is high, and the scenes 
striking. Robbinston stands at its mouth ; and Calais 
twelve miles above, at the head of navigation. The coun- 
try north and west of this place is said to be very valuable 
for grazing, being undulating, with a good soil and climate, 
and at present well wooded, with conveniences for trans- 
portation by sea. 

The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the course 
of the Penobscot River. 

Bangor is a very flourishing village, newly risen into 
importance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of 
the interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a command- 
ing position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined 
to experience a great and rapid increase , proportioned to 
the extension of settlements in the upper country. The 
scenery here begins to assume much of that mountain- 
ous character, which prevails so extensively through a 
large part of the interior. A very conspicuous and noble 
eminence is observed at a distance in the north, called 
Ktardin Mountain, the elevation of which has never, it 
is believed, been accurately ascertained. It is considered 
the highest land in the state, and has been compared for 
altitude with Mount Washington in New-Hampshire. 
In the year 1825, the land agents visited a tract of 



214 PEGIPSCOT FALLS. 

country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who 
had been before unknown as belonging to the state, hav- 
ing never been represented in the legislature, or included 
in any census. They are partly descendants of refugees, 
and partly half-pay officers, Irish and Scotch. The vast 
tract of wilderness intervening between them and the 
lower country had pi'evented intercourse. Their country 
is rich and beautiful, on the St. John's River, near the 
boundary of New Brunswick ; and many of them desired 
to be received into the jurisdiction of the State Govern- 
ment. The question has since caused much excite- 
ment. 

From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking 
the route through the finest part of the state of Maine. 
The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, 
lies through a region rapidly improving under the ma- 
nagement of an active, industrious, and increasing popu- 
lation. 

Augusta is the capital of the state, a considerable town, 
and very flourishing. It is situated at the falls of the 
Kennebec, where the water on the descent of the channel 
is sufficient to set in motion several hundred wheels. 

At the mouth of this river, at Georgetown, berj'ls 
have been found, in a ridge of granite country. Some 
are fifteen inches long and six thick. They are associ- 
ated with schorl. 

Pegipscot Falls. Near Lewistown, on the Andros- 
coggin River, is a remarkable cataract, where the cur- 
rent breaks through a range of mountains, and pours 
over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and 
striking, and derives an additional interest, from its con- 
nexion with the history of a tribe of Indians long since 
extinct. 

According to a tradition current in the neighbourhood, 
the upper parts of this stream were formerly the resi- 
dence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine 
and fertile plain through which the river winds. The 
situation was remote, and they had never engaged in 
any hostilities with the whites, but devoted themselves 
to hunting and fishing. The ground still contains many 
remains of their weapons, utensils, &c. They were, 
however, at length persuaded to engage in a hostile in- 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 215 

cui'sion against Brunswick, at that time an exposed 
frontier settlement; and the whole tribe embarked in 
their canoes to accomplish the enterprise. The stream 
flows gently on for a great distance, until it approaches 
very near to the falls ; and this was the spot appointed for 
the night encampment Night set in befoi'e their arrival ; 
and they sent two men forward to make fires upon the 
banks a little above the cataract. For some unknown 
reason, the fires were kindled below the falls ; and the 
Indians, being thus deceived concerning their situation, 
did not bring up their canoes to the shore in season, and 
were carried over the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed 
together. 

We now close the northern tours, and proceed to 

WASHINGTON; D. C. 

Washington, the seat of Government of the United 
States, is situated between the Potomac River and its 
eastern branch, about a mile and a half above their junc- 
tion. It is divided into three distinct parts, which are 
built about the Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the 
Pennsylvania Avenue. The Capitol is an immense build" 
ing with two wings, surrounded by an open piece of 
ground, terraced in front, and occupying an elevation^ 
which renders it a conspicuous object for several miles. 

The original plan of the city was very extensive ; the 
principal streets meeting from all points of the compass 
at the Capitol, and bearing the names of the older states 
of the union. Some of the minor streets are known by 
the names of the letters of the Alphabet; and tracts of 
ground were reserved for public squares. As Washing- 
ton, however, is chiefly dependent on the government 
for its support, the original scheme has been but faintly 
realized, and many of the streets have not even been 
opened. 

During the sessions of Congress, the place is thronged 
•with strangers from all parts of the country ; and the ses- 
sions of the Senate and Representatives, the proceedings of 
the Supreme Court, the Levees at the President's House^ 
the parties at the foreign ministers', &c. afford ample op- 
portunities for amusements of various kinds. At other 

19* 



216 THE DEPARTMENTS. 

seasons, however, there is little to interest the tha stranger 
except the public buildings and the Navy Yard. 

The Capitol presents specimens of various styles of 
architecture. On entei'ing the south wing several columns 
are seen, where carvings of Indian-corn stalks are substi- 
tuted for flutings and filletings ; while the capitals are 
made of the ears of corn half stripped, and disposed so as 
in some degree to resemble the Corinthian or Composite 
order. 

The Representatives^ Chamber is a fine semi-circu- 
lar apartment, with columns of a dark bluish siliceous 
pudding stone, hard and highly polished. It is lighted 
from above. The gallery is open during the debates, as 
well as the Senate Chamber, which is a much smaller 
apartment. 

The Library of Congress is in another part of the 
building ; and the Great Hall contains the four national 
pictures, painted for the government by Col. Ti'umbuU : 
the Declaration of Independence, the Surrender at Sara- 
toga and Yorktown, and Washington resigning his Com- 
mission ; each 12 feet by 18. 

A fine view is enjoyed from the top of the Capitol. You 
look along the Pennsylvania Avenue westward to the 
President's House, with Georgetown and the Potomac 
beyond ; the General Post Office, &c. on the right ; the 
Navy- Yard towards the southeast ; Greenleaf's Point 
nearly south ; and southwest the bridge over the Poto- 
mac, with the road to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. 
The canal begins south of the President's House, and 
terminates at the East Branch. 

The Fresidenfs House is a large building of white 
marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the 
Capitol, and near the public offices. It is surrounded by a 
wall, but without any other defence. The entrani'e hall 
leads into the drawing room, where the President's lady 
receives visiters at her levees. Two other apartments are 
thrown open on those occasions ; all handsomely furnished, 
and freely accessible, even to strangers. 

The Patent Office is well worthy of a visit, on account 
of the numerous curious models which it contains, relating 
to all branches of the arts. 

The Treasury, Navy, War, and Land Offices, are all in 



GEORGETOWN. 217 

ttie vicinity of the President's House; as are the resi- 
dences of the Foreign Ministers. The members of Con- 
gress, as well as the numerous strangers who resort hither 
during the sessions, find lodgings in the hotels and board- 
ing houses in different parts of the city, or in Georgetown. 

Georgetown is a considerable place, which by its 
proximity to Washington, seems almost a part of that city. 
The country around it is variegated, and the situation of 
the Romish College, a little way west, is picturesque. 
Still further in the same direction, there is a very pleasant 
ride along the bank of the Potomac, where Mason's Island 
is at first seen, near the mouth of the river, and afterwards 
the Nunnery upon the elevated banks. 

Whoever would understand convents should travel in 
Europe. This institution flourishes in consequence of the 
ignorance of many of our countrymen, with respect to 
the nature of convents, their over-estimation of certain 
branches, and their light esteem for the principles and 
blessings of the Reformation. Accompanying those are the 
proselyting spririt of the Jesuits, and the secret designs 
of the popes against the freedom of the United States, 
so actively seconded by the government of Austria. 

Some of the advocates of convents have professed to 
court pubHc attention and investigation for them. It 
would be well. We should find in them some of the 
images and pictures which are publicly worshipped in 
Komish countries. 

It is pretended that the education they afford, especially 
to females, is superior to any which American Protestants 
can give. Let its superiority then be thoroughly known ; 
and, let laws be passed, opening all schools, without dis 
tinction, to the thorough inspection of public officers at 
their pleasure. Let Congress, or any State Legistature 
or the people of any town where a conventual school exists, 
set the example ; and it will probably become general. 
Then if the advantages are so great, let the system be uni- 
versally adopted, even in our common schools ; and, if 
Hecessary import from fifty to a hundred thousand fo- 
reign teachers. Friars, and nuns, black, white and gray, 
might be obtained from Spain, and Jesuits in any numbers 
might be found lurking in secret, and under various names 
in many a corner, since they have been expelled with de- 



218 MOUNT VERNOxt. 

testation from almost every country in the world ejccept 
the United States. One of the most distinguished and 
virtuous statesmen of Colombia, on a visit to this country 
exclaimed with astonishment, when he heard that the edu- 
cation of any of our youth was committed to Jesuits, " Do 
you not know that they are the bitterest enemies of human 
liberty ? They are not tolerated in South America, nor even 
in Spain." This and the following memoi'able remark should 
be written on the door of every convent: " If the liberties 
of the United States are ever overthrown, it will be by 
Jesuit priests." — Lafayette. 

Alexandria. This is a large city and port, six miles 
from Washington, and contains some fine buildings, both 
public and private. The road which leads to it is good, 
in the pleasant season, although the country is little inha- 
bited, and the soil is impoverished by the cultivation of 
tobacco. This city is in the District of Columbia. 

Mount Vernon, the estate of the Washington family, 
is nine iriilea south from Alexandria, and is remarkable as 
containing the tomb of Gen. Washington. The road is 
somewhat intricate, and has but few inhabitants ; so that 
the stranger unless he goes in a steamboat, will need to 
make careful inquiries. The house stands on an emi- 
nence, looking down upon the Potomac. The buildings 
which project from each end, are the offices and habita- 
tions of the negroes. 

The key of the Bastile of Paris is h\ing up in the hall ; 
and a miniature portrait of Washington, from an earthen 
pitcher, is preserved, which is considered by the ftmily 
the best hkeness of him ever made. A beautiful lawn, 
partly shaded by trees, extends from the front of the man- 
sion to the verge of the precipice, which overhangs the Po- 
tomac, and affords a delightful view upon the river and a 
tract of hilly country above and below. 

This is the place to which Washington retired after he 
had accomplished the independence of his country, and 
again when he had presided at the consolidation of the 
government; voluntarily resigning the stations he had 
consented to accept, and the power he had exercised only 
for the good of his country. To an American, this place 
is interesting, in a degree which no language can either 
heighten or describe. Whoever appreciates the value oi 



ROUTE TO VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 219 

private and social virtue, will rejoice to find it associated 
with the traits of a personage so distinguished and influen- 
tial ; the consistent politician will rejoice toreflect that his 
pi'inciples of natural freedom were not restricted to any 
j^ortion of the world, or any part of the human race; while 
any one, who can duly estimate the extent of the blessings 
he has conferred on his country, and the influence of his 
actions on the happiness of the world, v/ill wish that his 
history may ever be cherished, as a model of sincere and 
disinterested patriotism. 

Washington^ s Tomb was until lately in a little grove of 
cedars a shorr, distance southwai'd from the house, and 
near the brow of the precipitous shore. It is now at a 
short distance from that spot, a new family tomb having been 
erected. The great man, who had rendered to his country 
the most important military and civil services she ever re- 
ceived, left his mortal remains to be deposited in this 
humble cemetery ; and that country has never yet expressed 
its gratitude by erecting a monument to his memory, 
though to her he devoted his life, and to her he has be- 
queathed a character, on which no successful attempt has 
ever yet been made to discover a shadow or to fix a stain. 

Virginia Springs. Warm Spring 213 miles, TVhite 
Sulphur 256 m., &c. 

These are now annually visited by many persons from 
the north, as well as from other parts of the country ; and 
the variety of scenery recommends them to the attention 
of every traveller of taste, no less than their medicinal 
properties to the iu valid. 

From Washington stagecoaches depart daily, passing 
through Alexandria 9 miles. Fairfax Court-house 15, 
Centrevllle 8, Bull Run 3, Buckland Mills 11. New- 
Baltimore 4, Warrenton 6, Lee's Sulphur Spring 6, Jef- 
ferson 3, Fairfax 13, Cedar Mountain 6, Rapidan 6, 
Orange Court-house 7,* Gordonsville 8, Monticello 16, 
Charlottesville 3, t York 19, Waynesboro' 6, Staunton 

* Montpelier, the seat of President Madison, is 5 miles from this 
place. The JS'atural Bridge is in Rockbridge county, 12 miles S. 
\V. from Lexington It is about 200 feet high. 

t At CharlottJ^sville is the University founded by Thomas JefiFer- 
.-son, adorned with beautiful marble, colonnades, &.c. His aeat is on a 
tali 2 miles distant. 



220 BALTIMORE. 

12, Jennings' North Mountain 17, Cloverdalc 12, Green 
Valley 11, Warm Springs 13, Hot Springs 5, Jackson 
River 9, White Sulphur Springs 29, Sweet Sulphur, do. 
28, Salt Sulphur, do. 1. (Distance from Washington 
385 miles.) 

Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United 
States, and carries on an extensive commerce. 

The harbour in the Patapsco River, has a narrow en- 
trance, and is well protected by high ground. On the 
side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of consider- 
able size, where is a fort, and whence a commanding view 
is enjoyed. 

FeWs Point is a part of the city, about a mile below, 
where most of the stores and shipping are found. Many 
of the streets of Baltimore arc broad, cross at right angles, 
and are ornamented with fine buildings both public and 
private. 

The Washington Monument. This is a large column 
of marble in a commanding position, at the head of 
Charles-street, rising to the height of 163 feet. It is 14 
feet m diameter at the top, and 20 below, with a base 23 
feet in height, and 50 square. It is one of the finest mo- 
numents in the United States, and the only one worthy 
the memory of the great man to whom it is erected. 

The Battle Monument was recently erected, in memory 
of those who fell in the defence of the city in Septem- 
ber, 1814. 

The Public Fountain is a fine spring of water in the 
western part of the city, surrounded by a public square, 
laid out in walks and shaded with trees. 

The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant rides ; 
and the communication with different places is easy, by 
various modes of conveyance. Steamboats go to Nor- 
folk, in Virginia, but the passage is uninteresting ; and 
those who wish to see Washington, (38 miles distant,) 
will go by the railroad. 

Battle of Baliimore. This battle took place at Long 
Point, in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of British 
vessels at the mouth of the Patapsco, on the 12th landed 
between 7000 and 8000 men on Long Point, 14 miles 
from the city. Sixteen bomb vessels in the mean time 



ftoUTES TO OHIO. 221 

went up the river, and anchored about 2| miles from Fort 
McHenry. General Strieker took, position at tiie two 
roads leading to North Point, his right on Bear Creek, 
and his left on a marsh. The enemy joined in a general 
battle. After an hour and twenty minutes the 51st regi- 
ment gave way, and General Strieker retired to his re- 
serve, whither the enemy did not follow. He lost about 
150 killed and wounded in this action, in which the citi- 
zens of Baltimore distinguished themselves. The British 
v/as computed at 600 or 700 ; and among them was their 
commander. Gen. Ross. 

The bomb vessels which attacked Fort McHenry were 
unsuccessful, being met with a manly resistance; and the 
troops re-embarked and relinquished the enterprise, 

Baltimore had 101,378 inhabitants in 1840. The bar, 
bour has 18 feet water. Fort McHenry 1^ miles below, at 
the mouth of Patapsco river, was bombarded by the Bri- 
tish in 1814. 

Waslungton Monument is 163 feet, with a colossal 
statue. 

Ellicott's Mills 13 miles, is a romantic spot. The rail- 
road crosses a line viaduct; and there are many stone 
factories and mills for cotton, woollen, flour, iron, &c. &c. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad^ in use to Harper's 
Ferry, 81 miles, rims southwest to Patapsco river, at Elk- 
ridge Landing, up that stream, down Bush Creek, and 
the Monocacy, up the Potomac to Harper's Ferry. It is 
partly finished to Wheeling, 280 miles from Baltimore. 
The summit is 2500 feet above tide, A branch 3^ miles 
long, leads to Fredericktovvn. 

The Washington Railroad is a branch of the Baltimore 
and Ohio railroad, leaving it 8 miles from Baltimore, and 
has a very long and lofty embankment and a fine viaduct, 
St leads through Bladensburg, and ends in Pennsylvania 
Avenue, | mile from the Capitol, in Washington. It 
meets, 18 miles from Baltimore with 

The Annapolis and Elkridge Railroad, 2Q miles, which 
leads southeast to Annapolis, 

OHIO, 

This new and flourishing state will be visited by tra- 
VieUers of intelligenoej disposed to witness the aspect of 



222 CINCINNATI, 

a country which has been the theatre of a most rapid kn-^' 
provement. 

The following may be recommended as a general tour. 
First proceed to Wheeling ; down the Ohio river to- 
Cincinnati ; across the country to Sandusky Bay by the 
western route in good stage coaches ; thence by steam- 
boat to Detroit, and if desired onward to the western 
lakes. — Returning, by steam, land at Cleaveland, and 
make an excursion on the canal, (which, although about 
350 miles long, is not very interesting.) Then take 
steamboat to Buffalo^ whence the traveller may take what 
route he prefers. 

Pittsburgh. This is more like a manufacturing town 
in England, than any other in the United States. It 
would surpass our limits to enumerate all the manufac- 
tories here. 

The great steamboat, Missouri, built at Pittsburgh, in 
1841, is 233 feet by 59 (including guards,) and of 600 
ton&. It plies between New-Orleans and St. Louis. 

The extensive coal mines in this vicinity are 329 feet 
above the Ohio, and 543 feet above Lake Erie. 

The appearance of the country along the Ohio at 
Wheeling, is remarkably beautilul; and it has thence de- 
rived the name of Belmont. The land is undulating, and 
rises gradually for a distance back, affording many fine 
retrospects to a traveller in that direction, over a well cul- 
tivated region. Considerable quantities of tobacco are 
now raised here. 

Cincinnati. The streets cross each other at right an- 
glas, and those parallel to the Ohio, are numbered 1st, 2d 
3d, &c. except the two next the shore. The Miami canal 
passes through three of the streets. The principal build- 
ings are the Court-house, Jail, Post-office, Hospital, Col- 
lege, Medical Colleafe, Mechanics' Institute, Council 
Chamber, Churches, Theatre, Amphitheatre, &c. Capital 
employed in manufactures in 1841, 14| nnillions ; pro- 
duct of mechanical labour 17| millions. There are 130 
different branches of manufacture, employing 1000 mas- 
ter employers, and 10,000 working people. There are a 
Commercial Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, Medical College, 
and the Western Museum. 



Tm-LATyELfniA. 223 



ROUTE FROM N. YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. 

From New-York to Philadelphia, by the Camden and 
Amboy Railroad 85 miles The boat from the Battery 
to Amboy, New-Jersey 23 m. railroad, to Hightstown 20, 
Bordentown 14, Steamboat to Bristol, Pennsylvania 9, 
Burlington, New-Jersey 1, Philadelphia 18. 

Do. by Railroad, through Newark, &c. From Bar- 
clay-street Ferry to Jersey city, New-Jersey, 1 mile, 
Newark 8, Elizabethtown 6, Rahway 5, New-Brunswick 
13j Trenton 26, Bristol 11, Philadelphia 17. 

THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

Philadelphia is the second city, for size, in tbc United 
States ; and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, 
which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and 
are of equal and convenient breadth. 

It will lie convenient to the stranger to recollect that 
the streets running north and suuth are named First, Se- 
cond, Third, &c. beginning on both sides of the city on 
the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they meet 
at the square near ihe centre^ The streets which run 
east and west, are generally named after trees; the lanes 
and alleys, after shrubs, &c. 

The Market. This consists of a succession of build- 
ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the 
fish market on the river's bank to Eighth- street, and from 
Broad-street to Schuylkill, 5th-street, affording room for a 
convenient display of articles. 

The Exchange is on Third and Dock-streets, with the 
Post-office in the basement, (here is a stand for omni- 
busses,) Blind Institution in Race-street 

The Bank of the United States, in Chesnut-slreet, be- 
tween Fourth and Fifth, is built of white marble in the 
form of a temple, with two fronts, each ornamented with 
eight fine Doric columns, of the ancient proportions with- 
out bases. 

20 



224 THE ACADSMT OF ARTS. 

Girard Bank, in Third, facing Doek-sfrcet, is also* 
of marble, and presents a beautiful row of six Connthian 
columns. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite, has two fronts, 
on Second and Dock-streets, each with six Ionic columns. 

The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth and 
Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, with court rooms, 
&c. at either end. In the front room, enst of the main 
entrance, the old Continental Congress held their sessions; 
and there the Declaration of Independence was signed, 
July 4th, 1776. 

The Athenceum is adjoining, open all dny to strangers. 

The Philosophical 8ociety''s Library and Cabinet, 

Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground 
behind the State House. 

City Library, Fifth-street, open to the public from 2, 
P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's clock. 

The University contains a medical department and the 
Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. 

The Arcade, in Chesnut-street, is a fine building of 
stone. The Philadelphia Museum of Mr. Peale in the 
northern part. It contains a large collection of curiosi- 
ties of various descriptions. The huge skeleton of a mam- 
moth is represented entire; for the parts which were defi- 
cient on one side, have been supplied by imitations of 
those on the other. 

Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth- 
street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with 
a range of wooden columns. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and admira- 
ble institution, in the next street, where great numbers 
of sick are attended. Twenty-five cents will secure ad- 
mission to the building and gardens, and also to the top. 
West's Celebrated Picture of Christ healing the sick,. 
is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite side 
of the street. 

The Theatre, in Chesnut-street, between Sixth and 
Seveath-streetf y has a marble front. 

The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat 
in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. 

The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between Tenth 
and Eleventh, contains a collection of statues, busts, &e<. 



PHILADELPHIA. 225 

Ka mai'ble and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted 
from the top", and beyond, a gallery of pictures with 
many specimens of the works of American ardsts. 

The Orphans^ and the Widows^ Asylums are in the 
western part of the city. 

Academy of Natural Sciences, Penn's House, Letitia 
■Court, United States Mint, &c. &c. 

There are two medical institutions in this city, where 
lectures are delivered to great numbers of students. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable institu- 
tion ; as is xkiQ Friends^ Alms House in Walnut-street, 
•between Thii-d and Fourth, where poor families are 
placed in separate houses, among small gardens, and 
furnished with empl-oyment. 

Girard College, founded by the late Stephen Girard, 
is on the Ridge Road, a little out of the city. The main 
building is of three stories, 169 feet in length, and 111 
"vvide, with an elegant portico with marble columns. 

The banks of the Schuylkill are well formed for the 
'display of the large public edifices which will be per- 
ceived ranged along their eminences for two or three m^les, 
to the honour of Philadelphia, and the ornament of its 
environs. 

Mr. PratVs Garden is about three miles northwest 
from the centre of the city, and worthy of a visit. The 
situation is agreeable and commanding, on a little cape or 
promontory on the Schuylkill ; and from the gravelled 
walks, the visiter enjovs a view down the river, of the 
basin, the dam, the Water Works, below which are the 
State Prison, House of Refuge, Hospital, the two bridges, 
and on the opposite side a handsome seat called " Wood- 
lands." The Western Railroad leads through it. 

The Schuylkill Water Works. There is a large stone 
building of chaste architecture, containing five large water 
wheels, which are capable of raising seven millions of gal- 
lons in twenty-four hoars. They are turned by a current 
from the dam above. The reservoirs are on the hill 
above, which is higher than any part of t?ie city, which it 
supplies. They both contain eleven millions of gallons. 

Penitentiary. This is a large and singular construc- 
tion. The prisoners are kept in solitary confinement. 
The wall is forty feet high, built of granite, and eu- 



226 MINERAI.S IN PENNSYLVANIA. 

closes a square, 650 feet on each side. The ceils are 
formed in seven long stone galleries, an octagon in the 
centre. The entrances to the cells are through little yards 
from the outside, and each has a wicket door in the gal- 
lery. A centinel in the octagon, by turning on his heel, 
can look through all the galleries ; and the arched roofs 
reverbercLte every sound, so that he can hear a very slight 
noise. 

The Naval Hospitul is situated about two miles south- 
west from the centre of the city. The expense is defray- 
ed by funds contributed by the officers and seamen of 
the U. S. navy, out of their pay. The building is on 
an eminence, commands an extensive view, and makes 
a fine appearance from a distance. The front is 3&6 feet 
in length, three stories high, and it is large enough to 
lodg« 300 or 400 persons. The first story is of granite, 
and the second and third of marble, both of which kinds 
of stone are found in abundance in the vicinity of Phila- 
delphia. 

The Navy Yard, (on the banks of the Delaware.) 
Here, as in most of the principal navy yards of the U. 
States, ships of war are built under the shelter of im- 
mense buildings, which protect the workmen and the 
timber from exposure to the weather. The line of battle 
ship Pennsylvania, the" Franklin" and " North Carolina," 
and the frigates United States and Guerriere were built 
at this place. 

The north side of the navy yard is devoted to brick 
buildings for the residence of officers, ship timber, &c. 
while at the south end are the workshops. The Marine 
Barracks are on the western side ; and the area of the 
yard, which is walled with brick, is about twelve acres. 

The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia present 
a beautiful scene of fertility and cultivation. A ride in 
that direction at morning or evening is recommended. 

Geology of Pennsylvania. A geological survey of 
this state has been in progress five years at the direction 
of the Legislature, by Professor Rogers. Serpentine, 
asbestos, and many interesting minerals, are found in 
the southeastern part at Chestnut Hill. Bituminous coal 
beds exist west of the AUeghanies in many places, (becom- 
ing more bituminous as you go north,) and anthracit© 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 227 ' 

a,5t; of them. The purest Lehigh coal contains 88^ per 
cent of carbon, and Schuylkill, 92 ; Bituminous, 87. 
There are numerous veins of brown oxide and compact 
carbonate of iron: the latter occurring with both kinds 
■t>f coal. Some of the ores yield about 70 per cent of 
iron. Magnetic oxide is found in the southeastern part 
of the state. Silicate of zinc, yielding 50,40 of metal, 
is found in Northumberland county. 

The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal is intended for 
sloops of the largest class, and schooners : the locks being 
100 by 22 feet, and the canal 60 feet wide at the water 
line. 

The principal objects are the harbour on the Dela- 
ware, the adjoining embankment on St. George's Marsh, 
ihe Deep Cut, and the Summit Bridge. 

The Harbour on the Delaware is at Delaware City. 
It is formed by two piers running into the water: one 
500 feet long, and the other 600, with a return pier of 
100 feet. 

The Pennsylva-Nia. Canals. Under this general 
name is comprehended a great and extensive system of 
internal improvements, for several years designed, and 
partly accomplished, by the Legislature of this state. 

ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal 
between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, at a distance 
of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadelphia, that re- 
gion has become an object of great interest. 

In the tract of country north from Philadelphia, are 
found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in elevated ridges 
and mountains of the Alleghany range, which are sup- 
posed to be connected with those which are known on the 
western side of the range, although they are of different 
characteristics. The western coal is easily combustible, 
and resembles that imported from Liverpool, &c. while 
the former is hard, very difficult to kindle, and burns with 
very little flame. It is, however, of great purity, being- of 
that sort known to geologists by the name of Anthracite, 
and is now very extensively used for fuel in Philadelphia, 
New-York, and different narts of the country. The varie- 
20* 



228 SCHUYLKILL NAVIGATION, 

ties of this coal come down in a kind of rude square boats, 
called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 inches of water, but 
containing about 260 bushels each, which may usually be 
seen on the shores of the Schuylkill, and at the wharves in 
the Delaware. It is only a few years since this coal was 
supposed to be entirely worthless ; and now the demand is 
enormous. 

The whole length of the line of navigation, undertaken 
by the Schuylkill company, is 108 miles ; and the work was 
considered the greatest ever performed in this country by 
a company. It commences at the Lancaster Schuylkill 
bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon ; 62 miles of it are by 
canals, and 46 by pools in the river. 

The obstacles which the surface of the country presents 
to works of such a nature in this state, are unusually great, 
as may be supposed, when it is remarked, that eight ranges 
of mountains pass through Pennsylvania from northeast to 
southwest, and that the height of land is supposed to be 8 or 
900 feet in the lowest place, so that the rivers descend very 
much in their courses. It has been necessary to make 
more lockages on the Schuylkill line, than on the whole 
Erie canal in New-York. Beside this, the country is of 
the tran:*ition formation, with sloping strata, which cause 
much leaking. 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines at Mauch Chunk. 

There are three routes from Philadelphia by which ' 
Mauch Chunk may be reached: 1st. By the way of Beth- 
lehem. 2d. By the way of Easton through Doylestown- — 
and 3d. By the way of Bristol ; also through Easton. By 
either route you reach the village in a day and a half. 

Canal Route to the Schuylkill Coal Mines at 
Mount Carbon. 

Manayunk is a large manufacturing village, furnished 
■with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through which the 
boat will pass. 

Plymouth Locks. The marble quarries ar« in tbit vi« 
cinity. 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 229 

NoRTliSTOWN contains some fine houses, as well as a 
court house, jail, and two churches, one in the Gothic 
style, which stands in a conspicuous situation. 

Reading, 54 miles from Philadelphia, is a place of 
considerable importance, inhabited by Germans, and con- 
tains some handsome public buildings. The Union Canal 
begins 2 miles below Reading, passes up the western shore 
of the river to the valley of the Tulpehocken; and then 
follows that valley till within 5 miles of Lebanon, where 
begins the summit level. In all this distance it rises 311 
feet, by numerous locks of 4 and 8 feet lift. The canal is 
24 feet \vide at bottom, 4 deep and 36 on the surface. — 
On this part of the canal is the Tunnel; an excavation 
bored through a hill for a distance of 729 feet, the face of 
the hill having been cut away at the entrance 25 feet. This 
dark and gloomy passage is 18 feet in breadth and 14 feet 

high. 

We return to the Schuylkill Navigation. Frrm 
Reading, the road passes for some distance near the river, 
and affords an opportunity to see the canals, dams, &c. 
made to assist the navigation. 

The road to Hamburgh from Reading, lies through the 
Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania ; which has the 
Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue 
Ridge on the south. The surface is beautifully varied by 
the natural undulations of the surface. 

Hamburgh is a small village with nearly a hundred 
houses, with a church situated in a romantic position, at 
the entrance of the 

Schuylkill Water Gap. This is a narrow gorge, 
through which the river runs over a steep and rocky chan- 
nel for 4 or 5 miles ; I.-aving no room upon its banks, 
which rise abruptly on each side to the height of 
ses'eral hundred feet. The road has been cut out along 
the face of one of these ranges, at a great elevation ; 
where the surface is in many places of such a declivity, 
as to require it to be supported by walls of stone. The 
views which are here 'afforded to the traveller, are roman- 
tic and varied in a hiffh degree. 

The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the principal 
stream, runs through a valley of the same general descrip- 
tion ; and here lies the road to Motint Carbon. 



230 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

The Tunnel. This is a place where a hill has been 
bored through c575 yards for a canal, about 3 miles from 
Orwigsburg-h. 

Mount Carbon, 8 miles, is in sight of several coal 
mines. 

The coal country in this region begins in Ltizerne, on the 
upper part of the Lackawana river, following its course to 
the Susquehanna, and along that stream, principally on the 
eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond Wilkesbarre It runs 
south to the Lehigh river, and thence southwest, through 
Schuylkill county. 

It is estimated to extend about 100 miles ; and about the 
middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing narrower 
towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in 
beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally running east and 
west; and dipping to the south at 45'-', with a slate rock 
immediately over it, and strata of sandstone and earth 
above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity of coal, pre- 
sents the impressions of organized substances, at some an- 
cient period imbedded in its substance : such as the leaves 
of laurel, fern, &-c. 

In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins into 
the earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk shafts to 
the depth of 150 feet, with lateral excavations, east and 
west, of various lengths to 300. Two small carriages 
called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to bring the coal 
out, being made to descend by turns ; but in the horizontal 
one, which has been carried in several hundred feet, they 
employ wheelbarrows. Some of the veins run perpendicu- 
larly. 

The mammoth coal mine of Messrs. Stees and Oliver, 
near Pinegrove, took fire in March, 1841, and continued 
to burn. Beyond Newcastle, Pa. is a mine which has 
been burning several months, and formed several openings 
or craters on the top of a mountain. 

Road to the Lehigh Coal Mines at Mauch Chunk. 

Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles ; Branchtown, 
(Child's Tavern,) 4; Shoemakertown, 8 ; Jenkintown, 10; 
Abington, 12; Willowgrove, 14; Horsham, 16; Graham 
park, 22; Newville; Doylestown, 26; Danville, 29; Ro- 
derick's tavern, ; Tohicken bridge ; Easton, 5 ; Mauch 
Chunk. 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 231 

New Hofe is in a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill 
rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top affording a 
fine view. 

Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is 
beautiful. The course of the river appears at a Jittle dis- 
tance as if arrested by two opposite mountains, between 
which it flows in a narrow channel, suddenly contracting 
itself to a furlong's breadth from a broad, smooth, and un- 
broken sheet, like a lake of considerable extent. 

Easton is a village of some size, and a central point from 
which numerous roads diverge, and stage coaches run in 
various directions. It is situated in a rich valley, enclosed 
by the South and Blue Mountains. It is about 52 miles 
from Philadelphia and contains many inhabitants. Ex- 
cellent slates are made here. Within a compass of a 
mile and a half are 18 mills. 

The following is a list of distances from Easton on the 
different stage routes. New-York, 70 miles ; Schooley's 
Mountain, 23 ; Morristown, 41 ; New-Briins\\ ick, 45 ; 
Bethlehem, 12; Mauch Chunk, 34; Nazareth, 7; Dela- 
ware Wind Gap, 12 ; Water Gap, 20; Stroudsburgh, 27; 
Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 ; Reading, 52 ; Newtown, 
(Sussex county,) 40. 

The Delaware and Hudson Cana.l. It commences 
at Kingston on the Hudson river, and runs over to the 
Delaware river, through the valley of the Neversink creek, 
thence up the valley of the Delaware to the Lackawaxen 
creek, and up that creek to the foot of the railway. This 
is a continuous canal of 1 17 miles in length. The railway 
commences at the termination of the canal, and runs over 
Moosick mountain to the coal mines at Carbondale on the 
Lackawana creek, 16 1-2 miles, overcoming an elevation 
of 858 feet. 

At Easton will be seen the Dam over the Delaware, at 
the termination of the works for improving the navigation 
of Lehigh river, from Mauch Chunk to this place. 

The road to Mauch Chunk leads ihrough Bethlehem, 
12 miles. This is a neatly built place in a romantic and 
delightful situation, along the course of a swift running 
brook. It is inhabited by Germans, and little English will 
be heard spoken in the place. There is an old church and 



232 MA.UCH CHUNK. 

nn ncademy for the education of girls, under the manage- 
ment of the Moravians. 

The works on the Lehigh river are on a large scale. 
The river descends 365 feet, and requires 52 locks and 
21 dams. The locks are intended for steamboats capable 
of carrying 150 tons of coal, 100 feet long and 30 wide. 

The Lehigh Water Gap, 25 miles from Easton and 11 
from Lehighton, 6 miles from Mauch Chunk. Here is a 
bridge. The first objects that attract attention near the 
village of Mauch Chunk, are the lock in the river, and the 
chute or inclined plane, at the end of the railway, down 
which the loaded coal cars slide to the wharf on the river, 
where they load the boats and arks. The latter carry about 
30 tons. The train of cars coming down the railway 
will often be heard rumbling as the traveller approaches 
the village. 

Mauch Chunk, 90 miles from New-York and 70 from 
Philadelphia, There is a spacious hotel in this young and 
flourishing village, which has been v/ell kept, and serves 
as the rendezvous for numerous parties of visiters every 
season. There are few places where a stranger will find 
more to gratify him than here. The village is shut in by 
rude mountains, of such height that the sun is invisible to 
many of the inhabitants during the short days. The hotel 
commands a view of some parts of 

The Railiuay, which leads from near the coal mines to 
the Lehigh River. This was the second ever constructed 
in the United States — the Quincy Railway, in Massachu- 
setts, being the first. It extends a distance of nine miles, 
along the side of a mountain. 

The sleepers, on which the railway rests, are of wood. 
The rails are also of wood, 4 by 6 inches, and covered with 
an iron plate | of an inch thick. 

The coal mine lies a little on the opposite side of the 
mountain; and the coal cars are first di"awn by horses to 
the beginning of the railway up an acclivity of 5-8ths of a 
mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. 

Pleasure wagons, like dearborns, are occasionally used 
to carry strangers up and down the railway ; but they often 
go up in the I'eturning cars. The average I'ise of the way 
is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is scarcely perceptible to the 
eye, and permits a single horse to draw up three empty 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 233 

carsi In coming down, however, by their own gravity, the 
carriages would, if permitted, move with immense rapidity^ 
In 1827 they were restricted to a rate not exceeding 8 
miles an hour. It is said that they had previously gone 15 
and even 20. The road generally passes along a narrow 
shelf^ which is alarming to a stranger, particularly in de-" 
scending ; some of the precipices being 500 or 600 feet. 

The Tunnel is seen in going up, about 400 feet above 
the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 wide, and about 800 long. 
It was cut thi'ough the mountain in 1826, to obtain a short 
passage to a bed of coal supposed to lie on the other side. 
A shaft was sunk sixty-'four feet from the summit of the 
hill without finding coal ; five hundred feet beyond this 
shaft towards the norths a hole has been bored to the 
depth of one hundred and ten feet; coal was found at eighty 
feet, and the auger continued in coal to the extremity of 
the bore. The Company, however, were disappointed ; 
but they have an inexhaustible supply of this useful article, 
as their land extends 14 miles back from the river, and 
along the road ; and 10 or 12 miles are underlaid by beds 
of anthracite coal. 

The cars are made of strong oak timbers, and planked 
up on three sides, with a swinging door in the rear. 
Some have been constructed, in which stout sheet iron 
has been substituted for plank. They are six feet four 
inches long, three feet wide at top, and two feet at bot- 
tom^ and about three feet in depth, resting on wheels with 
cast iron rims or fellies two feet in diameter, one inch 
thick, and about four inches in breadth, with a strong 
edge or flanch, one inch in thickness, and about two 
inches wide, which prevents them from slipping off the 
rails. 

The cars may be stopped immediately by a long lever^ 
which brings strong bearers against two of the wheels, 
and causes great friction. The guide to every brigade of 
eleven cars holds a rope attached to all the levers. 

A curious machine, called the Brake, is also used. 

There is generally a stop to be made in the midst of 
the course, to wait for other cars passing, and to oil the 
wheels. 

Several ingenious experiments have been resorted to in 
different parts of the railroad, to avoid some inconve» 



S34 Routes prom philadelphii. 

niencies which might otherwise be caused by sudden turns, 
right angles, cross roads, bridges, Sec. The railway is in 
several parts supported by a stone wall at the side. Cross 
roads are not intercepted by it, for the rails are inter» 
rupted so as to correspond with the ruts; at the short 
turns, one rail is raised in a curve of a few inches to give 
the car a new direction ; and at a right angle, like those 
at the mine and at the chute above the Lehigh, revolving 
platforms are placed which turn the cars round, forty-iive 
degrees. 

The cars themselves weigh about 1500 lbs. each, and 
run on wheels two feet in diametei*. Strangers often make 
an excursion in them for the novelty of the mode of tra- 
velling. Several hundreds of such cars are in use* They 
carry the coal to the Chute above the river, down which 
they are sent 315 feet. 

At the end of the railroad is a platform on the bank 
of the Lehigh river, down which the coal is let over one 
of the rails on an inclined plane of 750 feet, (200 feet 
perpendicular height,) to the stone houses, the wharf 
and the boats. Each loaded car is connected to an empty 
one, which it draws up, by a rope that passes round a 
large cylinder or drum. A car goes down in about one 
minute and twenty seconds. The noise of the cars on the 
railway is perceptible at a great distance. 

The Mine, or quarry, opens upon the road by passages 
cut in the earth. These conduct into an area formed 
with great regularity, by the removal of coal, which has 
been dug out in such a manner as to keep the surface on 
an inclined [»lane, where the carts drive in, load, and then 
pass out at the other passage. The coal is very hard, 
pure and black, with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, and 
perfectly clean in handling. 

The surface of the ground was covered with a coat of 
sand two feet thick, interspersed with sandstone ; under 
that was eight feet of black pulverized coal; and then 
came the coal itself. 

Routes from Philadelphia to Baltimore and Pitts- 
burgh. 

From Philadelphia to Baltimore, through Frenchtown, 
115 miles by steamboat and railroad; steamboat to Fort 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 235 

Mifflin, Smiles; Chester, 10; Marcus Hook, 4; Christia- 
na Creek, Delaware, R ; New-Castle, 5 ; Railroad to 
Frenchtown, Maryland, 16 ; Steamboat to Turkey Point, 
13 ; Pool's Island, 22 ; Miller's Island, 8 ; North Point, 
8 ; Fort McHenry, 10 ; Baltimore, 3. 

Do. through Wilmington, 94 miles by railroad. To 
Wilmington, 28 miles; Elkton, 18; Port Deposit, 11 5 
Havre de Grace, 5 ; (Here you cross the Susquehannah 
near the lowerfalls in a steamboat) ; Bush River Viaduct, 
13 ; Gunpowder River Viaduct, (a mile long, a striking 
scene,) 8 ; Baltimore, 11. 

From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, 391 miles. The 
railroad (from Vine and Broad-streets,) leads through 
Pratt's Garden, and crosses Schuylkill river above Fair- 
mount, on a viaduct 1045 feet long, 30 above the water. 
It passes Buck Tavern, 1 1 miles from Philadelphia, 
Paoli, 10; Valley Creek, 8; Coatesville, 11; Gap, 11; 
Mill Creek, 6 ; Lancaster, 12 ; Mounfjoy, 12 ; Middletown, 
15 ; Harrisburgh, 9 ; Canal to the Gap of the Blue Ridge, 
5; Duncan's Island, 12 ; Newport, 10; Thompsontown, 
11; Milttintown, 11; Lewistown, 14; Waynesburgh, 14; 
Huntingdon, 29; Alexandria, 14; Williamsburgh, 12; 
HoUidaysburgh, 13. The Portage railroad, 37 miles 
long; crosses the Alleghany mountains to Johnstown, 
rising 1398 feet, and descending 1172, by five inclined 
planes on each side. On the top is the tunnel, 870 feet long, 
and 20 high. A canal to Laurel Hill, 7 ; (passing a tun- 
nel of 917 feet under a farm and a well ',) Lockport, 10; 
Blainsville, 13 ; Saltzburgh, 16 ; Warrentown, 12 ; Leech- 
burgh, 10; Alleghany Aqueduct, 3; Logan's Ferry, 15; 
Pittsburgh, 18. 

From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, railroad and stage 
route, 305 miles, about 3^ days ; railroad to Harrisburgh, 
105; Chamhersburgh, 51; stagecoaches to McConnels" 
town, 19; Bedford, 31; Shellsburgh, 9; Stoystown, 19; 
Laughlintown, 16 ; Greensburgh, 23 ; Pittsburgh, 32. 

ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

Leaving Philadelphia for New-York, the ship house, in 
the navy yard, is seen over the little island in the river« 
Near the upper part of the city are the ship yards ; and 

21 



§36 BlTtLE oj' thenton. 

beyond, three glass houses near the water, with white 
walls and black roofs. Steeples and shot towers ate the 
principal objects rising above the great mass of houses 
in the city. 

The banks of the Delaware are low, and present an utii- 
formity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The towns 
are, however^ interesting in the histoi'y of the revolution, 
as will be seen a little beyond. 

Burlington in New-Jersey, 18 miles from Philadel- 
phia, presents a handsome appearance ; with a row of 
fine residences facing the river, in front of which is a street 
with a beautiful sloping bank. 

Bristol, a little above, and on the opposite side, has 
also a number of gentlemen's seats ; and handsome 
flower gardens on the bank, ornamented with fine wil- 
lows, &c. 

BoRDENTOWN, 28 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 be- 
low Trenton, stands on a steep sand bank, through which 
a road is cut to the water. Just north of the village is the 
late residence of Joseph Bonaparte, the Coulit de Survil- 
liers, once King of Spain. 

Trenton, 33 m. from Philadelphia. This to-rtrn, at the 
falls of the river, is the capital of the state of New Jer- 
sey. Trenton is a town of considerable size, with a great 
number of stores and the aspect of business. The bridge 
across the Delaware has 5 arches, and is a handsome 
structure. 

Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are, and 
apparently forms a part of Trenton. 

The State Prison is situated a little south of the town. 

In Dec. 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east 
side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- 
horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Prince- 
ton and New-Brunswick, with their magazines, 

On Christmas night, three divisions of the American 
troops attempted to cross the Delaware 1 one at Bristol 
for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one nine 
miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was 
the largest, but principally militia ; it approached Trenton 
by two roads, attacking it at 8, A. M. very unexpectedly, 
and putting the English and German troops (about 1500) 
to the rout. 500 escaped ; the rest surrendered, being 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 237 

the regiments ofRalle, Anspacli,aTid Knyphausen. Rails 
was killed in resisting. The other divisions could not 
cross on account of the ice, and Washington returned with 
his captives and six pieces of artillery. This successful 
stroke greatly encouraged the country, as it was the first 
victory over those jerman mercenaries. 

Washington soon after recrossed the river, and posted 
his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan. 1777, Lord Coin- 
wallis reached Trenton ; and Washington fortified himself 
on the Assumsick. But he was too weak to hazard an 
engagement; and the Delaware was filled with ice. 

Being hardly pressed, Washington had formed the plan 
of a retreat, expecting to be unable to remove any thing 
but the soldiers and what they could carry, as the soil 
was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and wet, 
that wagons could not pass. Cornwallis had sent to 
Princeton for a regiment to join him, that he might attack 
the Americans immediately. In the night, however, 
General Greene reported that the weather had suddenly 
become cold ; and at midnight, Washington was able to 
begin his march, with all his baggage and artillery. This 
was done, and all the fires left burning. The British had 
no intimation of iheir departure until they heard the guns 
firing at Princeton. 

Princeton, 10 miles. This village is situated on an 
elevated ridge of land, which, on several sides, rises with 
a long and easy slope, and commar\ds a prospect of con- 
siderable extent. 

In approaching it from the west, the Theological Aca- 
demy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the 
right ; and Nassau Hall in the centre of the town, oppo- 
site the stage house. The college yard is large and 
shaded with trees ; and the burying ground contains the 
ashes of the presidents of the institution : Aaron Burr, 
Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finley, John 
Witherspoon, and Samuel S. Smith 

Washington met at Stony Brook, north of the pre- 
sent road, a little way from Princeton, and defeated the 
British regiment. He then marched north to the high 
grounds at Morristown. 

During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a can- 



238 BAY OP NEW-YORK. 

non shot entered the chapel, and tore away the head from 
a portrait of George III. 

New-Brunswick. Here steamboats as well as the rail- 
road communicate with Nev/-York. 

The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence the 
public buildings appear to good advantage, particularly 
the Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of 
the Dutch Reformed Church. The banks below'are pic- 
turesque, but afterwards are low and little varied. 

In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near 
Morristown to Middlebrook, where he intrenched himself 
on the heights, in full view of New- Brunswick. The Bri- 
tish tried various stratagems to decoy him from this com- 
manding position, and once succeeded ; but discovering 
their intentions to surround him, he quickly regained it, 
and they were soon after obliged to give up all hopes of 
penetrating in this direction, and devoted their attention 
to co-operating with Gen. Burgoyne, who was coming 
down towards Albany. 

Perth Amboy, 13 miles. Here is usually some ship- 
ping; but the place has little to attract observation. 

Emzabethtown Point, 15 miles from New-York. 
The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland 

Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few in- 
habitants, and a small cluster of houses. 

On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in 
the Narrows, between Staten and Long Islands, which is 
the passage to the sea. The city presents a close mass 
of houses, with Castle Williams on Governor's Island, 
seen near it on the right ; and Kllis's and Bedlow's Isl- 
ands on the left with their fortifications. On approach- 
ing, the prominentobjects are the tall steeples of numerous 
churches, the dome of the City Hall, and other prominent 
buildings. The clusters of trees observed on the shore in 
front of the city, are on the Battery : a place once fortified, 
but now the principal public square ; and Castle Clinton 
just west of it has been converted into a place of amuse- 
ment for summer evenings. 



VIRGINIA. 239 



ROUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

The Virginia Springs. Mineral springs of different 
kinds are found in almost every county in this state west of 
the Blue Ridge ; and some of them are much resorted to 
in late years by invahds and travellers for pleasure from a 
distance, not a few of whom come from the northern states. 
The accommodations are various. At some the visiter 
fares well ; at others, families find it necessary to take 
servants and some furniture with them, if they wish to be 
comfortable, as they will find no habitations provided, eK- 
cept small ones, chiefly log houses, while a common table 
is set in the hall of a pavilion. 

The Hot Sjyrings, in Bath county, are considered use- 
ful in rheumatic cases, and resorted to chiefly in July and 
August. The water of one is at 96°, and another as high 
as 112°, Fahrenheit. 

The Sweet Springs B.ve in Monroe county, and are at 
times much frequented by a variety of company. 

The Natiti'al Bridge is one of the greatest natural cu- 
riosities in the United States, It is so well formed, so 
safe and so conveniently situated, that it is crossed by a 
public road. The traveller, however, might easily pass it 
without observing it ; as it is 60 feet broad, and partly over- 
grown with trees. To see it a stop must be made, and 
the traveller must walk to the brow of the pi^ecipice. The 
finest viev," is from bdlow, and to enjoy it he must descend 
to the level of Cedar creek, which flows there. The 
banks are almost perpendicular for an extent of about 80 
yards, and almost 200 feet in height, where they are con- 
tiected by the bridge, which forms a fine arch from side to 
side, surprisingly regular for a work of nature. The dis- 
tance between the banks at the water's level is 45 feet, 
and 90 above. The bridge consists of a solid rock, filling' 
the upper part of this chasm, and of about the following 
dimensions *. length 90 feet, breath 60, and thickness 40, 

Wier^s Cave. This is one of the most beautiful ca- 
verns in the world, and is well worthy of a visit. It is also 
in Rockingham county. It is under the charge of a man 
whose care and attentions may be relied on by strangers. 
He will fiiraioh specimens of the beautiful spar with 



240 vvier's cave. 

which it abounds, find pack them for transportation. Evefy 
visiter here and at other mineral localities, should procure 
specimens, if not an entire suite of specimens, for himself, 
his friends, or some scientific institution or association. 

Wier's Cave extends about 800 yards, and is divided 
into several apartments of diiferent sizes. Torches must 
be carried the whole distance ; and those who wish to ex- 
amine it at leisure should take in some refreshments. The 
guides will illuminate some parts by planting lights in se- 
veral places. The walls are formed of the most beautiful 
crystallized carbonate of lime, or calcareous spar. The 
crystals are of various forms, size and colour, and reflect the 
iight with a most brilliant sparkling. In some pliices are 
thin sheets of the same incrustations, which have the ap- 
pearance of richly flowing drapery ; and from the lofty 
roof of one of the halls is one which appears as if floating 
in the air. It has received the name of Elijah's Mantle. 
Numerous stalactites hang from the roof like icicles ; others 
form beautiful colonnades, extending to the floor. Many 
stalagmites stand on the ground, several feet high. In the 
" Organ Room" are rows of these, which are not only 
small, hollow, and often transparent, but so slender as to 
vibrate when touched, and give musical sounds of various 
pitches, like the notes of an instrument. 

Other particulars, equally interesting, we have not room 
to give. 

Madison's Gate, in the same county, though only 300 
feet in extent, is somewhat similar to Wier's Cave; and 
another in Frederick county, near the North Mountain. 
The Blowing Cave is situated in the Alleghany Moun» 
tains, and another in the Cumberland ridge. 

In other p;irts of the United States are many caves, 
most of which however lie out of the principal routes of 
travellers. Of these, the great Kentucky Cavern is the 
principal, which is probably the largest in the world, 
being ten miles or more in extent, with halls covering' 
several acres. l.n the north, caves of considerable inter* 
est are found on the Swatara river, Pennsylvania, Water- 
town and Rhinebeck, New-York, besides several in Ver- 
mont, in Derby, Dorset and Clarendon. Most of these are 
in limestone regions, and have probably been formed by the 
washing qf subterranean currents of water. 



ROUTES FROM NEW-ORLEANS SORTH. 241 

Hickmond, the capital of Virginia, is on the eastern 
side of James River, about 150 miles from its mouth. 
Fine steamboats go up to the city, but ships stop a short 
distance below. The falls forbid navigation above, ex- 
cept to boats. There is a canal for boats round the falls, 
32 miles long. The principal streets are broad and straight. 
The Capitol is a fine building on an eminence on the 
model of a Grecian temple. Mines of inferior bituminous 
coal in the vicinity furnish much of the fuel. There are 
some pleasant rides in the neighbourhood. 

Norfolk, the principal seaport of Virginia, is situated 
at the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, on a part of that exten- 
sive level, sandy, pine bearing region, which forms the 
eastern coast of the United States, from New-Jersey south- 
ward. There is nothing interesting in the scenery ; and 
but little to attract a traveller. The United States Navy 
Yard is opposite. 

The Dismal Stoamp Canal extends into North Caro- 
lina to Albemarle sound, 23 miles. 

Old Point Comfort, on the Chesapeake, is the posi- 
tion of one of the strongest fortresses in the Union. The 
situation is low, sandy and solitary, and scarcely discerni- 
ble from the steamboat in passing. 

SOUTHERN ROUTES AND DISTANCES. 

, From New-Orleans to Charleston, by land and water. 
Mobile 114 miles, Steamboat to St. Joseph's 215, Steam- 
boat to St. Mark's 85, Railroad to Tallahassee 21, stage- 
coach to Brunswick, Georgia, 210, Steamboat to Charles' 
ton 160. 

Or, from Mobile by stagecoaches to Montgomery, Ala- 
bama, Columbus, Indian i>prings, Georgia, Greensboro', 
and by railroad to Charleston. 

Railroad from Charleston to Augusta 136 miles, 12 
hours The country, most of the way is nearly level, and 
sandy, with few objects of interest. To Woodstock 15 
miles, Summersville 7, Branchville 40, Midway 10, Blakes- 
ville 18, Aiken 30. Here is the summit, 510 feet above 
tide water, 360 above Augusta. 

Here are two other railroads from Augusta : one to 



242 TROM CHARtEStON TO NE-W-YORK. 

Athens, Georgia, 114 miles nottheast; One east to 
Greensborough 100. A railroad there to Knoxville, Ten- 
nessee 97, is to be made. 

From Charleston to Savannahj by Steamboats 11 miles, 
Fort Moultrie 4, Coffin Land 6, Stony Inlet 11, S. Edis- 
to Tnlet 27, St. Helena Sound 3, Tiuncard's Inlet 21, 
Hilton Head 4, Bloody Point 18, Savannah 17. 

By land 118 miles, Ashley River 6, Green's Tavern 8, 
Hick's, do. 10, Jacksoa Borough 10, Pompon Post-office 
3, Thompson's Tavern 11, SaUketcher Church 9, Pocota- 
ligo 7, Coosawhatchee 6, Beck's Ferry 23, Savannah 25. 

From Savannah a railroad is partly finished northeast 
to Macon, 210. 

From Charleston to New- York by ship, 670 miles. 

To Cape Fear 120 miles, Cape Look Out 75, Cape 
Hatteras 78, Capes of Virginia 140, Cape May 120, Bar- 
iiegat 70, Ntiw-York Bar 45, Sandy Hook 3, Narrows 
11, New-York 8 

From Charleston to New- York, by land and water. 
Steamboat to Wilmington, North Caiolina, daily, 14 hours. 
Railroad to Weldon, through Waynesboro' and Enfield, 
10 hours. Railroad to Portsmouth, 77 miles up the Ches- 
apeake Bay. Steamboat to James River 6, Old Point 
Comfort 20, New Point Comfort 10, Rappahannock river, 
65, St. Mary's Outlet 42, Port Tobacco 38, Mouth of 
Potomac 15, Mount Vernon 30, Alexandria 9, Washing- 
ton city 6. Railroad to Baltimore, through Bladens- 
burgh. 

Or, from Norfolk to Baltimore by Steamboat 197 
milei. Or from Norfolk to Richmond by Steamboat 117, 
})assing Jamestown 24, the first settlement in Virginia, 
(1609.) 

Or, from Weldon, North Carolina, to Washington, 
through Petersburgh, 204 miles. Railroad to Petersburgh, 
Virginia 60, Richmond 22, Frcdericksburgh 64, Belle- 
plaine 11. Steamboat to Washington, as before, 47. 



REFLECTIONS, &C. 243 

Reflections of the Traveller at the termination of 
his Journey. 

An intelligent and virtuous traveller cannot fail to have 
made many useful observations, and experienced many 
feelings of an interesting nature, which he will wish to 
lay up in his memory, and recur to in future. In such a 
person, travelling tends to foster pati'iotism of the best 
kind. We know the beauty of that inheritance, which 
we have received from our ancestors, when we have seen 
it ; and intei'course with our most estimable countrymen 
leads us to place a proper value on our national institu- 
tions and national union. 

On returning to the enjoyments of home and friends, 
with becoming feelings of gratitude to Him, whose hand 
has guided and protected us, how natural is the in- 
quiry, " how may I act for the improvement of society 
around me ?" If we have learned any lessons of disinter- 
estedness, let us endeavour to bring them into habitual 
practice. If we have acquired any knowledge which 
might be useful to agriculture, arts or sciences in our 
neighbourhood, let us impart it to those who know how 
to apply it. Popular lectures, libraries and literary and 
scientific associations will merit patronage. 

One of the most important subjects which now occupy 
the attention of our countrymen, is public education; and 
in several of the states, especially that of New-York, the 
traveller may have seen most valuable plans of improve- 
ment in operation. No man can be too much engrossed 
in business, or in too obscure a situation, to exert some 
useful influence in favour of the common schools of his 
state, county, town, or district. He may excite that in- 
,, terest in others which he feels himself, impart to them simi- 
lar views, assist m procuring better methods of instruc- 
tion or discipline, found a district library, or in some other 
way promote the diffusion of the sound knowledge, habits, 
taste, and sentiments, which the country so much needs, 
for her happiness and security. 



APPENDIX. 



Extract of a letter from the Baroness Reidesel, referred 
to on page 81. 

"But severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th of Octo- 
ber, our misfortunes began. I was at breakfast with my 
husband, and heard that something was intended. On the 
same day I expected Generals Burgoyne, Phillips and 
Frazer to dine with us. I saw a great movement among 
the troops; my husband told me, it was merely a recon- 
naissance, which gave me no concern, as it often happened. 
I walked out of the house and met several Indians in their 
war dresses, with guns in their hands. When I asked 
them where they were going, they cried out Wari War! 
(meaning they were going to battle.) This filled me with 
apprehension, and I scarcely got home before I heard re- 
ports of cannon and musketry, which grew louder by de- 
grees, till at last the noise became excessive. About 4 
o'clock in the afternoon, instead of the guests whom I ex- 
pected, General Frazer was brought on a litter mortally 
wounded. The table which was already set, was instantly 
removed, and a bed placed in its stead for the wounded 
General. I sat trembling in a comer; the noise grew 
louder and the alarm increased ; the thought that my hus- 
band might perhaps be brought in, wounded in the same 
way, was terrible to me, and distressed me exceedingly. 
General Frazer said to the surgeon, ' tell me if my wound 
is mortal, do not flatter me.'' The ball had passed through 
his body, and unhappily fm- the General, he had eaten a 
very hearty breakfast, by which the stomach was distended, 
and the ball, as the surgeon said, had passed through it. I 
heard him often exclaim with a sigh, * Oh fatal ambition! 
Poor General Burgoyne ! Oh my poor wife !' He was asked 
if he had any request to make, to which he replied, that 



£P FEND IX. 245 

*" If General Burgoyne would permit it, he should like to 
be buried at six o'clock in the evening on the top of a 
mountain, in a redoubt which had been built there.' I did 
not know which way to turn, all the other rooms were fall 
of sick. Towards evening I saw my husband coming, 
then I forgot all my sorrows and thanked God that he was 
spared to me. He ate in great haste with me and his aid- 
de-camp, behind the house. We had been told that we 
had the advantage of the enemy, but the sorrowful faces I 
beheld told a different tale, and before my husband tvent 
away, he took me one side, and said every thing was going 
very bad, that I must keep myself in readiness to leave 
the place, but not to mention it to any one. I made the 
pretence that I would move the next morning into my new 
house, and had every thing packed Up ready. 

" Lady H. Ackland had a tent not far from our house; 
in this she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the 
camp. All of a sudden a man came to tell her that her 
husband was mortally wounded and taken prisoner ; on 
hearing this she became very miserable ; we comforted her 
by telling her, that the wound was only slight, and at the 
same time advised her to go over to her husband, to do 
which she would certainly obtain permission, and then she 
could attend him herself; she was a charming woman and 
very fond of him. I spent much of the night in comforting 
her, and then went again to my children whom I had put 
to bed. I could not go to sleep, as I had General Fi'azer 
and all the other wounded gentlemen in my room, and I 
was sadly afraid my children would awake, and by their 
crying disturb the dying man in his last moments, who 
often addressed me and apologized '/or the trouble he 
gavemeJ' About three o'clock in the morning I was told 
he could not hold out much longer ; I had desired to be 
informed of the near approach of this sad crisis, and I 
then wrapped up my children in their clothes, and went 
with them into the room below. About 8 o'clock in the 
morning he died. After he was laid out and his corpse 
wrapped up in a sheet, we came again into the room, and 
had this sorrowful sight before us the whole day, and to 
add to this melancholy scene, almost every moment some 
officer of my acquaintance was brought in wounded. The 
cannonade commenced agnin ; a retreat was spoken of,. 



246 appendix; 

but not the stnallest motion was made towards it. Abotil 
4 o'clock in the afternoon I saw the house which had just 
been built for me in flames, and the enemy was now not far 
off. We knew that General Burgoyne would not refuse 
the last request of General Frazer, though by his acceding 
to it, an unnecessary delay was occasioned, by which the 
inconvenience of the armj' was much increased. At 6 
o'clock th'*, corpse was brought out, and we saw all the 
Generals attend it to the mountain; ihe chaplain, Mr, 
Brundell, performed the funeral service, rendered unusually 
solemn and awful, from its being accompanied by constant 
peals from the enemy's artillery. Many cannon balls flew 
close by me, but I had my eyes directed towards the 
mountain, where my husband was standing, amidst the 
fire of the enemy, and of course, I could not think of my 
own danger. General Gates afterwards said, that if he 
had known it had been a funeral he would not have per- 
mitted It to be fired on." 

Lady Harriet Ackland went to the American camp 
after the action, to take care of her husband before the 
surrender, and the Baroness Reidesel afterwards. They 
were both received with the greatest kindness and deli- 
cacy, epecially by General Schuyler. 



Population according to the Census of 1830 and 1840. 





1830 


1840 


Maine, 


399,955 


501,798 


New-Hampshire, 


269,328 


284,481 


Vermont, - 


280,652 


291,818 


Massachusetts, - 


610,408 


737,784 


Rhode Island, 


97,199 


108,837 


Connecticut, 


297,665 


310,131 


New-York, 


1,915,608 


2,432,835 


New-Jersey, 


320,823 


373,276 


Pennsylvania, 


1,348,233 


1,850,000 


Delaware, 


76,748 


78,120 


Maryland, 


447,040 


467,567 


Ohio, 


937,903 


1,515,703 



INDEX. 



Aibany* 2,3 


, 27 


Chippewa 


!«■■■ M 

0.-? 


Alexandria {D. C.) 


218 


Erie 


61 


Amherst 


157 


Groton 


167 


Andre's Grave 


15 


Lake George 


93 


Capture and Exec'n 


19 


Lexington 


185 


Andover 


186 


Montmorency 


135 


Anthony's Nose, Hud' 




Pequod 141, 


168 


son River 


17 


Plattsburgh 


109 


vn Erie Canal 


35 


Quebec 


132 


Lake George 


90 


Do. in 1775 


133 


Antiquities 143, 45, ^% 


, 73 


Queenston 


51 


Aqueduiit 




Saratoga 75 


, 78 


at Little Falls 


37 


Ticonderoga 


96 


Rochester 


46 


Turner's Falt^ 


159 


Arnold's Treachery 


19 


White Plains 


14 


Arsenals 




Bellows' Falls 


160 


Troy 


28 


Black Rock 


66 


Quebec 


126 


Bloody Brook 


158 


Spring^field 


153 


Pond 


90 


Ascutney Mountain 


162 


Bloomfield 


70 


Auburn 


72 


Blue Hills 


175 


Ballston Springs 


82 


Boston 


175 


Baltimore 


220 


Brattleborougli 


160 


Bangor 


213 


Bridgeport 


140 


Bat a via 


69 


Brock's Monument 


51 


Bath {Maine) 


211 


Brookfield 


184 


{N. H.) 


165 


Brooklyn (N. Y.) 


12 


(N. Y.) 


13 


Buffalo" 


66 


Battle of Bebmis's 




Bunker's Hill 


177 


Heights 75 


, 78 


Burgoyne's (Gen.) Ex- 


Bennington 


77 


pedition 


79 


Bloody Brook 


158 


Battle Ground 


77 


Bridgewater, or Lun 


- 


Quarters 


81 


dy's Lane 


57 


Burlington ( F/.) 107, 


164 


Bunker's Hill 


177 


Caldwell 


DO 



248 



INDEX. 



Canada, GeneralRe' 




Falls. 




marks on 


60 


Au Sable 


108 


Canals. 




Baker's 


140 


Blackstone Canal 


174 


Bellows 


160 


Erie 


31 


Carthage 


4& 


Farmington 


143 


Catsk'll 


21 


Ohio 


68 


Glenn's 


89- 


Welland 


57 


Cohoes •• 


31 


Canal Boat, Descrip- 




Little 


36 


tion of 


28 


Miller's 


140 


Canandaigua 


70 


Montmorency 


133 


Cape Diamond 


129 


Niagara 


50 


Cartiiag-e 


46 


Rochester 


46 


Catskiii 


21 


South Hadley 


154 


Mountains 


21 


Trenton. 


39 


Caughnawage 


34 


Turner's 


159 


Cemeteries (iV. Y.) 11 


, 12 


FishkiU 


20 


" Mt. Auburn 


179 


Flushing 


12 


Charlestown (Mass.) 


177 


Franconia 


165 


(N. H.) 


161 


Forts. 




Coal Mines 


227 


Adams 


172 


Cincinnati 


222 


Anne 


138 


Cleaveland 


68 


Clinton 


16 


Cohoes Falls 


31 


Crown Point 


105 


Colleges. 




Edward 


139 


Amherst 


157 


George 


93 


Brown 


174 


Griswold 


167 


Hamilton 


39 


Herkimer 


38 


Union 


32 


Lee 


14 


Washington 


150 


Miller 


140 


Yale 


142 


Montgomery 


16 


Connecticut River 


145 


Niagara 


63 


Dedham 


174 


Oswego 


64 


Deerfield 


158 


Erie 


61 


Dobb's Ferry 


15 


Putnam 


17 


Dorchester Heights 


178 


Saybrook 


145 


East Canada Creek 


35 


Stanwix 


40 


East Hartford 


152 


Ticonderoga 


99 


East River 


141 


Trumbull 


166 


Education in N. York 


86 


Washington 


14 


Essex (Conn.) 


147 


William Henry 


95 


Fairfield 


141 


Gates' (Gen.) Camp 


77 



INDEX. 



249 



Geneseo 69 

Geneva 7^ 

Glenn's Falls 89 

Gravesend 13 

Greenfield 159 

Greenwich 141 

Gulf Road 162-3 

Haddam 147 

Hadley 157 

Hampton 205 

Hanover 164 

Harlem 14 

Hartford (Conn.) 149 

Hatfield 157 

Haverhill (N. H.) 165 

Herkimer 38 

Highlands 16 

History of N. York 11, 32 

Vermont 163 

Mass. 177, 180 

Hudson 23 

Hydrostatic Locks 30 

Indians. 

Mohegans 169, 171 

Pequods 168 

Senecas 69 

Tuscaroras 49 

Jacques Cartier 125 

Johnson (Sir Wm.) 34 

Johnstown 34 

Junction 31 

Kennebunk 207 

Kingston 21 

Kosciusko's Retreat 18 

Lachine 119 

Lakes. 

Cayuga 72 

Champlain 99, 137 

Erie 60, 67 

George 88, 90, 97 

Ontario 63 

Saratoga 85 

Seneca 71 



Western 60 

Lancaster 166 

Laprairie 113 

Lebanon Springs 24 

Lewiston 49 

Lexington 185 

Little Falls 36 

Lockport 48 

Long Branch 13 

Lorette 135 

Lowell 187 

M'Crea's Murder 139 

Marblehead 205 

Middletown 148 
Military Academy — ■ 

West Point 18 
Minerals of New-York 85 
Conn. 143 
Mohawk river 3i 
Montpelier 163 
Montreal 114 
Mount Holyoke 155 
Hope 172 
Vernon 218 
Nahant 179 
Newburgh 20 
Newburyport 205 
New-Haven 142 
New-Lebanon Springs 24 
New-London 166 
Newport 172 
Niagara Falls from Ame- 
rican side 50 
Canada side 52 
Northampton 155 
Ogdensburgh 65 
Ohio 221 
Oneida 41 
Orange Springs 13 
Oswego 64 
Canal 42 
Ox Bow 165 



50 



INDEX. 



Palisadoes 


13 


Pawtucket 


174 


Pine Orchard 


21 


Pittsburgh 


222 


Plains of Abraham 


131 


Plattsburgh 


108 


Plymouth 


180 


Port Kent 


108 


Portland 


207 


Portsmouth 


206 


Poughkeepsie 


21 


Prisons, (State) 




Connecticut 


149 


New-York 76 


, 72 


Providence 


173 


Quebec 


126 


Queenstown 


51 


Rapids of Niagara 


54 


Richelieu 


124 


Rensselaerwyck 


28 


Ridge Road 


48 


Rockaway 


13 


Saco 


207 


Sackett's Harbour 


65 


St. John's 


110 


St. Lawrence 113, 


12L 


Salem 


204 


Salina 


43 


Salt Spring 


44 


Saratoga 


83 


Saugerties 


21 


Saybrook 


145 


Schenectady 32 


, 33 


Schoharie Creek 


34 


Schooley's Mountain 




Springs 


13 


Shaker Village 


26 


Sing Sing 


16 


Sorel Village 


122 


South Hadiey 


154 


Springs. , 




Baiiston 


82 



Btirning^ 55, 70 

New Lebanoo 24 

New- York 85 

Orange 13 

Saratoga 83 

Suffield 153 

Stillwater 74 

Stonington 168 

Stony Point 16 

Syracuse 42 

Table Rock 53 

Tappan 15 

Tarrytown 16 

Thames River 169 

Three Rivers 123 

Toronto 60 

Route to Saratoga 74 

Troy 29 

Utica 38 
Valley of St. Lawrence 60 

Verplanck's Point 16 

Virginia Springs 219 

Walpole (N. H.) 160 

Washington 215 

Waterford 74 

Wehawken 13 

Welland Canal 58 

Welles 206 
West Point 17, 18 
Wethersfield(Con.) 149 

Whirlpool 52 

Whitehall 137 

While River 162 

WilUam Henry 122 

Windsor (Con.) 153 

(Ver.) 162 

Wlscasset 211 

Wolfe's Cove 132 

Worcester 152 

York (xMaine) 207 



For ike Courier ^ Enquirer- 
The White Mountains.— liQi nae advise our New 
York travellers to include in their summer trip, a visit 
to the " Vi/hite Mountains." 

I have made a hasty journey there, and am anxious 
olhevs may enjoy the pleasures of the jaunt. 

"There is no great preparation necessary —it requires 
but little time to accomplish it. Either route is plea- 
sant — all different. To those who would shun the 
hum, dust and cinders of a railroad car, 1 would re- 
commend the Connecticut river road— starling from 
Springfield at half-past eight in the morning, and 
passing through beautiful river villages, over valley 
,and mountain, through verdant fields and forests as 
yet untouched by the white man's axe. Those who 
ike more of speed, and believe io riding on rails, I 
Would send to Boston, and start them to Concord, N. 
H. ; thence, via " Winnipisioga" lake, the ^'Franco- 
nia J\otck," and the " Old Man in the Mountain''^— 
not forgetting to call on Ezekial Bowles to guide them 
to the " Floom" and Ravine, which are well wonh'! 
the hour and a half it will require. 

The coaches and horses are good this way ; m fact 
cither way you are carried along in the right spirit— 
the spirit §f the mountains— clever and congenial. 
The drivers are often the proprietors, and all are care- 
ful, kind and intelligent. From Littleton you are 
taken charge of by Col. Pi,u£sell, who for 15 or 20 
years has been a mountain stage man— having carried 
tnail and female without an accident for this length cl 
time. The Colonel is, in my judgment, the right sort. 
The short season, with increasing travel, has rather 
got ahead of him in numbers of horses and stages; he 
^s tUcrefore obliged to put too many on a seat, and 
too many on a coach. With all this, however, he 
drives "up to time," and except ihe idea that you are 
overloaded, you get along about as comfo) tably ^s 
you wish. 



The Colonel lands you at "Fabyan's" or Craw- 
ford's, both very good houses. (The hotel keepers 
and drivers on the road are very careful to say no- 
ihinjj: to influence parties to either) I stayed at 
*' Fabyan's," which suited »ne. Mr. F. himself is a 
stirring, pleasant man. His desire is to do all he can 
to make the sojourner happy, and all around him 
geem to teel the same anxiety to make one want to 
go a^ain. If it is trout you like, you will find them 
With your breakfast, dinner or tea. Any thing that 
can be had in such a spot is found at Fabyan's, g:nod 
Bread and butter, tea and cak^ , custard a&d pudding, 
besides hot milk ^ith ^ood cofi[ee,or good mattresses 
with dean iheets, a willing, smart and active cham- 
bermaid : two good and pretty girls to serve the table, 
besides those of the other sex, all of the same good- 
natured, well bred sort. Then comes his train of 
mountain horses, firm on their feet, they ascend and 
descend. We wondered going up andcomtrig down to 
see them tread, "fhey seemed to know and feel the 
entire weight of their responsibility, which I confess 
with me was just 212 pounds. Sixteen horses, one 
after the other, in one narrow path, 8 ladies and S 
gentlemen, with as noble a guide as ever took the 
lead — sober, prudent, mild and attentive. Do as 
Fabyan the guide says and you will be safe enough, 
otherwise you are yourselves responsible The dis- 
t^tnce from both Fabyan's and Crawford's to the lop 
of the mountains is nine and a quai-ter miles, by ac- 
tual survey, certified to by two surveyors under oath 
and placed in the hotels on the way and at the moun 
tain. 1 cannot account for a Ei?n which 1 saw in 
front of Crawford's, which certainly is not right, 
making it only seven miles;— this may be accounted 
for bv the " strife between the hotels." After a visit 
to the mountain and passing a day or week, or two, 
in sporting, with trout, squirrels, wild pigeon, bear, 
woodchuck, deer and porcupine, fox, sable, rabbits, 
mink, wolves, moose, &c. &c., tell Col. Russell to 
harness up and take you down to the notch, and 
through to the " Wilie House," and then return, set- 
tle up with Fabyan, and take one look more at the 
glorious, uninhabited range of the highest hills we 
Allegganians have to|look upon, and feasting upon a 
lew more notes from the bugle echoing along the 
hills, place yourself in charge of the Col. and he will 
pass you homeward, the way you did not come, and 
my word for it, you will be delighted with the scenery 
and recommend your friends to go at once to the 
mountains ho I D. 



ne 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




